
Class ^ " 

Book_ 

Copyright N" 

CORfRIGHT DEPOSlIi 



PLANT CULTURE 



PLANT CULTURE 



A WORKING HANDBOOK OF 
EVERY DAY PRACTICE FOR ALL 
WHO GROW FLOWERING AND 
ORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN THE 
GARDEN AND GREENHOUSE 



BY 



GEORGE W. OLIVER 

Propagator to the Bureau of Plant Industry, 
U. S. Department of Agriculture 



AND 



ALFRED CARL HOTTES 

Assistant Professor of Horticulture, Ohio State University 



FOURTH EDITION 



NEW YORK 
A. T. DE LA MARE CO. Inc. 
1921 



.©5 



COPYRIGHT 

Entered According to Act of Congress in the 

Year 1900 by 

A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Company, Ltd. 

New York 

SECOND EDITION, REVISED 

Copyrighted 1909 by 

A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Company, Ltd. 

New York 

THIRD EDITION, REVISED 

' Copyrighted 1912 by 

A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Company, Ltd. 

New York 

FOURTH EDITION, RE-WRITTEN AND RESET 

Copyrighted Nov. 1920 by" 

A, T. De La Mare Co., Inc. 

New York 



All Rights Reserved 

JAN 2b m\ 
0)CU605565 



PLANT CULTURE 



eo 



Preface to Third Edition 

In nearly all of the recent works of this nature, appearing in 
America, the subjects dealt with have been confined, more or less, 
to those plants that can be and are cultivated by commercial florists 
for profit, or by those who own conservatories. And while the 
present book includes all this class of information it has a far wider 
scope, treating, as it does, on the care and management of a diversity 
of plants not touched upon by other writers, all equally necessary 
in the adornment of our gardens and homes and, for this purpose, 
as beautiful and interesting as those that generally receive the 
greatest attention from authors of most horticultural works. 
Divested of superfluous verbiage, and shorn of perplexing technical- 
ities which tend to confuse, the cultural directions here given can 
be easily and successfully followed, the results contributing to the 
perfect enjoyment of 'Hhe purest of human pleasures," by some, 
and affording to others a lucrative occupation. 

What I have given here are teachings gleaned and sifted from 
the experience of many years' work as a gardener. The methods 
described are such as have been successfully practiced by me and 
can be safely relied upon as uptodate and thoroughly applicable to 
American conditions and requirements. 

While the notes have been made short, they will, nevertheless, 
in most cases, cover the essential points in the methods of raising 
and caring for the plants named, and be understood by the average 
reader as easily as if they had been dealt with in longer articles. 
Hitherto, the information available on the subjects treated upon 
has, for the most part, been widely scattered in numerous maga- 
zines and books, many of which are expensive; and it is often found 
necessary to search through a mass of technical details in order to 
find the required information. It is to be hoped that the present 
volume will, in great measure, reduce the difficulties referred to, 
and render the art of plant cultivation profitable and enjoyable to 
the many whose tastes are horticultural. 

GEORGE W. OLIVER 

Washington, October, 191 2 



PLANT CULTURE 



Preface to Fourth Edition 

The undertaking of this fourth edition was assumed with ex- 
treme reluctance by the writer because of the eminence of Geo. W. 
OHver in the field of plant culture and propagation. 

In this practically rewritten and enlarged volume much addi- 
tional cultural matter and many new subjects have been incorpor- 
ated, every endeavor having been made with a view of presenting 
an epitome especially of those plants which figure in present day 
cultivation. 

Some progress has been made in the twenty years since the first 
edition was printed; many flowers have gained or waned in popu- 
larity. Every effort has been made to preserve the practical style 
of Mr. OHver which has served in the past as authority for thousands 
of gardeners. 

The writer is indebted to Messrs. Carl E. Haas and Sylvester 
Pautler, students, who have assisted with several chapters. Bailey's 
Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture has been used as authority 
for nomenclature. 

ALFRED CARL HOTTES 

OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY, 

Columbus, O. 
November, 1920. 



Contents 

(For complete index see pages 441, 442). 

Preface 7 

Chap. I — General Cultural Notes 13- 21 

Potting Soils 13 

Potting Plants 13 

Watering 20 

Mulching 21 

Chap. 2 — Propagation 23- ;^^ 

Cuttings 23 

Division 24 

Seeds 24 

Graftage 26 

Cleft Grafting 28 

Tongue, or Whip Grafting 29 

Saddle 29 

Crown 29 

Veneer 29 

Inarching 29 

Root Grafting 29 

Budding 30 

Layering 30 

Chap. 3 — Scientific Names 34- 37 

Chap. 4 — Hybridization of Plants 39 

Saving Seed from Desirable Plants 42 

Chap. 5 — Plant Enemies 43 

Diseases — Fungicides 44 

Insects — Insecticides 46- 50 

Commoner Diseases and Insects Affecting Ornamental 

Plants 50 

Chap. 6 — Greenhouse and Conservatory Plants 52-163 

Chap. 7 — Hardy Perennials 165-221 

Chap. 8 — Annuals 222-241 

Chap. 9 — Bulbous Plants 242-277 

Chap. 10 — Bedding, Vase and Window-Box Plants 278-292 

Chap. II — Hardy Shrubs 293-340 

Chap. 12 — Roses 341-359 

Chap. 13 — Vines — Hardy and Tender 360-382 

Chap. 14 — Ferns and Lycopods 383-401 

Chap. 15 — Water Plants — Waterside Plants 402-414 

Chap. 16 — Ornamental Grasses 415-422 



10 



PLANT CULTURE 



Illustrations 



Page 

Abutilon Savitzii 53 

Acalypha musaica, Avenue 

of 54 

Acer polymorphum atropur- 

pureum 294 

Achillea ptarmica 164 

Aconitum 167 

Adiantum California 389 

Adiantum Croweanum 388 

iEsculus parviflora 295 

Ampelopsis Veitchii 362 

Anemone japonica 171 

Anthericum 57 

Anthurium Andrsenum 58 

Aquilegias 35 

Arabis albida in a Rockery.. 174 

Ardisia crenulata 62 

Aristolochia Sturtevantii. . . .364 
Asclepia Curassavica 281 

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. 72 
Begonia Mrs. J. A. Peterson. 74 
Begonia Rex, Rooted Cut- 
ting of 71 

Bocconia cordata 179 

Caladium "Her Majesty". . .248 

Calathea zebrina 78 

Calla Godfrey 276 

Calycanthus floridus 300 

Campanula medium 181 

Campanula persicifolia alba.. 19 

Campsis radicans 366 

Carnations, House of 82 

Carnation, Mrs. C. W. Ward. 85 

Cattleya labiata 90 

Cattleya, Plant of. Showing 

Air Roots 140 

Cercis japonica 302 

Chorizema cordata splendens 92 

Chrysanthemums 95 

Cinerarias, Varieties of 99 

Clematis paniculata 369 

Clerodendron Flowers in Dif- 
ferent Stages 370 



Page 

Cocos Weddelliana 142 

Cornus florida 304 

Crossing Technique 41 

Cross-Pollination, Successful 

Result of 358 

Croton punctata 102 

Cryptomeria japonica 306 

Cutting placed at side of pot. 14 

Cyclamen 107 

Cyperus alternifolius 416 

Cypripedium acaule 66 

Cyrtomium Rochfordianum.393 

Daisy-like Flower 40 

Deutzia gracilis 44 

Digitalis 187 

Dracaenas, Good Commer- 
cial 112 

Dracaena Sanderiana 114 

Erianthus Ravennse 418 

Erica melanthera 116 

Geranium Cutting 23 

Gladiolus 261 

Grafting: 

Cleft 28 

Veneer 30 

Whip or Tongue 29 

Hedera helix 372 

Helleborus niger 22 

Heuchera sanguinea 192 

Hippeastrum 245 

Hydrangea hortensis 131 

Hydrangea paniculata 

grandifiora 314 

Insects, Sucking and Biting. 46 

Iris Madam Chereau 194 

Pallida dalmatica 195 

Rhizome of 197 

Laevigata 198 

Kalmia latifolia 319 

Lantana 286 

Layers of Various Sorts 32 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



II 



Page 

Lilium candidum 267 

Lychnis viscaria var. flore 
pleno 202 

Magnolia Soulangeana 324 

Marguerite, Boston Yellow. 136 

Mignonette 235 

Musa ensete 285 

Nelumbiums 406 

Nephrolepis Teddy Jr 395 

Nymphsea, Viviparous Leaf 

of 408 

Nymphseas 410 

Oxalis Bowiei 272 

Pseonia Moutan 16 

Pandanus Veitchii 144 

Pansies in border 226 

Papyrus antiquorum 420 

Pea Blossom 38 

Peony festiva maxima 206 

Peperomia, Leaf Cuttings of. 146 

Petunias, Single 230 

Philadelphus coronarius 328 

Phlox subulata 209 

Poinsettia 119 

Polypodium glaucum 398 

Primula malacoides 123 

Primula obconica 128 

Privet Hedge and Clematis 

Arbor 322 

Properly Potted Plant 14 

Pueraria Thunbergiana 378 



Page 

Rhus Cotinus 332 

Ricinus communis 237 

Rose Columbia 345 

Rose Dr. W. Van Fleet. 354 
Rose Frau Karl Druschki . . . 342 

Rose Hoosier Beauty 348 

Rose Los Angeles 346 

Rose Luclle 352 

Rudbeckia Newmanii 213 

Sansevieria, Leaf Cuttings of. 152 

Sarracenia 154 

Schizanthus 240 

Selaginella Emmeliana 400 

Solanum Capsicastrum 49 

Spore Bearing Parts in Va- 
rious Genera of Ferns. . . .384 

Styrax japonica 335 

Squash Blossom 41 

Sweet Peas 158 

Tomato Blossom 38 

Typical Flower, Section of.... 38 

Veronica spicata rosea 220 

Viburnum plicatum 337 

Victoria Regia 413 

Vinca rosea with Clematis 
in background 291 

Window Box Gardening 279 

Wistaria multijuga chinensis 
frutescens 381 

Xanthoceras sorbifolia 339 



Supplementary Book List 

Where more extended information is sought on any giv^en subject, the 
reader is referred to the following excellent list of books, all obtainable from 
the publishers of Plant Culture, except those marked "out of print," which 
may, however, be found in any good library: 

Annuals, The Book of Henry H. Saylor 

Asters, How to Grow George Arnold 

Bulb Book, The John Weathers 

Bulbs and Tuberous Rooted Plants C.L. Allen 

Carnation Culture, Commercial J. Harrison Dick 

Carnation, The American C. W. Ward — Out of Print 

Chrysanthemum Manual Elmer D. Smith 

Ferns, Book of Choice G. Schneider 

Color Standards and Color Nomenclature Robert Ridgeway 

Floral Designing, Manual of W. Cleaver Harry 

Floriculture, Practical Peter Henderson 

Floriculture, The Principles of Ed^vard A. White 

Flower Garden, English Wm. Robinson 

Flower Garden, The American Neltje Blanchan 

Fungous Diseases of Plants Benjamin M. Duggar 

Garden Craft in Europe H. Inigo Triggs 

Garden Flowers, Our Harriet L. Keeler 

Garden Guide or Amateur Gardeners' Handbook A.T. DeLaMare 

Garden, The Amateur Geo. W. Cable 

Gardening, Encyclopedia of John C. Loudon 

Gardening, Illustrated Dictionary of. .Geo. Nicholson — Out of Print — New 

Edition in Preparation 

Gardening, Manual of L. H. Bailey 

Gardening, What England Can Teach Us About Wilhelm Miller 

Gardening, Window Herman B. Dorner 

Genetics in Relation to Agriculture. . . .Ernest B.Babcock and RoyE. Clausen 

Greenhouse Construction L. R. Taft 

Greenhouse Management L. R. Taft 

Greenhouses: Their Construction and Equipment Wtn. J. Wright 

Horticulture, Standard Cyclopedia of L. H. Bailey 

House Plants, Milady's F. E. Palmer 

Iris Manual C. S. Harrison 

Landscape Gardening F. A. Waugh 

Landscape Gardening, Practical Robt. B. Cridland 

Nursery Book, The L. H. Bailey 

Peony Manual C. S. Harrison 

Phlox Manual C. S. Harrison 

Plant Breeding L. H. Bailey and A. W. Gilbert 

Plant Culture, Principles of Emmett S. Goff 

Plant Propagation, Commercial Alfred C. Hottes 

Plant Propagation, Greenhouse and Nursery Practice. . . .Maurice G. Kains 

Propagation of Plants. The Andrew S. Fuller 

Rose, The H. B. Ellwanger 

Rose Culture, Commercial Eber Holmes 

Rose Growing, Outdoor, The Practical Book of Geo. C. Thomas 

Roses, How to Grow Robert Pyle 

Shrubs, Our Northern, and How to Identify Them. . . . Harriet L. Keeler 

Sweet Peas for Profit J- Harrison Dick 

Violet Culture, Commercial B. T. Galloway 

Violets, How to Make Money Growing George Saltford 

Water Gardening, The Book of Peter Bisset 

Water Lilies and How to Grow Them H. S. Conrad and Henry Hus 



CHAPTER I 

General Cultural Notes 



POTTING SOILS. Loam is the principal soil used for most 
plants. It is a medium mixture of sand and clay. If containing 
much clay it is made lighter and more porous by adding peat, leaf- 
mold, and sand. 

It is a surprise to many persons to realize that the soil furnishes 
only about two per cent of the materials in the plant; the other 
98 per cent is derived from air and water. The physical condition 
of the soil is more to be studied than its chemical constitution. 
For certain plants, such as Rhododendrons and Ericas, lime is 
injurious, so that the peaty soils are used. Cacti, Agave and like 
plants prefer sandy soils. Orchids, and many of the aroids prefer 
a soil consisting principally of fern roots. Charcoal is used advan- 
tageously to keep the soil sweet. It is used to advantage in potting 
plants which are to remain in their pots for some time. The best 
loam is obtained by allowing grass roots to decay by being piled 
for a year or two. Such soil will be full of fiber. 

For potting, no fresh manure should be used, but should always 
be allowed to decay so that there is no heat left in it. Cow manure 
makes the best sort for use. Sheep manure, dried and pulverized, 
is used frequently for top-dressing plants in pots. Finely ground 
bonemeal also makes an excellent fertilizer for pots. 

Soil should be used which is just moist and fibrous enough so 
that it almost hangs together when grasped in the hand, but falls 
apart easily. All plants are grown in small pots in order to take up 
as little room as possible; furthermore, if too much soil is available 
it frequently becomes sour. 

POTTING PLANTS. No rules for potting plants can be laid 
down which would apply equally to all kinds of plants grown in pots. 
Different kinds of plants require different treatment in this respect. 
Some require that the soil be rammed quite firmly about the old 
ball; these, as a rule, are hard-wooded plants, with fine roots, such 
as Heaths and Azaleas. Palms thrive best in a moderately well- 

13 



14 



PLANT CULTURE 



firmed soil. Soft-growing plants are less fastidious in this respect. 
Again, there are definite seasons when certain plants should be 
potted. The hard-wooded kinds are usually potted in Spring before 
active growth commences. Ferns are given their annual shift be- 
fore starting into growth; many of them, however, will stand shift- 
ing several times during the year. But for all plants it may be 
stated that the beginning of their resting season should find the 
ball of earth well supplied with roots, for if given a shift when 
growth is completed water will lodge in the fresh soil, and this will 
turn sour and almost certainly cause the plant to become sickly. 
Plants with fine, hair-like roots should only be given small shifts; 
rapid growing plants and those with large roots will take larger 
shifts. In every case the ball should be moderately moist when 
potting. Plants in the younger stages of their existence, whether 
seedlings or cuttings, require the soil to be of a finer nature than 

when older, when it may be 
rough and fibrous, and, in 
the case of those which 
need it, manure of some 
kind added. In putting or- 
dinary plants in pots above 





Fig. 1 

Properly potted plant. Note the half-inch 

space at top for water and the crockery 

at the bottom 



Fig. 2 

Cutting placed at side of 
pot when it is not well pro- 
vided with roots; the plants 
will often be better than 
setting in center of pot 



GENERAL CULTURAL NOTES 15 

the size of 4- or 5-inch, the firming of the soil should be done with the 
aid of a piece of wood about 1 3^ inches wide and M-inch thick, 
or larger, for very large plants. Enough space should always be 
left at the top of the pot, so that when the ball of earth is in 
need of water one application will be sufficient to wet it through. 

In potting cuttings it is the usual custom to put in soil to one- 
third the depth of the pot; the cutting is put in place, the remain- 
ing space filled up with soil, then the bottom of the pot is knocked 
several times on the bench, after which the plant is slightly firmed 
with the thumbs. It is preferable to have the knocking precede the 
firming with the thumbs, for this reason: When the cutting is 
placed in position, the soil added and thumb-firmed, the soil does 
not get well distributed among the rootlets nearly so well as when 
the pot is given one or two gentle knocks before the thumbs are 
used. For most plants in the cutting stage the thumbs should be 
used for evening the surface more than for firming. Another reason, 
just as weighty as the last, is that pressure from the thumb acts 
unevenly on the roots, pressing down opposite sections, while the 
intervening spaces containing the tender roots are stationary. 
This must necessarily result in twisting and wrenching, which 
dangers are done away with, or at least lessened, by first firming 
with the knocking process. (See Fig. i.) 

Again, all the cuttings of a batch will not have the same quantity 
of roots, and therefore they should get different methods of treat- 
ment in potting. Those which have a satisfactory number of roots 
may be put in the middle of the pot, according to the usual custom; 
but those which have few roots, and which look as if they would 
benefit by being left in the cutting bed for a longer period, will, as 
a rule, come along all right if placed at the edge of the pot instead 
of at the middle. The roots in this position make progress rapidly, 
and the plantlets can easily be given a place in the middle of a pot 
during their next shift. Cuttings with very fine roots should always 
be treated in this way. (See Fig. 2.) 

Many cuttings, when ready for potting, will be found to have 
the roots pointing downward from the base of the cutting instead 
of radiating from it; these are often delicate and easily bruised, 
but they can be preserved by taking some soil in one hand, letting 
the fingers accompany it into the pot, and before withdrawing them 
press the soil against one side of the pot; place the roots against 
this and fill up with soil. In course of time practice will enable 
the operator to pot cuttings as rapidly by this as by the ordinary 
method. In potting cuttings during the Winter months very great 



i6 



PLANT CULTURE 




GENERAL CULTURAL NOTES 17 

care should be exercised in preventing a check through putting them 
in soil which is of a lower temperature than the sand from which 
they have been taken. It should not vary more than two degrees 
at the time of potting. This precaution is especially important in 
the potting of the warmth loving conservatory plants. 

Glean Pots. It is the common custom, and a bad one, to put 
plants in dirty pots with merely the rough of the soil remain- 
ing in them being removed with a stick or cloth before using. This 
operation takes more time than washing. A large number of pots 
submerged in a big tub of water and allowed to stand for a few 
days will have the material adhering to them softened so that with 
a piece of woolen cloth and a boy that knows how, a large number 
can be cleaned in a short time so that they will be as good as new. 
There is no doubt that dirty pots work to the injury of the plants 
in them. The inside soil adhering to the pot after use prevents a 
plant being easily knocked out and the green on the outside tends 
to make the pot less porous; besides, a plant looks better by far 
in a clean pot than in a dirty one. New pots or thoroughly dried, 
clean ones should not be used until they have been dipped in water 
immediately before using, as they are apt to absorb too much of 
the water meant for the plant after potting. Have divisions in the 
potting shed for each size; it saves both time and pots, and when 
potting is to be done everything goes along more smoothly when the 
various materials are ready at hand. There is usually more time 
wasted in gathering the necessary sizes from here, there and every- 
where, wiping out a few at a time and punching a stick through 
the aperture at the bottom than would be spent over the work if 
it were properly done. System counts in this as in everything else. 

Drainage. Crocking or arranging pieces of broken pots or 
other material over the hole in the bottom of the flower pot for drain- 
age is an operation to which too little attention is apt to be given. 
For quick-growing soft-wooded plants in small pots, or for those 
which are intended to remain in the pot only for a short time, there 
is no necessity for an elaborate system of drainage. Especially is 
this the case where the ball of earth becomes so dry as to require 
watering at least once a day. With plants of this nature, in pots 
above the size of 3-inch, a little rough material thrown in the bot- 
tom will give compensatory results; but as usually done this work 
takes more time than if the pots were supplied in the regular way 
with potsherds. The rough pieces of the potting soil are gathered 
up by hand and put in the pots as potting proceeds. 



i8 PLANT CULTURE 

A better way will be secured as follows: Soil which is to be used 
for cuttings, and which is screened, will give excellent material in 
the rough pieces which do not pass through the meshes; this should 
be saved, mixed with thoroughly rotted cow manure, and put in a 
box conveniently situated for future use. This gives splendid mate- 
rial for drainage, especially for bedding plants, such as Geraniums 
in 4-inch pots, Cannas in 5-inch pots, and for young Chrysanthe- 
mums. It will be found that that part of the pot holding this mix- 
ture will have a great attraction for the roots. Where the pots are 
to serve for growing plants in for any length of time, potsherds 
should be used. With Palms, Ferns and such plants as Pandanus, 
Dracaena and Maranta a carefully crocked pot is of great importance 
in healthy root action. For Caladiums, Alocasias, Anthuriums and 
other plants which require an abundant supply of water, careful 
drainage is an absolute necessity. With fine-rooted plants, such as 
Heaths and Azaleas, drainage is equally important. It will be 
found good policy to have a supply of the different sizes of crocks 
on hand all the time. The crocks should consist of three sizes, the 
largest size in pieces from two to three inches across; the next large 
enough to go through a No. i sieve, and the small size from one- 
quarter to one-half-inch in diameter. The quickest way to procure 
the different sizes is to break up the potsherds with a good-sized 
hammer, so that the largest pieces are from two to three inches 
across; put into a No. 4 to 6 sieve to screen out the dust and smaller 
particles, which may be thrown away. Next screen through a half- 
inch sieve and these will serve as the smallest-sized crocks. The 
pieces which the half-inch sieve retain put into an inch sieve. This 
will give the second size, and what is left will answer for pieces to 
put over the holes in the bottoms of the pots. All three sizes should 
be kept in separate boxes, or divisions on the potting bench, handy 
for use. 

In crocking, spread out a number of pots on the bench, take a 
piece of broken pot about twice the diameter of the hole in the bot- 
tom of the pot, place the concave side of the crock directly over the 
hole. If the pot is a small one, a few of the smaller-sized crocks over 
the larger pieces will be sufficient; but if a 6-inch pot, or larger, 
is it best to arrange a few large pieces around the first piece, finishing 
off with smaller ones. 

On top of the crocks, to prevent the soil from getting among 
them, either during the operation of potting or from being washed 
down afterward, sphagnum moss is often used, although this is 
not the best material for the purpose^ as it is apt to retain moisture 



GENERAL CULTURAL NOTES 



19 




Campanula persicifolia alba. — See page 180 

This plant is commonly known as Peach Bells, being a biennial, the seed is sown one year 
but the plants do not bloom until the next, but after this the plants cannot be depended 

upon to bloom again. 



20 PLANT CULTURE 

to a greater extent than the soil above it. Half decomposed leaves 
are preferable. 

WATERING. This is the most important work that falls to 
the lot of the plant grower. It cannot be learned by reading a paper 
or a book on the subject, and the man who wields the watering can, 
or hose, no matter how intelligent he may be, will water plants for 
years after a fashion, and yet have a great deal to learn. About 
all that can be said on the subject is to water a plant w^hen it needs 
it. The trouble lies in knowing when it needs it. The operator 
should first know the plant, all about it, where it comes from, 
whether it inhabits a bog or a mountain top, whether it is rapid or 
slow growing, its natural periods of growth and rest, and the same 
under cultivation. Next he must know the condition of the roots, 
the kind of soil it is potted in and when potted. Among other 
things he should know will be the chemical composition of the water, 
and whether it is suitable for the plants he is watering. The tem- 
peratures of the soil and water during the operation is another im- 
portant item. Next he should frequently go over different plants 
in different soils, knock one out of its pot here and there an hour or 
so after watering, to ascertain whether the ball has been wet an inch 
or two below the surface with the remainder dust dry, or if the 
happy medium has been struck. In short, it may be said that the 
successful cultivator understands how and when to water only after 
years of experience. Watering with the hose is often the cause of a 
good deal of harm, both to plants on benches, in the open ground, 
and in pots, owing to the manner in which water is applied. It is a 
favorite method with some to force the water out of a small nozzle 
to a distance of 20 feet, or a less distance, with the finger partly 
over the end of the hose. A better method than this could not be 
designed for the packing of the soil, washing it into cakes by break- 
ing it up into fine particles and filling up the interstices with thick 
muddy water; and when the sun shines, if the ground be not gone 
over with the cultivator or loosened up in some other way, the 
surface soil gets as hard as a brick, and the roots near the surface 
are subjected to a temperature far above what is good for them. 
To do away with the necessity for this method of watering the hose 
should be short in length, and stop cocks more frequently placed. 
For outside work lengths of temporary iron piping screwed into 
position wherever necessary should be provided so as to use the 
hose low down among the plants, never allowing the water to be 
squirted on the soil. A good plan is to use distributors, one of 



GENERAL CULTURAL NOTES 21 

which can be made in a few minutes if the necessary material is at 
hand. Take a piece of zinc, about a foot long and 5 inches wide, 
bend the sides for half its length so as to clasp the end of the hose 
to hold it in position, and tie with wire. The other end should over- 
lap the end of the hose by about 6 inches, and be turned up slightly 
so as to meet the water, distributing it in such a manner as will 
enable the soil to absorb it without being disturbed in the least. 
This will also prevent the foliage and flowers from being spattered 
with muddy water. 

MULCHING. This consists of covering the surface of the soil 
with any loose material, such as well-rotted manure, cocoanut fiber, 
stable litter, or half-decayed leaves. It acts in retaining the mois- 
ture in the ground for the benefit of vegetation instead of being 
lost by rapid evaporation. The soil, especially after heavy rain- 
storms, gets a firm crust on the surface which ultimately cracks 
open, readily parting with the moisture to a good distance beneath 
the surface; thus the mulch acts as a layer between the drying in- 
fluence of the atmosphere and the surface of the soil, preventing it 
from getting hard and keeping it open. 

A good mulch, besides preventing evaporation is, to a certain 
extent, similar in its action to a loose, silty surface soil, drawing up 
the moisture from several feet below the surface. Mulching is also 
beneficial, because if manure is used in which there is any feeding 
substance it is washed down to the roots of the plants by heavy rains. 
Cultivating acts in a similar manner to mulching, as the soil which 
is loosened may be said to be a mulch of loose soil; but to be of the 
greatest service this operation should be performed after every 
shower of rain. 

Plants in pots need the surface stirred occasionally, partly for 
the same reason that plants in the open ground are benefited by 
frequent cultivating. The top layer of soil in the pots gets into a 
caked condition; this is indicated at times by the water standing on 
the surface longer than usual, and is caused by the particles of soil 
being reduced by the action of the water to a muddy state, forming 
a kind of puddle through which water takes a long while to perco- 
late. Besides this many sorts of the lower forms of plant life readily 
start causing a green moldlike growth to form upon the soil; this 
gives the pots an unsightly appearance. When potting, a little 
rough sand scattered on the surface is an excellent preventive, keep- 
ing the whole mass porous and doing away with the necessity of 
frequent stirring. 



22 



PLANT CULTURE 




HelLEBORUS NIGER (CHRISTMAS RoSE) 

This perennial blooms in the Winter at every opportunity it gets to receive a little 

sunshine. 



CHAPTER II 



Propagation 



All plants may be propagated by one or more of the following 
methods: Seeds, spores, bulbels, budding, grafting, layering, cut- 
tings of the stems, twigs, leaves and roots, suckers, divisions of the 
crowns or by stolons or runners. 

Cuttings. Cuttings are usually made from dormant wood in 
the cases of shrubs and trees whether they be evergreen or decidu- 
ous; and in the case of soft-wooded plants the growths most recently 
made are those selected. Cuttings of leaves sometimes root freely 
and produce young plants or tubers, as in Begonia Rex and Gloxinia. 
There are many devices in which to root cuttings, such as double 
bell glasses placed over double pots, one of the pots being supplied 
with water, the other with sand; hand lights, and so forth; but they 
are of little service and are 
seldom used. Deciduous shrubs 
are usually propagated out of 
doors. Hardy perennials, such 
as Iheris, Dianthus and Phlox, 
are propagated in coldframes. 
Many of the evergreen shrubs 
do well in a propagating house 
from which frost is kept out, 
while the tender plants, both 
hard- and soft-wooded, are 
rooted in an open bed of a 
warm house the atmospheric 
temperature of which does not 
fall lower than 55 degrees 
during the coldest weather. 
For plants which need more 
heat a propagating frame is 
easily erected in the warmest Fig. 3 — Geranium Cutting 

part of the house ; this, with Note that the lower leaves have been re- 
^ . , ' , . moved. The cut at the base is through an 

a mmimum bottom heat 01 eye or node. 

23 




24 ILANT CULTURE 

75 degrees, serves for Nepenthes and other plants slow to root 
under ordinary conditions. 

Division. Propagation by suckers, division, stolons and run- 
ners is an easy matter, and each species so treated readily suggests 
the means to be employed. Many plants difficult to propagate by 
the usual methods of cuttings of the branches yield readily to cut- 
tings made from the roots. The Moss Rose is a familiar example. 
Clerodendron, Fatsia, Paulownia imperialis, Raspberry, Blackberry 
and Xanthoceras all come freely from roots. Among the herbaceous 
plants the roots of Anemone japonica and Lychnis vespertina, when 
cut up quite small, will give plants from every piece. Indoor plants, 
such as Manettia cordijolia and Cephcelis Ipecacuanha, will give 
plants more readily by this method than any other. 

Seeds. The soil in which to sow seeds, especially that portion 
of it which is near the surface, and in which there are weed seeds, 
should be prepared beforehand so as to avoid the necessity of pull- 
ing up the weeds and the consequent danger attending the opera- 
tion of dislodging the seeds which we wish to germinate, especially 
during the process of germination. The most natural method is 
to spread the soil out on a flat surface in a hothouse and encourage 
the weed seeds to germinate by the aid of heat and moisture. The 
soil should be spread out quite shallow, and in a few days' time the 
seeds that are likely to prove most troublesome will have germin- 
ated. The weeds that one finds most noxious are quick in germin- 
ating, and will be rendered harmless by this method. They are 
principally La wf WW, Plantago, Ragweed, Grasses, Draba, Anthemis, 
Rumex, Poriulaca, Acalypha, Oxalis and Trifolium; but the list 
varies with different localities. Burning or steaming the soil is 
often resorted to, but for seed sowing I prefer the other method as 
more likely to rid the soil thoroughly of the common, troublesome 
weeds. Soil intended for use in connection with raising Ferns from 
spores should be treated even more carefully, in order to destroy 
every vestige of vegetable life. To do this thoroughly the soil 
should be boiled for a reasonable length of time, and afterward 
dried in the sun. 

Seedlings which from their nature require pricking off (that is, 
putting around the outer edge of the soil in pots, or in rows, in boxes) 
shortly after the seed leaves are developed, should be raised in seed 
pans which have at least half their depth devoted to drainage. 
Most of this should consist of pieces of broken pots, or cincers, 
covered over with some rough material, such as half-decayed 



PROPAGATION 25 

leaves, to prevent the soil washing down. In very shallow seed 
containers, whether pans or boxes, the bottom part should be 
covered with rough screenings, with finer soil above, and pressed 
moderately firm. In covering the seeds the old rule is to cover the 
seed with its own thickness in soil, and if followed out few mistakes 
will be made. The coverings should not be of such a nature as to 
bake readily; finely screened sphagnum moss mixed with sand is a 
good substance with which to cover almost any medium-sized seeds 
that take a reasonably short time in germinating, as it retains 
moisture without imparting too much to the soil below. 

Very small seeds, such as those of Begonia and Gloxinia, do not 
need any covering; but to preserve a humid atmosphere around 
them, or to furnish the conditions necessary for germination, they 
must be covered with something which prevents a too rapid evapor- 
ation of moisture. This is supplied by a pane of glass, which should 
be kept on until the seed leaves appear. It need not fit tightly, so 
as to preclude the possibiHty of a slight circulation of air; where 
this is the case the seedlings are apt to die from fungous attacks, 
even before the seed leaves are developed. Where glass is used as 
a covering for small seeds the soil ought to be moderately moist 
before sowing. 

Thickly sown seed is an evil to be guarded against; a crowded 
box or pan of seedhngs, whether they be Ferns or flowering plants, 
is next to useless, because shortly after germinating the seedlings 
begin to get weak and never afterward make such healthy plants 
as those which get a chance to form short, stocky growth — enough 
at least to enable one to handle them easily during the operation of 
pricking or potting off. Seeds, as soon as germinated, as a rule, 
should not be kept in a shaded place, as then they are apt to get 
"drawn"; that is, too much length between the surface of the soil 
and the seed leaves. Most seedlings in the early part of the season 
will stand all the sun they can get. This especially applies to 
seedlings of such plants as Phlox Drummondi, Madagascar Vincas 
and Verbenas. Among herbaceous perennials some of the Del- 
phinium and Rheum, also many of the umbelliferous plants, have 
seedlings with the petioles of the seed leaves forming a long tube 
and looking as if they were very much "drawn," no matter whether 
grown in sun or shade. But this is their nature, as the plumule has 
to penetrate the tube near the base in order to reach the light, 
instead of between the blades of the seed leaves. 

A great many kinds of plants in the seedling stage, when prick- 
ing off becomes necessary, are not of sufficient size to go into small 



26 PLANT CULTURE 

pots; in these they take up too much room and are apt to suffer 
from too much or too little water. One will get dry here and there, 
and the chances are that when water is given others in the neighbor- 
hood will get water when they do not need it. Putting several in a 
pot is just as unsatisfactory, as they must be divided up as soon as 
sufficient growth is made, and repotted. This applies especially 
to herbaceous plants which have a large number of fibry roots in- 
stead of a tap root. 

The plan of putting the seedlings in boxes, when large enough 
to handle, is the most satisfactory method. Watering is then an 
easy matter, and the seedlings, when large enough, can be trans- 
ferred to the open ground or potted as required — it is a saving 
of space and a saving in labor, especially when the seedlings are 
transferred to frames and to their permanent quarters. 

The seeds of many plants may be safely sown at almost any 
time of the year. The majority of herbaceous plants should be 
sown during the late Summer, as they occupy comparatively little 
space throughout the Winter months, and numerous species will 
bloom the succeeding year, especially if the plants be put in their 
permanent positions in the Fall, which has been found a very advis- 
able thing to do. Seeds of herbaceous plants, sown early in Spring, 
especially by amateurs, do not help in making those plants popular, 
as the seedlings in the majority of cases do not flower the first 
year, and some of the species not even during the second season. 

GRAFTAGE. Graftage consists of placing together two sepa- 
rate parts of plants so that they will unite and grow as one. That 
part on which the graft is placed is usually a plant provided with 
roots, and is called the stock. The graft, or cion, is the part which is 
intended to develop into the future part of the tree, shrub, or vine, 
as the case may be, which will bear leaves, flowers and fruits. When 
the union has taken place, both stock and cion continue developing 
as one plant, with, in most instances, very little to indicate that 
stock and cion, or roots and branches, belong to different species, 
varieties, or forms. Grafting is, however, frequently done upon 
the branches of trees, shrubs or even herbaceous plants, so that 
frequently we may see several varieties in flower together, or 
earlier or later as the case may be, with the flowers of the species, 
or variety, upon which the grafts are growing. 

Some of the reasons why grafting is resorted to as a means of 
propagating certain species, but principally varieties and forms, in 
preference to other methods of propagation, are as follows: In 



PROPAGATION 27 

growing seedling fruit trees it often requires a long number of years 
to know whether these seedHngs are worth perpetuating, as seedlings 
are apt to be a long time in fruiting, partly owing to their robust 
growth; but every species of plant raised from seed takes a certain 
time before the flowering and fruiting stage is reached. When old 
enough to give wood for cions, the seedhngs which we will suppose 
to be the results of cross-fertilization are grafted on older seedlings, 
or fruit-bearing stocks, with the result that flowering and fruiting 
are hastened very considerably. When it is desired to propagate a 
large number of any selected variety that has thus been flowered 
and fruited, the grafts are often used on one- or two-year-old 
seedHng stocks. It will thus be seen that a very large number of 
slow flowering and fruiting plants can be raised by this method, in 
a comparatively short time. But the uses to which it is put by no 
means end here. Some flowering shrubs have the same character- 
istics; they take quite a long while to flower from the seedHng stage. 
Very often seedlings do not make floriferous plants, and many of the 
forms do not produce seeds at all. Therefore, recourse is had to 
grafting or budding, not only to lessen as much as possible the time 
between the periods of propagation and flowering, but also to per- 
petuate certain peculiarities in species and varieties which cannot 
be brought about by seeds or cuttings. Frequently the stock has 
beneficial influences upon the cion. One of them is that some things 
which are comparatively tender are rendered hardier by being 
grafted upon the stocks of hardy species or their varieties. In order 
to make fruit trees dwarf, such as Apples and Pears, certain well- 
known stocks are used for this purpose, such as Paradise and 
Doucin stocks for Apples and Quince for Pears. 

For outdoor grafting the usual time is in the Spring, just before 
the plants are in active growth, the actual time varying, of course, 
with different plants and in different parts of the country. The 
cions are cut in early Winter, and buried in the soil or sand, just 
out of the reach of frost. This keeps them fresh and plump, and in 
a condition to readily unite with the stock. 

The methods of grafting are numerous; some of them are quite 
complicated and have been originated merely to show the skill of 
some operator. The easiest way may be said to be the best, and 
the best methods are so easy that an intelligent child may be taught 
in a short time to perform the work successfully. Indoor grafting 
is practiced during August and September, and, with dormant wood, 
during the period from December to March. As a rule, the closer 
the relationship between stock and cion the greater the chances of 



28 



PLANT CULTURE 



a successful union between them. But plants are sometimes suc- 
cessfully grafted on stocks of different genera of the same order. 
The Syringa on the Ligustrum is a familiar example. 

Cleft Grafting. This method of grafting is used principally 
upon large stocks which are cut off perfectly level. With a grafting 
tool, a large knife or cleaver, the stock is split. The cions about 
three eyes long are then cut in the form of a perfectly even-sided 
wedge at the base and cut off the top just above a bud The cleft 
is opened and the cions are inserted, one on each side. Be sure, in 
all grafting, that the layers between the bark and wood of both 
stock and cion are in contact. 

Wax all cut surfaces with a grafting wax, which may be made 
by melting together 4 parts of resin, 2 parts of beeswax and i part 
of beef tallow. When thoroughly melted pour in a pail of cold 
water and as it cools gradually pull it like molasses candy until it 
becomes the color of Manila paper. 





Fig. 4— Cleft Grafting 
The above illustration shows in detail how cleft grafting is performed— usually on large 
Apple and Pear trees. On the left are the cions with tapering cut; on the right, the 
branches cleft or opened, also showing the waxing over. Cleft grafting is usually per- 
formed just before the trees start into growth in the Spring. To be sure that the 
cions used are dormant, they are usually collected in late Winter and stored in damp 

sand or sawdust. 



PROPAGATION 



29 



Tongue or whip grafting is 

used with seedlings as stocks, the 
stock and cion being of the same 
thickness. The stock is cut off with 
a long slant, the cion is prepared in 
the same manner. A longitudinal cut 
is made in each so that when the 
cuts are opened the stock and cion 
will fit exactly in their places. A little 
practice will show where the tongues 
should be made. The graft should 
be wrapped with waxed string, which 
is made by soaking a ball of No. 18 
knitting cotton in grafting wax. This 
method is 'employed especially upon 
roots of seedling fruits and upon the 
more slender twigs of trees. 

Saddle grafting. In this case 
that part of the stock on which the 
cion is to be placed is cut to a wedge 
shape. A neatly made notch is cut 
in the bottom part of the wood of 
the cion to fit closely over the wedge- 
shaped part of the stock. Tie the 
stock firmly with waxed string. This 
method is used in grafting Rhodo- 
dendrons. 




Fig. 5-Whip or Tongue Grafting 
In grafting the stock and cion 
must be firmly bound around with 
broad raffia or other ligature. The 
above drawing is intended to show 
how to fix the graft, but the binding 
must cover the union thoroughly 
to exclude the air. 



Crown grafting is performed by heading back a large-sized 
stock, making an incision in the bark from the severed part down- 
ward. Raise the bark on each side of the perpendicular cut, as in 
budding; make a slanting cut on one side of the cion, and insert 
beneath the bark; bind together and cover with grafting wax. 

Veneer grafting is principally practiced on coniferous plants 
and Rhododendrons. It consists of making a cross cut through the 
bark and slightly into the wood. A short distance above this cross 
cut begin with a slanting cut downward until the first cut is reached; 
shape the cion so that it fits exactly; tie in position and cover with 
wax. The stock is headed back after the union has taken place. 

Inarching consists of uniting the cion to the stock while it is 
still supported by the parent root. It is the simplest of all the 



so 



PLANT CULTURE 



methods. A slice of bark and cambium is cut from both stock and 
cion, the two brought together so as to fit exactly; they are then 
firmly tied. After the union is assured the cion is gradually severed 
from the parent to avoid a too sudden check. 





A B C 

Fig. 6 — Veneer Grafting 

A, The stock notched. B, The cion cut to fit the stock. 

C, Stock and cion together. 



Root grafting is a very simple operation, and is practiced with 
such plants as Clematis, Rose, Shrubby Paeony, and many other 
plants. When all other stock fails this may be tried, merely select- 
ing roots of the same or allied species. The Shrubby Paeonies are 
grafted on the large tuber-like roots of the herbaceous species. A 
notch is made in the side of the swollen tuber-like root, the lower 
part of the cion being made to fit this. 

With Roses and Clematis splice grafting will answer*; with 
Wistarias and Bignonias saddle grafting is preferred. 

In grafting, a very sharp and clean knife should be used, to make 
a clean cut, so that the surfaces may go closely together. In all 
cases the bark of both stock and cion should come evenly together, 
at least on one side, and on both if possible. 

BUDDING differs from grafting in that only a single bud is used 
on the stock instead of a piece of branch on which there are one or 
more buds, as in grafting. A near relationship must exist between 
the plant from which the bud is selected and the plant which is to 
receive it. The operation is a trifle more delicate than that of 



PROPAGATION 31 

grafting, but a little practice will render it an easy task. The best 
time for the work is after the plants have completed most of their 
growth, but before they approach the dormant stage. When done 
during the late Summer, all that is necessary to accomplish the 
first season is to secure a union. The bud remains dormant until 
the following Spring. There are several methods; that most com- 
monly practiced, shield budding, consists of making a cross cut 
through the bark of the stem of the stock. It should never be 
greater than for one-third of the circumference. From the center 
of the cross cut make a longitudinal cut downward; raise the bark 
sufficiently in the angles of the cut parts; this is best accomplished 
with a finely prepared quill. The stock is now ready for the recep- 
tion of the bud ; this is taken usually from a branch smaller in cir- 
cumference than the stock. It must necessarily be from the current 
year's wood, and the bud should be from the central part of the 
shoot. Cut the leaf away, but not too near the bud, and with a 
sharp, clean knife slice the bud from the shoot. It is immaterial if 
a little of the wood be taken with the bark, but the length of bark 
should be greater below the bud than above. The top part should be 
cut off transversely one-third of an inch above the bud and double 
that distance below. After the bud has been placed in position, tie 
moderately firm with raffia, examining it from time to time to pre- 
vent the raffia from cutting into the bark. Budding is usually per- 
formed during the latter part of Summer. 

LAYERING. This operation is on the same principle as that 
of mossing Rubber plants and Crotons, that is, producing roots on 
the branches while yet attached to the parent plant. It is exceed- 
ingly simple when done correctly, but some of the little details left 
out, or performed the wrong way, will render the operation unsuc- 
cessful. An expert, with shrubs amenable to this method of increase, 
will seldom lose a layer. Briefly stated, the operation consists of 
bending a branch low enough so that after it has been notched, 
tongued or ringed, as the case may be, the part so treated should be 
several inches beneath the surface of the soil, so as to throw out 
roots, while being at the same time supplied with nourishment from 
the parent plant. It is a convenient method of rooting large pieces 
of a bush, and should be practiced where small quantities of certain 
things are desired, especially those which are difficult to increase 
by other methods of propagation. In layering it is necessary to 
select branches near the ground, so that they can be bent down 
without breaking. To perform the operation by tonguing, with a 



32 



PLANT CULTURE 




Fig. 7 — Diagram of Layers of Various Sorts 

a, A diagonal cut in the stem which induces roots to be sent out. c, A continuous 
layer, each node produces a plant, ex. grapes, ch, Chinese layer. The stock is prepared 
as in a, and covered by sphagnum moss, m. Mound layers — note root action, p. 
Another method of Chinese layering. A pot is used, broken in two and tied about 
the branch, s. Simple layer. A branch is pegged to the soil after having a cut made 
at a where the roots should start, t. Tip layer. Used successfully with Raspberries. 



sharp knife make an incision in the lower part of the branch at the 
place where it is desired to have the roots. The incision should 
vary in length and depth with the thickness of the branch; it should 
never be deeper than half the thickness of the wood, and should be 
made toward the end of the branch so that the tongue will eventually 
form the base of the stem after being separated from the parent 
plant. The layer, while undergoing the process of rooting, should 
be held in place with a peg, which must be strong enough to last 
several months in the ground. With few exceptions shrubs and 
vines are layered during Summer while the plants are in active 
growth. In layering, it should be kept in mind that the soil sur- 
rounding the part from which roots are desired should never be al- 
lowed to get dust dry ; to prevent this a little sphagnum moss should 
be placed around the cut part, in cases where the rooting is a slow 
process; and a layer of moss, or other material, on the surface of the 
soil will prevent a too rapid evaporation of moisture. But in any 



PROPAGATION 



33 



case, copious waterings during dry weather will be found beneficial. 
In the treatment of vines, such plants as Glycine sinensis and Puer- 
aria Thunbergiana can be layered the entire length of the previous 
season's growth, thus giving a plant at every point. The period at 
which the layer may be severed from the parent must be governed 
by the quantity of roots made. Better to keep it on the plant than 
to sever too early. After a season has elapsed the majority will 
have rooted, if attention has been given; but it will not hurt to let 
them stay for a longer period attach ed to the old plant. For furnish- 
ing suitable wood for layers, old plants are sometimes cut down quite 
close to the ground, in order to produce a quantity of young growth. 
Plants so treated are termed "stools." Some of the plants which 
layer easily are Rhododendron, Enkianthus, Gordojiia, Magnolia, 
especially the Asiatic species and their hybrid variations, Syringa, 
Forsythia, Ligustrum and the Hybrid Perpetual Roses. 




CHAPTER III 

Scientific Names 



Why Botanical Names are Used. The question is often 
asked by the amateur, why scientific, or botanical names are used. 
There are several good reasons for this: (i) The names are in 
Latin, a dead and unchanging language, so that the words are the 
same for all time. (2) Latin is used as the international language for 
science; in other words, the gardener in China, Argentina, or the 
United States knows exactly the plant meant when the words 
Solanum tuberosumis mentioned, but we in the United States call 
it a potatOy in France it is pomme de terre, in Germany it is kartoffel, 
in Spain it is patata, and in each country a local name is applied. 
Botanical names are the Esperanto of science. Even in our country 
the name Dusty Miller is applied to a number of different plants. 
(3) Scientific names are convenient because they are of two parts, 
the genus and the species; by knowing the word Pr units, the genus, 
we know that the stone fruits, Peaches, Plums, Almonds, Apricots, 
Cherries and others, are all aUied. These different kinds of Primus 
are thus given, respectively, such specific names as Prunus Persica, 
P. domestica, P. communis^ P. Armeniaca and P. Ccrasus. 

Latin Names and What some of them Mean. The botani- 
cal name of a plant is made up of two parts — the generic name or 
name common to the group, and the specific name or particular 
species of that genus. The specific name is often descriptive of 
a characteristic of the plant, ex., Salvia azurea; Salvia is the genus, 
and azurea is descriptive of it; in other words, Salvia azurea is the 
Blue Salvia. Many times the species name is given to honor some 
person, ex., Aconitmn Wilsonii; the name of the species IVilsonii is 
merely the Latin form of Wilson. Some species are named from the 
geographical location in which they are found, ex.. Primula chinensis, 
Fragaria virginiana. The species name, when an adjective, usually 
agrees with the genus name in gender. Thus the adjective albus 
has the masculine form albus with a genus such as Dictamnus, albus; 
the feminine form Carya alba, and the neuter form Geum album. 
Most trees are feminine whatever their termination; therefore, the 
name of the White Oak is Quercus alba, even though the termination 

34 



SCIENTIFIC NAMES 



35 




Aquilegias, — See page 172 

These charming perennials, also known as Columbine, are easily grown in the garden 
where they cross one with another so that natural hybrids are often most interesting. 



36 



PLANT CULTURE 



of the genus-name is i{s. Species-names derived from persons end 
in i, asFischeri, but if the person's name ends in a hard consonant 
the ending is ii — Scottii, Wilsonii, Davisii, Veitchii. Often the 
person's name is in the possessive as Iris Douglassmna. Certain 
old genus names or proper names when used as species-names are 
capitalized, for example, Begonia Rex, Inula Helenium. Other 
species names are not capitalized. 

The list which follows is adapted from Bailey's "Cyclopedia of 
Horticulture." For a more complete list the reader should consult 
that work. The list includes mostly descriptive species-names. 

Species Names of Plants 



abortivus, parts failing to develop 

acaidis, stemless 

acuminatus, long-pointed, tapering 

acutilobus, sharply lobed 

{Estivalis, summer 

affiftiSy related to another species 

alatus, winged 

albicans, whitish 

albus, white 

alpestris, alpine 

alius, tall 

amabilis, lovely 

anceps, two edged, two headed 

angustus, narrow 

annuuSf annual 

apetalus, without petals 

aphyllus, without leaves 

arborescenSf somewhat tree like, 

woody 
argenteiis, silvery 
arvensis, pertaining to cultivated 

fields 
asper^ rough 
atro-, dark; ex., atrococcineus, 

dark scarlet 
aureus, golden 
aiistralis, southern 
azureus, light blue, azure 
baccatus, berried 
barbatuSy barbed, bearded 
bicolor^ two colored 
biennis^ living two years only 
bifiduSf cut twice 
blandus, mild, bland 
bonus, good 
borealis, northern 
botryoides, grapelike 
breviSy short 



coeruleus, dark blue 
ccBsius, bluish gray 
callosus, thick skinned 
campanulatus, bell-shaped 
candicans, white wooly 
carneus, flesh colored 
caudatuSf tailed 
chryso-y golden; ex., chrysophylla, 

golden leaved 
coccineus, scarlet 
conimmiis, common 
concolor, colored similarly 
cordatus, heart shaped 
cruentus, bloody 
cuneatus, wedge shaped 
cuspidatuSf sharp, stiff point 
dimorphus, two forms 
dioicuSy dioecious, each sex on 

separate plant 
divaricatiis, spreading 
domestis cultivated 
echin-, spiny; ex., echinocarpus, 

prickly fruited 
edulis, edible 
elegans, elegant 
ensiformis, sword shaped 
exaltatus, very tall 
ferox, very thorny 
festivus, gay 
filifera, bearing threads 
flore-pleno, double flowered 
floribunda, free blooming 
formosus, beautiful 
fragrans, fragrant 
frutescens, shrubby 
gibbus, swollen on one side 
glaber, smooth 
glaucus, grayish 



SCIENTIFIC NAMES 



37 



glomeratus, clustered 

gracilis, slender 

grandis, large 

hetero-, various; ex., heterophylla, 

leaves of various shapes 
Jiirtus, hairy 
hortensis, garden form 
hiimilis, dwarf 
hybridus, hybrid 
igneus, fiery 

ilicijolius, holly like leaves 
incanus, hoary 
incisus, cut 
insignis, remarkable 

IcBvis, smooth 

latifolins, broad leaved 

lepto-, thin; ex., leptophyllus, thin 

leaved 
luridus, pale, sallow 
lutescens, yellowish 

macra-, large; ex., macranthus, 

large flowered 
maculatus, spotted 
magnificus, distinguished 
majalis, of May 
major, large 
maximus, large 
micro-, small; ex., microphylla, 

small leaved 
mhius, smaller 
mollis, soft, soft hairy 
mono-, one; ex., monophylla, one 

leaved 
multi-, many; ex., multijugus, 

many times joined 
muralis, growing on walls 
nanus, dwarf 
natans, floating 
nemoralis, of the woods 
nidus, nest 
niger, black 
nitidus, shining 
nivalis, snowy 
nohilis, famous 
nudi-, nude; ex., nudicaulis, naked 

stem 
officinalis, medicinal 
ornatiis, adorned 
pallidiis, pale 
palmatus, shape of hand 



palustris, march loving 
panduratiis, fiddle shaped 
parvi-, small; ex., parvi-coronati, 

small crown or trumpet 
patens, spreading 
peltatus, attached at center 
pinnatus, leaflets placed on each 

side, opposite of palmatus 
platy-, broad; ex., platyphyllus, 

broad leaved 
plicatus, folded lengthwise 
plumarius, plumed, feathery 
poly-, many; ex., polyanthus, many 

flowers 
prcecox, very early 
pratensis, of the meadows 
pseudo-, not genuine; ex., pseudo- 

tsuga, false Tsuga 
pubescens, downy 
pulcher, handsome 
pumilis, dwarf 
punctatiis, dotted 
pungens, sharp pointed 
racemosus, flowers in long continu- 
ous clusters 
radicans, rooting 
repens, creeping '^ 

sativus, cultivated 
scaber, rough 
schiz-,c\it\ ex., scJiizophyllus, cut 

leaved 
sempervirctis, evergreen 
speciosiis, good looking 
squalens, dirty 
suaveolens, sweet scented 
tenax, strong 
teniii-, slender; ex., tennifolia, 

slender leaved 
uliginosus, prefers wet places 
undidatiis, wavy 
urens, burning, stinging 
utilis, useful 

variabilis, many forms 
vernus, of Spring 
versicolor, variously colored 
villosus, soft hairy 
virens, green 
viridus, green 
vulgaris, common 
xanlhinus, yellow 



38 



PLANT CULTURE 




Fig. 8— Section of Typical Flower 
P,- Petal, all the petals taken together is the corolla. S, Sepal, the sepals taken together 
is'the calyx. ST, Stamen, the male part of the flower; AN, the pollen producing part 
or anther; FI, the filament or thread-like portion. PI, Pistil, the female part of the 
flower. STI, its sticky stigma which receives the pollen; O, the ovary which bears 
the seeds. R, Receptacle, a portion often making part of a fruit. (See page 30). 





Fig. 9 — Pea Blossom 

Note that all the stamens, except one, 
are united together. 



Fig, id — Tomato Blossom 

Note the ring of stamens surrounding 

the pistil. (See page 40). 



CHAPTER IV 
Hybridization of Plants 



Several years ago there was much discussion of the use of the 
words hybrid and cross. The writers now use these words inter- 
changeably. A hybrid is a cross between two plants which differ 
in one or more characteristics. As all plants differ, a hybrid is the 
result of any cross. Formerly, hybridity meant weakness, but now 
we have come to see that hybrids often surpass the parents in 
vigor and quality. 

In order to cross plants successfully one must intimately study 
their structure. We must distinguish the male and female parts 
and their relative time of ripening. It is true that all flowers are 
essentially the same. A perfect flower has both male and female 
parts in the same flower. The male portions are the stamens; they 
bear the pollen. The female portion is known as the pistil ; it usually 
has a sticky or feathery head so that pollen once lodging there may 
remain. At the base of the pistil is the ovary, or more properly 
called the ovulary; its function is to bear the seeds. Besides these 
essential parts of the flower there may also be found showy petals 
and leaf -like sepals, but they are non-essentials. (See Fig. 8). 

In the Rose, there are many stamens prominently filling the 
center of the flower; tucked in among them at the very center is 
the small bunch of pistils. To form seed it is necessary for pollen 
grains to fall on the pistils. Each ovule in the ovary is waiting for 
a pollen grain in order that it may produce a seed. In the Poppy 
and Orchid capsules are thousands of seeds, each of which resulted 
from the growth of a pollen grain placed upon the pistil. In Corn 
the stamens are the tassels, the pistils are the silks. Any silk which 
fails to receive a pollen grain also fails to produce a kernel of corn; 
a blank in the ear results. 

There is a large group of Daisy like flowers, for example, the 
Lettuce, Zinnia, China Aster and Chrysanthemum. In these plants 
what appears to be a flower is really a bunch of small flowers. 
Flowers in the outer row are usually larger and more showy, while 

39 



40 



PLANT CULTURE 





Fig. II — Daisy like Flower 
A, Flower of Calendula; note disc florets, or tubular flowers at center and rav florets, 
or showy flowers around, the outside. B, A ray floret; note the stigma of the pistil. 
C, A disc floret; note the five-parted corolla, the ring of stamens at center surrounding 

the pistil. 



the inner row is made up of tubular flowers. They ripen at differ- 
ent times and shed their pollen on each other. 

Insects and the wind usually carry the pollen from one flower 
to the next, but there are some flowers which shed their pollen upon 
their own pistil. This sort of flower is said to be self-fertiHzed or 
close-pollinated. The Peas and Beans are examples. 

In hybridizing work the object is usuaHy to cross two sorts of 
plants for the improvement of one or the other in some way. Let 
us suppose we are to cross a Tomato. The Tomato flower is a perfect 
flower; the stamens are found in a ring about the pistil at the center. 
In order to get a hybrid between two varieties, say the Stone and 
Earliana, we will use Stone as the female parent — in other words, 
we expect the Stone to bear the fruit, but will take the poflen from 
the Earliana. Just before the flower of the Stone opens in the early 
morning we should use a small forceps or a needle to forcibly open 
the flower and remove its stamens. This is emasculation. We are 
eliminating the male part. The pistil must not be injured. After 
this we will place a bag over the flower so that no other pollen may 
lodge upon the flower. Should a bee bring pollen to our flower it 



HYBRIDIZATION OF PLANTS 



41 




Fig. 12 — Crossing Technique of Gladiolus 

A small vial is secured to the thumb of the left hand by means of a rubber band; the 
fingers are thus left free to hold the flower. With the right hand the stamens are 
easily removed by the use of forceps, and dropned into the vial. — From Cornetl Extension 

Bulletin No. 10 




Fig. 13— Squash Blossom. A, Female Flower. 
B. Male Fi-OWERi 



42 PLANT CULTURE 

might produce seed but it would not be a cross between the two va- 
rieties we wish. At noon the bag is removed and the flower examined 
with a lens. If the tip of the pistil looks sticky, pollen from the 
Earliana may be placed upon it, otherwise we would wait until the 
pistil becomes sticky. The pollen may be transferred by a camel's 
hair brush or the stamen of Earliana may be picked and carried to 
the emasculated flower. After covering the tip of the stigma with 
pollen the bag is again placed on the flower and a tag is attached to 
the stem noting the fact that the flower has been crossed with 
Earliana. (See Fig. lo.) 

All crossing is a modification of this method. Some flowers are 
easier to emasculate than the Tomato and others are more difficult. 
For easy work cross the Gladiolus or the Petunia; their sexual or- 
gans are very distinct. The stronger parent is usually employed as 
the seed bearer. Some flowers, as the Carnation, will require one 
week after emasculation before pollination may be carried on. 

In Cucumbers, Squashes, Pumpkins and like plants each flower 
bears only one sex. The female flower (see fig. 13- A) has an 
embryo Squash beneath it — it has no stamens; the male flower (fig. 
13-B) has no ovary. It is necessary, therefore, that a bee carry 
the pollen from the male to the female flower, otherwise no seed is 
formed. 

Saving Seed from Desirable Plants 

In saving seed for propagating superior plants the character- 
istics of the whole plant should be considered. 

Let us speak of the Tomato again. Should you care to save seed 
of a plant, bear in mind that vigor of growth, quahty of fruit and 
productiveness are essential features. Be careful, therefore, to 
choose the plant which bears well-developed fruit and is a good 
yielder as well. Large Tomatoes are often found on plants bearing 
few fruits; consequently, they are not the most desirable to select 
for seed purposes. Tomatoes for seed must be allowed to thoroughly 
ripen. All seeds should remain on the plants until ripe, but must 
be picked before they scatter their seeds. 

In saving seed of Primroses, Cyclamens, Pinks and other flowers 
it is better to cross the flowers with others on the same plant if one 
wishes to keep the sorts as true as they were. Saving seeds from 
desirable plants is quite different from hybridizing plants; in the 
former case we are attempting to keep the variety true, in the 
latter we are expecting something new and different. 



CHAPTER V 

Plant Enemies 



There never was a cure like a prevention. As a preventive 
against insects and diseases avoid localities favorable to disease, 
burn all affected stock, rotate crops, keep down weeds which har- 
bor insects or diseases, refrain from planting affected stock and 
have preventive remedies at hand. 

DISEASES 

"Whenever the normal functions of plants are interfered with, 
the plant is diseased," says Dr. Freeman of the University of Minne- 
sota. Butmany of the garden troubles are not true diseases. Plants 
become yellow because they are getting too much water or too 
little, or, perhaps, their roots are affected by some insect, or perhaps 
the soil is too poor or too rich. Real diseases are caused by certain 
fungi and germs. They affect parts of plants and may be prevented 
from spreading, but the affected parts cannot be cured. There is 
very little real information available for the control of plant diseases; 
each disease on each plant requires special treatments at special 
times. The control of plant diseases usually depends upon the use 
of copper or sulphur in some form. 

FUNGICIDES. The following will be found helpful in con- 
trolling many of the destructive plant diseases: 

A. Bordeaux Mixture. This is the most effective remedy 
for many leaf spots and rusts. It discolors the foliage and, there- 
fore, cannot be used in many cases. The ingredients are, 4 pounds 
of copper sulphate (blue vitriol), 4 pounds of quick or unslaked 
lime, and 50 gallons of water. Both the copper sulphate and the 
lime must be in solution before the two substances are mixed to- 
gether ; in other words, only dilute solutions must be mixed together, 
otherwise the mixture will not be proper and will injure the plants. 

For smaller amounts, Peltier gives these directions: *'A stock 
solution of copper sulphate is made by dissolving one pound of 

43 



44 



PLANT CULTURE 




PLANT ENEMIES 45 

copper sulphate in one gallon of water. A stock solution of quick- 
lime is made by weighing out a definite quantity and slaking it with 
a small quantity of water. After the lime is thoroughly slaked 
and cooled, enough water is added to make a solution containing 
one pound of lime per gallon of water. These solutions, if kept in 
covered vessels to prevent evaporation, will remain good for a long 
time. In preparing the Bordeaux mixture from stock, measure out 
the proper quantity of your solution of copper sulphate and dilute 
it with half the quantity of water needed. In a similar manner 
measure the lime from stock, and dilute with the other half of the 
water, but in separate vessels, and mix as outlined above." 

B. Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate. Dissolve 6 ounces oi 
copper carbonate in about 3 pints of ammonia, but use no more 
ammonia than is necessary for the solution. Add 50 gallons of 
water. The solution without the water will keep some time if bottled 
up. It does not discolor the foliage. It is effective against black 
spot of Roses, leaf spots and some rusts. 

C. Potassium Sulphide. Use 3 ounces of potassium sul- 
phide to 8 or 10 gallons of water. Good for mildews and rusts in 
the greenhouse and out of doors for Gooseberry mildew. 

D. Sulphur, Powdered, or Flowers of Sulphur. Used with 
a powder gun or placed in cheese-cloth bags and dusted on foliage 
while dew is on the plants. In the greenhouse, a paste should be 
made of sulphur and water with a quarter part of lime and smeared 
on steam pipes. Effective against mildews, especially Rose mildew 
and Asparagus rust. In Summer, in the greenhouse, when the 
steam is not on, sulphur vaporizers are useful, but they must be 
used carefully. 

E. Lime and Sulphur Solution. In making this spray at 
home any amount may be made, using the standard proportions, 
10 pounds of stone lime, 10 pounds of flowers of sulphur with enough 
water to make 50 gallons of solution. Place the lime in a wooden 
receptacle and add enough water to start the slaking, then add the 
sulphur, stirring it in thoroughly. It is ready for use after adding 
the required water. Commercial lime-sulphur solutions can be now 
obtained which require no preparation except adding water. Lime 
and sulphur is effective for a Winter spray controlling scale insects 
and Peach-leaf curl; as a Summer spray for diseases of fruit. The 
commercial preparations usually require 7 gallons of water for 
each gallon of stock solution when used as a Winter spray, but 



46 PLANT CULTURE 

each gallon of the stock preparation must be diluted with 40 gal- 
lons of water when used upon trees in leaf. 

F. Formalin Solution. Dr. W. E. Britton advises: 

a. I pint (i pound) formalin to 50 gallons of water for grain 

smut. 

b. I pint formalin to 30 gallons of water for Potato scab. Soak 

for 2 hours. 

c. I pint formalin in 12}^ gallons of water for sterilizing soil for 

damping-off fungus. Use %-i gallon for each square 
foot surface treated. Cover for 24 hours after treating; 
air afterward and stir soil; allow 7-10 days before seed- 
ing or 10-14 days before transplanting. 

G. Corrosive Sublimate, i part to 1000 parts of water, 
is one of the best disinfectants. It is used 2 ounces to 15 gallons 
of water for Potato scab. Soak seed Potatoes in this 2 hours be- 
fore cutting. Use wooden vessels. 



INSECTS 

Most of the miserable ''bugs," so-called, are of two sorts— those 
which eat the leaves and those which merely puncture the leaf to 
suck out the juice. The gardener should become more familiar with 
the ways of the insects, for some are valuable and should be ad- 
mired. Those who have read Sir John Lubbock, Faber or IVIaeter- 
linck realize that the insect world is quite as romantic as our own. 




Fig. 14 

A sucking insect— note the formidable Head of biting insect — note jaws, large 

beak, used to pierce plants and extract compound eyes, and the feelers near 

juices. jaws and eyes. 



PLANT ENEMIES 47 

Root Insects. Some of these insects are found on the roots, 
in which case the plants affected are thought to be diseased. Some 
of these insects actually chew the roots, while others suck out the sap. 

Borers. There is a group of insects which burrow into the 
stalks, the bark and solid wood of branches, and even the trunks of 
trees. The fruit trees are especially attacked by these borers. 
Peaches, Apples, Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, 
Roses, China Asters, Squashes and many other plants are so affected. 
They must be dug out. It is difficult to apply an insecticide effec- 
tive against borers after they get into the plants. Spray the trunks 
with kerosene emulsion and a caustic solution of soap, caustic 
potash and carbolic acid. Tarred paper or wire protectors will also 
keep the insects from laying their eggs. Remove all weeds and 
suckers and keep clean cultivation. 

Leaf, Flower and Bud Insects, Other insects prefer the 
leaves and buds. This class is the easiest to control. As in medi- 
cal work, there is no panacea for all ills, but it is not dangerous to 
make one general sweeping statement about their control. It is 
this: Sucking insects are seldom controlled by poisonous insecticides; 
their breathing pores along the sides of their bodies must be hit and 
filled with the fluid; they are controlled by contact insecticides. 
Chewing insects greedily eat the leaves which, if covered with a 
poison, will kill them. 

CONTACT INSECTICIDES. The following insecticides are 
effective against sucking insects: 

1. Tobacco or Nicotine Extracts are placed first in the list 
because they are the most effective. Those having the highest 
percentage of nicotine are the most valuable. Tobacco extracts 
are found in both liquid and powder form and should be sprayed 
upon the plants out of doors according to directions for each sort. 
The addition of some soap to the tobacco solutions will help to 
make them adhere to the insect. In the greenhouse, plants may be 
fumigated by tobacco solutions or by burning tobacco dust. By 
this method the nicotine is more thoroughly applied than by spray- 
ing. Nicotine solutions are effective against plant lice or aphids, 
thrips or any of the softer bodied bugs; the sucking insects. 

2. Soap Solutions for sprays are not as effective as the to- 
bacco solution and are hardly worthy of use considering the ease of 
obtaining and the effectiveness of the latter. They are useful for 
washin^scale from plants; for this use fish-oil soap, if possible. 



48 PLANT CULTURE 

3. Emulsions are near solutions of some oil and a soap solu- 
tion. Good for plant lice and scale insects. As it is difficult to make 
a perfect emulsion No. i has displaced the use of this class of in- 
secticide. Kerosene emulsion consists of: Hard, soft, or fish-oil 
soap, quarter pound; water, 2 quarts; kerosene, i gallon. Dissolve 
soap in hot water; while still hot but removed from fire add kero- 
sene and pump back and forth till it becomes a creamy mass. If 
made properly the solution will not separate upon cooling. When 
using, dilute with 10 to 15 parts water. 

4. Pyrethrum is the dried and powdered flowers of a certain 
Chrysanthemum, and is useful against thrips and plant lice. As a 
dust it is applied while foliage is moist. Pyrethrum is used in solu- 
tion at the rate of i ounce to 3 gallons of water, mixed a day be- 
fore using. 

5. Carbolic Acid Solution. Fish-oil soap, 8 pounds; crude 
carbolic acid, i gallon; water, 8 gallons. Dissolve soap in hot 
water, add acid, heat to boiling point 20 minutes. Use 20 gallons 
water to each gallon of stock solution. This may be used for mealy 
bugs and soft-bodied insects. 

POISONOUS INSECTICIDES. Use for chewing insects, 
slugs, cut-worms, maggots, caterpillars, and most insects called 
worms. The most used substance for this type of control is arsenic. 

6. Arsenate of Lead. This substance is used at various 
strengths, depending on the plant affected and the insect working, 
usually 3 pounds of paste or i^ pounds of powdered arsenate of 
lead are used to 50 gallons of water. It is now the most used remedy 
for caterpillars, slugs, maggots and worms feeding upon the foliage 
of plants. 

7. Paris Green. Has same use as arsenate of lead, but is not 
quite so effective. 

8. Hellebore. This is procured as a powder. It is much less 
poisonous than arsenical insecticides and is very useful upon ripen- 
ing fruits, especially for the Currant worm. It is applied when dew 
is on the plants. For worms on Currant and Gooseberry bushes 
sprinkle slaked lime very lightly. It is used at the rate of i ounce 
to 2 gallons of water. 

9. Poison Bait. Slugs and cutworms are easily controlled by 
distributing a poison bait over the garden or in little piles under 
the plants. Use wheat bran mixed with a little Paris green or 
arsenic and some syrup. Mix thoroughly and scatter about just 
after dark. 



PLANT ENEMIES 



49 




SoLANUM CAPSiCASTRUM (JERUSALEM Cherrv). — See page 155 



10. Hydrocyanic Acid Gas. Fatally poisonous. For green- 
house use: I ounce potassium cyanide (98 per cent, pure), i ounce 
sulphuric acid, 3 ounces water. Use an earthen dish, pour in water 
and add the acid to it. When all is ready so that the operator can 
make a hasty exit, drop in the potassium cyanide which is best 
placed in a paper. Useful for white fly and most greenhouse in- 
sects, except red spider and nematode worms. Fumigate on dry, 
dark nights when it is still, not windy; close ventilators and leave 
all night. Place danger signs on all doors. The above proportions 
are used for 3,000 cubic feet of air space on Chrysanthemums, 
Cinerarias, Azaleas, bulbs, Carnations and other common plants. 
Ferns and Roses are susceptible to injury; use weaker and then 
increase strength if there is no injury. 



50 



PLANT CULTURE 



11. Carbon-bisulphide. For weevils in stored grain use 
H pound to i,ooo cubic feet of air in an air-tight bin. Place the 
carbon-bisulphide in a pan at the top. The gas, being heavy will 
disseminate through the whole bin. It is sometimes used for root 
insects and is poured into holes in the soil. Never get the gas near 
an open flame — it is very inflammable. 

12. Combination Sprays. One spraying may suffice for the 
control of insects and diseases by using 3 pounds of arsenate of 
lead mixed with the Bordeaux mixture or the lime sulphur solution 
of 50 gallons. 



COMMONER DISEASES AND INSECTS AFFECTING 
ORNAMENTALS 

(The numbers and letters refer to controlling remedies.) 



Ants. Use hot water or 11. Ants 

are thought to spread Peony 

bud rot. 
Aphides. 1, 2, 3. 
Aster bug, black. Use soap dis- 
solved in 1. 
Black spot. B; very difficult to 

control. 
Borers. Make slit in stems of 

herbaceous plants to kill the 

borer. 
Bud moth. 6, 12. 
Cabbage worm. 6, 7 and after 

heading use 8. 
Carnation rust. In field use A; 

in greenhouse use C. 
Caterpillars. 6, 7, 8, 11. 
Currant borer. Cut off cane and 

burn. 
Currant worm. G and 8. 
Cut worm. 9. 
Damping-off. F. 
Euonymus scale. Burn infested 

twigs, spray with 1 in June to 

kill the young. 
Fig-leaf diseases. Use A. 
Flea beetles. 6 often effective. 
Gooseberry mildew. A. 
Grain smut. F. 



Hollyhock rust. Use A just as 
plants come up in Spring. 

Lace wing fly on Rhododendron. 2. 

Leaf-eating worms. 6, 7, 8, 11. 

Leaf spots. A, B. 

Lice. 1, 2, 3. 

Lilac mildew. C, D. 

Maggot. 6, 7 when sweetened 
used to control the adults; 11 
for the larvae below ground. 

Marguerite leaf miner, 1. 

Mealy bug. Spray with good pres- 
sure; 5 or 10 is also good. 

Mildew. C, D. 

Millipedes. 9; lime and salt may 
be used where plants are not 
injured. 

Moles. Trap or use young corn 
poisoned with strychnine. 

Nematodes. Sterilize soil with 
steam or use fresh, uninfested 
soil. 

Peach-leaf curl. E. 

Peony bud rot. Use A just as 
plants come up in Spring. 

Phlox mildew. B, D. 

Plant lice. 1, 3. 

Potato blight. A, every 10 days. 



PLANT ENEMIES 



51 



Potato bug. 6, 7. 

Potato scab. F, G. 

Raspberry cane borer. Cut off 
cane and burn. When pruning 
in Summer for the branching 
of the new canes, cut below 
drooping canes; these should 
be burned. 

Red spider. Spray with water, 
using force; no insecticide neces- 
sary if spraying is done. 

Rhododendron lace wing fly. 
Spray with 1 or 2. 

Root lice. Water with 1 or 2, 
use tobacco stems about the 
plants; use soot and do not 
plant the same kind of plants 
in the infested soil a second 
season. 

Rose black spot. B. 

Rose bug. Hand pick into cans 
of kerosene. 



Rose slug. 6. 

Rusts. A, B, C. 

Scale, in greenhouse, 2; fruit 
trees, E. 

Slugs. 6, 7, 8, 9. 

Smut. E. 

Snapdragon anthracnose. A. 

Sowbug. 9; lime and salt may be 
scattered where plants are not 
injured. 

Thrips. 1, 4, 10. 

Violet leaf spot. In field spray 
with A; in greenhouse do not 
allow the atmosphere to be- 
come too moist. Destroy in- 
fested leaves. 

Violet sawfly. 6 or 8. 

Weevils in stored grain. 11. 

White fly. 10. 

White grubs. Fall plow to ex- 
pose the insects to the cold. 




CHAPTER VI 

Greenhouse and Conservatory Plants 



ABRUS (Prayer Plant). A. precatorius succeeds best in the 
warm house. The plants are prized most because of their pretty 
seeds, which are very frequently used as beads, although they 
are poisonous. 

Propagation. It is raised from seeds secured from European 
seedsmen; they may be sown early in the season. 

ABUTILON (Flowering Maple). Several of the varieties 
having ornamental foliage, such as A. Darwinii tessellatum, A. Sel- 
lovianum marmoratum, A. vexillarium and Eclipse, are good bedding 
plants. The last two are useful for vases and boxes. All of them 
have the leaves blotched with yellow. Souvenir de Bonn and 
Savitzii are variegated with white. A . megapotamicum is a gem for 
basket work. The old variety, Boule de Neige, is a rampant grow- 
ing sort out of doors and might be more largely used in place of the 
over-abundant Canna. The varieties grown for their flowers are 
numerous; the colors are pink, red, white and yellow. They are 
everblooming. 

Culture. The cultivation is the same as that for Geraniums 
and Fuchsias. They make good pot plants if pinched back so that 
they will branch. 

Propagation. Cuttings are rooted in the Fall, or may be taken 
in early Spring from lifted and cut-back plants. Seeds grow readily; 
plants started in Spring will bloom in Fall. 

ACACIA. Acacia Riceana is perhaps the finest greenhouse 
species for very large plants. A. puhescens, A. Drummondi and A. 
paradoxa are all good greenhouse species, flowering well on moder- 
ate-sized specimens. 

Culture. Sandy loam, to which a goodly quantity of leaf soil 

or peat is added, will suit them. Firm potting and good drainage 

are necessary. Plunge the plants outside during Summer, and give 

liberal supplies of water when the plants are well established. 

52 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 53 




Abutilon Savitzii 



They like a cool house best, thriving in a temperature ranging from 
40 degrees to 50 degrees, or a little above the freezing point. Win- 
tering cool and allowing to come along naturally in Spring is the 
best method of flowering. 

Propagation. Seedling Acacias are not to be recommended 
for small flowering plants, on account of their lanky growth. Not 
only are plants from cuttings most floriferous, but they are easier 
trained to any desired shape. They should be taken from the half- 
ripened shoots during the month of June. A peaty soil mixed with 
half sand should be used, as the roots will take nourishment from 
it immediately after they are formed. Make the cuttings with a 
sharp knife and take off the leaves from the part which is to go in 
the soil with a small pair of sharp scissors. The pots in which the 
cuttings are rooted should be prepared carefully — rough crocks in 
the bottom and finer above, until they are filled to within 2 inches 
of the rim. The remaining space should be filled with finely sifted 
peat and sand in equal parts topped off with pure sand. Dibble in 



54 



PLANT CULTURE 




< 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 55 

the cuttings to the depth of about an inch, but do not crowd. They 
must be kept ''close" during the operation of rooting, and as cool 
as possible. The pots, which may be plunged in sand, should be 
covered with a movable glass structure. A good plan is to have 
two sets of those hand-light or bell-glasses, and instead of wiping 
the moisture from them daily, remove the wet ones and sHp over 
them those which are dry. After the first watering, the cuttings will 
take but Httle more during the process of rooting; when they do 
require it the foHage should be allowed to dry before putting back 
the covers. 

ACALYPHA. (For further discussion of Acalypha, see p. 280.)! 

Culture. Large plants in pots are speedily produced by using 
a goodly quantity of bonemeal in the soil. Grow in a high tem- 
perature. If tall plants are wanted, keep nipping out the flower 
spikes as they appear in the axils of the leaves. When the plant 
reaches the desired height nip out the ends of the shoots; this will 
cause branching. Mealy bugs are troublesome on Acalyphas 

ACANTHOPHGENIX. A. crinita is one of the rarer Palms 
which will never be very common, because it is a slow-growing 
species and very sensitive to low temperatures. 

Propagation. It is raised from seeds secured from European 
seedsmen. In a comparatively young stage it is quite attractive. 

AGAVE (Century Plant). The Agaves are stiff and coarse 
plants, standing a great deal of ill-treatment. A. americana and its 
variegated forms, together with several other more or less orna- 
mental species, are much cultivated in pots and tubs. A. Victor ia 
RegincB is a dwarf species of small size and one of the prettiest. 

Culture. They grow best in rather poor but well-drained 
soil. The flowering period of adult specimens is hastened by keep- 
ing them in a pot-bound state. On the other hand, growth of foli- 
age is accelerated by giving abundant root room. 

Propagation. The larger sorts are increased by seeds and 
offsets, but A. VictoricB is only propagated by seeds. 

ACOCANTHERA (Toxicophlaea). A. spectahilis is a Spring 
blooming stove shrub. Flowers are pure white, borne in dense 
clusters. 

Culture. Should be treated similarly to the Ixoras, 
Propagation. By cuttings early in the Spring. 



56 PLANT CULTURE 

ALOCASL\. Although among the most ornamental of stove 
plants, none of them can be put to much use outside of these 
structures. Out of a large number of species and forms, A. metallica, 
A. Regina (Sedenii) A. Thibanliana, A. Sander iana and ^. macrorhiza 
variegata are well known. 

Culture. They do best in good fibrous loam to which one-third 
of well-rotted cow manure or pulverized sheep manure has been 
added. Give the pots good drainage and cone up 2 or 3 inches above 
the rim. The plants must be shaded from the sun at all times, and 
grown in a minimum temperature of 60 degrees. When active growth 
starts in March give a temperature of 70 degrees at night, with a 
humid atmosphere and plenty of water at the roots. 

Propagation. The two last named are increased by offsets; 
the others, by cutting up the succulent stems of old plants. Roll 
the pieces of stem in powdered charcoal and allow them to dry be- 
fore placing in damp moss, in a propagating frame, which should 
have a temperature of 80 degrees. After sprouting put them in a 
potting mixture similar to that given for Nepenthes. 

ALOE. Although these plants are usually very coarse they are 
often popular because of their suggestion of desert conditions. 
.-1. plicatilis is commonly cultivated as a tub plant. 

Culture. The soil best suited to their culture is a sandy loam 
in which is mixed some broken bricks and some well-decayed 
manure. Give the plants perfect drainage by using a thick layer 
of broken crockery in the bottom of the pot. 

Propagation. Seeds, suckers and cuttings are all used in 
multiplying this plant. 

AMARYLLIS (See Bulbous Plants). 

ANANAS (Pineapple). Ananas sativiis war. variegata is one of 
the best variegated leaved plants. 

Culture. It requires a high temperature indoors. Use a light 
material for potting, such as sphagnum moss. Fern roots and char- 
coal. The plants need little water at the roots in Winter; a slight 
syringing of the foliage is beneficial. In a warm, sheltered place all 
of the kinds do well out of doors in Summer, where they put on 
exquisite colorings. If grown large enough the plants will fruit in 
the same way as the green-leaved forms. In fact, it is best to allow 
them to fruit as subsequently they form suckers the more readily. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 57 




ANTHiiRICUM IN 2)^-IN. POiS 



Propagation. The suckers may be rooted in sand, not too 
moist, but very warm. After being potted and growing a little they 
will stand full sunUght without injury. 

ANTHERICUM (St. Bernard's Lily). Anthericum Liliago is a 
good all-round plant for vases, bedding, or potted for window 
decoration. For the last-named purpose A. media picta is the best 
variety. 

Culture. Large clumps oiA.L. var. variegatum, which have been 
hibernating under benches, should be broken up about the end of 
January and potted in 3- and 4-inch pots. They may be placed 
under benches where the light will strike them for at least a portion 
of the day. 

Propagation. If the plants which were lifted in the Fall are 
allowed to bloom, and the flower stalks remain on the plants after- 
ward, a good opportunity to increase the stock of plants presents 
itself during February. All along the flowering stems will be found 
a crop of small rosettes of leaves which, if cut off, stems and all, 
and laid on the sand in the shaded part of a warm house, will send 
out roots in a short time. 

ANTHURIUM. The species of this genus are grown either for 
foliage or flower. None of them has handsome foHage and showy 



58 



PLANT CULTURE 




Anthurium Andr^anum 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 59 

flowers combined in the same plant. A. crystallinum, A. Veitchii 
and A. Warocqueanum are very beautiful foliage plants, but the 
flowers are inconspicuous. On the other hand A. Andrceanum, A, 
ornatum and their numerous hybrid progeny, together with A. 
Scherzerianum and varieties, have rather ordinary-looking leaves; 
but in each case the inflorescence is exceedingly attractive. The 
showy part of the inflorescence is what is termed the spathe, answer- 
ing the same purpose as calyx and corolla in other flov/ers. The 
showy-flowered species are excellent combined with Orchids. 

Culture. Their cultivation is simple where a temperature of 
65 to 85 degrees may be maintained. Shade at all times, lightest 
in Winter. The potting mixture should be rough, fibry peat, 
sphagnum, decayed cow manure and sand, except for A. Scher- 
zerianum which needs less sphagnum and more peat. Water should 
be copiously supplied in the growing season. Toward the end of 
January, with increasing sun heat, these plants will soon commence 
active growth for the season. Before this takes place they should 
be looked over for the purpose of repotting or for rooting any tall or 
straggling growths which have grown away from the sphagnum in 
the pot. In this condition the roots, which are formed at the bases 
of the leaf stems, shrivel up for want of moisture and the plant be- 
comes shy in blooming. Old plants should have the lower part of 
the stem and roots removed and sunk lower in the pot, using a 
mixture of fibrous peat, sphagnum, well decomposed cow manure, 
charcoal and sand. This treatment applies only to such kinds as 
A, Andrceanum, A. ornatum. 

Propagation. Cut off the straggly shoots and put in a mix- 
ture of sphagnum and sand in a warm part of the propagating 
bench; keep moist and roots will form in abundance in about three 
weeks, when they should be potted up in the usual way. Seedlings 
can be easily raised, sowing the seeds in the compost above men- 
tioned. 

ARALIA. Most of the greenhouse plants known under the 
name of Aralias belong botanically to the genera, Polyscias, Fatsia, 
Dizygotheca and Elceodendron. The most commonly cultivated 
species are Fatsia japonica, Dizygotheca elegantissima, D. Veitchii, 
Elceodendron Chabrieri, D. gracillima, D. leptophylla, Polyscias mon- 
strosa, P. Victories, P. plumatum, P. Giiilfoylei. 

Culture. The Aralias prefer a sandy peat for the finer rooted 
sorts and a rich compost of loam, leafmold, well decayed manure, 
charcoal and enough sand to make the soil porous should be used 



6o PLANT CULTURE 

for the stronger rooted sorts. Shade at all times and maintain a 
temperature of from 50 to 60 degrees. 

Propagation. D. Veitchii is readily rooted if the cuttings are 
taken at the proper time; that is, when young shoots develop on a 
cut-back plant. They are removed with a heel and kept in a close, 
warm propagating frame. But this is a slower method than grafting 
if the necessary stocks are at hand. P. Guilfoylei, or any of the 
woody species of Polyscias make good enough stock on which to work 
them. Select long, wiry wood for cions — that which is not too thick 
and well ripened. In cutting cions allow a piece of the stem to each 
leaf. Cut the stock clear across and down to as near the soil as 
possible; make an incision in it downward for three-quarters of an 
inch. Make the wood of the cion wedge-shaped to fit the incision, 
and tie to keep in position till united, during which process they 
should be kept in a rather warm, humid atmosphere — a moderately 
warm propagating frame will answer. The leaves of the cions, if too 
large, should be shortened back a little. March is the best month 
in which to perform the operation. Aralia Chabrieri, so called, 
strikes so readily from cuttings put in- a cool house that there is no 
necessity for grafting them. 

Fatsia japonica is conceded to be one of the best plants for 
decorative purposes, but like several other worthy plants it is diffi- 
cult to work up a stock readily, possibly because methods of propa- 
gation are not evident. It is rather backward in producing seeds 
in this country, although moderately large plants flower freely 
enough. From cuttings, by topping old plants, it is rather slow. 
It is said to vegetate from pieces of the roots. Seeds are obtainable 
from some of the European firms at reasonable prices. During 
March or April the seeds are available and should be sown imme- 
diately, as they do not retain their vitality for any great length of 
time. Firm the soil in the seed pans before sowing, and cover with 
a mixture of loam and sand; place in a temperature suitable for 
warm greenhouse plants; shade the plants from the sun. The 
seedlings, as soon as large enough to handle, should be potted off 
singly into 2-inch pots, and when in 4-inch pots they should be 
plunged outside during the Summer in a frame covered with slats, 
or with sash, tilted top and bottom alternately. When large enough 
the plants should be shifted, as they suffer from being root-bound. 
Old plants will stand considerable frost, but the young plants are 
always more tender and should on the approach of cool weather be 
given protection. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 6i 

ARAUCARIA. Most of the plants used in this country 
(principally A. excelsa) were, until recently, imported from Europe. 
This Araucaria is a native of Norfolk Island and is known as the 
Norfolk Island Pine. The best place for the plants in Summer is 
under a structure covered with slats. A. imbricata, the Monkey 
Puzzle Tree, and .1. BidwUlii are grown out of doors in Southern 
California. 

Culture. Araucarias need cool treatment; the temperature 
should not be above 60 degrees at night. Do not crowd, and give 
sufficient light, or they will become ragged. Protect in Summet 
from the sun. 

Propagation. In the propagation of the Araucaria a good plan 
is to procure seed and sow at the end of the year. The seedlings are 
not well-furnished with leaves at the base, but they make good stock 
plants. The ripened tops of the seedlings are so easy to root 
that, with ordinary care, it is almost impossible to lose a cutting. 
Moreover, the cut-back plants will immediately begin to throw up 
good leaders, which in turn are used for cuttings. In taking cuttings 
from plants which have attained considerable size, the lateral 
branches may be rooted along with the tops — not for making speci- 
men plants, because this is impossible, but for the purpose of pro- 
viding material for cuttings; for, when cut back, they will throw 
up leaders, which are as good as the best. The soil for propagating 
should be sandy, and pressed firmly about the base of the cuttings, 
which should be kept in a frame shaded from sunlight, with enough 
moisture in the atmosphere to keep them from wilting. Keep the 
temperature a little higher after the cuttings have callused. 

ARDISIA. The Red-berried Ardisia, A. crenulata, continues 
to be one of the most attractive Christmas plants. It can be recom- 
mended as a first-class window subject, owing to its apparent in- 
difference to a little cold or occasional neglect in the way of watering. 

Culture. It prefers a cool greenhouse in Winter and the pots 
should be plunged in a partially shaded place out of doors in Sum- 
mer. A good soil consists of equal parts of loam, sand and peat. 
Well decomposed manure may be added when potting large plants. 
When the plants start to flower give plenty of air and keep near the 
glass. A small amount of soot added to the water benefits the color- 
ing. 

Propagation. Seeds may be sown during the latter part of 
January. Plants over one year old are never without a crop of seed at 
any season, if they are in good health; and frequently we see them 



62 



PLANT CULTURE 




Ardisia crenulata.— (See page 61) 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 63 

with two crops at one time along with the flowers, which in a short 
period produce the third crop of berries. The old fruits have usually 
a grimy appearance from hanging so long on the bush. When there 
is any choice in the matter the oldest berries should be taken for 
sowing, as they will be the first to fall from the plant. Wash the 
pulp from around the seed and sow immediately, cover the seeds 
with a quarter of an inch of soil, firming well and giving the pots 
or boxes a position in a cool house. Keep the soil moderately 
damp, with abundance of air during mild weather. Conditions such 
as these will give the seed ample time to germinate and make plants 
in 4-inch pots by the following Fall. Cuttings root freely in sand, 
but do not make as symmetrical plants as seedHngs. When the old 
plants get leggy the tops are easily rooted by making an incision in 
the stems and tying moss around them. These tops make very fine 
dwarf specimens. 

ARTOCARPUS (The Bread Fruit). For large conservatories 
.4. mcwd is very effective, because of the large leaves having a fine 
decorative effect. 

Propagation. When the plants get to be too tall the top may 
be rooted by mossing and afterward the stem may be cut up into 
lengths and placed in sphagnum moss. Many of the buds make 
small growths which can be removed with a firm heel when a few 
inches long and rooted in sand. 

ASPARAGUS (A^sparagus Fern. Smilax). As pot plants 
there are three species of value; these are A. plumosus 7ianiis, A. 
Plumosus tenuissimiis and A. Sprengeri. 

A. plumosus is a very distinct plant from A. plumosus nanus 
and probably is a distinct species. (See Vines). A. plumosus nanus 
makes a profusion of short growths from the base, and may be kept 
in this condition by pot culture and pinching shoots that show a 
tendency to run up; for it will grow 30 feet high under proper con- 
ditions. A. plumosus is us?d in large quantities for cutting and 
when so desired must be given the proper culture. A. plumosus 
tenuissimus is a wiry-stemmed variety with less dense fronds 
than nanus. 

A. Sprengeri differs considerably from A. plumosus, the cladodes 
being longer, wider and flat and less numerous. It makes a very 
ornamental pot plant when covered with its bright red berries. It is 
grown very much for cutting. 

A . asparagoides (Smilax) is a climber with cladodes about i inch long 
and quite wide. It is widely grown by florists for use in decorations. 



64 PLANT CULTURE 

Culture. A. plumosus is planted in beds when sprays and 
strings are desired. If grown for trails they must be trained on 
strings. Their general culture is easy. A. 5/>re«geri does best where 
its branches are allowed to hang down instead of being planted in 
a bed like the better known A. plumosus nanus. The ideal method 
is to have the plants in large wire baskets suspended from the roof 
of a house; and where the plants underneath don't suffer from drip 
or shade this system will work all right. Where a large supply of 
this green is wanted the north wall of a house may be used economi- 
cally by erecting trough-like receptacles running the entire length 
of the house. The top one may be as near the glass as possible, the 
next in front 6 or 8 inches lower down, and so on, giving enough 
room to prevent crowding of the branches. 

A. asparagoides is grown in beds and trained on silkaline for 
long strings. 

Propagation. Dividing starved plants is the readiest method 
of increasing A. plumosus nanus. Wash out the roots and place 
the divisions in moderately wet sand, to make a few roots before 
potting. Seed of .4. plumosu? nanus, or that which is offered under 
the name oi A. p. nanus, is not always to be depended upon, unless 
the seed is procured from a reliable source or home grown, and known 
to be true to name. The reason for this is that A. pfumos7is is the 
kind which fruits most freely, and some not knowing the difference 
between the two sorts and others knowing, but also appreciating 
the fact that A. p. nanus is the better of the two, and that seed 
going under the name of the latter is sure to command the best 
prices. Germination is very irregular with seed sown in some soils. 
The best medium is rough grained sand that does not pack. Cover 
to the depth of half an inch. 

A. plumosus tenidssimus is of a lighter green than A. plumosus 
and A. p. nanus. If cuttings of the ripe branches are put in bottom 
heat they will root freely. In small pots the plants are very orna- 
mental and useful for associating with ferns and other plants in fill- 
ing pans. This Asparagus used to be trained on strings, but has 
been superseded for this purpose by A. p. nanus. 

In increasing A . Sprengeri, old plants may be divided for plant- 
ing out, and for small specimens in pots, which are useful in asso- 
ciating with Ferns. Seedlings are easily raised. The plants ripen 
seed in mid-Winter. If cleaned and sown as soon as ripe the seeds 
germinate quickly. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 65 

A. asparagoides is raised from seed sown in February. They 
are potted in 2-inch pots when 2 or 3 inches high, and in May the 
plants are shifted to 3-inch pots. 

ASPIDISTRA. The Aspidistra will stand more neglect than"^ 
any other house plant and always Hves in hot and draughty hotels 
and public buildings. A. liirida and A. lurida variegata are the ones 
most commonly grown. It is said that A. lurida is hardy as far 
north as Philadelphia. 

Culture. Because the plants will stand almost any sort of 
conditions their culture is very simple. If the foliage is wanted for 
cutting, they may be planted under the benches in waste spaces. 
A poor soil is needed for the variegated variety or the variegation 
will disappear. 

Propagation. The usual way to increase the stock of these 
very valuable decorative plants is to divide up large specimens into 
small pieces, potting and keeping close until they make fresh roots. 
A method requiring a Httle more work, certainly, but giving salable 
plants in a shorter period, and more of them, as every small piece 
windrow, is to shake the old plants out, disentangle the rhizomes 
as carefully as possible, and wash clean, saving every little piece 
that is likely to grow. Cut the rhizomes into small pieces, with 
roots attached, and put in the sand bed to make fresh roots; sub- , 
sequently put in small pots and keep close for a few days. 

ASTILBE, Forcing, or Florists' Spiraea. Although the 
florist grows principally the forms of Astilbe japonica, the white, 
and A. Davidii, the pink, there are a great number of Spiraeas 
which are very beautiful, namely: A. Lemoinei, which has 
white petals and pink stamens; A. Thunbergii, the flowers of 
which are white but change to pink and are borne on red stems; 
A. japonica Gladstone, the common white flowering sort; A. rosea 
var. Queen Alexandra, a superb deep pink variety, excellent for 
Spring forcing, but seldom early enough for Easter; and A. rosea 
var. Peach Blossom, bearing lighter pink flowers than Queen 
Alexandra. The Astilbes furnish an excellent large plant for small 
money and are usually sold as pot plants, but the sprays may also 
be cut. Astilbes are hardy and are useful as border plants, but in 
order to be grown successfully they must have an abundance of 
water. 

Culture. Stock is usually received in Midwinter and may be 
left in the case for a week out of doors in order to be sure it has 
frozen. Before potting soak the clumps in a tub of water in order 



66 



PLANT CULTURE 




C^YPRIPEDIUM ACAULE 

This is one of the daintiest light pink hardy Lady SHppcr Orchids.— Sec page io8. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 67 

to get them thoroughly moistened. Pot in 6-inch pots, if possible, 
for the roots are large. If huge specimens arc preferred, three clumps 
should be placed in 8- or lo-inch pots. Place them deep in the pot. 
Set the pots in the Violet house, or in some cool place where they 
may root thoroughly. The cooler they can be forced the better 
spikes of bloom are produced. It takes ten to fifteen weeks to get 
the plants into bloom. The pink sorts, like Queen Alexandra, are 
the slower ones. In February, when growth starts, the plants are 
placed in a house in which a temperature of about 55 degrees is 
maintained; those for Easter can be placed in a warmer house, while 
those for later Spring flowering may be left in the cool house. Be- 
cause of the great mass of roots which must be crammed into the 
pots, little space is left for soil and consequently the plants will dry 
out rapidly. They may require watering twice a day. When only 
a few are grown saucers filled with water may be used beneath the 
pots. The plants are susceptible to fumigation which causes the 
tip of the leaves to turn brown if they are not thoroughly matured. 
Propagation. Astilbes may be propagated by seeds or divi- 
sion. The seeds are sown in the Spring, using flats in the green- 
house. They may be planted in the open ground when large enough 
and will bloom the second year. By division the plants are readily 
multiplied. Forced plants may be divided and set in the open 
ground. The florist prefers to import his stock rather than propa- 
gate it. 

ATTALEA. The Attaleas, especially A. Cohune and A. excelsa, 
are noble cut-leaved Palms. They are very attractive even in the 
comparatively small stage, and for large, roomy structures they 
are very graceful. They should not be used for house decoration, 
as they are rather costly and in a young state make slow growth. 
When they are 20 or 30 years old, however, they are very ornamental 
subjects for tall structures. The seeds are about 2 inches in length 
and are now being put on the market as bowls for tobacco pipes, a 
purpose for which they are splendidly adapted. An acquaintance 
has been using one of these bowls for about 15 years and the finest 
meerschaum cannot begin to compare with it. (See also Palms J 

AUCUBA (Gold Dust Tree). The many beautiful forms of 
Aucubajaponica thrive splendidly out of doors in Washington, with 
little or no attention beyond a layer of dead leaves on the surface 
of the soil occasionally. This mulch may be continued with ad- 
vantage even during the Summer months. Some of the larger leaved 
varieties are beautifully variegated. The sexes are on separate 



68 PLANT CULTURE 

plants and flower profusely. When there is a plentiful supply of 
their gorgeously colored fruit the plants present a splendid ap- 
pearance. If we would have the maximum number of berries it is 
the usual practice to hand pollinate the seed bearing flowers. 

Culture. They grow in cool houses, under conditions suitable 
for Azaleas. They must be hand fertilized in order to fruit. Pot in 
a sandy loam with good drainage and give plenty of water during 
growing period. 

Propagation. The Aucuba and its varieties are among the 
easiest things to propagate from cuttings; goodly-sized pieces even 
6 inches in length may be rooted in Autumn in a cool propagating 
house; the new roots are very large, therefore they should be put 
in at least 4-inch pots before they get too lengthy. 

AZALEA, Forcing. Azalea indica is a native of parts of China, 
and is the most commonly used by the retail florists and for green- 
house decoration. Thousands of plants were imported from Belgium 
and Holland annually before the Federal quarantine, coming to this 
country well packed in crates in the Fall of the year. The varieties 
noted for their earliness, among which are Vervaeneana, Simon 
Mardner, Madame Petrick, Marie Antoinette and Deutsche Perle, 
can be brought into flower for Christmas. 

Culture. After they are unpacked from the cases in which 
they were shipped they may be potted up at once and be placed in 
a frame or greenhouse in a temperature of 50 degrees, and syringed 
with cool water once or twice a day according to the weather. If 
the weather is clear and sunny, and not cold, several times each 
day will not hurt them, but if, on the other hand, it is dull and moist, 
once or twice a day would be quite sufficient. To hasten their de- 
velopment a warm temperature can afterward be given. It takes 
from six to eight weeks as a rule, at a temperature of 60 degrees, to 
bring Azaleas into flower. Azalea indica is obtainable as a decora- 
tive plant from Christmas until after Easter, a period of from 14 to 
16 weeks, and those plants not required for Christmas or New 
Year can be grown on under cool treatment (50 degrees) and be 
allowed to flower naturally. 

Speeding up Temperature. Of course, if at any time growth 
has to be hastened, the plants can be transferred to a warm house; 
they will bear quite a warm temperature. If forcing must be re- 
sorted to, it should be remembered that such plants do not make 
the best subjects for dwelHng rooms, as they are less resistive of 
the conditions there. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 69 

Removing Buds. Plants so grown will generally start growth 
buds from the base of the flower bud, or by the side of it, and as 
this might result in the pushing off or dropping of the flower, these 
growth buds should be removed. Where this is done, however, 
there can be no growth in that direction the same year. 

Watering. The plants require to be well watered and kept 
free of insect pests, which is a simple enough matter. The rule in 
watering should be to keep the soil just moist, without being wet. 
The weight of the pot will tell an experienced grower whether the 
plant requires watering, or if he is undecided, a sharp tap with a 
stick or with the knuckles will satisfy him. A dry ball causes the 
pot to ring clear, while a plant not in need of water will give a dull 
sound. 

After Flowering, or on removal from the dwelling house, pick 
off all the flower buds and seed pods, if such are forming, and as 
plants from imported stock will not require to be repotted at once, 
they can be taken out of doors, provided they have been hardened 
off, and arranged alongside a wall or hedge in a moderately shel- 
tered, shaded position. Some growers plunge the pots to their rims 
in the soil, or in sifted ashes throughout the Summer. The plants 
must be kept well supplied with water and sprayed or syringed 
as frequently as possible, as otherwise they are apt to become 
subject to thrips and other insect pests. Growth will continue, 
and the new flower buds will develop; consequently at this period 
watering with liquid manure may be required. In the Autumn, 
after the growth has finished and has ripened, lift the plants from 
their Summer quarters and transfer them to the protection of a 
greenhouse, or smaller structure, where frost can be kept 
out. 

The Winter and Spring treatment would be as already described, 
only that this time regular feeding with liquid manure would have 
to be given, and in the Spring, after flowering, the plants would 
have to be repotted, not necessarily in larger pots, but in pots at 
least the same size, the old soil being shaken out, and some of the 
roots trimmed off, so that new compost could be employed. This 
should consist of leafmold and fibrous peat in equal parts, to one 
part of good turfy loam. Perfect drainage must be accorded. 

The same procedure applies to the Ghent Azaleas — A. mollis 
and A. sinensis, which are hybrids between some of our American 
Azaleas and the Caucasian yellow-flowered A. flavum. A few of 
them are quite hardy, but most of the large flowered varieties are 
not. 



70 PLANT CULTURE 

As plants for dwelling rooms the Azaleas last well and are highly 
decorative and desirable. Give them sufficient water, keep them 
well into the daylight by having them near the window, and if 
possible the atmosphere should not be warm and dry. It is the 
hot and dry condition of dwelling rooms that causes the flowers 
to fade quickly. 

Propagation. Most of the Azalea stock previous to quaran- 
tine 37 was imported, but of late years some progress has been 
made in this country in propagating on a commercial scale. It is 
propagated by grafting, layers and cuttings. 

BEGONIA. This genus is a deservedly popular one, as it 
possesses numerous species and varieties, useful either as greenhouse, 
window or bedding plants. (For sorts used as bedding plants, see 
pp. 177 and 282). Nearly all of them will grow in a wide range of 
soils. Two parts loam and a third of equal parts decayed cow 
manure and sand will be found to answer the requirements of most 
of them. 

The Tuberous-Rooted Section behave grandly in some 
parts of the country when planted out. They should be planted in 
the shade and given a soil rich in leafmold. In the warmer locaUties 
they do not thrive. The tubers are wintered much in the same 
way as those of Caladiums or Gloxinias. Young plants are raised 
from S3ed in Spring, but they bloom late. They are also excellent 
for Summer decoration of the conservatory. 

Fibrous-rooted Sorts. The fibrous-rooted sorts require plenty 
of light, fresh air and good soil consisting of three parts of loam, 
one part well-decayed manure and one part sand. Examples of 
fibrous-rooted Begonias are B. semperflorens, B. fuchsioides, B. in- 
carnata, B. foliosa, B. albo-picta, B. pcltafa, B. Scharffiana, B. Du- 
chartrei, B. Haageana, B. metaUica, B. sangiiinea, B. nitida, B. 
coccinea, B. aygenteo-guttata, B. maculata, B. Thurstonii, B. phyllo- 
maniaca and^. President Carnot. Cuttings are taken of these sorts 
in the Spring for obtaining good plants for Winter bloom. 

Rhizomatous Sorts, Includes Rex. Most of the rhizomatous 
sorts are grown for their exquisite foliage. Their requirements are 
much the same as for the fibrous-rooted kinds. The following species 
are commonly seen: B. Rex, B. speculala, B. goegoensis, B. ricinj/olia, 
B. heraclelfolia, B. Feastii, B. manicata. 

Rex Begonias, Leaf Cuttings of. After the rush of propa- 
gating the soft- wooded plants in the Fall the cuttings of the Rex 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 



71 



Begonias may be put in the sand bed. Select the mature leaves of 
those plants which are growing in a rather cool house. The pieces 
for cuttings will give good results if they be cut in a triangular 
shape, 3 inches each way. The part to be inserted in the sand 
should end with one of the thick ribs or veins which are prominent 
on the undersides of the leaves. From a medium-sized leaf eight 




Rooted Cutting o? Rex Begonia 



or ten cuttings can be got. Put them in the sand to the depth of 
about an inch and maintain a moderately humid atmosphere to 
prevent wilting. Place in thumb pots as soon as the leaves show 
above the sand. The old leaves are sometimes used entire, first by 
giving a few cuts across the principal ribs, then placing them fiat on 
damp sand or moss. The other method is to be preferred, because 
more plants can be got from one leaf. It is equally as quick and 
takes up much less room on the propagating bench. 

Gloire de Lorraine Group. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine is a 
hybrid variety resulting from a cross between B. socotrana and B. 
Dregei. B. socotrana is an annual species, Winter flowering and 
characterized by the production of small tubers. B. Dregei is a 
small-leaved, semi-tuberous sort. Gloire de Lorraine is one of the 
rinest light pink Begonias on the market. From it has been de- 
veloped several other varieties of note, namely: Glory of Cin- 
cinnati, a form with larger flowers but of the same light pink; Turn- 



72 



PLANT CULTURE 










Begonia Gloire de Lorraine 

ford Hall, a white flowering sort; Melior, large, delicate rose; Mrs. 
J. A. Peterson, a superb deep pink sort with bronze foliage. B. 
socolrana is a native of the hot, sandy island of Socotra and seems 
to transmit to the hybrids the preference for a light soil and a high 
temperature. 

Propagation. The varieties of this group may be propa- 
gated by leaf cuttings or division. Soon after January first the 
mature leaves are cut from the plants. The stems of the leaves are 
shortened a little and placed in the propagating bench. The leaf 
should not lie flat on the sand, otherwise the damping-off fungus will 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 73 

be in evidence. A bottom heat of 70 degrees is advised, and a rela- 
tively high humidity. It usually takes about a month for the cut- 
tings to root. They should not be potted until the little plants start 
from the callus. Propagated by division the plants are usually less 
bushy, but because many shoots are sent up from the roots the 
stock plants can be divided after the leaf cuttings are taken. The 
soil should consist of leafmold and fibrous loam in equal parts and 
some charcoal should be added to keep the soil sweet. Continue 
to use a loose soil during their growth. Two-inch pots will be large 
enough at first, but the plants must not be pot-bound until flower- 
ing time when the plants should be in 10- to 1 2-inch Azalea pots. They 
will enjoy a partial shading and a temperature of 60 degrees until 
they flower; then they should be kept cool, about 45 degrees to 50 
degrees. Pinch the plants to make them bushy and stake them when 
they need it. Care should be exercised in watering so that the foli- 
age is not wetted, else the leaves will drop. When coming into bud, 
watering with liquid manure will be of value. 

Winter Flowering Begonias. The Winter flowering Bego- 
nias have resulted from a cross between^, socotrana x the tuberous- 
rooted sorts. They are strong growers and more robust than the 
Lorraine group; they have large flowers and are of easy culture. 

Culture. The proper soil is one composed of half loam and 
half leafmold and a sprinkling of sand. When potting the bulbs 
just cover them with soil, but do not press the soil over them firmly. 
Give them a temperature of 60 degrees to start and keep them 
shaded. At the flowering time the temperature may run to 65 de- 
grees; this will be any time during September to January. After 
flowering, reduce the temperature again and gradually withhold 
water, remembering to continue to give enough water so that they 
retain their foliage. The plants will naturally have a bad appear- 
ance from March to May. They must not be perfectly dry as is 
proper for the tuberous sorts. 

Propagation. As the flowers are sterile, they will produce no 
seeds. Cuttings are taken in April and rooted in pots, placing 
three or four in each pot. When rooted, pot them singly. Both 
the cuttings and the newly rooted plants should be placed in a 
frame of the propagating house. 

BOUGAINVILLEA (See page 365). 

BOUVARDIA. A much grown Winter flowering plant some 
years ago which is again coming into popularity. Pink, white and 
red are the prevailing colors; single and double varieties are cata- 



74 



PLANT CULTURE 




Begonia Mrs. J. A. Peterson 

This Begonia is of the Lorraine type hut has glossy bronze leaves.— See page 72. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 75 

logued; among the latter there are Hogarth, a red; Humboldtii, a 
white; Pres. Garfield, a pink. 

Culture. To make bushy plants the leading shoots should be 
pinched repeatedly. The time of flowering can be regulated by the 
time of pinching back. About the middle of September, or earlier, 
according to location, the plants are Hfted with balls of earth at- 
tached, and either planted on benches or put in pots. Keep the 
atmosphere moist and close for the first few days, and the plants 
shaded from the sun. A minimum temperature of 55 degrees is 
necessary for perfect development. 

Propagation. Young plants are raised early in Spring, from 
small pieces of the roots, placed in flats of sand and kept in a warm 
house. For the first week or two cover the surface of the sand with 
damp sphagnum moss; this will encourage the formation of buds 
on the roots. When the growths are of sufficient size, put in 2-inch 
pots, shifting into 3-inch pots, and plant outside during the latter 
part of May. 

BROWALLIA. A blue-flowered annual which is very useful 
for pot culture in the greenhouse as well as for blooming in the 
border. The commonest species are B. speciosa, a large flowering 
sort; J5. demissa {B. elata), which is usually smaller flowering. Blue 
and white may be obtained. 

Culture. Place near glass and pinch back the plants frequently 
to produce an abundance of bloom. 

Propagation. For indoor culture, seeds should be sown the 
latter part of August; a few in a 4-inch pot. Discard the weakest 
seedHngs, leaving three or four in a pot, and shift into 6-inch pots 
to bloom. In the garden the seeds are sown thinly in the Spring 
when danger of frost is passed. 

BRUNFELSIA. About half a dozen species are common in 
cultivation. Out of this number there are at least two well worthy 
of attention as pot plants — B. {Franciscea) latifolia and B. eximia. 
The former is very free in producing flowers, and is one of the best 
plants to put out in the permanent bed of a warm conservatory. 
The plant flowers during the late Winter months from the wood 
made the previous Summer. On first expanding, the flowers are 
light purple, changing as they grow older to pure white. 

Culture. These plants should be grown indoors all the year 
round. Winter is their resting period, and during that time they 
should be watered but sparingly. The soil should be of fibry loam, 



76 PLANT CULTURE 

sand and lime rubble; a small quantity of leaf mold may be added. 
Night temperature, 50 degrees. 

Propagation. Old plants sucker freely, and if severed an inch 
or so beneath the surface of the ground and put in the propagating 
bed, they will quickly form new roots and develop into specimens 
large enough for 5-inch pots within a year. In rooting any of the 
kinds, take very large pieces; dust the cut part with powdered 
charcoal; allow it to dry, then put in a pot of dry sand and keep 
dry till rooted. 

BRYOPHYLLUM. A quite attractive plant when in flower. 
It is commonly known as the Chinese Lantern Plant. B. pinnatum 
and B. crenata are the species commonly grown but are not of suffi- 
cient ornamental value to be grown in quantity. 

Culture. They are quite easy of culture. Give plenty of 
light, heat and moisture. Use a loose, rich soil with plenty of 
dramage. 

Propagation. Plants may be grown from seed or cuttings, 
but the simplest method is to place a full grown leaf on moist sand. 
In a short time small plants will grow from the notches of the leaves. 

CACTUS. This name is applied to all the members of the 
family. Formerly it was the adopted generic name of a large num- 
ber of plants which are now divided into several genera. Quite a 
number are hardy in the Middle Atlantic States; among these are 
Opuntia arborescens, 0. Rafinesquii, O. vulgaris, O. missoiiriensis, 
and one named 0. phoeacantha. Some of the gaudy-flowered green- 
house kinds, such as Cereus flageliformiSf C. speciosissimus, 
and the much admired night bloomers Selenkereus (C.) 
grandiflorus and S. (C.) Macdonaldm, when in good condition, so 
far as the drainage and soil in the pot are concerned, may be plunged 
in a sunny spot out of doors, where they will make growth much 
superior to that attained in the greenhouse. If the plants are in 
good health wet seasons will do them no harm. 

Culture. Cacti prefer a cool soil and the air overhead warm; 
they thrive best when planted in the open ground of the green- 
house. Never place on benches over heating pipes where the soil 
dries out. Supply sufficient water to keep the soil moist. Give good 
drainage, and a small amount of lime should be added to keep the 
soil from souring. An open, porous, sandy soil is required. 

Propagation. Two of the methods of increasing the stock are 
by seeds and grafting. In the former method use a soil of equal 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 77 

parts of well-deca3'^ed sod and pure sand; it should not be rich in 
humus. Enlarge the hole in the bottom of a 4-inch pot which has 
been well sterilized and fill the pot one-fourth full of finely broken 
pots. Sow the seeds on the lightly pressed soil and cover with a 
very thin layer of soil with a thin layer of gravel on top. The 
gravel keeps the soil from washing and helps to prevent it from 
drying out. The temperature should be about 70 degrees. When 
several spines have formed, transplant into flats of the same soil. 
In order to cause earlier flowering or to increase the decorative 
appearance of the trailing sorts, grafting is resorted to. The 
Epiphyllum or Christmas Cactus is usually grafted upon the upright 
growing Pereskia and Cereus. Cleft, saddle and splice grafts are 
used. The clefts in the stock are cut V-shaped, rather than 
spHt, and the cions should be trimmed wedge-shaped to fit the cleft. 
A spine from an Opuntia or a Pereskia is frequently used to prevent 
the cion from slipping on account of the sap given off by the Cactus. 
For Mamillaria, the Echinocactus, the Echinocereus and other glo- 
bose or thick sorts, the stock selected should be about the same 
diameter as the cion. Cut the surface of stock and cion perfectly 
level and fit and tie together with a cloth or soft cord. 

CALADIUM. (See Bulbous Plants). 

CALANTHE. This is not an epiphj^te, but a terrestrial Orchid 
growing in soil. It responds very readily to good treatment. 
As the demand for Orchid flowers is on the increase this must 
eventually become a popular genus. C. Veitchii is the best species; 
it is a Winter bloomer and has rose-colored flowers. 

Culture. Loam, peat, sphagnum and well-decayed cow manure 
with a little sand added, will form a good mixture. Good drainage 
is necessary, as the plants, while growing, need heavy waterings. 
During the growing season a high temperature is necessary, lower- 
ing it and curtailing the supply of water when growth is completed. 
When done blooming either shake the plants from the soil and 
stand them in empty pots, or withold water from the roots. They 
should be started in March. Careful watering is necessary at 
first. 

Propagation. They are increased by separation of the bulbs 
at the time of repotting. This is one of the few species which allow 
being propagated freely. 

CALATHEA. Closely resembling and often known as Maranta. 
They are grown solely for their ornamental foliage, nearly all of the 
species having beautiful markings. It is doubtful if any other 



78 



PLANT CULTURE 




GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 79 

genus shows greater variation in this respect. Some of the best 
known stove kinds are as follows: C. Baraguini, C. bella, C. 
fascinalor, C. Lindeniana, C. Makoyana, C. vittata var. albo- 
lineata C. roseo-picta, C. zehrina, and C. V eitchiana. Those which 
may be grown cooler are: C. Pavonii (iubispatha), a species which 
loses its leaves and goes to rest for the Winter; C. illustrisy C. 
Lietzei and C. pulchella. The latter resembles C. zehrina in the upper 
portions of the leaves, but the inferior margins are almost green. 

Culture. Most of the kinds are stove plants, growing in shade 
all the year round, with a minimum temperature of 60 degrees. 
They need an abundance of water at all times. In Winter, when 
the benches are apt to get dry quickly, the pots should stand on a 
layer of sphagnum moss. Some of the species will succeed in a 
temperate house, and a few of the stove kinds may be subjected to a 
lower temperature, without injury, after they have made their 
growth. None of the species should be allowed to flower, as this only 
weakens the plants and seed is not necessary, as they all divide very 
freely. During the growing season, if drained thoroughly, they can 
hardly be overwatered. 

Propagation. Calatheas, which are freshly divided, should 
not be potted in fresh soil until new roots have been formed. This 
condition may be brought in the following manner: Knock the 
plants out of the pots before growth commences; wash the soil 
from among the roots; prune out those not wanted, and divide into 
clumps, not too small, about large enough to go into a 5 -inch pot, and 
put in the propagating bed. Let the air be close and moist, and the 
glass shaded. When a few fresh roots have been formed they take 
very quickly with the soil after potting. 

CALCEOLARIA (Knitting Bag Plant). The Calceolaria, both 
shrubby and herbaceous, is as well-known in western Europe as the 
Zonal Pelargonium in America. The shrubby kinds are there much 
used in bedding, producing very gaudy effects. They delight in a 
cool, moist atmosphere, and our hot Summers make short work of 
them. The herbaceous hybrids derived mainly from C. crenatijlora 
and C. arachnoidea, are raised from seeds sown about the month of 
August. The seeds are very small and should be sown on the sur- 
face of the soil and pressed down, covering with glass until the seed 
leaves can be seen. At all times the plants require a cool, airy spot 
when in the greenhouse. From the seedling stage until the plants 
are likely to get hurt by frost they should be kept in a frame. Green- 
fly is their greatest insect enemy, and must be prevented from gain- 



8o PLANT CULTURE 

ing a foothold on them by fumigation. Several of the species of 
Calceolaria are much easier to grow than the hybrids, and some of 
them are very ornamental. C. scabioscefolia, a sort with compound 
leaves, may be flowered a few weeks from the seedling stage by 
keeping the plants in small pots. It may, however, be grown 3 feet 
high by shifting when necessary. Seeds may be sown from August to 
January. The soil should be of an open nature; cow manure and 
leafmold should form one-fourth of the mixture. 

CALLISTEMON (Bottle Brush). The Callistemons, especially 
C. lanceolatus, C. rigidiis, C. speciosus, make interesting flowering 
plants in early Spring for a cool conservatory. 

Culture. Thej' may be treated much in the same way as 
Acacias. 

Propagation. Young plants are gotten up from seed, but they 
take a longer time to flower than when raised from cuttings: neither 
are they so free blooming. 

CAMELLIA. Two species, C. japonica and C. Sasanqiia, are 
grown and some old plants of these relics of the past will occasion- 
ally be found in old-established greenhouses. They are kept, es- 
pecially the white varieties, solely for the flowers, which are used in 
making up designs. In private and public gardens we see them 
oftener, and in such places they should be more grown, as they are 
capable of making exceedingly attractive displays during the Win- 
ter months. 

Culture. Potting is best done after the flowers fall. Loam 
two parts, peat or leafmold one part, and about one-sixth of the 
whole, sand, will make a good potting compost. They thrive best 
with limited root room. 

Propagation. The varieties are perpetuated by cuttings of 
the ripe growths in late Summer, or by grafting before the growth 
starts, using stocks of strong-growing kinds, raised from cuttings. 

CANNAS FOR WINTER BLOOMING. During Winter 
these plants respond very readily when anything like fair treatment 
is given, in the production of large heads of bloom. In fact, in a 
warm, sunny house, many of the kinds are equally as fine as they 
are in Summer, and some of them last longer in bloom, owing to 
the conditions for the production of good flowers being more under 
control. The orchid-flowered Cannas, that is, those having C 
flaccida blood in them, are not well suited for outdoor work, as 
their flowers are too soft to withstand the glare of the hot sun; but 
for pot plants in Winter they are useful. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS Si 

Culture. The plants may be started in small pots, dvinff 
larger ones as growth is made. They are gross fee(i?,rs, and will 
take rich soil supplemented by occasional waterings Vith liquid 
manure. Pick the flowers as soon as they wilt to prevent the form- 
ing of seeds. \ 

Propagation. Because of the hardness of the seed, -special 
precautions must be taken or they will germinate slowly or i^f- ^^ 
all. Nick or cut the seeds and soak in warm water for one or ^q 
days. Plant in sand to the depth of about one inch and give phhy 
of bottom heat. This method is used in raising new varieties. /\ 
more common method is to divide the rhizomes. Every bud wiL 
make a plant, but larger ones may be obtained by leaving several 
buds together. 

CARICA (Papaya). Small trees for pot culture, unbranched. 
The commonest species, Carica papaya, has leaves resembling those 
of the edible Fig. They usually produce fruit nicely indoors, 
and if one can become fond of their peculiar flavor, they are very 
good as an aid to digestion, because they contain papain. 

Culture. A well-drained, rich loam should be used for potting; 
give good drainage. 

Propagation. Because cuttings are difficult to obtain the 
plants are grown from seed, sown in small pots placed in the shade 
until the seedlings have started. When the third leaf appears the 
plants should be repotted. Good, edible varieties are often grafted 
upon seedlings. 

CARLUDOVICA. About six species are in common cultiva- 
tion. They are usually taken for Palms , so closely do they resemble 
some kinds in the foliage; but they are not even related. The one 
most commonly grown, and perhaps the most useful for the florist, 
is named C. palmata; in leaf somewhat resembling a Livistona. 
The plants are useful for planting outside in shaded places in Sum- 
mer, and if slightly hardened off they may be used in decorating. 
All the kinds are stove plants. The leaves of this plant are often 
used in making Panama hats. 

Culture. Same as for Palms. 

Propagation. From the seedling stage they develop rapidly 
into specimen plants. Old plants flower freely. The seeds are small 
and thin, about the size of those of Mignonette. Wash carefully 
from the surrounding pulp and sow in a box of finely chopped 
sphagnum. They germinate in three weeks. Let them grow in 



82 



PLANT CULTURE 




GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 83 

this until large enough to put three around the edge of a 3-inch 
pot; from these shift into 5-inch pots. 

CARNATION. Dianthus Caryophyllus is the species from 
which the Carnation of today has sprung. Variation in the flow- 
ers, the result of continuous cultivation under artificial and highly 
favorable circumstances, produced, in the first place, well marked 
varieties; these variations were perpetuated by cuttings, and from 
them by means of cross-breeding and from sports distinct races 
have been evolved, gradually showing a wider range of color and 
habit. In America the climatic conditions are peculiarly favorable 
for the development of the flower under glass, and little by little a 
race has been obtained perfectly adapted to Winter production of 
bloom. Not many years have elapsed since the best cultivators of 
plants would have predicted a short life for the Carnation raised 
under glass, and this would probably be the case were its entire life, 
or rather the lives of several generations, spent in this way. But 
the utmost vigor is imparted to the plants shortly after the cutting 
stage is passed by their cultivation out of doors for the best part of 
the Summer. Another very favorable means, which is without doubt 
highly instrumental in maintaining and strengthening the vigor of 
the race, is the raising of new varieties from seed. The development 
of the wonderful blooms of today, represented in such varieties as 
Winsor, Beacon, White Perfection, the forms of Enchantress and 
others too numerous to mention, dates back only a very few years 
when the blooms were of very ordinary dimensions, stems weak and 
calyx often imperfect. Nearly every grower has been more or less 
engaged in raising new forms by crossing varieties. The work along 
this line presents no serious difficulties and while hundreds of 
thousands of seedHngs have been rejected, numerous meritorious 
new ones come into prominence. 

Varieties. The best varieties to grow in any one place cannot 
be pointed out except by experiment, as there is no variety which 
does equally well in all soils. When once the best sorts for any 
particular soil are selected they should not be discarded until new 
and improved or other kinds have been tested for at least a season. 

Culture 

Planting in the Field. In the locahty of Washington the plants 
are safe out in the field by the end of March, but cHmatic conditions are 
the only safe guide for different localities. The ground is previously 
prepared by manuring, plowing and harrowing, and the plants set 



84 PLANT CULTURi: 

out 15 inches apart each way, or 15 inches apart and 3 feet between 
the rows, according to the method of cultivating. Let the plants 
be in the ground some time before getting their first pinching. 
Cultivating must be assiduously practiced during their stay in the 
field. It serves three purposes: Keeps the roots cool, prevents loss 
of water by evaporation, and discourages the growth of weeds. 
Flower shoots are nipped out as soon as they appear until the plants 
have made sufficient growth, or a short time before they are re- 
moved to their flowering quarters. 

Lifting and Planting. This is done at different seasons, some- 
times early, but usually in September. In some soils it is difficult 
to lift with a ball; in others, easy. Some growers shake the soil 
from the roots, no matter in what soil plants have been grown. As 
the Carnation is rapid in forming feeding roots it is easy to under- 
stand why it is desirable to have the roots entirely in the most 
favorable soil, such as that with which the benches should be filled; 
but the safer and more logical method is to have a moderate amount 
of soil accompanying the roots from the field to the bench. When 
the plants are lifted without soil clinging to the roots they should 
be protected from the drying influence of the atmosphere as much 
as possible. As soon as lifted place them in a receptacle, from 
which they do not have to be removed until they are planted in the 
bench soil. Put the roots about the same depth in the bench as 
they were in the soil from which they were taken; make moderately 
firm; water well and shade for the first few days. Use a shade which 
is easily removed. A mixture of clay and water may be applied 
with a garden syringe; test it before applying to ascertain if it comes 
off easily, as it sometimes sticks on longer than wanted. 

Planting in the House. This is a practice which has become 
common during the last few years, that is, putting the plants into 
the greenhouse beds instead of planting out of doors. It has its 
advantages and disadvantages. In the Winter months the cut is 
much larger than that from field-grown plants housed late in the 
season, but this advantage is to a certain extent offset by having to 
discard the old plants in May or earlier to make room for the new 
ones and were all the Carnations planted after this method there 
would be no flowers during the Summer months; therefore, both 
methods will continue to have their advocates. 

Soil. This should be of a friable loam, mixed thoroughly some 
time in advance of using with one-fifth of its bulk of rotted stable 
manure. The depth of soil may be from 4 to 5 inches. The plants 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 85 




Carnation Mrs. C. W. Ward 

One of the best pink varieties ever introduced. 



86 PLANT CULTURE 

are given space according to the variety. In this connection it 
may be stated that a good place to look for the kind of flower com- 
mon 25 years ago is on a bench, the soil of which is completely hid- 
den by the plants. As much light as possible should be admitted 
to all parts of the plant, and it is as important that air should have 
free circulation among the plants. 

Supports. The different methods are getting to be about as 
numerous as the varieties of Carnations. A good circular wire 
support should be easy to apply, easily removed and stored, give 
the minimum amount of shade to the plants and be moderate in 
cost. Several of the designs on the market are satisfactory in all of 
the above particulars, excepting the cost, which, while as low as 
one could expect, is the only hindrance to their use. 

Temperature. A minimum temperature of 50 degrees, rising 
during the day to 65 degrees, will be found the proper range for the 
best results. The humidity of the atmosphere must be greatest 
immediately after the plants are benched to induce the formation 
of new feeding roots, gradually reducing it when the plants show 
signs of having become established. 

Syringing. In dull weather there is usually enough moisture 
in the atmosphere for the needs of the plants, so far as atmospheric 
conditions are concerned. In bright, sunny weather, syringing 
should, of course, be more frequently practiced. No rules can be 
laid down for this, however, as much depends upon the nature of 
the floor of the house in the quantity of moisture it gives off, together 
with the condition of the bench soil. If the atmosphere be too dry, 
combined with dryness at the roots, the foliage suffers to a certain 
extent, producing conditions favorable for the attacks of red spider, 
aphides and fungoid diseases. To strike the happy medium good 
judgment as the result of close observation will be necessary. 

Feeding. The plants by their behavior will suggest the neces- 
sity for this. When manure is given in the liquid state it should be 
weak and applied often, rather than in strong doses at long intervals. 
Top-dressing with manures and fertilizers should be made the sub- 
ject of careful experiment. It is not safe to follow given rules, as 
what may suit some soils will not act the same way w'ith others. 

Disbudding. The lateral buds should be removed as soon as 
they are large enough to be handled. If allowed to develop, they 
are simply a drain on the resources of the terminal bud; and, al- 
though they look well with the flower, still large flowers without 
them bring higher prices. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 87 

Ventilation is of primary importance at all times. Close houses 
only when the outside temperature is too low to permit of airing. 

Carnations to Follow Chrysanthemums. Where Chrysan- 
themums are grown in large numbers on benches it is sometimes 
difficult to decide what should occupy the space vacated by them. 
Carnations have been tried with successful results. Boxes wdth 
easily removed sides and ends are placed close together in the field, 
filled with suitable soil, and the plants, six or eight, according to the 
width of the bench, put out in each box. On the approach of un- 
farvorable weather the plants are given the protection of a frame 
until the indoor space is ready for them. The bottoms of the boxes 
are of stout material, and when placed side by side on the frame- 
work of the bench they may either be laid on the old bench boards 
or take their place. Soil is added after they are in position, to make 
the surface level. If necessary, rested Roses may be substituted 
for Carnations. 

Propagation 

Propagating House and Benches. The ideal propagating 
house is the north part of a span-roofed house, with a partition of 
boards, leaving a space of about 43^ feet available for bench and 
passageway. The latter need only be wide enough for one to move 
about in comfortably. The floor should be made of concrete, so 
that it can be kept scrupulously clean at all times. The length of 
the house should, of course, vary with the needs of the estabhshment. 
The bench should run close up to the side of the house and the front 
part, or that nearest the passageway, nailed up with boards, with a 
swinging door on leather hinges every few feet to increase or diminish 
the temperature of the sand by allowing heat to escape. It is a good 
plan to have one of the ends hotter than the other, not necessarily 
for Carnations, but for cuttings of other plants. Valves should be 
so arranged in the heating pipes of this part of the establishment 
that the heat may be under perfect control to suit the various uses 
to which it may be put. When a specially constructed propagating 
house is not available, a part of an ordinary growing house, prefer- 
ably the north side, should be selected for the purpose. The con- 
ditions favorable to the process of rooting are: Sufiticient humidity 
to prevent the cuttings from wilting, and protection against the 
sun's rays, which cause an evaporation of moisture from the leaves 
of the cuttings greater than can be spared, owing to the inability 
of the cutting to replace the loss quickly from the moisture in the 
sand. 



ss PLAN I' en rrisM 

Saiul. \\'I\(M\ thtMV is a rlioirc, a raduT larj;f-j^raino«l saiul ami 
owe ivcc liv>n\ all inipuritit'S should lu* srlci t(>il; IH)IM ? to .| inclu-s 
ilii'p will lu' sullivitMit . 

(^iKtitl^vS. Thrsr \\\a\ l>i- piil in ,in\ (mir ilnim^; llir \\ iiih-r 
!i\(Miths. Init l'\'l>riiai V is (ho salost timo lor (ho t>nlinaiv nop. 

rhoso lootrtl previous to (hat mondi aro ap( to put ou a spiudlin^ 
growth. Ursdiidnl root room h.isa (ouiliMU \ (»> pionuMi- h.mltaiiu^; 
ol (ho stiMii ami t\ru\ni\^s in thr loliago. autl whil(> tho Carnation is in 
roality an c\iM>jroiM\ shrub, it is a st>l( wooiKmI owe, auil should lu> 
kv\A \w a grtnving s(a(r irowx (ho ou((ii\j:: io (ho (lowering pi. int. 

V\\c luttiui^s .\\c usu.ilK' pulKd tiom (ho pi. nil . (his is Iho worst 
possihlo iuo(lu>d. hiHMUso (hi' i>\ooi-tlin,i;l\' (h"lio.i(o \ossols in (ho ini- 
inodia(o inM,i;hl>orluh>il ol" (ho hiiMk aro slrainoil ami displ.u ctl. ao- 
ioidiui!: (o (ho Irusion oxcMod in srxiMin^;. riicx sliiko .ill ii>:;h(. 
o\idonll\ Sv>. hut lhi"\ should ho sr\ orcd wilh .1 kiiili-. 

MiUiMJiil for (Uittin^s. In (his as in o(hor iua((ors, judioious 
Si"K\ lion o[ (ho lu.iloM.il (o loini luluro pi. nils will y,o a loni^ w,i\" in 
ilolri luiniui;: vNholhor thrso pi. nils will .itl.iin (ho iii.iviiuuiu sl.ili> in 
hoaUhy vi>;or. loiuhinod wi(h llowtM" proihutivi'noss. It tlois not 
tako a vol \' oxpoiiiiund (\nnationist to toll at a ^^hnuc whothor 
tho giAnvihs .110 ll.il)l)\ . as a ri>sul( ol" htang l"orit"d in (*>o hij;h and 
Innnid an .ilniosphori\ or orisp and stocky, owing to having hoon 
suhjiHd^l (o tavi>ral>K' oondi(ions. (Ira.ssv growdis a( (ho ha.so ol 
(ho plan( aro avoidt>d. as (hov show a (ondiMU\' io pi>rpo(ua(o (his 
oiMuli(ion (i> a doj;ioi' uiii.i\»>r.il>Ii> (o lloiiu-rousiu'ss. .\s (ho txli.i 
llorilorous n.ituro ol a sini;lo hraiu h oi a (100 or sluuh o.m ho pia 
po(u.i(i^l l>\' prop.ig.i(ing litun (h.i( hranoh. in liko m.innoi" (ho l»("s( 
ni.idai.d ior ou((ings is lornud ow (ho (K>woriiig hi.iiulus ol" (ho 
C'arna(ion. riu\v aro found in tho axils ol' tlu> oKlor lo.i\t>s, and 
shouKl ho (.ikiM\ whoi\ (ho\" aro lioin • \o ; iiu ln-s long. 

'rroatniciit Durin);^ Kootiii)^. Vhc Km\i-s ol iho tui tings ,\\c 
sonio(iinos shordaiod haok at tho tips. l»u( (his is inim.i(orial. and 
tho praitioo has arison prohahly through a dosiro to h.ivo tho hatrh 
UH>k nnilorni in si/.o aiul to oiot\onn/.o spaoo. Maoh out ting should 
ho dihhiod in l)\' itsoll. to insuro pialoot rooting conditions; hut bv 
making a cut in tho sind with a small, tl.il tii>wi>l. guiiloil l>v a nai 
row strip ol" wotulpl.uoil auti hold ("irmlv .ig.iiiis( (ho las( rowof cu( 
(ings Uhis procau(it>n will provoiU (ho K)osoning o\ (ho sand ni>\( 
(ho cu((ings l>\ (ho ao(ii>n ol (ho (lowih. (lu> opiaa(ion is h.is(onod. 
rho (ompiMa(uri> should ho Ironi so (o sS *logroiS a( (irs(. im riMsing 
io ()o degrees later on. Alter roi>ling his lommoui t'd oxamim* the 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 89 

cuttings S) thuL p.jtling (;r l>oxing may be completed before the 
roots get weak in tlie sand. It may safely be commenced, when the 
roots are three-quarters of an inch long, and finished before they 
are over i^ inches. After the cuttings are potted, or boxed, keep 
them shaded for a time, gradually giving them the benefit of full 
sunshine and an abundance of air. Before planting out time they 
sh<juld be removed to a cool frame. The soil may be made up of loam, 
leafmold ;iiid sand. 

CATTLE Y AS. These are the most popular Orchid flowers at 
present, owing to their large size and delicate colorings. 7'he best 
Cattleyas for general culture are: C. I'riancc, flowering January to 
March; C. SchroadcrcB, March and Aj)ril; C. Moss'un, Ajiril, May; 
C. Mcnddil, A[)ril and May; C. Wdrnrri, May and June; C. i!,i^(is, 
June and July; C. a urea, June and July; C. Gaskclliana, August and 
September; C Idhlaia, October and November; C. Percivaliana, 
December. (See page 90.) 

Culture. The Cattleya is fresh-air-loving and the temjjerature 
during the Winter should be 50 to 55 degrees at night. 'J'he plants 
are never kept dry because they are continually growing, llowering, 
or recovering from flowering. 

CENTRADENIA. Of this there are three species, combining 
handsome foliage and rather pretty flowers. C. ^rdiidij/ord has the 
largest leaves, and is the most useful for decorative work. 'J'he other 
species are C. jlorihiinda and C. rosea. 

Culture. An intermediate house suits them; they require but 
little shade. Use a soil consisting of leafmold and sand. 

Propaj^ation. Cuttings will root at any time of the year. To 
gel good growl h (jii the j)lants during Summer they should be started 
from cuttings in March. 

CENTROPOCON. C. Liu yannni is said to be a bi generic hy- 
orid. The parents are given as Ccnlropogon Jasluosus and Siplio- 
(<im/}v/iis bctuhrf alius. It is one of the very best stove or warm 
greenhouse herbaceous i)erennials. There is n:) great ditricully in 
its ( ullivalion; but it is seldom seen in (ollections. 'Mie flowers are 
rosy carmine, i)roduced in mid-Winter. 

Culture. After the blooming SL-ason is over the old j)laiils may 
be given a i)eriod of rest, and then repotted, using a light, rich mate- 
rial. 

Propagation. After blooming numerous small shoots will 
usually a[)pear along the branches; these' taken off with a heel root 



90 



PLANT CULTURE 




Cattle YA labiata. — See page 80 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 91 

with bottom heat. The young plants will thrive in heat and mois- 
ture during the first two or three months; they may afterward be 
grown in a frame. 

CESTRUM. Some of the species, especially C. corymhosum 
and C. Newelli, may be used for flowering about Christmas. 

Culture. Keep in a sunny house, or the plants are apt to 
make too much foHagc. 

Propagation. Young plants are started about the end of 
August, the wood to be taken from old specimens planted out. As 
soon as rooted put in 3-inch pots, afterward placing three together 
in a 6-inch pot to bloom. 

CHAMiT^ROPS. Resembling the Latanias, C. humilis, is one 
of the commonest and most widely cultivated Palms. Being one of 
the hardiest of all Palms, it is well suited to a house with a varying 
temperature. (See also Palms.) 

CHORIZEMA (Tango Plant). For several years an old con- 
servatory plant has been in commercial prominence. It is Chorizema 
cordatum var. splcndens. The graceful plants with Holly-like leaves 
and orange and red Pea-like flowers are most attractive. Other sorts 
are also found, namely, C. ilicijolium and C. varium. 

Culture. The plants should be shifted gradually to 5- or 6-inch 
pots, using plenty of peat. They may be placed in frames when 
the weather permits and given a little shade. Pinched frequently, 
the stock becomes branchy. Syringe often. In order to avoid 
overwatering, the pots should be filled high with soil; this will neces- 
sitate watering oftener, but it seems safer. During August or Sep- 
tember the plants will be covered with long branches and then they 
should be tied into their flowering shape. Use wires bent to a 
slightly gobular form and place in the pots. Tie the branches on 
the wire, spacing them nicely. In a short time buds will spring 
from the axils of the leaves. Staked plants are more sightly and 
take less bench room. During Autumn and early Winter the plants 
should be kept cool, 40 to 45 degrees at night. If they are a trifle 
slow they may be moved to a warmer house, but by keeping cool 
some may be so retarded that they will bloom until April. In order 
to give the plants air and space they maybe set upon inverted pots 
in the bench. The. plants are best kept from year to year by plung- 
ing in a bed of ashes during the Summer. 

Propagation. Chorizema may be propagated by seed or cut- 
tings. The cuttings root easily in the cutting bench with a tem- 



92 



PLANT CULTURE 






i^/;v^- 




Chorizema cordata splendens 



perature of 65 to 70 degrees. Some growers prefer to root them in 
pots in a mixture of sand and peat covering with a bell-jar or placing 
in a propagating case. They may be rooted in the Winter or early 
Spring. Rooted in sand they should be potted in 2-inch pots, using 
two parts of loam, two parts of peat and one of sand. Place plants 
in lieht house at temperature of 50 to 55 degrees. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. For nearly ten months out of the 
twelve Chrysanthemums are so little seen that when the flowers 
are in season they are eagerly welcomed by the flower buying public 
as a change from the blossoms of Spring and Summer. There is a 
gradual change in interest from the stiff and artificial looking flower, 
which is grown on single stems, to the more natural looking spray 
with smaller and singler flowers. Within the last twenty-five years 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 



93 



the cultivation of this flower has made rapid strides. The size of 
the blooms is due to this improved cultivation quite as much as to 
an improvement in the varieties by selection of sports and cross- 
breeding during that time. Many good kinds have been raised, but 
these kinds, when grown according to old methods, do not show 
the wonderful improvement that is claimed for them. Indoor bench 
culture and growing one flower to a plant is the means by which 
the flowers are developed to their utmost size. 

The list here given contains the names of the best varieties 
grown today and are grouped according to type and purpose. 

The Best Early Varieties: Chrysolora, Smith's Advance, 
Golden Glow, Unaka, Pacific Supreme, Polly Rose, October Frost, 
Robert HalHday, Monrovia and Roserie. 

The Best Midseason Varieties: Chas. Rager, Dr. Enguehard, 
Major Bonnaffon, Col. Appleton, Roman Gold, Ivory, Alice Byron, 
Mrs. H. Robinson, A. J. Balfour, Chrysolora and Pink Gem. 

Best Late Varieties: W. H. Chadwick, Golden Chadwick, 
Chadwick Supreme, Jeanne Nonin, Major Bonnaffon, Helen 
Frick, December Gem, Golden Wedding, Timothy Eaton, Dr. 
Enguehard, Mrs. J. Jones, Maud Dean and Nagoya. 

Best Varieties for Retail Growers: Major Bonnaffon, 
Chrysolora, Smith's Advance, W. H. Chadwick, Dr. Enguehard, 
Chas. Rager, Golden Chadwick, Golden Glow, Ivory. 

Best Exhibition Varieties: Wm. Turner, Dr. Enguehard 
Wells' Late Pink, Lady Hopetoun, Maud Dean, Naomi, Pockett's 
Crimson. 

Best Pompons: Baby, Diana, Elva, Frank Wilcox, Fairy 
Queen, Golden Chmax, Golden Harvest, Golden West, Harvest 
Moon, Helen Newberry, Julia Lagravere, LiUian Doty, Queen of 
Whites, Quinola, Western Beauty and Zenobia. 

Best Singles: Ceddie lason, Dorothy Duggan, Dorothy 
Dann, Excelsior, Golden Mensa, Kitty Bourne, Mrs. E. D. God- 
frey, Mary Richardson, ]\Ierstham Jewel, Mrs. Whitehorn, Margaret 
Walker and Mrs. Wm. Buckingham. 

Culture 

Soil. The Chrysanthemum is not fastidious as to soil, but being 
a gross feeder at least one-fourth of the bulk of the soil should be 
of well-rotted cow manure, the remainder, loam. Four or five 
inches in depth for benches is sufficient, and before the plants are 



94 PLANT CULTURE 

put in position it is made firm by tramping, or, in the case of side 
benches, by pounding with a brick. If the soil is dry, give a good 
watering a day or two before planting. Syringing should be prac- 
ticed several times daily while the plants are growing; this, together 
with full ventilation, will provide perfect atmospheric conditions. 
Watering should not be overdone at any time; the condition of the 
surface soil will readily suggest when the operation is necessary. 

Ventilation. This is a very essential item in the cultivation 
of the Chrysanthemum indoors. To one unacquainted with the 
exact atmospheric conditions under which the best flowers are grown 
in a greenhouse, it would seem somewhat strange that a hardy her- 
baceous plant should be cooped up in a hothouse all Summer; but 
this is far from being the case, because with abundant ventilation 
top and bottom, and frequent syringing, the house is kept in a 
more favorable state for their growth than one would imagine; and 
in the absence of sun the conditions are much more favorable than 
outdoors. If there are no means of side ventilation provided, panes 
of glass above the footpaths should be removed to let in all the air 
possible. The doors should also be kept open. 

Selecting the Bud. There are two kinds of buds, known as 
"crown" and "terminal." The crown bud appears directly on the 
end of the shoot, and is naturally the first seen. In some varieties, 
particularly the early ones, this is the proper bud to select to de- 
velop into a flower, but in some well-known kinds growers do not 
agree as to which is the proper bud to select. There is no doubt, 
however, that with some soils, also under certain cultural methods, 
the proper bud to "take" under those conditions would be the 
wrong one under others. The terminal bud shoots are usually three 
in number and develop from the axils of the leaves below the crown 
bud. One of these bud shoots is allowed to remain when a terminal 
bud is selected, and the other two pinched off together with the 
crown bud. The terminal bud is the one selected in the large 
majority of varieties; it consists of the end bud, or that which ter- 
minates the selected lateral shoot. Other buds will, in course of 
time, appear in the axils of the leaves of this shoot; these must also 
be removed. 

Late Flov^ering Plants. To extend the season of some of the 
latest flowering varieties till Christmas the cuttings should be taken 
late, and as soon as rooted kept in a growing condition to pre- 
vent the wood getting hard. Growing points of previously potted 
cuttings make good wood, if they can be kept from wilting during 



GREENHOUSE AND COaNSERVATORY PLANTS 



95 




96 PLANT CULTURE 

the rooting process; but this operation is somewhat difficult after 
the middle of July. Too much shade will cause damping and too 
little favors wilting, so close observation will be necessary to hit the 
exact conditions. The single leaf cuttings are easiest to root at this 
season. If the sand be rough grained and free from foreign material, 
have the leaf with the under surface lying flat on the sand. Keep 
the plants shaded for some time after they are planted out. Very 
short stems are only avoided by supplying conditions favorable 
to growth. 

Specimen Plants. These are not grown so much as they were 
a few years ago, owing to the demand for pot plants beyond a cer- 
tain size being very limited. Plants which can be sold at a moderate 
figure give the best results, and for this purpose they can be grown 
with very little attention, compared with pot-grown specimens, if 
they be planted out in the field, and attention given them occasion- 
ally during dry weather with water and the cultivator. Pinch to 
produce bushy plants. The number of times that pinching should 
be done must be governed by the kind of plant wanted; if only a few 
stems one pinching may be sufficient. In September the plants 
should be transferred to suitable sized pots. If protected from the 
sun and given a moist atmosphere for a few days after the transfer 
they will show no bad results. Plants for pots are also grown on 
benches which have been occupied during the Winter by Carnations. 
They are lifted and potted in time so as not to interfere with the 
housing of field-grown plants of Carnations. In either case May is 
early enough to start the plants. Specimen plants of the largest 
size are started from cuttings as early as December, and from that 
time on till the end of January. The cuttings should be fairly 
strong, and either put separately in thumb pots or rooted in the sand 
bed. The plants must never be allowed to go to rest, and should 
be kept in healthy vigor from the start. During the Winter a posi- 
tion near the glass, in a house running north and south, suits them 
well. The best plants are grown in the house from start to finish; 
but in this case they take a large amount of space. 

Insects. The kinds which are troublesome are small in number, 
but their representatives are numerous enough. There are several 
species of aphis, which attack the young shoots; these pests must 
be combated with tobacco in any of its forms. Grasshoppers are 
also troublesome, and they must be attended to individually. 
Caterpillars are best prevented from appearing by catching the 
perfect insects in the shape of moths and butterflies as they appear 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 97 

in the house. When the eggs hatch hand picking is the only effica- 
cious means of ridding the plants of the caterpillars. 

Propagation 

Stock Plants. Selected roots for this purpose should be heeled 
in on the bench of a house where they can be kept cool ; a temperature 
high enough to keep out frost is best. If such accommodation can- 
not be spared the next best place is a frame around which stable 
bedding is banked up level with the sash. Give abundance of ven- 
tilation in favorable weather and cover the sash when there is danger 
to the plants from frost. 

Propagating for General Crop. The ideal months for this 
operation are April and May, as then the cuttings are in good con- 
dition and the temperature is not too high to make the operation a 
difficult one. For cutting material the moderately thick shoots 
should be chosen, avoiding those which are very succulent, or those 
which are weak and show long spaces between the leaf joints. The 
short, stocky, soft growths are best, and should be preferred to all 
others. The early flowered kinds should be given attention first. 
Put the cuttings in the sand bed, and during the rooting process a 
high temperature with a stagnant atmosphere should be avoided. 
When the roots are from one-half to three-quarters of an inch long 
the cuttings should be potted, as their roots weaken by a longer 
stay in the sand. Put in thumb pots, using soil a little lighter than 
the regular potting compost and obtained by adding a small quan- 
tity of leaf soil. In this stage keep them in the same temperature 
as that in which they were rooted until their roots show through the 
ball of soil. They should then be removed to a coldframe, standing 
them on a bottom of sifted ashes. As soon as the plants show signs 
of needing a shift they should be put in 3-inch pots, and as a pre- 
caution against hardening of the stems they should be plunged in the 
ashes, and during excessively warm weather some leaf soil should be 
thrown over the tops of the pots to help in keeping the roots cool. 
Planting may be proceeded with by the beginning of June for the 
early flowering varieties, taking care that the plants are well watered 
before being knocked out of their pots. 

CHRYSALIDOCARPUS (Areca). C. lutescens was grown 
largely as a decorative Palm a few years ago, but owing to its tender 
nature it has been superseded by the Kentias. It can be easily iden- 
tified by its yellow stems. 



98 ri.w r rn.rrRK 

CINERARIA. Thcro is hardly a more showy plant in bloom 
than a wclI-groNvn Cineraria, and few things more wonderful than 
the color display of several hundred plants in tlower, and the 
thought that they all evolved out of one tiny little package of seed. 
There is nothing that can be produced with less expense and less 
trouble. C. crucuta is the garden or florists' Cineraria. C. flare plena 
is a double. C stcIliiUi (Star Cineraria) is a beautiful, tall, branching 
grower which is becoming very popular. 

Culture. Keep plants growing vigorously, and do not let them 
get pot-bound. Use one-half leafmold and one-half fibrous loam 
until plants are ready for their flowering pots which should be 5 or 6 
inches, then give three parts fibrous loam and one part well-decayed 
cow manure. Keep night temperatures as near 45 degrees as pos- 
sible. Keep near the glass. Plants should be in their flowering pots 
at least six weeks before the time they are to begin flowering. This 
makes compact growth and large, dense tlower heads. If not some^ 
what pot bound, growth will be weaker and flowers few. 

Propagation. They are mostly propagated from seed; double 
varieties are sometimes propagated by cuttings because they do not 
seed freely. Two or three sowings should be made to insure a suc- 
cession of bloom, the first about the first of August, the secoml 
about the first of September, and a third about September 15. Sow 
the seed and give the seedlings the same care as for Calceolarias, 
except that the seeds should be covered to a depth of } s inch with a 
mixture of finely sifted leafmold and sharp sand. 

After seedlings germinate, sift a little line, clean sand over the 
top of the pan. This prevents damping otT. Water the same as 
for Calceolaria seed. As soon as large enough to handle, transplant 
into thumb pots. 

CLIANTHUS (Glory Pea, or Parrot's Bill). C. DanipUr! is a 
leguminous plant, hard to surpass as a strikingly beautiful flower. 
Another species, C. puiiiccuSy is often seen in Southern California, 
but it cannot compare with C. Dampicri. 

Propagation. C. pun ice us is very easily raised from seeds, but 
it seems difficult to get good flowering specimens of C. Dampicri on 
its own roots under cultivation and because of this it is usually in- 
arched upon other members of the legume family, such as the 
Colutea and Caragana. When grafting it is best to use the seedling 
Clianlhus while in the cotyledon stage. !Make a vertical cut in the 
small seedling stock and with a razor make a slanting cut in the 
Clianthus seedling stem and place this into the cut in the stock and 



(;ri<:I':nii()Usic and conskkvatory i^lants 



00 



tic with ;i very thin strand of raffia, invert a small drinking glass 
over the pot, keep moist and tlic union will be perfect in a few days. 
When the union is sifc the glass is removed gradually. Close atten- 




\'arii:tii;s oi-- Cinkrakias 



tion to the needs of the plant will be rewarded by numerous flower 
racemes within a year. 

CQi^LOGYNE. The Ccrlogynes are evergreen. The best forms 
to grow are C. cris/ala, and its variety, C c. var. maxima, which 



loo PLANT CULTURE 

bears large flowers. The plants may be grown with Cattleyas. 
If kept in a healthy condition at the roots this is a very free bloomer. 
The potting material should be examined after the flowers are gone, 
and if decayed replace with fresh material. In large specimens this 
is a tedious operation. As the plants are evergreen, they should 
never become very dry. A good size for flowering may go into 
lo-inch pans. By the beginning of June we place our plants under 
the shade of trees for four months, where they develop splendid 
growth. Their flowering season is during February and March, and 
immediately after, the shoots being to push out. 

Propagation. The plants of this species are easily divided. 
New growths sometimes push out not only from the base of 
last year's pseudo-bulb, but also from those of the two previous 
seasons. 

COCOS. C. WeddeUiana in a young state is exceedingly 
ornamental, the leaf divisions being narrow and close together. 
It will stand a lower temperature than is generally given. Small 
plants are admirably adapted for the dwelling house. C nucifera, 
the Cocoanut, is also cultivated in greenhouses. C. plumosa is 
a prominent street tree in California and Florida. (See also 
Palms.) 

CODI^UM (Croton. Variegated Laurel). The Codia^um, 
or Croton, as it is commonly called, is a genus of plants containing 
almost endless varieties through crossing and selection. It is a 
foliage plant and is noted for its varied and brilliant markings on 
the leaves. They are tropical plants and therefore grown only in 
greenhouses in the North. In the warmer parts of the country it 
has forged its way to the front as a choice bedding plant and very 
deservedly so. (See page 283). It is seldom seen as a house plant, 
one reason being the dry air of houses. Some of the many varieties 
noted are: Baroness James de Rothschild, Rex, Robert Craig, 
Maculatum, Queen Victoria, Norwood Beauty, Punctatum. 

Culture. They require a night temperature of from 70 to 75 
degrees and the air must be kept moist by frequent syringing. The 
color of the leaves will be enhanced by an increase in the sunlight. 
They are subject to mealy bugs and red spider and should be 
sprayed two or three times a week with tobacco water. 

Propagation. They may be increased by cuttings of half- 
ripened wood taken at any time from October until June. A bot- 
tom heat of 80 degrees is required. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS loi 

Ringing Crotons. This simple operation is brought into 
requisition when it is desired to root the top part of any particularly 
fine specimen. The stem of the parent plant may be destitute of 
leaves for a considerable distance above the pot, making the plant 
comparatively useless as a specimen and only useful as a stock plant. 
Ringing, if successfully performed, will give an almost perfect plant 
a foot or so high with large leaves right down to the soil — a condition 
we can hardly hope for from cuttings. Moreover, the rooted top 
sends out such a mass of feeding roots that the succeeding growth 
is not stunted, but continues to make leaves every bit as large as 
the lowest ones — a condition much to be desired when an evenly 
built up plant is wanted. Plants, then, should be selected which 
have good, healthy tops with finely-colored, well-developed leaves, 
and if the bottom part near the pot has lost its leaves this is the 
only use to which it can be put. The house in which the operation is 
performed should be a warm one and shaded from the sun, so that 
the material used to produce roots will not dry up too quickly. 
Select those pieces which are dormant or have made their growth, 
because if plants are taken during the process of making leaves they 
are bound to carry some disfigurement afterward. The stem at 
the place to be rooted should be denuded of the leaves for two or 
three inches of its length, and with a sharp knife remove a small 
section of the bark; or, just as good, make an incision in the wood 
upward of about three-quarters of an inch in length, and in depth 
from one-third to one-half the diameter of the stem. Insert a little 
sphagnum moss to keep the incision open, then tie a small quantity 
around it, not too much or it will be apt to keep too wet. After 
being tied small enough, so that the fingers can easily close on it, 
stand the plant back in its place and see that the moss does not 
suffer for want of water, because should this happen the tender tips 
of the roots will be lost and the process of rooting will to a certain 
extent have to be begun again. 

As soon as the roots show through the moss the plants should be 
potted, but not potted in the ordinary way. Many pots are broken 
trying to get plants out of them, but in this case we will have to 
break pots to get the plants in. Thumb pots are quite large enough 
for the first shift; and these must be broken into two pieces length- 
wise. One-half of one pot and one-half of another will not do, as 
the pieces must fit closely, therefore break as many pieces as are 
wanted, and lay the pieces one on top of the other before beginning 
the operation of potting. Supports must also be supplied, consisting 
of two sticks, one on each side, and reaching to the mossed part of 



I02 



PLANT CULTURE 




Croton punctata in 2M-» 3- and 43/^-in. pots 

Good all around plant, very tough and enduring. Useful for 
filling in for Christmas baskets. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 103 

the stem. On one of the sticks, just about where the middle of the 
pot will reach, twist a piece of wire, then clasp the moss with the 
two pieces of pot, twist the wire firmly around these and then on 
to the other stick. This will keep the pot in position until the time 
to sever the top from the plant. This condition will be indicated 
by the roots appearing through the bottoms of the pots. If the tops 
are not of the largest size they can be cut off and placed in a close 
frame for a few days before potting on; if, instead, they are large, a 
further application of material to the mossed part will be necessary. 
For this purpose 3-inch pots will have to be used, and the material 
should be fibrous peat, sand and loam, mixed. When the roots show, 
the tops may be cut off. Stand the pots inside of others of the same 
size in the frame, until they recover to a certain extent, then pot and 
keep close for a while longer, gradually giving air. 

CORDYLINE (Commonly known as Dracaenas). There are 
numerous sorts of Cordyline worthy of culture, the commonest 
being C. australis (D. indivisa) , a species very useful for the center 
of hanging baskets and urns because of its long, graceful, arching, 
grass-like leaves. C. terminalis is a broader-leaved species of which 
there are a number of varieties, namely: C. t. var. ferrea, a dull 
purple variegated-leaved sort; C. /. Guilfoylei, a red, pink and white 
variegated variety; C. /. var. amahilis, white and pink variegations; 
C. t. var. Baptistii, a broad-leaved sort with deep green, recurved 
leaves, variegated with a few pink and yellow stripes; C. t. var. 
Bausei, broad-leaved, dirk green with some white; C /. var. aner- 
liensis, a very broad-leaved variety with deep bronze red leaves, 
variegated slightly white; C. t. var. Youngii, a deep coppery bronze 
sort. 

Propagation and Culture. The sorts such as C australis 
and its forms, are best raised from seeds, which are easily procurable. 
Sow thinly, as they will not require to be transferred during the 
earlier stages of growth. They are good decorative plants, from 
5-inch pot plants up, having long, narrow, strap-shaped, drooping 
leaves. Small plants are useful for mixing with other subjects in 
vases and baskets, as they stand full sun. The ornamental-leaved 
kinds, which need a higher temperature for their perfect development, 
are very numerous. The C. terminalis varieties are best increased 
by cutting up the long stems into pieces about 3 inches in length; 
put in warm sand and keep moderately damp. They will throw up 
shoots from each eye; these should be taken off and put in the sand 
to form strong, fresh roots, as they are provided, when attached to 



I04 PLANT CULTURE 

the parent stem, only with very weak roots and sometimes none at 
all. They will root quickly, and may be potted according to their 
size, in 2- or 3-inch pots, and grown on quickly in a high temperature. 
When they reach a marketable size the hardening-off process is 
necessary, or they will not stand long when used for decorating. 
In C. nco-caledonica, C. t. brazilicnsis and C. t. amabilis the thick- 
ened root stocks may be cut up into pieces along with the stems 
for propagation. C. /. canncefolia does not succeed so well when 
cut up into small pieces. It is a splendid decorative plant, standing 
much rough usage. Moss the tops and afterward place pieces of 
the stems, at least a foot long, in the bench of a cool house, as they 
take their own time in sending up growths. The species and forms 
with highly colored foliage will need a minimum temperature in 
Winter of at least 55 degrees. The others will succeed with the 
thermometer 15 degrees lower. With the greenhouse kinds loam 
should predominate in the potting soil, but the others should get a 
greater quantity of leaf soil. 

COTYLEDON (Echeveria. Hen-and-Chickens) . C. gibbiflora 
metallica takes a prominent place among serviceable flowering plants 
during January and February. It is one which is attractive either 
in or out of bloom, and its cultivation is unattended by any serious 
difficulties. C. fulgens and C. coccinea are also good. 

Culture. Keep in a warm house where it is rather dry and 
not exposed to drip. 

Propagation. When done blooming, which will be in a short 
time, its propagation may be attended to as follows: Take off the 
top of the main growth with as much stem attached as will enable 
it, when rooted, to go 2 or 3 inches into the soil; to root them, take 
as many 4-inch pots as there are tops, stand them on the bench, 
put a little moss in the bottoms, and then place a cutting in each; 
this will cause the cut part to callus over without the danger of 
rotting. In a short time the stems will give out hair-like roots, and 
when these are from one-half to three-quarters of an inch long, the 
cuttings may be potted, using soil on the dry side, and kept rather 
dry until the plants have made roots enough to demand water. 
On the old stumps rosettes of leaves will form, which in time may be 
taken off and potted. 

CRASSULA (Rochea). The principal member of this small 
genus of plants, C. falcata, is indigenous to the Cape of Good Hope. 
The foliage is rather peculiar in that the leaves are thick, blunt and 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 105 

formed somewhat after the shape of a curved knife. The chief 
attraction lies in the flowers, which are bright scarlet, small, but pro- 
duced in immense numbers in flat heads. 

Culture. Although in Summer it will stand an abundance of 
water in fully exposed situations, it should be given drier conditions 
in Winter. It will succeed well enough in a house suitable for 
Geraniums. 

Propagation. The Crassula is a slow-growing plant, conse- 
quently getting up a stock is a tedious process. The tips of the 
shoots make the finest plants, and the pieces of the stem next the 
place where the tip has been taken off can be utilized for as much 
of its length as will be safe to enable it to break out again. For leaf 
cuttings the leaves must be cut off cleanly and put in sand, much in 
the same way as Cotyledons, only a little more heat should be given 
during the rooting process. Encourage old plants to send out small 
growths along the old stems by taking out the tips and keeping the 
plants perfectly dry for a time. As soon as they begin to break, 
water may be gradually supplied. 

CURCULIGO. From the general appearance of the foliage 
one would suppose that these plants were members of the Palm 
family instead of being related to the Amaryllis. The leaves re- 
semble the undivided leaves of Cocos flexuosa. C. recurvaia is the only 
species grown. The form with variegated leaves is one of our hand- 
somest variegated plants. 

Culture. During growth they require stove temperature for 
their perfect development. They stand in a dwelling house fairly 
well. Almost any kind of soil will answer; but as the plants need 
large quantities of water the drainage should be perfect. 

Propagation. They are increased by division. If the pieces 
are placed in sand in the propagating house before potting they will 
root rapidly. 

CYCAS (Sago Palm). The Cycas is a most attractive Palm- 
like plant found in most conservatories. 

Culture. Cycas revoluta stems are often shipped in a dormant 
state. They require careful treatment when they are potted. 
Having few or no roots they should not be placed in large receptacles, 
as the soil when once watered takes too long a time to dry out, and 
is apt to become sour, which is anything but a favorable condition 
to tempt the growth of fresh roots. Put the stems into as small 
pots as they will go, leaving just enough space to ram the soil 



io6 PLANT CULTURE 

tightly around them with a thin piece of wood. They will start into 
growth best when in a warm, moist house, and require little water 
until they show signs of sending up a crop of leaves. Plants of this 
class make their annual crop of leaves, not one after the other, as 
is the case with Palms, but simultaneously, and at this period they 
require close watching so that the foliage may be prevented from 
being deformed in any way from insect attacks, cold drafts, or com- 
ing in contact with other things during development. The tempera- 
ture should be higher at this period than at any other. When roots 
are formed and a sufficient time has elapsed after the development 
of the fronds, the plants may be given larger pots. A minimum 
temperature of 50 degrees will suffice during Winter. 

Propagation. They are usually propagated by seeds. Sow in 
the bench or in shallow boxes and cover lightly with sand. After 
the seeds have germinated, pot in light, moderately rich soil. 

CYCLAMEN. The commercial Cyclamens are varieties of 
C. persicum. The Giganteum strains produce larger flowers than 
the type, but fewer of them. Crested forms variously called Butter- 
fly hybrids and Rococo varieties. 

Culture. The soil should consist of loam mixed with lesser 
quantities of old manure and leaf mold; a little sand and crushed 
charcoal will help to keep the mass in a porous condition. In pot- 
ting, the corm, or swollen stem, may be half buried in the soil; care- 
ful drainage is necessary. As soon as there is danger from frost the 
plants are removed indoors; and to give good, stiff stalks to the 
flowers full light and an abundance of air should be afforded on all 
favorable occasions. 

Propagation. Cyclamen seeds, to insure even germinating, 
should be sown as soon as convenient after ripening. The seeds 
ripen from April to June. The sowing season is from September to 
the beginning of December, and the seeds, between the harvesting 
and sowing periods, should be kept in an open-mouthed bottle, 
mixed with dry sand. Although the seed may be held for years it 
loses in vitality the longer it is kept. To have plants in bloom by 
Christmas the seedlings will consume from 1 2 to 14 months in com- 
pleting their growth, and during that period they should never be 
allowed to rest by withholding water, or be subjected to other con- 
ditions unfavorable to continuous growth. The seed should be sown 
in shallow pans or boxes, in light, sandy soil, and covered to very 
little more than their own depth with finely sifted soil and sphagnum, 
two parts of the former to one of the latter. The swollen root-stock 



GRP:ENH0USE and conservatory plants 107 




Cyclamen 



is formed before the first leaf makes its appearance, and when the 
first leaf is fully developed the seedhngs are ready for pricking off. 
During this process a minimum temperature of 55 degrees will be 
sufficient. The seedlings may be put directly into thumb pots, 
pricked off around the sides of 4- or 5-inch pots, or into shallow boxes, 
keeping them at all times near the light, and in as uniform a state of 
moisture at the roots as possible. By the middle of May those in 
the most advanced stages of growth should be in 4-inch pots. At 
this time they should get the full light from the north side of a 
house, the plants being placed on inverted pots, and as near the glass 
as possible. The glass on the south side should be shaded. For 
Summer quarters frames are the best. The bottom should have a 



io8 PLANT CULTURE 

few inches of ashes to retain moisture. The sash may be raised a 
few inches above the woodwork by running pieces of wood along 
top and bottom. The best shading device is probably a piece of 
cloth fixed to a roller, so that it may easily be stretched over the 
glass during the hottest part of the day, or the glass may be covered 
with one of the shading mixtures. Heavy rains should not strike 
the plants, but they will be benefited by removing the sash in the 
evenings, replacing them as the temperature gets too warm the fol- 
lowing morning. Greenfly, the Cyclamen's greatest insect enemy, 
may be removed by periodical syringings, or by scattering tobacco 
stems among the pots. The plants should be repotted when neces- 
sary, the very latest ones getting their last transfer about the ist of 
November, the earliest plants at least a month sooner. Well-de- 
veloped specimens should easily fill an 8-inch pan. 

CYPRIPEDIUM (Lady's Slipper Orchid). These sorts are 
terrestrial and mostly evergreen (our native species being herba- 
ceous). The evergreen kinds need copious supplies of water while 
growing, and even during the resting season they should not be al- 
lowed to get dry. They may be grown largely in peat and sphagnum. 
C. insigne, the one most frequently met with, is best grown cool. 
It should be kept outdoors during Summer, and to retard the 
flowering period may be kept in well-aired frames until there is 
danger from frost. C. Spicerianum requires a warm temperature, 
flowering in early Spring. 

CYTISUS (Broom, Genista). Several forms are grown for 
mid-Spring and Easter flowering. 

Culture. Frequent syringings are necessary to combat the at- 
tack of red spider. Pinch back the strong growths as soon as they 
show a tendency to outgrow the others. "Keep cool during Autumn 
and the early Winter months. After January they may be trans- 
ferred gradually in a warmer house for forcing. 

Propagation. Cuttings are rooted in February. They may 
also be increased by seeds and layers. The young plants may be 
grown in frames. 

DALECHAMPIA. This plant belongs to the same family as 
the Poinsettia, and, like it, is grown solely on account of its bracts, 
which are rose colored. D. Roezliana is the only species cultivated. 

Culture. It is a warm house plant, but may be plunged out- 
side in Summer to make abundant growth. Use a sandy peat soil 
with good drainage. 

Propagation. By cuttings. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 109 

DAPHNE. One of the most popular of the greenhouse species 
is Daphne odora. The odor of the flowers is very pleasing to most 
people. There are several varieties, differing from one another in 
the colors of the flowers. They are Winter blooming and highly 
prized everywhere. The commoner species do fairly well in Wash- 
ington when protected from late frosts. They grow better much 
farther north than at Washington. 

Culture. Give them a sandy compost of peat and loam; pro- 
vide good drainage and water carefully during the Winter. 

Propagation. By cuttings of the ripened wood, placed in sand. 

DENDROBIUM. D. nohile is one of the oldest and easiest 
grown of the species. D. formosum is an evergreen and requires 
heat. D. Phalcenopsis is one of the finest for cutting, giving long 
stems without injuring the plant. 

DESMODIUM (Tick Trefoil). D. gyrans is a plant of little 
beauty, but very interesting because of the movements of its lateral 
leaflets, which are continuous in the higher temperatures. For pub- 
lic greenhouses and when properly labeled it would interest most 
persons. 

Culture. It is easy of culture. 

Propagation. Seeds or cuttings in a warm house. 

DICHORISANDRA. Of the Tradescantia family, Dichori- 
Sandra thrysiflora is usually grown as a stove plant. lii this capactiy, 
unless given abundant root room, the flowers are not produced in 
abundance. South of Philadelphia it may be used as a choice sub- 
ject for the open border in Summer. The flowers, of a rich dark 
blue and the stamens yellow, are borne on the upright shoots of the 
current year's growth, which is about 2 feet in height. 

Culture. Requires little attention after it has become well- 
established. Repot carefully every year until about an 8-inch pot 
is filled with roots. It forms one strong shoot each year which after 
blooming dies down; water should be withdrawn gradually at this 
time. Give plenty of water during the growing season. 

Propagation. In August and September the flowering shoots 
may be cut in pieces, with a single leaf to each if necessary, and 
rooted in the hot propagating bed. They may be kept in a semi- 
dormant state during the Winter, as the plants will form thick 
tuber-like roots. 

DICHROA (Adamia). The Dichroa cyanea is a tender plant 
of the Hydrangea family, with bright lilac flowers and berries. It 



no PLANT CULTURE 

is not quite as floriferous as the Hydrangeas, and is only hardy in 
the South. As a greenhouse plant we should grow more of it. 

Propagation. Increased by cuttings taken from the ripened 
growths. 

DIEFFENBACHIA. Among the numerous species there are a 
few worthy of cultivation in the warm house, D. Baraquiniana, 
Jentnanii, Vdtchii, Bausei and grandis being among the best. They 
will not stand much rough usage, being somewhat soft in the foliage; 
they are, however, easily propagated. 

Culture. They prefer a porous soil, one containing some 
chopped sphagnum moss. Give a high and moist atmosphere. 

Propagation. Some of the old plants of these ornamental aroids 
will, by the end of Summer, have grown lanky, bending over the 
pots, with only a few leaves terminating the stem. Take the tops 
off and put them in the sand bed; lay the stems aside in a warm, 
airy place to dry for three or four days, then cut them into lengths 
of about 2 inches. Lay these aside to dry for a similar period, first 
rolling them in powdered charcoal to lessen the danger of decay. Put 
in a box of nearly dry sand, cover over about an inch and stand on 
the floor of a warm house. When a few small leaves have been made 
to each sprout, pot in a mixture containing at least one-third of its 
bulk of chopped sphagnum moss; keep warm and moist. The tops, 
as soon as fairly well rooted, should be potted, not in ordinary soil, 
but in a mixture of chopped sphagnum, manure, leafmold and sand. 
In this mixture the roots fairly revel, provided a strong, moist heat 
is given. In potting Dieffenbachias put them into as small pots as 
possible, and when a shift is necessary they may be placed three to- 
gether in a pot, making a well furnished appearance in a com- 
paratively short time. 

DION^A (Venus' Fly-trap). The most Intensely interesting 
of the insectivorous plants is perhaps Dionsea miiscipula. This plant 
is grown in greenhouses all over the world where suitable conditions 
are available and never fails to rivet the attention of the beholder 
when its pecuHarities are pointed out. It is probably the most pe- 
culiar plant in the world as it lures, catches, kills, and practically 
eats insects by means of the httle traplike modifications of the 
leaves. The traps are so arranged that it is impossible to devise 
any mechanical scheme to entrap flies and other insects 
with greater certainty than this denizen of the swamps of North 
Carolina. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS iii 

Culture. Unfortunately, it has been somewhat difficult to 
grow in greenhouses or anywhere outside of its native habitat in 
North Carolina. It will not grow under conditions which suit the 
Sarracenia, Cephalotus, Darlingtonia, and the Sundews. But we can 
now grow the Dionaea under cultivation so that specimens can be 
produced which give larger "traps" than can be found in its native 
haunts. The secret lies in growing the plants in glass pots, in shape 
just like ordinary flower pots, with a hole in the bottom. One would 
think the glass pots would be anything but favorable to the growth 
of this plant, but we have had the same plants growing splendidly 
for several years. The reason is that in a peaty substance, together 
with sand and chopped sphagnum moss, when small pieces of broken 
pots are used, the lower vegetable organisms start growing on the 
inner side of the pot and they keep on growing instead of dying, as 
they would do in an earthenware pot. Someone may ask how we 
know that the health of the plant is occasioned by the low vegeta- 
tion around the ball of the plant. It has been proved in this way: 
Take several thicknesses of dark paper and wrap it around the outer 
part of the glass pot to exclude light; in a short time the low forms 
of vegetation will die and the Dionaea will soon behave like it does 
in ordinary flower pots — it will keep in healthy growth only for a 
comparatively short period, while those in the glass pots which are 
exposed to the light are always healthy. 

Propagation. Seeds can be made to germinate under a bell-jar 
on a moist, sandy soil which contains finely chopped sphagnum moss. 

DRACi^NA. Certain plants known as Dracaenas are found 
under Cordyline. There are a great number of species of Dracaena 
cultivated, and especially D. Godseffiana, D. Jragrans, D. Goldieana 
and D. Sanderiana. There are a number of varieties of D. jragrans 
well worthy of culture, namely : D. Rothiana, D. Victoria, D. Lin- 
denii, and D. Massangeana. D. fragrans, the most useful of the 
genus, grows 12 feet high, but small specimens are well furnished 
with leaves. The plants will stand much rough usage. D. Lindenii 
and D. Massangeana, variegated forms. In propagating, when the 
stems have leaves, cut into lengths with a leaf or two to each, and 
root like ordinary cuttings. These make stock plants. Long, leaf- 
less stems should be cut into lengths of about a foot and buried in 
warm sand and moss. They sprout freely; the sprouts should be 
taken off and rooted afresh before potting. The plants need slight 
shade in Summer. All three require abundant root room and well 
enriched porous soil, otherwise they will show a sickly yellow hue 



112 



PLANT CUI.TURE 




GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 113 

on the leaves. D. Codseffiana is a plant with short leaves, somewhat 
resembling in shape and coloring those of the old D. phrynioides . 
D. Godseffiana, however, has the markings hghter. When planted 
out in Summer, and well supphed with water, it makes considerable 
growth. Every small twig may be rooted. Perhaps the best use to 
which it may be put is in association with small ferns in pans. 
Z>. Sanderiana will never occupy a very important place among dec- 
orative plants, because single plants do not make much of a show 
in 5- or 6-inch pots. On account of its variegated fohage and slender 
habit it can be used among ferns and mosses for jardiniere work. 
Pieces of the stem with two or three leaves attached root quickly 
with bottom heat. If wanted for filling pots above 5 inches, three 
or four must be potted together. D. Goldieana is a handsome stove 
plant with short, broad leaves, irregularly marbled with dark green 
and dull white. Tops may be rooted and the canes left to sprout; 
or they may be cut up, sprouted and rooted, as in the case of Cordy- 
line terminalis. 

DROSERA, Tne finest of all the Sundews, Drosera hinata is a 
native of Australia, growing about i foot in height. This is an ex- 
ceedingly attractive plant for private greenhouses. In early Spring 
the leaves catch myriads of male greenfly, and the plant may be re- 
garded as a friend of the horticulturist. 

Culture. It will succeed in a cool greenhouse. Give soil same 
as recommended for Nepenthes, covering with live moss. 

Propagation. This may be accomplished by seeds, division of 
the shoots, or cutting the rhizomes into pieces 3^ to i inch long. 

EPIPHYLLUMS (Christmas Cactus). Epiphyllums are usually 
grown as standards; that is, grafted on the stems of other plants. 
This method is necessary because the branches have a procumbent 
habit when the plants are on their own roots. Rooted cuttings may 
be grown to a fair size and used in baskets or other hanging recep- 
tacles. The species, three in number, and the numerous varieties 
make very handsome Winter-flowering plants. 

Culture. (See Cactus). 

Propagation. The stocks for grafting are usually Peres kia 
aculeata and P. grandiflora. The latter is the more robust grower, 
and therefore most suitable for tall specimens, P. aculeata being 
used for dwarf ones. Cuttings of the Pereskias, which, of course, 
belong to the Cactus tribe, may be rooted any time after the wood 
is fairly ripe. They may be put in a dry and warm part of the 



114 



PLANT CULTURE 




Drac^na Sanderiana 

FOUR plants in A 6-IN. PAN 



propagating bed, and given water only after they show signs of 
sending out toots. To graft, select stock in which the wood is suffi- 
ciently firm; cut off the top part, make a cut down the center for 
three-quarters of an inch or so, then insert a piece of the ripened 
growth of the Epiphyllum, and run one of the Pereskia spines 
through the whole to keep it firmly together, or tie with raffia until 
the union is completed. This will be effected in a few weeks in a 
good growing temperature. Have the Pereskias in as small pots as 
possible at the time of grafting, so that when the union between stock 
and cion takes place the plants will start growing quickly by being 
shifted into larger pots. The potting mixture should be very porous, 
as the least stagnation is fatal to the roots. Sandy loam, broken 
brick, old manure and a little leaf soil will be found best. 

ERANTHEMUM. One of our brightest blue flowers in the 
greenhouse during late Winter is Eranthemum pulchellum. 

Culture. After blooming discard all plants not wanted for 
cuttings. Old plants become loose and weedy unless well cut back. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 115 

Propagation. Put in cuttings during early Spring; plant in 
the open border as soon as weather permits, lift and pot in the Fall. 
Splendid specimens may thus be secured for Winter bloom. 

ERICA (Heath). Several years ago the growing of these 
plants in this country for commercial purposes was regarded as an 
impossibility, even by those who were familiar with their culture in 
Europe. But now, some of the kinds are grown here as well as any- 
where, simply by studying their needs, and carefully attending to 
their wants. E. persoluta, E. melanthera, E. gracilis and E. hyemalis 
are a few of the very many kinds grown. 

Culture. During the Summer months keep the roots cool by 
plunging the plants in some porous material, never allowing them 
to get too wet or too dry. It may be stated here that roots of plants 
are divided into four classes — nutritive, attachment, contractile 
and storage. In the Ericas the nutritive roots are most abundant 
next the flower pot, so that an equable condition of moisture is neces- 
sary to their existence. Avoid manure of any description. 

Propagation Propagation of the several varieties may be 
effected during April before the active growth of the season gets 
too far advanced. Have no undesirable vegetable humus or mud in 
the sand. Secure a good-sized bucket, fill with sand and push the 
end of the hose to the bottom, allowing the water to run with con- 
siderable force for a few minutes. This will clean the sand of all 
impurities. Pans or pots for the cuttings should have perfect drain- 
age to within 2 or 3 inches from the surface; give about an inch of 
peat or leafmold and sand at the bottom, covering with an inch or 
so of sand, which should be made firm. Keep close under glass while 
rooting at a temperature never above 60 degrees F. 

ERYTHRINA (Coral Tree). The herbaceous species of 
Erythrina are not ornamental when not in flower. E. Crista-galli 
and the variety E. laurifolia, together with E. Hendersoni, are the 
best for outdoor culture. The woody sorts, E. Parcellii and E. 
marmorata, both varieties of E. indica, have variegated foliage and 
are greenhouse plants. 

Culture They are best placed in coldframes for the Winter 
and should get a mulching of stable litter to keep their roots snug. 
In the colder parts of the country the covering should extend a foot 
or more up the stems, so that there will be no danger from freezing. 
So treated they bloom nicely in Summer. In pruning leave as much 
of the stem as possible, only cutting off enough to enable the sash 



I lo 



PLAN r ( iii;i iiui' 




Ekica mulantukua 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY J'LANTS 117 

to slide into place. OM f)lants which have Ijeen hefld(-d out for the 
Summer will winter all right beneath a hench, in a C(j1(J house, with 
some soil thrown over the roots. 

Propaj»ation. Hy the beginning of February start some of the 
old plants of /i. Crista-galli, or any of its forms; th(-y are far the best 
for Summer work. Jf not in pots the old stumps may simply be 
covered over at the roots with moss and given a minimum tem- 
perature of 55 degrees. Syringe occasionally to encr)urage growths 
for cuttings. As soon as these growths are in the neighborhood of 
4 inches in length take them off with a heel, put in 2-inch pots, using 
a sandy mixture, and keep them confined in a warm [)ro[>agating 
case until they root; shift into larger pots and gradually harden off. 

EUPATORIUM. A white species, Eujjdlorium prohum, of this 
popular Winter flowering genus may be grown to come in after the 
well-known Slevia serrata goes out of flower. The flower heads are 
as large as those of .V. elcgans. The only drawback to its use as a cut 
flower is the clammy or viscid nature of the stems and leaves. The 
plant is said to be a native of Peru; it was introduced nearly forty 
years ago, but has never become popular, sui>f>osedly from its being 
confined to European gardens ever since. Two desirable Wirit<;r 
bloomers with dark lilac or purple flowers are known as E. ianthinum 
and E. macrophyllum. They are of little service for cutting. 
Plant out in late Spring after they are rione flowering. This will 
give good material for cuttings in September. E. macrophyllum is 
the stronger of the two. 

Culture. Give same treatment as for Piqueria (Steviaj. 

Propagation. Cuttings grown on in a warm, sunny house will 
fill 5-inch pots by the first of March, and have very large panicles 
of flowers. 

EUPHORBIA (Poinsettiaj. Poinsettias are grown not on ac- 
count of the flowers, which are small and inconspicuous, but for the 
highly colored bracts which surround them. The flowers are pro- 
duced in mid Winter. Both for cutting and as f)ot plants Poinsettias 
are highly popular. There are four kinds of i^^insettias in cultiva- 
tion — E. pulcherrima, which is most commonly grown; E. p. pUnis- 
sima, having a larger number of bracts; E. p. alha, with creamy 
white bracts, and a i>ink sort. Several other Euj^horbias are grown 
in greenhouses, nanutiy , E. julgens i jacquinioi flora) , a small-flowered, 
brilliant scarlet form;/s. splandcns, The Crown of Thorns, a cacta- 
ceous appearing plant; and a number of other s^jrts grown for odd 
ity rather than beauty. 



iiS PLANT CULTURE 

Culture. Plants rooted during mid-Summer from green cuttings 
may be grown on benches, much in the same way as single-stemmed 
Chrysanthemums are grown. Before the approach of cool weather 
all the plants should be removed indoors, as they will lose their leaves 
on being subjected to low temperatures. The wilting of the flowers 
of Poinsettias, or rather of the gaudy colored bracts which surround 
the flowers, is due to the milky sap secreted from the cut part. This 
hardens to a greater or less extent, and clogs up the vessels through 
which the water should ascend to keep the flowers and fohage fresh. 
A good way to circumvent this is as follows: Some little time after 
the stems have been cut and a goodly quantity of the milky sap 
has run out, cut off a small piece from the end of the stem and 
stand the cut ends in warm water for a few minutes. This will 
leave the cut part free to absorb all the water necessary for their 
support. Blooms which have been drooping for a considerable time 
may be revived in the same way. When the pots in which they 
are to bloom get full of roots clear liquid manure may be given with 
good effect. The pots of £. piilchcrrima should be thoroughly rested 
after blooming by placing the pots on their sides and letting them 
get dry. E. fiilgens should never be allowed to become completely 
dormant. • 

Propagation. The kinds are propagated in two ways, from 
dormant wood and from green cuttings. In employing the former 
method the old plants, after the flowers have been cut, or in the case 
of pot plants, after the flowers have decayed, the stems should be 
allowed to ripen thoroughly, by gradually withholding water and 
subsequently placing them beneath the stage of a warm house; 
while there they should be kept free from moisture at the roots. 
During March the canes which can be spared should be taken off 
and cut into lengths of about 4 inches. After the milky sap has 
stopped exuding from the lower part of the cuttings, they should be 
washed in warm water and dipped in powdered charcoal previous to 
being placed in the warm propagating bed. While rooting the sand 
should be kept on the dry side, only giving enough water so that the 
roots will obtain sufficient nourishment. Instead of being allowed 
to make long, spindling roots in the sand they should be potted in 
thumb pots immediately the roots appear. Put a small quantity of 
rough screenings in the bottom of each pot, and have the soil (loam 
and sand in equal parts is best) in a fairly moist condition, so that 
a very slight sprinkling through a fine rose will suffice for the first 
few da AS. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 119 

When green cuttings are preferred the plants may be started 
into growth after the end of April. Shake the soil from the roots 
and repot in rather small pots. In removing the old soil it will be 
found that the nutritive roots are decayed and only the storage roots 
remain. On coming into contact with moist soil these storage roots 
speedily send out feeding roots, followed by the expansion of the 
dormant buds on the canes. When the growths are a few inches long 
they may be taken off with a heel, potted singly and put in a close 
frame; or simply rooted in the sand bed and potted when roots are 
formed. If kept growing without a check plants from green cuttings 
will give the largest heads of bracts. Batches of cuttings may be 
put in at intervals during the Summer. When well started in pots 



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POINSETTIA 



I20 PLANT CULTURE 

all the plants may be placed in a sheltered position out of doors, 
but in the full sun. 

Euphorbia fulgens (better known as E. jacquiniaflora) is less 
easy to manage than the Poinsettia. A start should be made 
with soft cuttings, with a heel or piece of the old wood at- 
tached. They should be put in the open propagating bed instead of 
a frame, as their leaves are very liable to decay, owing to the damp- 
ness. Place in 2-inch pots and gradually shift on, keeping the plants 
in the full sun. Too much water at the root should be guarded 
against. After mid-Summer the plants may be plunged in an open 
frame to ripen their growth, and removed indoors before the weather 
shows signs of getting cool. 

EURYA. A plant useful for decorating though rarely seen is 
Eurya lad folia var. variegata. 

Culture. Give the same treatment in Summer as recom- 
mended for Araucaria. 

Propagation. Put in cuttings about the same time as Azaleas. 

EXACUM. A compact, bushy annual. Gentian-wort, Exacum 
affine gives a very good account of itself for Winter flowering in a 
moderately warm house. The flowers are bluish purple with yellow 
stamens protruding from the center of the flower. It does not have 
the provoking habit of some of the Gentians in closing its flowers 
during the latter part of the day. 

Culture. Give warm conditions in Winter; and in Summer 
keep in a cool house with no draft. Shade plants from intense 
sunlight. 

Propagation. Seed sown beginning of July will make fine 
plants by the Fall. As soon as the seedlings are large enough they 
may be plunged in a frame, where they will need but little attention, 
as they do not suffer from an occasional drying out. It may also be 
propagated by cuttings. 

FATSIA (Aralia. Rice Paper Plant). In this latitude the 
plants of F. papyrifera are annually killed to the ground, but they 
send up shoots in Spring from the roots which grow very rapidly, 
making very attractive growths, sometimes 6 feet high, so that it 
may be treated as an herbaceous plant instead of a shrub, which it 
really is in its native country and in localities with mild Winters. 
Its habit of growth resembles to a certain extent that of the Castor 
Bean, but the plant is furnished with leaves and retains them from 
the ground up all through the season. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 121 

Propagation. The method of increase is by cutting the roots 
in pieces 2 or 3 inches long. The operation may be performed any 
time late in Fall, or very early in Spring. The roots should be put 
in boxes of soil and started into growth in a greenhouse about the 
beginning of March. When potted they may be put in a coldframe 
early. (See also page 295.) 

FELICIA (Agathaea. Blue Daisy). A cool, greenhouse, low- 
growing shrub with blue, Daisy-Hke flowers produced principally 
in Winter. 

Culture. Grown Hke the Cineraria or, if propagated from 
Spring cuttings, like a Chrysanthemum. It will stand full sun at 
all seasons. 

Propagation. Cuttings should be taken from the soft wood in 
Fall and Spring and will flower quickly. 

FICUS. Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant) is one of the most popu- 
lar house plants, and one of the most suitable for this purpose. The 
leaves are large and leathery and not easily hurt through occasional 
neglect. Complaints are sometimes made of plants losing their 
lower leaves; in old plants this is natural, as evergreen plants have 
their season of leaf shedding. Young plants will lose leaves through 
insufficient or too much moisture or lack of nourishment. F. pan- 
durata has distinctive fiddle-shaped or banjo-shaped leaves, often a 
foot long. It is quite widely grown. F. repens is a traihng sort useful 
for the walls of the conservatory or as a house plant. 

Culture. Due to the fact that this is a very tough and thrifty 
plant, its culture is very easy. It can be grown very well both as a 
house plant and as a conservatory plant with very lit;;le care. 

Propagation. For stock plants indoors reserve a place at 
the end of a warm house for large, over-grown plants. They 
make quicker growth indoors during the warm months than 
they do outside, and for the purposes of single-eye cuttings, the wood 
is preferable, as the spaces between the leaves are longer. They 
should be planted in a soHd bed. If the old soil be unsuitable re- 
move it to a depth of about 18 inches; put some broken brick, 
clinkers or stones in the bottom for drainage, some old leaves on top 
of this, and fill up with rich, porous soil. Plant moderately close to- 
gether, pruning back those which require it ; with a few good stock 
plants a plentiful supply of growth for cuttings, or for mossing, will 
be the result. The Rubber when well grown can always be de- 
pended upon as a ready seUing plant. 



122 PLANT CULTURE 

Between old stocks of Rubbers planted outside and those 
kept in pots there is quite a difference in the quality of 
growth. Those given unlimited root room in the open lot 
have a somewhat succulent growth with the leaves far apart, 
and altogether not in the best condition for purposes of propagation. 
These may merely be notched below every second leaf previous to 
inserting in the sand bed later on. Plants growing in pots or tubs 
have much firmer growth, well ripened, with the leaves quite close 
together; very suitable for providing tops which may be rooted 
in large pieces and make salable plants in a short time. To go about 
this operation successfully make preparations during the first half 
of August by tying the growths to supports. Those which answer 
the purpose best are pieces of wire stakes tied along the stem, then 
at the point where it is desired to root the pieces remove just 
enough of the leaves and make an incision in the stem upward 
toward the growing point. Insert a little sphagnum moss, wait a 
day or so, remove the moss; bathe with warm water to remove the 
congealed sap, which, if left, will hinder a complete callusing of the 
cut part. Insert fresh moss and tie a handful over the incision; 
keep moist until the roots are showing through. The pieces should 
then be cut off, put in small pots and placed in a close structure for 
a few days until the roots begin to take with the soil. Syringe only 
during that period. This is a very important point. After potting 
either mossed shoots or cuttings (if the soil is in a good working 
condition; that is, neither too wet nor dry) absolutely no water 
should be given for a day or two; the atmosphere kept moist, and an 
occasional syringing will be all that is necessary. 

Cuttings root poorly sometimes, and there are several causes. 
Single-eye pieces are dibbled in an open bed with the leaf pierced 
by a stick to keep it in an upright position. During the process 
of rooting the cutting is nourished to a large extent by the moisture 
taken in by the under part of the leaf; that is, when it hes flat on 
the sand, which it should do. They will in this position root quicker 
and better. Another cause of frequent failure is in taking the cut- 
tings at the wrong time. The plants have a period of rest and a 
period of growth. When a shoot is in the process of developing a 
leaf rooting should not be attempted; better wait till every part 
is ripened, then rooting is an easy matter. In potting off do not 
allow the roots to get beyond an inch in length while in the bed. 
They sustain injury easily when coming in contact with anything. 
In lifting from the bed place the cuttings in a box with the rooted 
ends resting on one side of the box, and not too many of them to- 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 123 



i m 




Primula malacoides 

One of the daintiest lavender flowered sorts, commonly known as the Fairy Primrose. 

See page 149 



124 PLANT CULTURE 

gether. Use soil of the same temperature as the sand. Two-thirds 
loam and one-third sand is a good medium to start with; 3-inch 
pots should be used. A shift will be necessary within three weeks. 

FITTONIA. In public conservatories where potted plants are 
growing on benches the space beneath the benches is usually very 
unattractive, but this can be changed so that the space would be 
more ornamental all the year round. The drip from the stages is 
quite sufficient to keep these and other plants, such as Selaginellas, 
in fine condition, thus changing the space from an eyesore to a 
beauty spot. Two of the varieties grown are F. argyroneura, which 
has green leaves and white veins, and F. Pearcei, with red veins. 

Culture. Fittonias grow very easily and may be used as a cover 
in almost any part of the house; they are especially good in shaded 
parts. Never let the temperature go below 55 degrees. 

Propagation. They are increased by cuttings and the best 
time is in early Spring. Pot in 2-inch pots in loam, leafmold and 
sand. 

FUCHSIA. These well-known flowering plants for the green- 
house and conservatory bloom in early Spring. There are many 
single and double varieties. 

Culture. Fuchsias will bloom in 3-inch pots, but by keeping 
them in a growing state, with abundant root room, they can easily 
be grown, according to the variety, from 2}^ to 4 feet in height, 
before the flower buds make their appearance. If wanted to bloom 
in 5-inch pots, pinch back the leading shoots, and when the pot is 
well filled with roots give weak liquid manure frequently. This will 
prolong their blooming season. A single supporting stick for the 
main stem will be all that is necessary, with perhaps a few support- 
ing strings for the lateral shoots in the case of those varieties having 
large, double flowers. 

Propagation. Old plants of Fuchsias should be started by 
the middle of December to provide wood for cuttings. The plants 
should be knocked out of their flowering pots, the balls reduced and 
given fresh soil. Place them in heat and syringe freely. The 
growths for cuttings will start almost immediately. Do not take 
growths for cuttings which have been on the plants all Winter, as 
the wood is bound to be a trifle hard and does not turn out the best 
plants; better wait till the growths are tender enough. Even young 
growth, with the wood on the hard side, does not make good cut- 
tings. These should be taken off during the period of fairly rapid 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 125 

growth and kept growing, or they will be apt to remain stunted 
and come into flower before the plant is fully developed. 

FURCRyEA. A genus of plants closely allied to the Agaves. 
There are about ten species in cultivation; those most commonly 
seen are F. ciibensis, F. gigantea and F. longcEva. The variegated form 
of F. gigantea is an exceedingly handsome subject. 

Culture. They thrive with a little more heat than is usually 
given Century Plants, otherwise their cultivation is nearly the 
same. 

Propagation. They are easily increased from the large number 
of bulbels produced while in flower. 

GARDENIA (Cape Jessamine). Within recent years the 
Gardenia jasminoides has come rapidly into popular favor. Years 
ago this plant was altogether grown in private establishments, 
usually in very large pots or tubs. As a rule its cultivation was not 
as successful as it is today by the bench system; the plants were 
formerly favorite breeding places for mealy bug and scale insects, 
and except in rare instances they did not pay for the trouble be- 
stowed on them. The successful method of treatment accorded to 
this plant at the present time is much the same as that given to 
Roses on benches. 

Culture. The soil best adapted to their requirements does not 
materially differ from that which is best suited to Roses. The soil 
should not be over 4 inches in depth. Exposure to light is one of 
the main requisites. The atmosphere should be more moist than 
that usually given Roses. Weak manure water should be given 
every two weeks. The fertilizer known as Scotch soot seems to work 
wonders with this plant. It is scattered on the surface of the bed 
once every two weeks, the quantity being about a thumb potful to 
every square foot of surface. However, there is danger of overfeed- 
ing during dull weather. The first lot of flowers may be expected 
early in October, with the heaviest crop about the end of the year. 
Each plant may be expected to give about ten flowers when the 
plants are about 14 inches apart. A southern exposure is desirable 
to prevent rank growth and to firm the wood. Long stems to the 
flowers are assured by removing the growth in the axils of the leaves 
when the plants are in the beds. The essentials are: Do not 
overwater, do not overfeed, have the minimum temperature about 
65 degrees F., keep the plants free from insects. Longer stems are 
secured and flower buds laid down bv removing the growth in the 



126 PLANT CULTURE 

axils of the leaves when plants are making growth. Syringe fre- 
quently, keeping the atmosphere on the humid side. Keep down 
insect pests by frequent fumigations. 

Propagation. Old plants, however, should never be grown, as 
they are prone to give flowers with short stems, while plants propa- 
gated annually give long stems and more flowers to the square foot 
of space. The best time to put in the cuttings is from the last half 
of February to the middle of March. The temperature of the propa- 
gating house should run from 65 to 70 degrees at night with a bottom 
heat of at least 75 degrees. Wood for cuttings should be selected 
which is moderately firm. From the terminal bud to the base the 
cutting should be about t)/^ inches long; the sand should be sharp 
and free from impurities. In from two to three weeks the cuttings 
will have formed a sufficient quantity of roots; they are then potted 
in 23/2-inch pots and subsequently placed in 4-inch, from which size 
they are planted out in the benches in June. It is essential that the 
plants be kept growing right along from the rooted cutting to the 
flowering period. 

GERBERA (The Transvaal Daisy). This beautiful Acanthus- 
leaved Daisy, Gerbera Jamesoni, was introduced from the Trans- 
vaal, South Africa. The flowers are large and range in color from 
pure white to yellow, orange, pink, scarlet, crimson and violet. The 
flowers are often borne upon 20-inch stems and last for several 
weeks without losing their brilliance. 

Culture. The forcing is very simple, being similar to that of 
Lily of the Valley. The roots are trimmed down to 20 inches and 
the plants are set close together into boxes or deep pots filled with 
porous soil. The chief requirements are good bottom heat, sun- 
light, not too much humidity and good ventilation. The buds de- 
velop within two weeks, and after another week the first blooms 
may be cut; while these are not very large, they increase in size as 
the plant continues to grow. After the forcing, the Gerberas are 
again planted into outdoor beds and, if strong enough, can be 
divided in the Fall and again forced. 

Propagation. An important consideration in the culture is 
the fact that Gerbera seed retains its vitaHty for about three, or the 
most four months. If the seed can be obtained in the Spring, it 
should be sown at once and covered, with glass. When large enough 
the seedlings are transplanted into small pots and from them to the 
open ground when weather permits. They will bloom in the Sum- 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 127 

mer. They can be repotted in the Fall and wintered in a cool house 
or forced. 

GLOXINIA. The flowers of the Gloxinia {Sinningia speciosa) 
are large, rich blooms of many different colors and shades. The 
foliage also is beautiful and the plant as a whole makes a valuable 
addition to the warm house during Fall and early Winter. 

Culture. The Gloxinia is fond of leaf soil, and it may be used 
to the extent of one-half the bulk, loam, sand and cow manure mak- 
ing up the balance. They are not deep-rooting plants. Large seed 
pans should be provided for the full-sized tubers. Watering should 
be given the greatest care not only in the seedhng stage but at all 
times of the year. The foliage should never be allowed to become 
wet. The plants are liable to have small brownish spots appear upon 
the foliage as if it had been burned by the sun. The spots gradu- 
ally enlarge until the health of the plant suffers to such an extent as 
to stop the growth of the flower buds. Probably careless watering 
at the roots has something to do with the trouble. Each plant 
should be examined at least once a day, because the broad leaves 
lying over the surface of the soil are apt to hide a very dry ball; and 
if the plants go without water for any length of time when dry their 
usefulness is ended. They require an abundance of air while 
blooming and must be shaded from sunlight. After blooming, the 
leaves will ripen off and water should be given in just sufficient 
amount to keep the tubers alive. When they show signs of active 
growth in February repot and water lightly until sufficient roots 
are formed, when the water should be increased. 

Propagation. So easily do the leaves of the Gloxinia produce 
tubers when properly manipulated, that it seems a roundabout way 
to get up a supply of plants from seeds. The only drawback to the 
first-named method is that leaves are not always available in suffi- 
cient quantities for propagating purposes. When plants are wanted 
in bloom before mid-Summer, the seed should be sown in early 
Spring. The process of raising seedlings is simple enough; a little 
neglect, however, when in the younger stages of their growth, is 
very apt to occur, and that is the end of them. The seedlings are 
very fragile for some time after germinating, and if the soil gets a 
trifle too wet, or too dry, they suffer beyond repair. In preparing 
boxes or pans for seed, let the soil be very porous and light, leafmold 
largely predominating. Make very firm; give a watering, then sow; 
and if a covering be given it should be of the lightest possible nature. 
If the atmosphere gets at all dry, cover the receptacles with panes 



128 



PLANT CULTURE 




Primula obconica. — See page 149 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 129 

of glass, to prevent drying. If care be taken the seedlings may be 
allowed to grow until large enough to be potted off singly in 2-inch 
pots, or they may be pricked off thickly into boxes previous to pot- 
ting off. For flowering late in Summer or early in Fall, sowings may 
be made as late as the beginning of July. 

In propagating from the leaves, various methods are employed. 
The one most commonly in use is to take the entire leaf, make in- 
cisions in the under parts of the principal veins (or they may be cut 
through) ; lay the leaves fiat on the sand with the stalk buried, and 
give only enough water to prevent drying up. Small tubers will form 
at the incisions and at the end of the stalk. During this process no 
leaves are formed, and the tubers should be harvested and rested 
for the Winter in dry sand. This operation is best performed after 
mid-Summer. Another good method to get up stock of extra fine 
varieties from leaves is to cut them in sections resembling the 
letter V, the lower part to consist of at least an inch of the midrib, 
and the leaf cut obliquely to the margin. Treat them similarly to 
the triangular-shaped cuttings of the Rex Begonias, so far as potting 
them in the sand goes; but keep on the dry side while forming tubers. 
Smaller tubers are made by this method than if the leaves were laid 
flat on the sand; consequently it should only be used when it is de- 
sired to make the most of extra good kinds. Old tubers are suc- 
cessfully wintered over in the pots in which they have flowered; or, 
to save room, they may be taken from the pots, the soil removed, 
and stored in boxes of dry sand, keeping in a minimum temperature 
of 60 degrees. In starting, bring to the light and give water, potting 
up when about an inch of growth has been made. 

GREVILLEA (Silk Oak). The Grevillea robusfa is a first-class 
house plant, with leaves somewhat resembling the Ragweed. The 
plants are only of value in their younger stages of growth. 

Culture. The plants will stand the full sun. A cool greenhouse 
suits them in Winter. 

Propagation. Seeds are sown in March. Pot singly when quite 
small, and when in 3-inch pots plunge in a frame until large enough 
for 5 -inch pots. 

HAMELIA. A tender shrub very well suited for growing in 
tubs. When the plants are in good health they are covered with 
flowers during the greater part of Summer. H. patens, sometimes 
called Scarlet Bush, is the best species and well worth growing 
in the greenhouse. 

Propagation. Ripe wood in early Spring. 



I30 PLANT CULTURE 

HEDYCHIUM (Garland Flower). These have long been 
grown in conservatories, where plenty of room is at command. 
In small conservatories they are not desirable. H. coronarium has 
pure white, sweet-smelling flowers. H. Gardnerianum and its hybrid 
form are useful for planting near the margins of ponds, where their 
roots get an abundant water supply. They may be rested under a 
bench during Winter. 

Culture. After blooming, dry-off the rhizomes and allow them 
to rest for a while. Pot in Spring or early Summer and use rich soil. 
Give plenty of water; the pots may be set half their depth in water. 

Propagation. Divide the rhizomes every two or three years. 

HIBISCUS (Rose Mallow). The varieties of H. Rosa-sinensis 
make first-class tub plants. The varieties known as H. brilliantis- 
simus and H. grandiflorus are the best singles among the crimson 
varieties. There are double reds, yellows and pinks; among the 
latter is Peach Blossom. It has exceedingly attractive flowers; 
the name describes the color of the flower well. The plant blooms in 
a small state. 

Culture. When grown in tubs they need liberal feeding, being 
robust growers; and as the flowers are produced on the young wood 
there has to be an abundant supply of this to have them looking at 
their best. With the help of liquid manure bushes will thrive in 
the same tubs for years. All of the kinds delight in a soil having a 
fair proportion of leafmold. A quantity of crushed bone may be 
added when the plants have to occupy the pots or tubs for any 
length of time. The varieties of H. Rosa-sinensis should be given 
a trial out of doors; they grow and flower very luxuriantly. They 
may be kept during Winter in a structure from which frost is ex- 
cluded. In a low temperature, and kept dry at the roots, they are 
deciduous. 

Propagation. Autumn-struck cuttings, if grown on during 
Winter, will give 6-inch pot plants by Spring. 

HYDRANGEA. A highly ornamental shrub much forced for 
Easter and Memorial Day. They make handsome plants for 
decorative purposes. H. opuloides has been used most extensively, 
but the new French varieties are very popular and have stimulated 
interest in the forcing of Hydrangeas. Among the French varieties, 
General de Vibraye is a grand pink with good flower heads and 
forces well at all times. Mme. E. Mouillere is the most popular 
white. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 131 



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Hydrangea hortensis 



132 PLANT CULTURE 

Culture. The plants should be kept in a coldframe where, if 
properly protected from sudden changes, even a hard freezing in 
December will not harm them if they have been gradually hardened 
off. About Christmas they should be brought into the greenhouse 
and kept a week or ten days at about 45 degrees; then gradually 
moved to 50 and 55 degrees as they begin to grow. By the middle 
of January they should be showing some progress, and from that 
time forward they should have plenty of water and light. A tem- 
perature of 55 to 60 degrees should bring them along nicely for 
Easter. If backward in early March, a slightly higher temperature 
may be required, but should not be employed unless deemed abso- 
lutely necessary. Frequent syringing will be of great benefit. Field 
grown plants potted up in late October and weakly developed pot 
grown stock will not make satisfactory Easter plants, and should 
be saved for Memorial Day or later. 

Propagation. Hydrangea hortensis and its varieties may be 
propagated either in Spring or Fall. When the work is done in 
Spring the cuttings must be taken from plants which are being forced 
in the greenhouse, the wood of which is in excellent trim for the pro- 
duction of strong, healthy roots. Those shoots which show no signs 
of blooming are the ones to be taken for propagation. The cuttings 
root very readily if given a syringing overhead two or three times 
daily. Pot in 3-inch pots and plant out from these about the middle 
of May. Or the plants may be potted into 5-inch pots and plunged 
in well-rotted stable manure. They are, however, easier looked after 
in the field, and there make plants every bit as good. Moreover, 
when lifted and potted they can be given fresh soil, which will suit 
them when taken into force in the beginning of the year; whereas 
those in pots may not require shifting, so far as their size is concerned, 
and yet be benefited by fresh soil. Where Hydrangeas will stand 
the Winter some of each kind should be planted out permanently, 
so as to give an abundant supply of material for cuttings. These 
cuttings should be taken during the Autumn months, encouraged to 
fill their pots with roots, and then go to rest. When given a shift 
from 3-inch into 5-inch pots, and brought gradually into warmth, 
they develop very large heads of bloom, and toward the latter part 
of their development liquid manure is necessary. 

INGA, For flowering in a cool greenhouse during March and 
April, but only in roomy structures, there are few things to surpass 
/. pulcherrima in the brilliancy of the flowers. These are arranged 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 133 

in heads with an enormous number of stamens, which are the prin- 
cipal attraction. 

Propagation. Take cuttings in February. 

IXORA. This is hardly a genus for the florist to deal with, as 
the plants take more care than the prices obtained for them would 
permit. There are numerous species and varieties, all of which are 
attractive when well done. In the latitude of Washington, D. C, 
they make growth best when plunged outside, and some of them 
flower profusely out of doors. /. Co/ei is a good white; /. Williamsii, 
I, coccinea and /. Chelsonii are all very reliable species. 

Culture. They will thrive in the warmest house during Win- 
ter. Peat, sand, and a little loam will make a suitable soil. 

Propagation. Cuttings should be put in during March. 

JACOBINIA (Libonia). This is a charming Winter-flowering, 
dwarf evergreen shrub. The species, /. penrhosiensis , is one of the 
commonest Jacobinias grown. 

Culture. Its culture is of the easiest description, and almost 
any soil will suit the plant. They are suited to conditions for grow- 
ing Begonias. 

Propagation. Put cuttings in the warm propagating bed 
during the latter part of February; plant out middle of May to make 
growth; lift middle of September and flower in a moderately warm 
greenhouse. 

JASMINUM (Jasmines). Although there are other meritori- 
ous species, /. grandiflorum, primulinum and nudijiorum are the 
ones usually grown. 

Culture. Plant out the young stock in May, and by the end 
of September they should be lifted and potted. Keep in an inter- 
mediate house. The plants will stand full sunshine, and are of easy 
culture. 

Propagation. They may be propagated either by layers or 
cuttings of nearly mature wood. 

KENT! A (Howea). Two of the best kinds are Kentta Bel- 
moreana and K. Forsteriana; they are useful either for house plants 
or decorating. When they reach a desirable size they should be 
kept on the cool side, as they will then be less liable to injury when 
used. (See also Palms.) 

Ly^LIA. Lalia anceps, the principal species, makes its growth 
from April onward. It is an abundant bloomer, but on account of 



134 PLANT CULTURE 

its resemblance to some of the Cattleyas, and having smaller 
flowers, it is not so popular. Flowers in November and December. 
A temperature of 50 degrees suits them. 

LATANIA. The best known of all the fan Palms, L. Conimer- 
sonii {borbonica) should be grown under the same conditions all the 
time, otherwise some of the leaf stems will be short and others long, 
making an unsymmetrical specimen. (See also Palms.) 

LIPPIA (Aloysia). L. ciiriodora, the Lemon Verbena, grows 
very strongly when planted out, finishing up the season by covering 
itself with myriads of small, insignificant flowers. It is a very popu- 
lar plant, on account of its sweet-smelling leaves, being almost 
identical in this respect with those of the lemon grass and Eucalyptus 
citriodora. 

Culture. The plants may be grown in the field in Summer and 
brought into the greenhouse upon the approach of frost and there 
kept cool until February, when they may be repotted, pruned, and 
grown at a temperature of about 55 degrees. 

Propagation. As the plants are not hardy, keep some old plants 
over Winter; start them early in Spring and root the growths as soon 
as they get long enough, in warm sand bed. 

LIVISTONA (Chinese Fan Palm). The common species, 
Livistona rotundifolia, makes a very neat, little specimen plant. 
The foHage is of a bright green color. This Palm grows best in a 
warm house. L. Jenkinsiana is not much used as a decorative plant, 
but it is one of the most desirable for collections. (See also Palms.) 

LOPEZIA (Mosquito Plant). L. racemosa makes an ex- 
ceedingly weedy growth outside in Summer. This plant is desirable 
only for private collections. 

Propagation. Cuttings put in the beginning of September, 
and the plants kept in a sunny greenhouse with a minimum tem- 
perature of 45 degrees, will give an amazing supply of bloom all 
Winter. 

MAHERNIA (Honey Bell). M. glabrala is a dense-growing, 
dwarf evergreen shrub, with small, yellow flowers produced in Win- 
ter. The flowers have an odor much resembhng that of the Violet. 
M. verticillata is also frequently found in conservatories. 

Propagation. The cuttings should be made large, at l^ast 6 
inches in length. They should be taken before growth begins. 
The roots are sparingly produced. Put the rooted cuttings at the 
sides of the pots, so that they will take'easily with the soil. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 135 

MALVAVISGUS. M. mollis and M. arhoreus are greenhouse 
plants which in Winter take up too much room as specimens, and 
should not be grown for that purpose, as the flowers are not freely 
produced. For outdoor planting they are good subjects, making a 
large mass of foliage and bright red flowers. The M. 
lanceolatus, from Mexico, is the best for Winter flowering. The 
leaves are different in shape from those of the two first-named 
species, and it blooms more freely. 

Culture. It stands a low temperature and is free from insects. 
Propagation. Cuttings of all three root with the treatment 
given Coleus. 

MARANTA. Most of the conservatory sorts known as Maranta 
are really Calathca. Of this genus M . arundinacea is commonly 
grown. When well grown they are among the most ornamental 
foliaged plants in cultivation. 

Culture. (See Calathea, page 77.) 

Propagation. By division of the crowns, when starting into 
growth in Spring. 

MARGUERITE (See Paris Daisy, page 145.) 

MEDINILLA. This magnificent flowering plant must have a 
high temperature, and should be in every collection of stove plants. 
The flowers are arranged in large, drooping racemes. M. magnifica 
is the species most commonly seen. 

Culture. Give plenty of light but not too strong sunshine. 
Pot in sharp sand and fibrous loam with a little charcoal added. 
Water freely, but be sure to provide good drainage. A temperature 
of 68 degrees is necessary at night while in active growth. 

Propagation. Cuttings root well when placed in a pot of loose 
moss, in a warm frame, or on a well-shaded bench of a warm house. 

METROSIDEROS. These plants are grown for their showy 
red and white flowers and their long stamens. M. robusta and M. 
iomentosa are two of the better known species. 

Culture. They thrive under conditions suited to Acacias. 

Propagation. By cuttings struck in early Spring. 

MIMOSA. It is always interesting to have a small bed of sen- 
sitive plants. One can be made cheaply, as there are enough avail- 
able plants for the purpose, such as the common sensitive plants 
M. pudica and M. sensitiva. Sclirankia uncinata is found plentifully 



136 



PLANT CULTURE 




Boston Yellow Marguerite, or Paris Daisy, in a 7-in. pot. 

See page 145 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 137 

in the Southern States. For five or ten cents we get packets of seeds 
of the Moving Plant Desmodium gyrans. When Oxalis sensitiva and 
O. dendroides are touched with the finger the leaflets fall down. 
Mimosa pudica, on the other hand, when touched, closes up. 
There are several other sorts, but the above number is enough to 
make this bed very popular, especially among school children. 

Culture. The culture is of the easiest. 

Propagation. All are easily raised from seeds offered by 
European seedsmen. 

MONSTERA. There are several excellent house plants 
which are very little known, on account of the difficulty experienced 
in propagating them in sufficient quantities. Among the best of 
this class is the Monstera, a subject almost unique in the plant 
kingdom, owing to the broad leaves having perforations all over 
their surfaces. M. deliciosa is the species most commonly grown. 

Culture. It needs little pot room, but plenty of water; in fact, 
the pot may be placed in a saucer of water. The question of soil is 
not important, but will do best in a bed of rich soil. It will continue 
to throw up leaf after leaf in a dwelling house just as well as if in a 
conservatory, the bright emerald green of the young leaves con- 
trasting well with the deeper color of the older ones. 

Propagation. The easiest method of propagation is to cut up 
the old stems to single eyes, and place in sand, in a warm house, 
where the cuttings sprout in a few weeks. 

MUSA (Banana). There are a number of species grown in 

conservatories and others are useful for sub-tropical bedding. M. 

Uranoscopos (coccinea) may be grown in large pots and is very 

decorative because of its brilliant red bracts. It is dwarf and needs 

stove temperature. (For additional species see p. 287.) 

MUSSy^NDA. A handsome warm greenhouse plant, cultivated 
for its colored bract-like growth. M. Jrondosa and M, luteola are 
two of the better known species. 

Culture. They are of easy culture. 

Propagation. In Spring by cuttings. 

NEPENTHES (East India Pitcher Plants). In their native 
habitats they grow as vines. Under cultivation they are usually 
seen as dwarf, pot or basket plants. Many beautifully marked hy- 
brids have been raised in recent years; these are, as a rule, easiest 
grown. N. M aster siana is one of the best; A''. Dominii, N. 



138 PLANT CULTURE 

Henryana, N. Williamsli, N. Ouframiana, N. Siebrechtii and 
N. Amesiana are all well worth growing. 

Culture. Nepenthes are very suitable for suspending from the 
roof of a greenhouse, as then the curiously-shaped appendages, or 
"pitchers," at the ends of the leaves are best seen. Moreover, some 
of the kinds have long leaves, and when the pitchers are half filled 
with liquid they hang lower than the base of the pot or basket. In 
this case the plants must be suspended from the roof. Their cultiva- 
tion, with the exception of a few species, is not difficult. There are 
between 30 and 40 species, found principally in the East Indian 
Islands. The temperature should not fall below 65 degrees at any 
time of the year, and from this it may rise to 90 degrees with safety. 
At all times, these plants should be grown with as little ventilation 
as possible, as under those conditions growth will be more vigor- 
ous and a heavier crop of pitchers will be the result. 

Pruning is a very important matter in their cultivation. With 
the possible exception of N. hicalcarata, none of the kinds should be 
allowed to grow over a foot high. When a few pitchers have been 
formed, or are forming on a shoot, cut the end out; this will very 
materially help in the development of those in process of formation, 
and will cause new shoots to burst out on which more pitchers will 
be borne. The material in which to grow Nepenthes should consist 
of fibrous peat and sphagnum in equal parts. Charcoal, crushed 
bone and sand in small quantities may be added. During the grow- 
ing season the plants must never be allowed to get dry at the roots. 
One- and two-year-old specimens are the most satisfactory, although 
some of the kinds will keep in good condition as long as they have 
good material in which to make fresh roots. Shade during bright 
sunshine, and syringe frequently. The sexes are on different plants, 
and so far as I have observed all the species and varieties will inter- 
cross. 

Propagation. Seeds are sown on a finely prepared surface of 
chopped moss, covered with glass. As soon as they can be handled 
the seedlings are pricked off in small pots. Cuttings should be taken 
from the half -ripened shoots about the beginning of December; they 
should be cut to single eyes only when a large number of plants are 
wanted. Terminal growths, short and stocky, make the finest 
plants, and in a much shorter time than single-eye cuttings. In a 
propagating frame, with a bottom heat of 80 degrees, plunge the 
cuttings in sphagnum; they may be either pushed through the hole 
of an inverted thumb pot or put in small pots, using a rooting me- 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 139 

diurn composed of sphagnum, sand and charcoal. I much prefer the 
first method. 

NERIUM (Oleander). Much grown as a tub plant, for which 
it is well suited. Old plants should be kept as dormant as possible 
during the Winter. 

Propagation. Cuttings are rooted early in the season, and 
plunged outside when established in pots. 

NERTERA (Bead Plant). The only species of importance is 
N. depressa. If we desire to have something of real beauty in the 
cool greenhouse a few small tufts of this close-growing dwarf plant 
will satisfy most people. It never grows over 2 inches in height, 
but it is usually covered with myriads of orange-red berries. 

Culture. When not in bloom or in fruit it will be best to place 
the plants under the bench of the greenhouse where, especially if 
the pots are plunged, they will keep in a healthy condition. It re- 
quires a sandy soil with a little leafmold. 

Propagation. It may be propagated either by seed or division. 

OCHNA. 0. midtiflora is an interesting and beautiful cool 
greenhouse shrub. The flowers are yellow. The calyx, at first 
green, changes to a brilliant red on the ripening of the fruit. 

Culture. It requires a soil of fibrous loam with good drainage. 

Propagation. Propagated by cuttings taken in the Fall. 

ODONTOGLOSSUM. With the exception of O. ciirosmum 
the species of this noble genus have a struggle for existence in the 
District of Columbia. Farther north they succeed better. 0. cris- 
pum is one of the most popular, of which there are many beautiful 
varieties. 

Culture. The Odontoglossums are cool house Orchids, 65 de- 
grees, and the main difficulty of their culture results from injury 
due to high Summer temperature. They require abundant ventila- 
tion, good light, but some shade. 

ODONTONEMA (Thyrsacanthus). O. Schomburgkianum is 
a shrubby plant attaining a height of 6 feet. There is nothing just 
quite like it with its graceful long sprays of red flowers all during the 
season. These plants are very seldom seen in gardens of amateurs 
because, like many other things, they cannot be sold to plant-lovers 
in public markets unless they are in flower. 



140 



PLANT CULTURE 




Plant of Cattle ya 

Showing Air Roots 

and pseudobulbs. 

(See Page 89) 

Figure 15 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 141 

Culture. They are adapted to the warm house and are of easy 
culture. 

Propagation. They are propagated easily by cuttings. 

ONCIDIUM. 0. varicosum and 0. v. Rogersii bear large panicles 
of pale yellow flowers. Both are natives of Brazil, blooming during 
early Winter. 

Culture. Same as Odontoglossum. 

ORCHIDS. Although there is an immense number of species 
and forms of Orchids, few of them are grown solely for their cut 
flowers. The following genera of Orchids are discussed elsewhere 
in this book: Calanthe, Cattleya, Coelogyne, Cypripedium, Dendro- 
bium, Lalia, Odontoglossum, Oncidium, Phalanopsis and Vanda. 
Most of them produce flowers but sparingly, and are chiefly grown 
in private collections. A large number being hyrbids, very few of 
each kind are in cultivation; only those species and their varieties 
which are procurable in large quantities from their native haunts are 
grown for cutting from. Under favorable circumstances, and when 
their wants are understood, Orchids are as easily grown as any 
other class of plants. The epiphytal class has a growing and a rest- 
ing period. During growth, as a rule, they need lots of water, and 
when resting they are kept on the dry side so as not to start shoots 
at the expense of the flowers. Shading is necessary as the sun gets 
powerful, and a stagnant atmosphere must be avoided at all times. 
Excellent general notes on Orchids are found in the Standard Cyclo- 
pedia of Horticulture, Vol. IV. 

Potting Material. This is mainly to supply a reservoir for 
moisture during the growing period, and should consist of chopped 
Fern roots, at least six months old before using, live sphagnum, 
charcoal and broken pots. If grown in pots or pans these should be 
filled two-thirds with crocks, the plant elevated above the rim of 
the pot, using lumps of the Fern root, pieces of charcoal and finishing 
off with a thin layer of live sphagnum. The best time to pot is before 
the plants start growth. 

PALMS. This order furnishes the most important of our 
decorative plants. Out of the large number of known species, com- 
paratively few are in cultivation, and of these a very limited number 
is grown by the florist for this special line of work. Those kinds 
which are raised in quantity are selected partly because they are 
easily and quickly grown, seeds being obtainable in large quantities, 
and because the plants are exceedingly ornamental, and, as a rule, 



142 



PLANT CULTURE 




Cocos Weddelliana 

COURTESY HENRY A. DREER, INC., PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

stand rough usage, to a certain extent, without showing bad effects. 
Palms may be divided into two sections — those with pinnate or 
feathered leaves and those with palmate or fan-shaped leaves. 
Latania, Livistona, Chamaerops, Rhapis, Corypha, Licuala and 
Thrinax are familiar examples of the section having fan-shaped 
leaves; while the feather-leaved section is represented byKentia, 
Phoenix, Areca, Arenga, Cocos, and Seaforthia. The commercial 
kinds are grown very extensively by several firms, and so 
cheaply are they offered that it does not pay to raise the seedlings 
in small quantities. For collections rather lengthy lists of species 
are offered by several European seedsmen. The genera discussed 
elsewhere in this book are: Acanthophoenix, Attalea, Chrysalido- 
carpus, Chamaerops, Cocos, Kentia, Latania, Livistona and 
Phoenix, Besides these, Euterpe edulis, Rhapis flabellijormis and 



GREENHOUSE AND C(3NSERVAT0RY PLANTS 143 

hutnilis, Ceroxylon andicolum, Stevensotiia grandijlora, Licuala 
grandis and Caryota urens are also grown in collections. 

Culture. In this section of the country nearly all of the species 
make rapid growth out of doors during the Summer after they have 
reached a certain stage, say in 6-inch pots. They are plunged in 
half-decayed stable litter and partly shaded with lath slats. Large- 
sized plants will bear the full sun, but not when taken directly from 
the greenhouse. When it is desired that plants shall occupy the 
same pots for any length of time, very little, if any, vegetable humus 
should be among the soil. Crushed bone and a little charcoal will 
be found beneficial. 

Propagation. The seeds should be covered to about twice 
their thickness in sandy soil and kept fairly moist and warm until 
they germinate. The drainage in the seed pan should be of such a 
nature that the roots can be easily removed from it, as very little 
is gained by potting in a very young stage. 

PANDANUS. There are several variegated Screw Pines, but 
none approaching P. Veitchii as a commercial plant. No one will 
dispute its right to a place among the best twelve decorative plants; 
in fact, most people would put it in a shorter list. As a bedder it 
stands our warmest weather without the least shade. (See page 288.) 
As a dwelling house plant it has no superior, and as a stove plant, 
owing to its beautifully striped leaves, it tends to relieve the dull 
monotony of green. There are good and bad forms common in cul- 
tivation; those to be avoided have mono-colored leaves, and leaves 
with dirty white variegation. The good one has almost pure white 
markings. P. utills is a green-leaved species, forming very hand- 
some plants even in small pots. It stands well in a dwelling house, 
but, like P. Veitchii, must be kept on the dry side during the rest- 
ing period. P. utilis is raised from seeds which, if fresh, germinate 
well. The soil for both kinds should be porous and enriched with 
a small quantity of bonemeal. 

There are several other species, none of them grown largely, be- 
ing principally found in collections. P. tectorius (javanicus) varie- 
gatus is quite as handsome as P. Veitchii, but needs more heat in 
Winter, and the hooked spines pointing two ways on each leaf 
is a feature very much against it. P. Baptistii is a handsome 
variegated plant, but too soft for use outside of a warm greenhouse. 
The true P. graminifolius is not of much use outside of collections. 

Culture. These plants are perfectly at home under Palm- 
house conditions and thrive in much heat and plenty of water. 



144 



PLANT CULTURE 





GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 145 

From January on, they start active growth and must be given 
suitable conditions by damping down the paths and benches several 
times a day. In potting use a compost consisting of four parts 
loam, one part leafmold, one part decayed manure and a little sand. 
In Autumn and early Winter, when they are in their inactive stage, 
decrease the amount of moisture, but give plenty of sunlight. 

Propagation. In selecting stock plants take those which show 
lateral growths at or near the base of the plant. Large lateral 
growths do not make good specimens, but they should be rooted 
for subsequent use as stock plants. In rooting it will be found a good 
method to put each piece into a pot of sand and plunge in a propa- 
gating bed having a brisk bottom heat. The large, succulent and 
easily broken roots which the cuttings make, being confined within 
the pots, will be nicely preserved by shaking out the sand and re- 
placing it with soil, or by being shifted into larger pots, as the cut- 
tings will keep many weeks in the sand after roots are made without 
injury. Stock plants, which get too large and have an abundance 
of grassy side shoots, will be encouraged to develop those if the 
young leaves of the main growth be torn out. Young plants, 
plunged out of doors after the end of May, should be examined from 
time to time, as the roots are apt to get outside the pots; larger sized 
pots should then be given and the plants replunged. 

PARIS DAISIES (Chrysanthemum frutescens). For Win- 
ter blooming the cuttings should be put in during late Spring. By 
the end of July they should get their last potting for the Summer, 
be pinched back and plunged so as to make large heads for Winter- 
flowering. These Daisies can be made to pay during the dull 
months from the number of flowers which can be cut from them. 
They are not so common as they might be, and Daisies in Winter 
are very desirable flowers with some people. Large plants are useful 
about Easter time. Left over plants in Spring can be planted out 
to furnish cuttings for Fall propagation, to give medium sized 
plants in flower for early Spring sales. 

PAULLINIA. P. thalictrijolia is an elegant plant for clothing 
the tops of unsightly tubs in which Palms and other plants are grow- 
ing, and is also useful for large vases. It stands the sun well. The 
foliage somewhat resembles the leaves of Adiantums. 

Culture. Pinch the tops to make young plants branch out. 
Propagation. Cuttings root best in September in the warm 
propagating bed. 

PELARGONIUM (See page 288.) 



146 



PLANT CULTURE 



PEPEROMIA. Useful little plants with peltate leaves, finely 
marked with bands of white between the principal veins. Peperomia 
Safidersii is grown either for filling shallow pans, mixed with other 
plants, or as specimen plants for the window. P. maculosa and P. 
marmorata are also well worth growing. 




Fig. 16. — Leaf cuttings of Peperomia. A, Simple cutting of Peperomia SandersU. 
B, A leaf properly cut prepared for making a leaf cutting. C, The growth from such a 
■cutting as B. The young plantlet starts from a callus at the base of the leaf stem, 

or petiole. 



Culture. Give plenty of water in Summer, but water carefully 
in Winter. They are best in a warm, shaded greenhouse. 

Propagation. Propagation is effected at any time of the year by 
l^lacing entire leaves edgewise or flat in sand. 

PERESKTA. These are seldom grown for their value as deco- 
rative subjects. The flowers of several of the species are of a rather 
pleasing appearance, but they last only a short time and are not 
freely produced. Two of the species, P. aculeata and P. grandijolia, 
are common in cultivation, and are used chiefly as stocks for the 
gaudy flowered Epiphyllums. 

Culture. (See Epiphyllum, page IL3.)' 

Propagation. (See Epiphyllum.) 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 147 

PHALi^NOPSIS. This genus of Orchids is characterized by- 
having flat, strap-like leaves, leathery and thick, with large, attrac- 
tive flowers. P. amabilis, a white sort, and P. Schilleriana, a pink 
species, are the principal ones cultivated. Keep the plants from 
drafts and give plenty of heat, 70-75 degrees, from March to 
October. They grow nicely on blocks of wood hung upon the 
rafters. 

PHCENIX (Date Palm). The commonest conservatory species 
are P. rupico/a, P. canariensls and P. Roebelenii. The edible Date, 
P. daclylifera, is not S3 graceful for indoor cultivation. (See also 
Palms, page 142.) 

PHORMIUM (New Zealand Flax). P. tenax and its forms 
are rather stiff-looking plants, especially in a young state; older 
plants furnished with an abundance of foliage are more attractive. 

Culture. They require a rich soil and plenty of water. 

Propagation. To increase, plant out in very sandy soil in 
May and divide in September. 

PHYLLAGATHIS. P. rotundifolia belongs to the same family 
as the better known Tococa platyphylla. It somewhat resembles 
the former in general appearance. A few plants of it given a test 
outside during the Summer, in a position partly shaded from the 
sun, behaved splendidly, and in a position like the above, where the 
surface of the soil is covered with some low-growing plant, such as 
Hydrocotyle or Lysimachia to keep the sun from the roots, it may 
become a valuable feature for outdoor decoration. But for indoors, 
it may be used as a substitute for the more gaudy-leaved Tococa, 
as it succeeds in an atmosphere where the majority of greenhouse 
plants can be grown. 

Culture. The following temperatures are required: December 
and January, 60 degrees; February and March, 65 degrees; March 
to end of Summer, high temperature. Increase the syringing with 
the temperature. 

Propagation. Propagation for small plants is by the leaf, the 
petiole of which is inserted in sand, the blade lying flat on the sur- 
face and the rijjs severed in several places. From the cut parts 
nearest the petiole, numerous small growths are made; these, when 
an inch or so high, may be potted. For making specimen plants 
quickly old subjects which have been encouraged to branch may 
be cut up, and the pieces inserted in pots in bottom heat. They 
send out roots very quickly. 



148 PLANT CULTURE 

PHYLLANTHUS (Snow Bush). P. nivosus is a shrub hardly 
suitable as florists' plants, but for public or private establishments 
they should alwa3'S be grown, as their foliage, in a young state es- 
pecially, is most beautifully colored even when grown in the open 
air during Summer. In this latitude we plant therfl out along with 
other bedding material; they are exceedingly effective. 

Culture. The old plants are cut back severely in Autumn, 
potted and stored in a rather warm house. 

Propagation. In February cuttings of the medium thick wood 
are taken, and rooted in strong heat. 

PLUMBAGO. Two sorts commonly treated as greenhouse 
plants are P. capensis, a light blue, and P. rosea var. coccinea, a 
scarlet. They bloom after mid-Summer on the current year's growth. 
Our warm Summers are very favorable to its growth out of doors, 
and it certainly ought to be largely grown for this purpose, as there 
is no other plant than P. capensis which can supply the color (light 
blue) so abundantly. There is a white-flowered form which goes 
well with the blue one, but this should not be confounded with P. 
zeylanica — a worthless species. 

Propagation. Plants from Fall struck cuttings w411 be large 
enough by planting out time to fill 4-inch pots, and they ought to 
be planted out from this size for early blooming, as younger plants 
are too apt to make growth instead of flower. The best flowering 
plants are those which have been wintered over in a dormant state, 
the larger the better; by mid-Summer they are a solid mass of 
bloom. 

PLUMERIA. This class of plants is somewhat neglected. We 
see them only in places where a general collection of stove and 
greenhouse plants are grown, and yet their flowers are large, showy 
and sweet smelling. The stems and foliage have an ornamental 
character of their own. The species grown is P. acuiifolia. 

Culture. They make very rapid growth in Summer, being well 
suited for tub culture. The plants should be kept dry during 
Winter. The leaves will fall off early, and the pots or tubs in which 
the plants grow may be laid on their sides under the bench of a 
greenhouse. 

Propagation. In propagating, which may be done best during 
February, the cuttings may be taken from 6 inches to a foot long; 
stand them upright or leaning against the back part of the propagat- 
ing bench, but not with the bases buried in the sand. Nor should 
they be allowed any water for a week or two. After the cut part is 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 149 

well healed over they may be potted in almost dry sand, in which 
they root quickly if put in a brisk heat. 

PRIMULA (Primrose). In this place only the sorts used in 
greenhouses are discussed. (For outdoor sorts see page 211.) 

Primula sinensis has not by any means been left behind in the 
improvement of florists' flowers. The latest strains put on the market 
would almost be taken for new species by those who only knew the 
plants of years ago. P. sinensis, although losing favor in some 
sections, is a popular Wintei -blooming plant. 

Propagation: The seed may be sown as early as the last of 
March to have plants in 5- and 6-inch pots in bloom before Christ- 
mas. Later sowings should also be made, but it should be borne in 
mind that the plants make their best growth during cool weather. 
They may be summered in a well-aired and shaded frame. 

Primula ohconica has been evolved from the rather inconspicu- 
ous flower of the type to one worthy of standing alongside those of 
the finest strains of Primula sinensis. P. 0. grandiflora fimhriata 
are heavily fringed, and range from pure white to deep rose. The 
largest individual flowers are a little short of being an inch and a 
half in diameter. The plants are exceedingly floriferous; some in 
6-inch pots have the foHage almost hidden by bloom. (See p. 128.) 

Propagation: To have plants in flower by the first of the year 
the seeds should be sown as early in the season as possible. Cover 
the seed very lightly with finely screened sphagnum, moistening 
the surface whenever it shows signs of becoming dry. As soon as 
large enough to handle the seedUngs may be either potted off singly, 
or placed around the edge of a 3- or 4-inch pot previous to giving 
them their first pots. During the Summer the seedlings should be 
shaded from the sun and never allowed to get dry. They do not 
make much headway during the very hot months. The plants will 
not suffer if given their last shift just as they are coming into bloom. 
Keep in the coolest house 

P. Forbesii is an interesting species because of the enormous 
number of flowers produced on even small plants Several plants 
may be potted together in shallow pans. 

P. malacoides, the Fairy Primrose, was introduced in 1908 from 
China. It is perennial, but by the florist is treated as an annual. 
It somewhat resembles P. Forbesii, but is larger flowered and more 
branchy in growth. The flowers are lilac and rose. (See p. 123.) 

Propagation: It is a most dainty species, blooming in Winter 
if the seeds are sown in the Spring; or if the seeds are sown in July 



I50 PLANT CULTURE 

and the first flowers kept picked the plants may be made to 
bloom nicely in the Spring; still later sowings in September will give 
plants for Easter and after. It requires an abundance of water and 
cool conditions, 55 degrees, and in this respect differs from P. sinensis. 
P. malacoides is excellent for cut flowers, for table decorations, bridal 
bouquets and corsages, as well as a good pot plant. 

P. floribunda with small yellow flowers has a very floriferous 
form named P. f. Isabellina; the flowers are creamy white. This 
species is more compact and smaller than P. kewensis. 

P. kewensis, possibly a hybrid between P. floribunda and P. 
verticillata, bears yellow flowers and well grown plants serve a need 
for some yellow plant for Winter. The stems are covered with a 
white mealiness. Given the same culture as P. obconica, the plants 
succeed nicely. 

Lemoine has introduced a variety, La Lorraine, which is a cross 
between P. Veitchii and P. cortusoides. It is of vigorous habit with 
rich fohage. The leaves are of medium size, with indentated edge 
and very hairy on the reverse. The numerous flower stalks, which 
reach a height of 8 inches, are stiff and hairy, and bear trusses of 
20 to 25 blooms each, i^ inches across, of a fine crimson pink with 
large, bright yellow eye, and of sweet perfume. Lemoine expressed 
the hope that this would be the forerunner of a new race. 

Primula hybrida Ville de Nancy is a product of the same cross; 
its leaves resemble those of La Lorraine, though somewhat less hairy 
on the reverse. The truss is of elegant shape, and the florets of new 
form, deeply indented and toothed. The color is a bright crimson 
purple, with yellow eye. It has a slight perfume. Both of these 
Primulas bid fair to become popular commercial plants. 

Pollinating Primula Flowers. Any extra good forms of 
Primula sinensis or P. obconica, desirable on account of large flow- 
ers, shape, or color, should be set aside for seed. During the Winter 
months, when insects are scarce, pollinating will have to be done by 
hand, as it is rarely the case that a flower of Primula is fertilized by 
its own pollen. For seed plants preference should be given to those 
having the pistil protruding from the corolla tube. It may be stated 
that Primroses have two kinds of flowers, each kind on separate 
plants, one having what is called the style elongated until the 
stigma shows plainly from the mouth of the tube formed by the 
bases of the petals, while the stamens are attached near the bottom 
of this tube. In the other flower the positions of the organs are re- 
versed, the style being shortened so that the stigma is more than 
half way down the tube, and the stamens are in full view near the 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 151 

mouth of the tube exactly in the position occupied by the stigma 
of the long-styled flower. The pollen of the Primrose is ripe before 
the petals are expanded, but at this stage the stigma of the same 
flower is not in a condition to receive it. Those flowers having 
elongated styles are easiest to manipulate, and if I am not mistaken, 
they are the best seed bearers. Pollen, from either short or long- 
styled flowers, may be applied to the stigmas. When it is necessary 
to pollinate those with short styles, it is, of course, impossible to get 
at the stigmas with a small brush, owing to the anthers filHng the 
mouth of the corolla tube, but with a pair of small scissors the corolla 
tube may be snapped in two immediately below that part to which 
the stamens are attached, thus giving easy ingress to the stigma. 
Keep the atmosphere as dry as possible while fertilization is taking 
place. 

REINWARDTIA (Linum). R. trigyna and R. tetragyna are 
both desirable Winter-flowering plants. R. trigyna is the best 
known; the other one has light yellow flowers and is the most 
floriferous. 

Culture. They may be planted outside, middle of May, and 
lifted during the end of September, if large specimens are required 
for the greenhouse; or from cuttings rooted in April they may be 
grown on in pots, pinching occasionally. 

Propagation. They are increased by cuttings from the strong 
growths which start from the base when the plant is cut down. 
R. trigyna is the only one which sseds freely. 

RHIPSALIS. There are over a dozen species of this curious 
genus in cultivation. They are interesting because of their long 
hanging growths and berries resembling those of the Mistletoe. 

Culture. They are best grown along with Cactus plants and 
will thrive under similar treatment. 

Propagation. They are very easily propagated by the use of 
cuttings. 

ROSES (See page 341.) 

RUELLIA. For a greenhouse plant for amateurs R. macrantha 
is one of the best. The flowers are very large, tubular-shaped and 
magenta in color. 

Propagation. Cuttings rooted in September will furnish fair- 
sized flowering plants by the end of January. These may be planted 
out end of May, in the open ground ; by the end of September they 
will have made considerable growth; and if large specimens are 
wanted they may be hfted and potted. 



152 



PLANT CULTURE 



RUSSELIA. Russelia juncea is an old plant but too seldom 
seen; it is probably the most useful of all our basket or vase plants. 
It sends out long arching branches of rush-like growths with flowers 
of an intense scarlet. Tlanted singly in vases there are few things 
to equal it in appearance. R. Lemoinel and R. elegantissima are both 
good. The flowers are smaller than those of R. juncea, but more 
of them are produced. The two latter are better Winter flowering 
plants than R. juncea. 

Culture. They are of easy cultivation. 

Propagation. To propagate, take a handful of shoots at a time 
and cut them into lengths of from 4 to 6 inches. In this way 200 
cuttings may be made with two strokes of the knife, and every one 
will root. 




Fig. 17. — Leaf Cutting of«Sansevieria 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 153 

SAINTPAULIA. S. ionantha is a very pretty dwarf, blue- 
flowered plant, the leaves resembling those of a Gloxinia but smaller. 
With little trouble it may be had in bloom at almost any season. 

Culture. The plants may be flowered all the year round, or 
given a period of rest by partly withholding water. Their culture 
is similar to that of Gloxinia. 

Propagation. The end of March is a good time to propagate. 
Cut off the ripened leaves with about an inch of stalk attached and 
insert in the sand bed, covering only a small part of the leaf blade. 
The sand should not be kept too wet. 

SANSEVIERIA (Bowstring Hemp). These plants are grown 
mostly for their stiff, erect leaves, but their flowers are beautiful. 
S. zeylanica is one of the few species grown, its variety, Laurenti, 
has leaves with white margins. 

Culture. They like a cool house, and can be used in house 
decorations since they do not require much sunlight. They thrive 
best in a heavy soil. 

Propagation. They may be increased by division or leaf cut- 
tings about 3 inches long. S. z. Laurenti does not propagate its 
variegation by leaf cuttings. 

SARRACENIA (Pitcher Plant). Natives of the Eastern 
States. There are seven species and a large number of hybrids; 
much prized in Europe owing to their curiously-shaped, and in 
some cases highly-colored leaves. 6". Driimmondii, a native of 
Florida, is the finest of all the kinds, none of the hybrids approach- 
ing it in the gorgeous markings of the foliage. 

Culture. Sarracenias are best grown in a cool, sunny house. 
The potting material should be the same as recommended for 
Nepenthes. (See page 137.) 

Propagation. Sow seeds in chopped sphagnum moss. 

SKIMMIA. S. japonica and S. Fortunei are handsome plants 
when in fruit. We import them from Japan, but they are usually 
unsatisfactory when they arrive in America, owing to many of the 
berries having dropped. It should be an easy matter to have this 
plant grown in some of the Southern States as there is nothing partic- 
ularly difficult in its propagation and cultivation. It is one of our 
prettiest berried plants. Those grown in the northern part of Japan 
are the hardiest. They sometimes survive the Winters at Wash- 
ington, D. C. The sexes are on separate plants, therefore both sexes 
should be grown together to produce fruit. Without the bright 
colored fruit they are not very ornamental. 



154 



PLANT CULTURE 




Sarracenia. Small Picture on Left Shows Germination 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 155 

Culture. They are of rather slow growth and a sandy, loamy 
soil suits them best. A partly shaded position is preferable. 

Propagation. By seeds sown in Fall and stratified and by 
cuttings. 

SMILAX. (See Asparagus, page 63.) 

SOLANUM. The Jerusalem Cherry or Solanum capsicastrum 
and the ornamental Peppers {S. pseudo-capsicum) are worth while 
Christmas plants, especially admired because of their dwarf habit 
and abundance of bright scarlet fruits. The variety Cleveland is 
most grown at present as it has larger and more fruit than the type. 

Culture. Many growers set them in the field during the Sum- 
mer, but they are severely checked by taking them up and crowding 
into a practical sized pot. It seems best, therefore, to Summer them 
in frames. Wet conditions cause the foliage to become yellow and 
drop. 

Propagation. Seed is sown from January to March in flats. 
It germinates readily. The seedlings are potted in small pots and 
shifted gradually so that by June they are in 5-inch pots. 

STEPHANOPHYSUM (Ruellia). For conservatory decora- 
tion S. longiflorum is a most useful plant during the dull months, 
small-sized subjects being covered with bright red flowers. It is 
not only useful as a Winter-blooming plant but it comes in well for 
planting out in Spring, blooming satisfactorily during the Summer. 

Culture. They are of easy culture. 

Propagation. The ease with which flowering plants may be 
had by the end of the year is remarkable. Cuttings are put in the 
usual time that soft-wooded bedding plants are propagated; they 
root in a few days, after which they are put in 3-inch pots. Three 
of the plants may then be put in a 6-inch pot, and by keeping them 
in a growing temperature they may be had in full flower two months 
after the cuttings are taken. 

STEVIA. A fine white, fragrant flower, widely cultivated, useful 
for combining in bouquets, is Piqueria trinervia, called by florists 
Slevia serrata. To prevent the plants getting wiry constant pinching 
should be resorted to. Pot-grown plants are preferable to field- 
grown subjects for late flowering, as the plants in pots can be stored 
in a place from which the frost is just kept out, so as to fill space 
vacated by Chrysanthemums. Field grown plants may get their 
last pinching during September, and in the benches should be planted 
quite close together. 



156 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. Cuttings are struck in late Spring. Put in 
23^-inch pots; from these they are shifted into 4-inch pots. At the 
beginning of August they are transferred to 6-inch pots. 

STRELITZL\ (Bird of Paradise Flower). Grown for its 
Banana-hke foHage and the very odd, showy flowers. S. Regincs 
is the commonest species; the flowers are orange and purple. 

Culture. It prefers considerable sunlight, a copious supply of 
water and a strong soil. A temperature of 50 degrees at night is 
ample. 

Propagation. It may be propagated from seed which are 
produced b)^ hand pollination. The usual method, however, is by 
suckers and division. 

STREPTOCARPUS (Cape Primrose). These plants have 
now attained such a high degree of perfection that they should be 
included in every general collection of grecnhoues decorative plants. 
They are better window flowering plants than is generally supposed, 
not requiring a very high temperature at any time. There are a 
number of good species of this genus. 

Culture. They prefer an open sunny place in an intermediate 
temperature. 

Propagation. Seed, to produce flowering plants in the Fall 
should be sown during March. As the seed is very smaH, extra care 
should be taken in the sowing and subsequent treatment until the 
plants are large enough. In connection with the germination there 
is a peculiarity not noticeable in other plants. Two tiny seed leaves 
are produced shortly after sowing the seed, and after a while one 
of these seed leaves dies, the other continuing to elongate. In some 
of the species, notably one named S. Wendlandii, this seed leaf, 
which at first is about the size of a pin head, expands till it gets 
about 18 inches long and a foot broad. 

STREPTOSOLEN (Browallia). S. Jamesom is a useful plant 
with orange flowers for late Winter flowering. It is naturally a 
low-growing, softwooded evergreen shrub, with a rather straggling 
appearance. When grown as a standard it is an extremely orna- 
mental subject. 

Culture. In Summer the plants may be plunged in a bed of 
ashes and frequently fed with liquid manure. They need full 
sun. 

Propagation. When standards are desired, take strong shoots 
for cuttings, and grow to single stems, removing the side shoots 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 157 

and stopping the main shoot when the desired height has been 
attained. 

STROBILANTHES. S. anisophyllus and 5'. isophyllus are very- 
neat and useful Winter blooming plants for the warm greenhouse. 
Flowers are light purple. 

Culture. They require a high temperature, an abundance of 
mositure and much syringing. 

Propagation. Cuttings should be taken in early Spring. 
Plant out for the Summer, lifting and potting end of Septem- 
ber. 

SWAINSONA. Not only is this plant useful for Winter bloom- 
ing, but early struck cuttings grown in well-drained soil will flower 
well in Summer and the flowers are always useful for the florist for 
use in designs. Old cut back plants which have flowered during the 
previous Winter will also supply an abundance of bloom when 
planted out. 

Propagation. Cuttings root readily. 

SWEET PEAS. There are numerous methods of growing this 
popular flower for Winter and Spring bloom; perhaps the greatest 
success is secured in ground beds. The preparation of the soil is the 
all-important item. The plant is a gross feeder, and, necessarily, the 
soil must be rich and deep. Soil troubles are responsible for most of 
the failures to grow first-class flowers. Three parts good loam and 
one part well-decayed cow manure with a Httle lime to a depth of 
15 inches has proved the best medium for good growth and pro- 
duction. It is always advisable to be certain of having a little soil 
from clover or other legume pastures incorporated with the soil 
in the beds. 

Sweet Peas may be grown nicely following a crop of Tomatoes. 
There are various methods used in raising the young plants. The 
seed is sometimes sown in pots and transferred to the beds. The best 
plan naturally is the one which occasions least disturbance to the 
roots. Troubles commonly arise because of unfavorable house con- 
ditions, such as high, moist temperatures, inducing weak growth. 
It should be borne in mind that the Sweet Pea is not a greenhouse 
flower; it thrives best in the open in cool climates. In Washington 
they are past their best by the month of May. In Maine they are 
in good condition for at least three months later. In Montreal and 
in Scotland they last till the end of Summer. During warm, sunny 
weather an abundance of ventilation must be given; a warm and 
humid condition should be avoided at all times. The Sweet Pea is 



158 



PLANT CULTURE 




Sweet Peas 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 159 

gradually filling more greenhouse space year by year and its cultiva- 
tion is by no means difficult if a few don'ts are kept in mind. 

The demand for Sweet Peas is greatest in the Winter months; 
therefore, the house chosen for the purpose should be so constructed 
as to catch the maximum amount of sunshine. It is not possible for 
every establishment to have a house with a long span to the south 
on the side of a hill; a structure of this character is peculiarly well 
fitted for the best development of this plant, but satisfactory flowers 
can be produced in other less favored structures. In the formation 
of the beds perhaps the best method is to have them raised above the 
alleys to a height of 8 or 10 inches. The beds may be from 4 to 6 
feet wide, running east and west, and the rows arranged crosswise 
in the beds. This plan gives the best opportunity for the sun to 
play on every part of the plant for a portion of the day. Water 
should be applied between the rows partly to encourage the roots 
to grow in a horizontal direction. When gathering the flowers, 
boards should be used on which to stand, thus preventing puddling 
of the soil. The most suitable varieties must be left to the judg- 
ment of the grower. The period between sowing the seed and the 
flowering stage is from two and one-half to three months. In sowing 
the seed rapid germination is secured by placing the seed in water 
until it begins to swell; sow in drills and cover with sand. Four to 6 
inches apart is a safe distance. The tall varieties should be sown 
at the north side of the house, the dwarfer varieties toward the south. 
In no case should the rows be less than 4 feet apart. A sharp lookout 
should be maintained to prevent red spider from gaining a foothold. 
The Sweet Pea is prone to the attacks of this pest, especially when 
high temperatures are maintained and the soil becomes dry. Syring- 
ing during the early part of the day when the soil is on the dry 
side is the only safe remedy when this pest has secured a standing. 
Green fly is kept in check by fumigating. Supports for the vines 
must be provided before the plants have got beyond the seedling 
stage. The flowers should be cut as soon as they are in a marketable 
stage and the seed pods removed as soon as they appear. (For out- 
door culture, see page 238.) 

TETRANEMA. T. mexicanum is the only species cultivated 
and is commonly known as the Mexican Foxglove. It is not very 
often that we see such beautiful plants running wild all over the out- 
of-the-way places in greenhouses as we do in this species. It pro- 
duces seeds in abundance, and it can be grown on the north side of 
a building in Summer until frost. It is much used with other things 
in hanging baskets and in window boxes. 



i6o PLANT CULTURE 

Culture. A warm house suits it best, but it may be used as a 
window plant. With proper care it may be made to flower most 
of the year. 

Propagation. By seeds. 

TINNEA. T. cBthiopica is a shrubby greenhouse plant some- 
times called the Tree Violet, owing to its flowers having the same 
fragrance as the Violet. 

Culture. It is adapted to the warm house. 

Propagation. It is propagated from good-sized cuttings of 
the dormant wood. 

TOCOCA (Sphaerogyne). T. plalyphylla bears the distinction 
of being one of the finest foliage plants in cultivation. Together with 
Cyanophyllum magnificum, another noble-leaved plant, it belongs to 
the same order as our common Meadow Beauty (Rhexia). 

Culture. They require a shady and fairly moist place in a warm 
house. In potting, use leafmold and fibrous loam, and give good 
drainage. 

Propagation. Both of these plants look as if they would be 
very diflicult to propagate, but, on the contrary, they are exceed- 
ingly easy subjects, so easy that if the conditions are all right, there 
is no excuse for losing a cutting. Mossing the tops is a rather slow 
and unsatisfactory method, and, I think, single-eye cuttings can be 
just as rapidly grown into specimens as successfully rooted tops. 
During January the plants are in less active growth than at any 
other period, consequently this is the best season for putting in the 
cuttings. SpHt the stems, making single-eye cuttings; shorten back 
the leaves to within about 2 inches of the leafs talk, leave about 23^ 
inches of stem (less than this will root poorly) ; put firmly in sand of 
warm propagating bed, taking care that the under part of the piece 
of leaf lies flat on the sand; cover with glass. Rooting will be in- 
dicated by the buds elongating. Pot in thumb pots and keep close 
for a time. 

TRICHOSPORUM (^schynanthus). Along with a dozen 
other beautiful species, T. grandifloriim can be grown successfully 
with the warm-house Orchids. All the species are worth growing 
and as they flower much more freely than the Orchids, they help 
to brighten up the sometimes flowerless plants with which they 
associate. 

Culture. They should not be allowed to flower the first year, 
thereby increasing the future flowering ability of the plant. Pinch 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS i6i 

the shoots three or four times during the season. The plants should 
be hung from the roof of the house near the glass. 

Propagation. Young plants are easily raised from cuttings 
of ripened shoots; they are also propagated by division. They de- 
light in the same rooting medium as the Orchids. They can even 
be tied to pieces of wood with the roots covered with moss. 

VANDA. The commonest species cultivated is F. ccertilea. The 
Vandas make their growth along one central axis, the growth is 
described as monopodial and differing from many other genera of 
Orchids in which the new growth takes place from the base of the 
shoots. They like plenty of light and require no shade from No- 
vember to the latter part of February. The day Winter temperature 
should be about 70 degrees; when the temperature gets much 
higher ventilation should be afforded. The Vandas prefer a humid 
atmosphere. 

VIOLA (Violet). F. odorata is the parent of the numerous 
single and double forms which are grown for their flowers in Winter 
and Spring. 

Culture. In this section the plants are given their Winter 
quarters in June. They are largely grown in frames from which 
frost is excluded by banking the outside with stable litter level with 
the sash, and running at least one i3/2-iiich heating pipe in the front 
or back part of the frame. But even under those conditions the 
flower crop is not continuous during very severe weather. In plant- 
ing in benches or beds, the operation is usually completed by 
June 15. Benches are used with about 5 inches of soil. Narrow 
and low-roofed, equal-span houses, running east and west, with 
the benches as near the glass as possible, produce satisfactory re- 
sults. Houses of the same order running north and south do not 
produce as many nor as good blooms during mid-Winter. The tem- 
perature is safe for the plants as long as frost is excluded, but 10 
degrees above the freezing point should be the minimum for con- 
tinuous flowering. In Winter the temperature may rise to from 
55 to 60 degrees. Many growers advise much lower temperature. 
Airing must be carefully attended to so as to maintain a cool, dry 
atmosphere. A hot, moist, stagnant atmosphere supplies perfect 
conditions for weak, sickly growth, and is certain to encourage the 
development of fungoid diseases. The soil should be loamy, mixed 
with at least a sixth of rotted cow manure and a very small quantity 
of pure bonemeal. After planting the glass is shaded with turpen- 
tine or naphtha and white lead, allowing full ventilation. Water 



i62 PLANT CULTURE 

only when moderately dry. In August, or beginning of September, 
the plants should get a shallow mulch of leaf soil mixed with dried 
horse manure. All leaves which show the least signs of decay 
should be removed and burned. 

During Summer, syringing should be attended to frequently, for 
the purpose of ridding the plants of red spider, their greatest enemy. 
For this purpose the water must be applied with considerable force 
to the lower surfaces of the leaves. The plants can, however, be 
kept tolerably free of this pest if proper growing conditions are sup- 
plied, as red spider is only found on plants which are enfeebled 
through some cause. When syringing is to be done it should be at- 
tended to in the early part of the day, and in bright weather, so 
that ventilation may be relied upon to dry the foHage before night — 
a most essential item. For ridding the plants of aphides, the use of 
hydrocyanic acid gas is much preferable to tobacco in any of its 
forms, as it leaves no objectionable odor. 

When leaf spot, the most dreaded of the fungoid diseases, ap- 
pears, the leaves should immediately be picked off and burned, for 
by being allowed to continue on the plant the fungus will ripen its 
spores and spread to other leaves. It is present more or less in all 
houses, and is only kept under control by supplying favorable con- 
ditions for the growth of the plants. When grown outdoors or in 
frames without protection the leaves are apt to suffer from too 
much moisture in the shape of dew. This condition is very favorable 
for the increase of spot. 

There are several other more or less hurtful fungoid diseases 
which can only be guarded against by giving the plants proper 
treatment, and their ravages curtailed by picking off and burning 
the infected parts. Very weak liquid cow manure may be given 
occasionally if the plants are in need of a stimulant. 

Propagation. The stock is increased by cuttings and division of 
the old plants. From the nature of the species the method of build- 
ing up a plant from the cutting, or runner, is the surest way of ob- 
taining free-growing, healthy specimens. The plants send out 
runners, and those intended for propagation should be allowed to 
develop to a certain extent. In the latter half of February, and during 
March, they are taken off and either inserted in the sand bed of a 
cool house or dibbled in boxes of sand and kept under conditions 
favorable to rooting. Cool conditions are more essential for Violets 
than for most other plants. When rooted they are put in 2-inch 
pots. After the roots show on the outside of the ball they are given 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY PLANTS 163 

a shift into 3-inch pots and placed in coldframes, giving abundant 
ventilation and shaded either with naphtha and white lead, or with 
lath slats. 

XANTHOSOMA (Phyllotaenium). This plant, which be- 
longs to the Caladium family, should be employed for decorative 
purposes more than is the case at present; not only because the 
foliage differs from the small number of kinds of plants used for 
decorative work, but mainly for the reason that it will stand the 
rough treatment given to those plants more so than one would ex- 
pect. It is a stove plant and one of the most ornamental. After a 
goodly number of leaves have been developed in a warm, moist at- 
mosphere the plants will continue to keep up a presentable appear- 
ance with ordinary greenhouse temperature, and they may even be 
used as house plants. The leaves are shaped somewhat like those 
of the fancy-leaved Caladiums; the texture is much firmer, the 
color is green with white markings along the principal veins. Two 
of the species most commonly grown are X. sagittifolium and X. 
Lindenii. 

Propagation, By division. Before repotting put the pieces 
in a warm sand bed to encourage fresh roots. 




i64 



PLANT CULTURE 




Achillea ptarmica var. flore plento 



CHAPTER VII 

Hardy Perennial Plants 

ABRONIA. A. umhellata is a plant very common by the sea- 
shore in Southern CaHfornia, where it is known as the Beach Helio- 
trope. It is also called the Sand Verbena. If it were to be planted 
near to the seashore in the East it might be a welcome addition to 
the list of flowering plants and would, no doubt, grow nicely from 
Atlantic City south along the seashore. 

Propagation, It is increased by cuttings and from seeds. 

AC^NA (New Zealand Bur). A native of New Zealand. 
In localities where this plant will thrive, it will be found one of the 
best trailing dwarf sub-shrubs. The flowers are inconspicuous, but 
the flower heads, on maturing, are covered with long, crimson 
spines, which give the plant a very ornamental appearance. For a 
rockery few plants surpass the A. microphylla in forming neat, com- 
pact masses. None of the other species are so attractive as this in 
the flowering stage. It is not particular as to soil. In this locality 
young plants are best put out in their permanent positions early in 
the Fall, as when put out in Spring they do not make sufificient 
growth to insure a healthy, vigorous condition during the hot 
months. 

Propagation. By division and from seeds. 

ACANTHUS (Bear's Breech). In warm spots, at least two of 
the species are hardy with us, but they bloom only sparingly. In 
one or two of the species, but notably in A. spinosus, the flower 
stalks have a handsome appearance for quite a while after the 
flowers are dead. A . mollis and A . m. latif alius were used for bed- 
ding. They are deep-rooting plants. In the colder parts of the 
country all of the species should have the crowns protected in 
Winter. Excessive moisture is fatal. 

Propagation. These kinds are easily increased by division of 
the roots. Seeds are readily obtained. The seedlings may be 
planted out in places where they are to remain a few weeks after 
germinating. 

165 



i66 PLANT CULTURE 

ACHILLEA. A hardy composite, with large, flat corymbs of 
white, yellow, red or purple flowers. The leaves are often much 
divided. They usually grow from i to 2 feet high. A. ptarmica flore 
pleno, the variety known as The Pearl, is one of the most desirable 
of hardy herbaceous plants, because of the flowers, which are double 
and white. They are produced in great profusion if the plants get 
fair treatment. This Achillea should not be divided in Spring, for 
unless favorable weather conditions follow the operation the plants 
will receive a check from which they do not thoroughly recover the 
same season. If taken up and divided during the first half of Oc- 
tober, replanted and watered if necessary, they will develop working 
roots before freezing weather, and send up flowers the following 
season as if nothing had happened. Do not divide the plants too 
closely, and if the ground in which they are growing is dry, water 
well before the operation and give another watering when the pieces 
are replanted. Other varieties of yl. p. flore pleno are known as 
Snowball and Elegans; all of them are white flowered. A. tomentosa 
is a dwarf, woolly-leaved evergreen, with yellow flowers. Increased 
by division. A. mongolica grows about 18 inches high, bears single 
white flowers. Comes into bloom early, and is used for cutting. 
All of the kinds need full sunshine. 

Culture. It is one of the easiest plants to cultivate in the open 
border, spreading very rapidly and flowering profusely. 

Propagation. Large clumps may be divided with a spade at 
any time during Spring or Autumn and replanted. 

ACIPHYLLA. New Zealand umbelliferous plants, with dense 
rosettes of sharp-pointed leaves. In a young and flowerless stage 
they are attractive, and may be used in Summer for rockwork. 
.1. squarrosa, sometimes called the Bayonet Plant, is very ornamen- 
tal. A . Colensoi forms a circular bush 5 or 6 feet in diameter, having 
flowering stems 6 to 9 feet high. In the colder parts the plants 
should either be lifted and stored in a frame, or protected by a 
covering of some kind. 

Propagation. Both are raised from seeds sown during the lat- 
ter part of February. 

ACONITUM (Monkshood). The species are very numerous 
and have a wide geographical range. A . Napellus is the best known ; 
unfortunately, it is one of the most poisonous of cultivated plants, 
but hurtful only when taken internally. Some of its varieties are 
A.N. album, flowers white; A.N. longihracteatum, rich blue; A. N. 
bicoloTy white and lilac; A.N. Brauniiy deep purple. A. ochroleucum 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



167 




ACONITUM 



i68 PLANT CULTURE 

and A. pyrenaicum have pale yellow flowers. A. Napellus and its 
forms flower about mid-Summer. A . Fischeri, a pale blue flowered 
native species, blooms late in Summer. In the warmer parts of the 
country, where the Delphiniums will not thrive, some of the Aconi- 
tums will be found to be pretty fair substitutes, as they thrive 
moderately well where the sun is only allowed to strike them 
through a leafy shade. If the soil around them is given a mulch 
2 or 3 inches deep, to preserve moisture, they will flower all the bet- 
ter for it. 

Propagation. By division in Fall or Spring. 

ADONIS. The annual species, of which there are two, A, 
astivalis and A. autumnalis, are more commonly grown than the 
perennials, of which there are five. A. vernalis, A. pyrenaica and 
A. amurensis are very elegant species for borders or rockwork. 
The last named species is one of the earhest plants to bloom out of 
doors* very heavy frosts do not seem to hurt the growth above 
ground in January and February. The flowers are large, yellow; 
the foliage much divided. It is very much used with Snowdrops 
in public parks. 

Propagation. By seed is a rather slow method. Large plants 
will best stand division in early Autumn 

yETHIONEMA. M. coridifoliuni is a slender, evergreen shrub, 
growing about 6 inches, suitable for edgings of borders or for rock- 
work. Other good species are ^F.. grandiflorum and .£. pulchellum. 
When in rockwork pockets give a mulching of leaf soil or moss to 
prevent baking of the earth and to keep the roots cool. 

Propagation. Very readily raised from seeds which should be 
sown in Autumn and the seedHngs put out early in Spring. 

AGROSTEMMA (Lychnis). The species A. coronaria and 
its varieties are always satisfactory in the herbaceous border. The 
foliage is silvery throughout, the flowers are rose colored; ^4. c. atro- 
sanguinea, crimson; A. c. alba, white; A. c. hybrida, rosy crimson. 
They grow from i to 2 feet high. A. flos-Jovis differs from A. 
coronaria, in having umbellate heads of bloom, with the foliage 
narrower. The flowers are purple or scarlet. Almost any kind of 
soil will suit them, but they must have full sunshine. All of the 
above are useful plants for florists to handle. 

Propagation. Sow the seed in the Fall; keep in a cool house. 
As soon as the seedlings are large enough prick off into boxes. 
They may be put out in a coldframe very early in the season. Or by 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 169 

sowing early in September the seedlings can be wintered in frames. 
They are also increased by cuttings and by division of the old 
plants. 

AJUGA (Bugle Weed), The creeping or stoloniferous species 
are much used as dwarf plants for forming dense carpets, either on 
rockwork or in the open border. As they grow in dense masses they 
usually are self-supporting during the hot months. A . reptans var. 
rubra has dark purple foliage and is excellent for covering shady 
places. A. r. variegata is beautifully mottled with yellow. A. 
genevensis is a variable species with dull red, white or blue flowers; 
does well in shady places. They are especially suited for cemetery 
work. 

Propagation. All of the above are readily increased by divi- 
sion either in Fall or Spring, or by seeds. 

ALTHi^A (Hollyhock). One of the tallest growing herba- 
ceous plants, also one of the showiest, the Hollyhock, Althcsa rosea, 
may be called an old-fashioned flower, and it is doubtful if there has 
been any improvement in the size and shape of the bloom for a 
goodly number of years. A host of varieties used to be kept true to 
name years ago; these were perpetuated by cuttings, divisions and 
grafting on roots; but now the best sorts come tolerably true from 
seeds. The principal colors are white, yellow, pink, red and purple. 
Seeds to produce flowering plants within a year should be sown as 
soon as ripe — usually in August. Sow in a box of rather light soil 
and cover very lightly with screened moss. The seedlings being 
large from the start should be put singly in small pots, and as they 
get too large for that size, shift into two or three sizes larger. Keep 
them in a coldframe; give an abundance of ventilation in favorable 
weather so that they may become stocky and robust. The ground 
should be well prepared for their reception, otherwise they will not 
attain full size — 6 to 8 feet tall — and only remain in bloom two or 
three weeks. The plants should be put out as early as the ground 
can be worked. Good kinds should be marked for seed as they 
bloom. 

Propagation. By sowing seeds in August as they ripen, and 
following directions given above. 

ALYSSUM (Madwort). In this genus there are several rock- 
work or border plants, which, in their seasons, make a good show 
while in bloom. A. saxatile and A. s. compactum are Spring bloom- 
ers. The plants are of a dwarf, shrubby nature with grayish-green 
leaves and dense heads of deep yellow flowers. A . s. variegatum has 



I70 PLANT CULTURE 

the foliage marked with yellow blotches, which, when the plant is 
out of bloom, renders it more valuable than the type as an ornamen- 
tal plant during the Summer. A. gemonense is nearly allied to A. 
saxatiky but is less hardy, and continues longer in bloom. A. ros- 
tratum grows about i3^ feet high and blooms later than any of the 
above named. The species and forms are not particular as to soil, 
usually growing very freely wherever planted. 

Propagation. They are easily raised from seed, which should 
be sown in August and the seedlings kept in a light, airy position 
until large enough to be planted out. They are increased also by 
cuttings and by dividing the roots. 

ANEMONE. The s^G.ciQS A. jap onica and its varieties are late 
flowering herbaceous plants, growing from i to 2 feet high, with 
large white or pale rose-colored flowers, useful for cutting. The 
varieties are A. j. alba, A. j. rosea, A. j. Whirlwind and Queen 
Charlotte. A. alpina, a European species, grows about 18 inches 
high, forming large clumps. The flowers are usually solitary, from 
2 to 3 inches in diameter, white inside, purplish outside. There is a 
very fine yellow flowered variety of this named A. a. sulphurea. 
Both kinds are slow in making flowering plants from seeds. Among 
the slender, tuberous-rooted section, A. apennina and A. nemorosa 
are early flowering dwarf species well suited for naturalizing among 
deciduous, low-growing trees and shrubs, as they make most of their 
growth before the shrubs and trees are in leaf. During Summer, 
both young and old plants should be heavily mulched if the maxi- 
mum number of flowers are expected from them. During dry 
weather the plants, if neglected, are apt to stand still and throw up 
only a few feeble looking flowers, so it is important that they be 
kept moderately moist by mulching. Short grass, leaves, or half- 
rotted stable bedding will answer. In this genus there are about 
85 species, several of which have numerous varieties. Most of them 
are desirable plants, but some are weedy, and increase too rapidly 
in gardens. 

Propagation. Root propagation is the method employed, and 
it may be done at almost any season, but preferably in early Spring. 
Dig up some of the oldest plants, saving even the small roots. Cut 
both large and small into pieces about 2 inches in length and put in 
boxes of sandy soil, covering the pieces with an inch of the same 
material. Keep fairly moist and in a cool frame. When the roots 
have developed growths from 2 to 3 inches high put in 3-inch pots, 
plunging these in ashes and keeping them covered for a few days. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



Anemone japonica 



171 



172 PLANT CULTURE 

After the plants make a sufficient quantity of roots they should be 
put out in their permanent quarters, where preparation should be 
made for them in advance by having the ground deeply worked and 
well manured. 

ANTIRRHINUM (Snapdragon). The varieties of A. majus 
have long been grown as hardy perennials in Europe. In the 
northern and middle parts the climatic conditions are more favor- 
able for their growth in the late Summer and Autumn months, as 
they flourish best in a moist, cold atmosphere. In America, espe- 
cially in the Middle and South Atlantic States, they are best treated 
as annuals, as the plants which survive the Winter are usually 
not in as vigorous a condition as could be wished. The principal 
colors are white, red, purple and yellow, several kinds having com- 
binations of two or more of these colors. A. Asarina, from the south 
of France, has a trailing habit; the leaves are grayish green and of a 
clammy nature; flowers yellowish white. It thrives best in posi- 
tions partly shaded from the sun. It reproduces itself freely from 
seeds which ripen in abundance and may frequently be seen growing 
in the chinks of shady walls. 

Propagation. Cuttings may be put in during October and 
given the protection of a frame during the cold months. Or seeds 
should be sown late in September to have good-sized plants by the 
following Spring. The tops of the seedlings may be rooted quickly 
in the propagating bed of a cool house; or they may be grown from 
the start with a view of flowering them in pots, for which purpose 
they are entirely satisfactory. 

AQUILEGIA (Columbine). Hardy perennial plants with 
very showy flowers. The colors include red, white, blue and yellow; 
often there are two or more of these colors in the same flower. 
About 30 species are in cultivation. There are numerous varieties, 
the results of hybridization, most of which surpass the 
species in attractiveness as border plants. The Aquilegia is so 
easily hybridized that it is almost impossible to obtain plants from 
seeds true to name when two or more species are grown near each 
other; even with two species apparently very distinct, such as A. 
chrysantha and A. flahellata, they readily mix, but the progeny has 
a very undesirable combination of colors in the flowers. It is al- 
ways advisable to protect a few flowers of the desirable species 
from the visitations of insects, so as to make certain of having the 
seedlings true. I have found the best way to do this is to flower a 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 173 

few plants in pots and keep the blossoms covered with fine cloth 
while fertilization is in progress. 

Among the red flowering kinds we have A.formosa, A . calif or nica, 
A. truncata and A. canadensis; in white there are several, among 
the best being A. calif ornica alba, A. flabellata, a dwarf -growing 
species with very ornamental foliage; A . ccsrulea alba, and A . vulgaris 
alba. The best of the yellows are A. chrysantha and A. c.flavescens. 
In the blue-flowered forms there is a large number to choose from: 
A. ccBrulea is a very satisfactory species; A. vulgaris cc^rulea, A. 
olympica are both good. In A. glandulosa the sepals are blue and 
the petals white. Several of the species and varieties are very 
easily forced into bloom, among them A. flabellata. It is a trifle 
later in coming into flower than A. canadensis, which usually is in 
full flower in this latitude by April 10. A. chrysantha is later in 
flowering. The Aquilegias have a habit of dying out after the 
second and third year. 

Propagation. The seeds germinate irregularly when they 
remain long out of the soil, but when sown as soon as gathered they 
vegetate very freely, even in mid-Summer. Spring sowing is un- 
satisfactory, because the seedlings do not make desirable growth, 
during hot weather, and often more than a year elapses before any 
flowers are produced. Sow in moderately light soil, and cover 
lightly with screened moss; keep in an airy, cool house. When the 
seedlings are large enough they may be pricked off into boxes, or 
round the edges of small pots of soil. Put them out in a frame 
when they are large enough to stand sunshine. If planted outside, 
where they are to flower, by the end of September they will make 
fairly strong crowns before cool weather sets in, and in the following 
Spring will bloom strong and vigorous. Any species which it is 
desired to increase in the absence of seeds should be lifted, divided 
and replanted early in the Fall, so that the pieces may have a chance 
to become established before Winter. 

ARABIS (Rock Cress). Many of the species of Rock Cress 
are of no horticultural value and are seldom seen outside of botanical 
collections. Three of them, however, are among the most desirable 
of Spring flowering plants, and may be found in nearly every garden 
of any size. They are A. albida, A. lucida and A. alpina. A. albida 
is the best known; it forms a dense carpet, the stems being long and 
wiry, with dense rosettes of leaves at the ends. The flowers, which 
are pure white, are borne in great profusion, almost hiding the 
foliage. A. alpina is not such a free grower, but is equally suitable 



174 



PLANT CULTURE 




HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 175 

for rockwork, especially the variegated form. A. lucida is dwarfer 
than the other two; this has also a variegated form which should 
not be allowed to flower 

Propagation. The variegated varieties should be propagated 
by division, or by cuttings put in early in the season. The green- 
leaved kinds are best raised from seeds, treated in the same manner 
as recommended for Aubrietia. 

ARGEMONE (Devil's Fig). Most of the species grown in 
gardens are of annual duration. They will germinate outdoors late 
in Spring and develop very rapidly into flowering plants. A. 
grandiflora is a perennial with white flowers 3 to 5 inches in diameter, 
but not so free in blooming as the annual species. It must be given 
a position in full sunshine. A. mexicana, with its orange-colored 
flowers, called the Mexican Poppy, is also excellent. 

Propagation. Seedlings should be pricked off into small pots 
as soon as the seed leaves are developed, as the roots will not endure 
much disturbance. 

ARMERIA (Sea Pink). Of the Sea Pinks A. vulgaris is the 
best known. It grows in dense, low clumps, having narrow, grass- 
like leaves. The flowers are in close heads, on scapes only a few 
inches high. There are numerous forms of this species, with red, 
lilac, deep pink and white flowers. A. cephalotes has much larger 
leaves than the above, and the flowers, which are deep rose, or crim- 
son, are borne on very long scapes. A . platitaginea is intermediate 
in size between the two first-named species, having pink flowers. 

Propagation. The choicer varieties are best increased by divi- 
sion; the pieces should be potted in sandy soil in the beginning of 
October and kept in a close frame to encourage roots. All of the 
species are best raised from seed. Sow late in Autumn, in a cool 
house, prick off the seedlings and remove to a coldframe early to 
thoroughly harden ofif. In this section we put out plants of this 
class in the open ground as soon as it is in a workable condition, 
so that they may be well established before the hot weather arrives. 

ASCLEPIAS (Pleurisy Root). The A. tuherosa, also cafled 
Butterfly Weed, is one of our most showy flowered native her- 
baceous plants. It is deep rooting, and is frequently seen growing 
luxuriantly in dry fields in positions fully exposed to the sun, with 
the surrounding herbage almost withered. It is late in blooming 
and valuable on this account. These are very showy and worthy 
of more attention. When cultivated in gardens the blooming period 
is longer than is the case with wild plants. 



176 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. In removing plants from their native places 
they should be taken only after they have completed growth. As 
many of the roots as possible should be saved, as the species dishkes 
removal. Raising plants from seeds is the most certain method of 
propagation. As they grow but slowly in the seedHng stage, sow only 
a few seeds in a pot of rather firm soil, and allow the young plants 
to remain in these pots for at least a year before planting out. 

ASPERULA (Sweet Woodruff). The species A. odorata is a 
slender growing plant of the Bedstraw family (Rubiaceae), with pure 
white flowers in May. It will succeed in clumps if given a partially 
shaded situation, but it blooms only for a short season, and the 
foliage is not very attractive. It is sometimes grown in a quite 
satisfactory way in company with other plants, such as Vinca 
herbacea, V. minor, and even with varieties of the English Ivy 
when used for covering ground among shrubs and under trees. The 
flowers of the Woodruff appearing among the foliage of these plants 
makes an exceedingly pretty picture. The leaves, when dried, have 
a very agreeable aromatic odor. 

Propagation. It is propagated by division and from seeds 
and increases rapidly. 

ASTER (Michaelmas Daisy, not China Aster). Nearly a hun- 
dred species and varieties of these popular border plants are offered 
by some of the European nurserymen. Many of the plants are indis- 
pensable for the ornamentation of the herbaceous border in late 
Summer and Autumn. They are all of free growth and will thrive 
in ordinary garden soil without much attention; but if the soil be 
worked deep, and well manured before planting, the plants will 
show the results of it in the size and number of flowers. Of A. 
novi-helgii there are numerous forms, some of them only i8 inches 
high and from that ranging to a height of 6 feet. The flowers are 
lavender or violet blue, rose and white; A. novce-anglicB is one of the 
best-known species, tall growing, with purple flowers; its variety, 
A. n.-a. rubra, bearing rose-colored flowers, should always be in- 
cluded in collection. Other good forms of these IMichaelmas Daisies 
are catalogued by dealers. 

Propagation. These Asters are best increased by division be- 
fore starting into active growth. 

ASTILBE. The A. japonica is usually known in gardens as 
SpircBa japonica. The Spiraeas belong to the Rose family, while 
Astilbe japonica is classed with the Saxifragas, but A. Lemoinci is 
said to be a hybrid between A. japonica and a species of Aruncus, 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 177 

which is also a rosaceous genus. If this be the case then both plants 
must necessarily be closely related, and if not of the same genus 
then they are of the same family. There are several fine varieties. 

A. j. compacta has more compact panicles than the type. A j. 
grandiflora is larger; A. j. variegata hab a yellowish variegation;^. 
rivularis makes a splendid border plant in this section, growing to a 
height of 5 feet, and blooming late in the season. A. Thimhergii 
grows about 18 inches high, and is much used as a forcing plant. In 
the border it thrives best in heavy, retentive soil. Astilhe japonica 
is better known as a forcing plant than as a subject for the hardy 
border. It is best grown in partial shade, for when in sunny places, 
unless kept supplied with water during dry spells, the foliage is apt 
to suffer before the close of the Summer. 

Propagation. All of the species are propagated by division, 
in the early Fall. 

AUBRIETIA. The A. deltoidea is a low-growing, evergreen, 
Spring-flowering plant, forming dense cushions of growth and 
thickly studded with small, purple flowers early in the season. There 
are numerous forms; some of the best are A. d. Hendersofiii, more 
robust than the type, with deep, violet-blue flowers; A. d. Eyrei, a 
free-growing form, and A. d. grceca, a large light-purple flowered 
variety. Aubrietias are well adapted for rockwork culture, as they 
like well-drained situations and rather light, loamy soil. They will 
Stand full sunshine. 

Propagation. The readiest means of propagation is by seed 
which may be sown early enough to have the seedlings established 
before freezing weather; or, the old plants may be divided and potted 
in sandy soil, keeping them in a frame during Winter, and planting 
out as soon as the weather will permit. 

BAPTISIA (False Indigo). A native of the Southern States, 

B. perjoliata is but seldom seen in cultivation, but is hardy as far 
north as Washington. Owing to its beautifully arranged perfoliate 
leaves it forms a striking object in the herbaceous border. B. 
australis, probably the best, grows from 3 to 6 feet high; the flowers 
are blue. It seems to do best in deep, sandy soil. Raised from seed. 
B. alba and B. leucantha are white flowered species. 

Propagation. The seeds are sown soon as gathered; kept in a 
coldframe they germinate the following Spring. 

BEGONIA. The variety B. Evansiana, probably the hardiest 
of the Begonias, is also known as B. discolor and 5. grandis. It is a 
native of China, Japan and Java. Notwithstanding the many fine 



178 PLANT CULTURE 

varieties of Begonias for bedding, this is one of the best for borders 
which get the benefit of full light from the north. (For the tuberous 
sorts see p. 70.) 

Propagation. It is one of the species which form bulbels, or 
resting buds, in the axils of the leaves. These bulbels, when ripe, 
fall to the ground, and it is from them that the young plants grow 
late in the following Spring. They come safely through a tempera- 
ture of several degrees below zero. The plants thrive best in the 
shade of dwellings, or anywhere except under the shade of trees, 
and in positions where direct sunlight reaches them during the 
middle of the day. The bulbels pass the Winter successfully fully 
exposed on the surface of the soil, but precautions must be taken 
to provide against rapid thawing and freezing. When the bulbels 
are left to themselves they usually sprout too thickly together. 
The weaker plants should therefore be thinned out, to give those 
which are left full opportunity to develop, otherwise their period 
of blooming will be short. To have plants early in bloom the bulbels 
may be harvested shortly after the plants are done blooming, kept 
during the Winter in a bottle and sown in time to have the plants 
in 3-inch pots by the middle of ]\Iay. 

BOCCONIA (Plume Poppy). B. cordata is probably the 
most imposing in appearance of all hardy herbaceous plants, making 
growths of from 6 to 10 feet high. It is a native of China and 
Japan, and very hardy. The plant has a grayish green appearance. 
The leaves are large and much cut or lobed. The flowers, borne 
in large, terminal panicles, are not showy, but they harmonize 
with the foliage. The plant is well fitted for isolated positions 
on lawns, among shrubs, or for large herbaceous borders. While 
thriving best in deeply worked, fairly rich soil it will succeed in stiff 
and poor ground. 

Propagation. Seeds, of which a medium-sized plant will pro- 
duce large numbers, are best for propagating in large quantities. 
They should be germinated in April and the seedlings potted off 
when small. The plant is also increased from suckers, which are 
produced in abundance. 

CALLIRHOE. A genus belonging to the same family (Mal- 
vaceae) as the Abutilon, C. involucrata, the most useful species, has 
long, trailing stems, with fair-sized purplish red flowers in the axils 
of the leaves. It spreads very rapidly during the Summer months. 
A good subject for borders of moderate width. In C. i. lineariloha 
the leaves are smaller — a good form for the rockery. It thrives in 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



179 




BOCCONIA CORDATA 



i8o PLANT CULTURE 

very dry soils, the roots penetrating to a great depth. They are of 
easiest culture and deserve great popularity. Old plants need to be 
frequently renewed, as they seem to exhaust themselves, probably 
owing to their rampant growth. 

Propagation. They are chiefly propagated by seeds, but they 
may be also propagated by cuttings. 

CALLUNA (Heather). C. vulgaris is seemingly as much at 
home in a hothouse at Washington as in the highlands of Scotland. 
It might be planted more commonly in shrubberies and thus relieve 
the monotony of some borders, by helping to give them a little 
more variety. In making a place for this plant, take some broken 
bricks and a bushel of peat, mix together and plant the Heath in it. 
They do very well for naturalizing. Cut branches keep their life- 
like appearance for months. After flowering the plants should be 
cut down to keep them bushy at the base and well-shaped. They 
prefer a sunny location. 

Propagation. Cuttings are made from December to April, 
preferably from young plants, the tender shoots i inch in length 
being best. 

CAMPANULA (HarebelL Bellflower). There is an amazing 
wealth of material in this genus. There are species that grow only 
2 inches in height and others that are 3 feet tall. The biennials, C. 
Medium and C. Medium calycanthema, are the most commonly 
planted, the latter having the well-known cup-and-saucer arrange- 
ment. These and the C. persicifolia and its varieties, which are usu- 
ally treated as biennials, have their seeds sown in late Summer and 
are wintered in a frame. C. pyramidalis and C. persicifolia are used 
as florists' flowers, the latter being the more useful. Of the C. per- 
sicifolia the variety Moerheimei is the best white. Daisy Hill is also 
an excellent white of this species. C. p. alba grandiflora and C. p. 
alba coronata are good whites, the latter being of the cup-and-saucer 
type. C. p. alba flore plena, a double white, while it lasts, is one of 
the best Summer flowers. There are also single and double blue 
forms, all growing about 2Y2 feet high. Plants which remain in the 
ground over Winter will be benefited by a mulch of leaf soil and 
short manure around the crowns. Of C. Trachelium there are double 
blue and white forms; height 2^ feet. C. Van Houttei, a hybrid 
form with dark blue flowers, grows about 2 feet tall. C. grandis 
and C. g. alba are both good; height 3 feet. C pyramidalis is the 
tallest species; height 5 feet. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



i8r 



*• 



if^ 



1*4 






r## 



Campanula medium, Canterbury Bells 



i82 PLANT CULTURE 

Among the many dwarf trailers C. carpatica is probably the 
most popular. It throws up a great number of stems from a dense 
mound of compact growth. When in flower, it is the most attract- 
ive of hardy perennials. C. isophylla and C. i. alba, blue and white, 
are especially good for baskets or rockwork. Of C. carpatica there 
are several forms having blue, pale blue, lilac and white flowers. 
C. c. turbinata, a purplish blue, is dwarfer than the type, being es- 
pecially suited for borders or rockwork. The Harebell, or Bluebell 
of literature, is the C. rotundifolia. It is rather attractive. C. r. 
Hostii is an improvement, having larger flowers and a stouter 
stem. 

Propagation. Campanulas are raised from seed and by divi- 
sion or cuttings. Seeds should be started under glass. Cover very 
shallow and place in a light place at about 60 degrees temperature. 
Transplant seedlings in flats as soon as they can be handled. Harden 
young plants gradually and transfer to the open ground in May. 

CATANANCHE. A plant with grayish green, long, narrow 
leaves, and blue or blue and white flowers borne on long, slender 
stalks. The species C. ccerulea is of the easiest cultivation, and a 
desirable herbaceous plant, often used as Everlastings. 

Propagation. Sow seeds late in the Fall and keep indoors; 
they will germinate very early. Prick off into boxes and remove 
to a coldframe when large enough. 

CENTAUREA (Bachelor's Button). Of this genus C. cyanus 
is the Cornflower and C. moschata the Sweet Sultan. Both are an- 
nual in duration. Seeds will germinate in the open ground. C. 
americana is another good annual species which is sometimes grown 
for Summer cut flowers; the color is pale rose. C. babylonica is a 
good species to plant in the back part of an herbaceous border; the 
foliage is silvery white; flowers thistle-like, bright yellow. The plant 
reaches a height of from 6 to 1 2 feet. C. montana, the Mountain 
Bluet, is the perennial Cornflower, blooming during the greater part 
of Summer. There are forms with lilac, rose, red, white and sulphur 
colored flowers. 

Propagation. Increased by division during the latter part of 
March, also by seeds. 

CERASTIUM. C. Bieberstemii is a dwarf plant with a dense 
mass of growths; flowers pure white; in bloom during May. C. 
grandifiorum is a green-leaved species well adapted for growing in 
dense, carpet-like masses over rocks. The leaves are very woollv, 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 185 

giving the plant a whitish appearance all the year round. It stands 
our hot Summers better even than the well-known C. tomentosum 
(Snow-in-Summer). This is a species with smaller and lighter 
colored foliage. Both are used for edging in beds or borders. 

Propagation. The plants may be divided very early in the 
season with or without roots and replanted with long stems, deep 
in the soil, well firmed, and kept moist until they begin to grow, 

CHAMi^BATIA. C. foliolosa is one of the plants which grow 
luxuriantly in the Sierras. Myriads of fine plants can be seen from 
the railway train. It is possibly the most beautiful of all the sub- 
alpine plants in cultivation. The leaves are very much divided, a 
bright green and the flowers are white. If ripe seeds were available, 
the plants might be more commonly seen than they now are. 

Propagation. It is considered one of the choicest of the very 
dwarf shrubs in European gardens and tests the ability of the ex- 
pert propagator to increase it. It can only be handled successfully 
by notching the stems and allowing the cut surfaces to callus before 
putting in the cuttings, but the plants used to be so rare in Europe 
that the above method was seldom attempted. 

CHEIRANTHUS (Wallflower). The species C. Cheiri is a 
plant much grown in Europe, where the climate is very favorable 
to its perfect development. In the warmer parts of America its 
period of blooming is but a short one. In England it is a common 
plant on walls. The colors of the flowers are yellow, and reddish 
brown. Although a woody perennial, it should be renewed from 
seed, as the plants begin to fail after having bloomed one or two 
years. There are many fine double forms, some of which have 
varietal names. 

Propagation. The seeds are sown in April, and as soon as 
large enough the seedhngs are planted out where they are to flower 
the following Spring. Double flowering kinds can be raised from 
seed. 

CHELIDONIUM (Double Celandine). The C. majus flore 
pleno is a reliable plant for half-shaded positions in woods. The 
double form is smaller growing than the single-flowered plant. The 
foHage of both has a bright green appearance for the greater part 
of the Summer. It is especially at home among damp rocks, grow- 
ing in vegetable humus. 

Propagation. In favorable positions it will reproduce itself 
from seeds. 



i84 PLANT CULTURE 

CLEMATIS. During July and August one of the most useful 
plants for producing white flowers is the herbaceous Clematis, 
known as C recta. It grows from 2 to 3 feet high and if in deep, 
rich soil the quantity of flowers to a plant is very large. In C. 
her aclecB folia (tubulosa) and C Davidiana we have two blue-flowered 
species from China. The last named is fragrant. They are rehable 
plants for the herbaceous border, growing about 2 feet high. 

Propagation. They are all increased from seeds sown as soon 
as gathered; also from division of the crowns, and by cuttings taken 
from the plants before coming into flower. 

COREOPSIS. C lanceolata and C. /. grandiflora are yellow- 
flowered composites, much used for Summer cut flowers. C. verti- 
cillata is of little service for cutting, but owing to the finely divided 
foliage it is a desirable border plant. 

Propagation. Old plants may be divided, but they are best 
raised from seeds, and the young plants put out early where they 
are to bloom. 

DELPHINIUM (Larkspur). D. grandiflorum and D. formosum 
have numerous fine varieties, which are much grown for cut flowers. 
The D. grandiflorum, 2 to 3 feet high, is one of the most stately of 
the Delphiniums. Its striking foliage remains beautiful throughout 
the whole growing season. It can be massed in the hardy border 
as close as 2 feet, but produces a fine effect when 4 feet apart. On 
account of its height it is usually planted well back in the border. 
The D. formosum is the most permanent form for naturalizing, 
being the hardiest. The species are numerous and there are superb 
hybrids catalogued by dealers, most of them being choice border 
perennials requiring deep, rich soil. 

Propagation. They are propagated principally by cuttings 
of the young growths in early Spring, from seeds sown about the 
beginning of March, and by division of the roots when dormant in 
Autumn or late Winter. 

DIANTHUS (Carnation. Pink). There are nearly a hundred 
distinct species, many of which are in cultivation. Most of them are 
desirable as border or rockery plants. They usually make dense 
tufts of grassy-like growths. Nearly all have attractive flowers. 
D. barbatus is the Sweet William. Good strains are procured from 
seed. D. ccBsius (Cheddar Pink) stands our hot Summers well. A 
useful species for the rockery. D. plumarius (Common, Grass, or 
Garden Pink) is a universal favorite, being used as edging for beds. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 185 

There are double-flowered forms. D. chinensis, the Chinese Pink, 
is a biennial and should be treated as such, Autumn-raised plants 
flowering the best. There are many desirable varieties in this 
species. D. alphius is one of the choicest of Alpine and rockwork 
plants. D. glacialis is a pretty Alpine species difficult to estabUsh. 
D. deltoides (Maiden Pink) is one of the prettiest border Pinks, 
making neat mats of foliage, bearing profusely of the little bright 
red flowers. 

Dianthuses like a warm soil, and one that will not become too 
wet at any time, especially the perennial kind, as they are killed 
from too much ice around them. 

Propagation. All Dianthuses are readily propagated from 
seeds sown in rich soil. The double kinds are best propagated from 
cuttings alone to have them true. Another method is by layering, 
and with the garden Pinks or forms of D. plumarius, it is the easiest 
and surest. 

DICENTRA. D. spedahilis, Bleeding Heart, is one of the most 
beautiful herbaceous plants in cultivation, flowering usually in May, 
splendidly adapted for forcing. It is one of the first plants to push 
its growths above the soil. In some localities it is apt to suffer from 
late frosts. D. eximia is not so tall growing as the above-named; 
the leaves are more finely divided and the flowering period is much 
longer. 

Propagation. The time for propagating is just before the plant 
starts into growth. Division of the crowns is the most reliable 
method. Dig up the plants, saving every root; wash free of soil and 
preserve every piece of the plant having a bud. Those pieces of 
the roots which are not necessary to the buds should be cut into 
lengths of about 3 inches and put in boxes, keeping them uniformly 
moist. While they will not all grow, a certain proportion of them 
will pay for the labor. The divided pieces may be potted or boxed, 
according to fancy, using sandy soil to induce a good growth. Pieces 
of the crown on which there is a number of buds, but not enough 
roots to warrant further division, may be gently forced into growth, 
and when the young shoots are of sufficient length, taken off and 
rooted. 

DIGTAMNUS (Gas Plant). D. alhiis {Fraxhiella) is a good, 
old-fashioned border plant, growing 2 feet in height, with spikes of 
red or white flowers. The plants should be given a good permanent 
position, as they dislike removal. An interesting fact connected 
with the D. alhns is that the seed-pods emit an oil when ripe. Hold- 



1 86 PLANT CULTURE 

ing a lighted match near them on a still Summer eve will cause a 
flash. 

Propagation. They are more easily propagated from seeds 
than by division. Sow seeds in Fall as soon as they ripen. 

DIGITALIS (Foxglove. Witches' Thimbles). One of the 

most stately of hardy perennials. The flowers are large and bell- 
shaped, being arranged in very long racemes. D. purpurea is usually 
treated as a biennial. It is excellent for hardy borders, giving an 
appearance of strength to the usual rambling lines. The color is 
usually rose and white. 

Propagation. Plants are easily raised from seeds. 

DODECATHEON (Shooting Star. American Cowslip). 

D. Meadia grows in shaded positions, but it makes most of its growth 
while the surrounding trees are leafless. It has stems 2 feet long 
with Cyclamen-shaped flowers. The stamens come to a sharp 
point and seem to be shooting ahead, while the petals fall behind 
like the tail of a comet. D. Clevelandii and D. Hendersonii are 
Californian species of great beauty. The soil is composed largely 
of vegetable humus. Most of the species thrive well, but are not 
much grown in gardens; this is probably because their period of 
bloom is short and the plants are apt to be lost sight of and neglected 
when out of bloom. 

Propagation. The seeds should be sown in places where they 
can remain undisturbed for at least a year, as after germinating 
little progress is made the first season beyond the formation of a 
root stock. They can also be propagated by division, which is the 
faster method. 

DORONICUM (Leopard's Bane). The Doronicums are useful 
plants, with yellow, Daisy-like flowers, blooming in May. D. 
plantagineum excelsum is one of the best. Other good kinds are 
D. austriacum, D. caucasicum and D. Pardalianches. The plants 
are of easy culture in rich loam, the flowers being excellent for 
cutting. 

Propagation. They should be increased by division in the Fall. 

DUCHESNEA (Fragaria. Rock Strawberry). The flowers 
of Duchesnea indica (F. indica) are bright yellow. The fruit is dark 
red and produced all through the Summer and early Fall months. 
It is useful as a basket-plant or as a low ground cover. The flowers 
are solitary on the runners. 

Propagation. Increased by roots formed by the runners. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



187 





Digitalis 



1 88 PLANT CULTURE 

ECHINACEA (Purple Cone Flower). E. {Rudbeckia) pur- 
purea is a purple Sunflower; should be grown in the herbaceous bor- 
der, as it is a showy perennial. It reaches a height of from 2 to 3 feet. 

Propagation. It is increased by division and by seeds. 

ERODIUM (Heron's Bill). E. Manescavi is one of the finest 
herbaceous plants for rock gardens or for the edge of a border. It is 
closely related to the Geranium. It can withstand extremes of heat 
and cold and should have a conspicuous position. There is a steady 
succession of bloom from June to August. It is a native of the 
Pyrenees. It grows to a height of 18 inches, having strong, rosy- 
purple flowers. 

Propagation. Can be propagated by division at almost any 
time, or by seeds planted in the Spring. 

FERULA (Giant Fennel). F. communis is probably the best 
known. The flower stalk is about 10 feet tall. Its great beauty lies 
in its striking foHage, which is almost as fine as some species of 
Asparagus. Sometimes new leaves appear shortly before frost and 
these persist over Winter. It is one of the earhest plants to show 
above ground in the Spring. It goes to rest before the end of July. 

Propagation. By seeds. Although seedHngs take a long time 
to make maximum-sized plants they are worth waiting for. About 
the middle of March is the best time to sow the seed, so that they 
can make as much growth as possible before the resting period. 

FUNKIA (Plantain Lily). A small genus of very handsome 
foliage and flowering plants of the Lily family. Most of them are 
from Japan. Sometimes called Hosta or Hostia. Their masses of 
root leaves, as well as their white and bluish flowers, are very 
ornamental. F. ovata has bell-shaped blue flowers and ornamental 
leaves. The variety F. 0. marginata has the foliage margined with 
white. F. lancifolia has short, narrow leaves with a pale lilac 
flower. F. Sieholdiana is a strong-growing species, with large, 
glaucous leaves. The flowers are white, tinged with lilac. It is a 
very desirable species, thriving well in sun or shade. F. suhcordata 
is the commonest species found in old yards. It has very large, 
pure white flowers on long stalks. The leaves are light green, but 
somewhat soft. It blooms late in the season, preferring partial 
shade. 

Propagation. By dividing the clumps. Some species produce 
seeds freely and seedlings can be grown readily if seed is sown as 
soon as ripe. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 189 

GAILLARDIA (Blanket Flower). There are several hand- 
some-flowered varieties in cultivation. They are exceedingly effec- 
tive border plants. Besides, they are also useful for cut flowers, 
lasting a long time in water. G. pulchella var. pida is an annual 
and attains a size of about 2 feet. The flower is yellow, varying to 
red, particularly at the base. G. aristata has given rise to the best 
perennial sorts. 

Propagation. By division, seeds or cuttings in August or 
September. Also by root cuttings taken in the Spring. 

GALAX. G. aphylla, the only species in the genus, is a dwarf 
evergreen, the leaves of which are much used by florists in forming 
backgrounds for floral pieces. It thrives well in partial shade in the 
rockery. 

Propagation. By division before growth begins. 

GENTIANA (Gentian). Although these are among the most 
beautiful of hardy plants they will not pay the florist to handle 
them. With one or two exceptions the kinds which are so popular 
in northern Europe do not succeed in the Middle Atlantic States. 
Our hot, dry Summers are against them. G. Andrewsii and G. 
Saponaria are both natives. They may be planted in half-shaded 
situations, where their roots will penetrate deeply. 

Propagation. By seeds or by division. 

GERANIUM. G. sanguineum is about the only satisfactory 
one in the genus for our hot, dry Summers. For rockwork it is 
probably the best all-round plant grown. It seldom invades the 
territory of other plants, never looks weedy, and is in flower from 
early till late. The flowers are solitary, about i3^ inches across, 
crimson. It blooms from June to August. G. atiemonifolium is 
almost hardy in Washington. It has attractive stems and leaves. 
It may be used in the rockery where it seeds abundantly. 

Propagation. By division, or from seed, sown shortly after 
mid-Summer and wintered in frames. 

GILLENIA. G. trifoliata is one of our less common native 
perennials. It is an exceUent, graceful plant with white flowers 
tinged pink and with red stems for the mixed border, rockeries or 
other hardy gardens. It is hardy and of easy cultivation in any 
good soil. It makes a good showing when naturalized with Adian- 
tuni pedatiim and is well worth introducing to our gardens. 

Propagation. Either by seeds or division. 



I90 PLANT CULTURE 

GOODYERA (Rattlesnake Plantain). In European gardens 
the beautiful native species G. piibescens is much grown. The 
foliage is always in fine condition even in the hardest weather. 
It is very easy to transplant to our rock gardens and shady nooks or 
borders. This and the Trailing Arbutus, together with the Twin 
Flower, make a matchless combination in suitable spots. 

GYPSOPHILA (Baby's Breath. Chalk Plant). G. panicu- 
lata is probably the most popular. Used for cutting, especially in 
the trimming of bouquets. The flowers are small, whitish, but pro- 
duced in great profusion, in large panicles. G. repens {prostrata) is 
the best adapted for the rockery. It blooms from mid-Summer to 
Autumn. They prefer open, rather dry places. 

Propagation. Either by cuttings in Spring or Fall; or by 
seeds, in which instance the seedHngs must get all the light possible, 
as they are liable to get weak. G. paniculata var. fiore-pleno, the 
double sort is grafted on roots of the single-flowered form. 

HELIANTHUS (Sunflower). The perennial species are, for 
the most part, useful late blooming plants. In favorable positions 
some of the species grow very tall. H. decapetakis, single flowered, 
usually grows about 6 feet high. H. multiflorus varies considerably; 
in some forms the florets are arranged like those in the Anemone- 
flowered Chrysanthemum; other forms have them of a uniform size. 
A most useful plant for supplying cut bloom. H. scaherrimus 
( H. Hgidus) blooms in September. H. orgyalis is a species with fine 
leaves, growing 8 to lo feet tall. They should be taken up in late 
Fall or early Spring every two years and the root-stocks divided 
and replanted; otherwise the roots will ramble away and the flowers 
deteriorate. 

Propagation. They are among the easiest plants to increase 
by division. 

HELLEBORUS (Christmas Rose). There are about a dozen 
species, with numerous varieties, principally of hybrid origin. All 
of them are weU worth growing because of their early-blooming 
nature. H. niger is the true Christmas Rose (see page 22), which, 
under favorable conditions, will flower in December, and in colder 
parts of the country it blooms after one or two genial days. 
H. n. altifolius has flowers much larger than the type. H. 
orientalis (the Lenten Rose) has rose-colored flowers — one of the 
best in this latitude. Among its many varieties H. o. guttatus is 
white flowered with purple-spotted sepals. H. 0. colchicus, a species 
with deep purple flowers, blooms early in March. They may be 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 191 

planted in shrubbery borders and rockeries, or if wanted for cut 
flowers they should be planted in beds. They are very sensitive to 
frequent changes of location and once established should not be 
disturbed. 

Propagation. By root division. Seeds of most of them are 
freely ripened. If sown as soon as gathered, and kept in a cold- 
frame, they germinate well; but the seedlings take two or three years 
to make flowering plants. 

HEMEROGALLIS (Day Lily). H.fuha, the species so com- 
mon in waste places all over the Eastern States, is not a native; 
but with H. flava, less commonly seen, it has escaped from culti- 
vation. H. minor (graminea) is the earliest to bloom, opening dur- 
ing the latter half of May. H. Dumortierii has orange-yellow flowers 
tinged with brown. H. Middendorffii is deep golden yellow. 

Propagation. The rarer species are successfully raised from 
seed sown in Summer as soon as ripe, and the young plants allowed 
to remain in the seed boxes until the following Spring, when they 
may be planted out in rows to increase in size. The double-flowered 
and variegated forms of H. fulva should be increased by division. 
They are all desirable border plants. 

HEPATICA. One of the earliest Spring-flowering plants. In 
their native habitats they are usually found growing on southern 
slopes partially shaded by the foliage of trees and shrubs in Summer, 
but with the benefit of full sunshine when developing flowers and 
seeds. Of the species H. triloba, the varieties are very numerous, 
some of them having been long under cultivation in European gar- 
dens, where they are highly prized. H. t. rubra is bright red; H. t. 
alba, white; H. t. ccBrulea, lilac. There are also double red and 
double blue varieties, the former being very common, the latter 
somewhat scarce. H. angulosa is a distinct species, with very 
large, blue flowers. H. angulosa also has white, rose colored and 
lilac forms. They should remain undisturbed from year to year. 

Propagation. It is easiest propagated by division in Autumn. 

HEUCHERA (Alum Root. Coral Bells). Of this genus there 
are some twenty species native of North America, most of which 
are hardly worth cultivating. There is one, however, which is 
rightly considered as being among the most ornamental of late 
Spring blooming perennials; this is H. sanguinea. It has long 
panicles of reddish-pink or white flowers. Large plants which show 
signs of weakness should be lifted, divided, and replanted. They 



192 



PLANT CULTURE 




Heuchera sanguinea 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 193 

will need this treatment about once in two years, as they are in- 
clined to get weak when they remain long in one place. 

Propagation. Seeds should be sown during March, in the 
greenhouse. The seedlings are quite small at first, and they should 
be allowed to make considerable headway before being potted off. 
They are also propagated by division, October being the best 
month for dividing. 

IBERIS (Candytuft). The perennial species are in reaHty 
dwarf, evergreen shrubs. They are attractive in appearance all 
the year round. They come in bloom the latter part of April and 
last till the end of May. There are about half a dozen species and 
varieties. /. sempervirens and /. s. superba are the best; they grow 
from 9 to 1 2 inches high. /. semperflorens is a taller growing species 
with large, pure white flowers. /. Tenoreana grows about 6 inches 
high. It blooms in May; flowers purplish white. /. corifolia has 
the flowers in flat, compact heads. /. gibraltarica is the largest of 
all; the flowers are white, tinged with pink. It is the most striking 
and showy of the perennial kinds. It is somewhat straggling in 
growth. /. g. hybrida is more compact, with the flowers at first 
white, changing to rosy purple. They succeed best when let alone. 
Once planted and not disturbed, they soon form a dense 
foHage. 

Propagation. Although most of the species produce seed 
freely enough the seedlings are of a straggling growth for the first 
season. Much better plants are raised from good-sized cuttings 
taken at the end of September, and put in sand, in a cold propagat- 
ing frame. If kept close and moist they will root well. The cuttings, 
when rooted, should be put in 3-inch pots, and plunged in a cold- 
frame for the Winter. 

IRIS. There are fully 170 species; the varieties of some of 
them are numerous. The genus is divided into two sections. In 
one section, known as Xiphions, the species have bulbous, tuberous 
root-stocks; one or two of them, such as /. reticulata and /. per ska, 
produce the flowers before the leaves. (Discussed on page 264.) 
In the second section many of the species have thick rhizomes, 
which creep along the surface of the soil, or a short distance be- 
neath. To this section most of the very numerous garden varieties 
belong. They are known as German Irises, but having been in 
cultivation for a long time, it is impossible to tell just from what 
species some of them have originated. 



194 



PLANT CULTURE 




Iris Madam Chereau 

An Aphylla Variety 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



195 



The species which are commonly included among the German 
Irises are /. squalens, I. variegata, I. germanica, I. aphylla, I.floren- 
iina and /. samhucina. Numerous varieties have sprung from each 
species, and from these there are evidently many cross breeds. /. 
german ica is a handsome species. The flowers of the known varieties 
of the /. aphylla have a white ground, with the margins marked 




Iris pallida dalmatica 



lavender and purple. Mme. Chereau is a well-known form. The 
varieties of I. amcena have the standards usually white and the falls 
variously marked with violet blue. In /. variegata the very nu- 
merous varieties have the standards yellow; the falls are of a wide 
range of color — dark yellow, maroon, dark purple and crimson 
brown. The forms of /. sqiialcns have the standards copper-bronze 
and fawn colored, and the falls among other colors are maroon, 



196 PLANT CULTURE 

purple, bronzy-yellow, violet and lavender. /. pallida has lavender 
standards, and the falls of the same color shaded with rose. /. p. 
dalmatica is a very large and sweetly-scented flower. The standards 
and falls are lavender. In the varieties of /. neglecta the standards 
range in color from lavender to purple and the falls crimson, 
purple, violet, white and intermediate shades. /. florentina is 
almost pure white, and comes into flower from the 15th to the 
end of May. 

/. piimila, a dwarf species, is usually out of bloom early in 
May; it has many fine varieties. /. pumila and the German Iris 
have been crossed to give a semi-dwarf group known as 
Intermediate Iris. /. cristata is a native of the Eastern 
States, and is well adapted for half-shaded places in the 
rockery. It is the dwarfest of all the rhizomatous species. /. 
versicolor, Blue Flag, and /. pseiido-acorus, a yellow sort, although 
thriving under conditions which suit most of the garden forms, 
will do better when the soil is continually moist. /. graminea and 
/. sihirica, the Siberian Iris, are both worthy of cultivation; they 
have long, narrow leaves, and small flowers, /. Icevigata, the Japan- 
ese Iris, better known as /. Kcempferi, will also thrive in borders, 
especially when given a deep mulch of well-rotted manure; but 
they show up to better advantage when grown in fairly moist ground. 
This species is one of the latest to bloom; it has many varieties, 
some of which are very large and showy. The expanded flowers, 
when used for cutting, will not stand much handling; but the buds, 
when nearly full size, will open out when placed in water; in this 
condition they may be shipped long distances. 

Propagation. The rhizomatous species and forms may be 
rapidly increased by division. Large masses may be reduced in 
size and replanted early in March without interfering with the crop 
of flowers. In dividing into smaller pieces, it is better to wait until 
the plants have completed their growth, when they may be cut in 
small pieces, heeled in where they are slightly protected in Winter, 
and put in permanent positions in March or April. They will 
stand a rich soil, but should not be deeply planted, as they are then 
liable to decay during wet weather in Summer and Autumn. 

KNIPHOFIA (Red-hot Poker). K. alooides, better known as 
Tritoma Uvaria (Torch Lily), is an old-fashioned border plant with 
long, narrow, dark green leaves and tall spikes of flowers, at first 
coral red, changing to orange, and subsequently to a greenish yellow. 
It is a native of South Africa, and in locaHties where the Winters 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



197 




o 

w 
o 

N 

s 

00 



o 

l-H 



igS 



PLANT CULTURE 




Iris l^vigata (Japan Iris)— See Page 196 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 199 

are severe it should, along with the other species and varieties, be 
protected by covering the crowns with half decayed leaves or stable 
litter. K. a. maxima has larger flowers. K. Macowanll, is an orange- 
red flowered species. K.Leichtlinii is one of the tallest of the genus 
and has bright yellow flowers. There are numerous hybrid forms, 
all of them desirable for the herbaceous border. They thrive best 
in deep, rich soil, and in fully exposed situations. 

Propagation. Seedlings of most of the kinds may be raised, 
but the}^ are somewhat slow in making flowering plants. Old speci- 
mens are easily divided, and give good sized pieces to start. Where 
a particular variety is wanted dividing is the best method of propa- 
gation, as they hybridize very readily and do not come true 
from seeds. 

LEONTOPODIUM (Edelweiss). L, alpinum, although a 
native of the Alps of Switzerland, thrives luxuriantly when planted 
out on rockwork fully exposed to the sun. It is a low plant, 4 to 12 
inches high, densely covered with a whitish wool, the attractive 
portion being the flat, star like cluster of woolly floral leaves sur- 
rounding the true flowers, which are small and inconspicuous. 

Propagation. By seeds sown Feb. i to be placed in open 
border about May i. Usually there are very few flowers the first 
year of sowing. Also propagated by division in the Fall and Win- 
tering over in coldframe. 

LESPEDEZA (Bush Clover). L. Sieboldii, also known at Des- 
modium pendulijioriim. The plant has a shrub like growth, reaching 
from 4 to 6 feet in height. The flowers, which are small and pea- 
shaped, are very numerously produced in long, pendulous-branched 
panicles late in the season. The color is rose purple. L. japonica 
has pure white flowers, probably a form of L. Sieboldii, blooming a 
week or ten days later. They are very desirable on account of their 
late bloom. 

Propagation. Cuttings taken before the flowers appear, will 
root freely. They should be kept indoors to encourage growth be- 
fore going to rest. Old plants may be divided before starting into 
growth. 

LEWISIA (Bitter Root). L. rediviva is a member of the 
Portulaca famly. It is quite a small plant, but its very large 
pink or white flowers are quite attractive. It is desirable for 
rockeries, needing perfect drainage, a sunny position and careful 
watering during the flowering period. It grows best in sandy soils 



200 PLANT CULTURE 

with rocks around it. It is the State flower of Montana, the 
starchy root being dug in the Spring by the Indians, and eaten. 
For best effect it should be planted in groups. 
Propagation. By the fleshy root. 

LIGULARIA (Farfugium). The fine Japanese plant L. 
grande is one of the best plants for the dwelling house. There is a 
beautiful kind with white spotted leaves which is supposed to be 
as hardy as the yellow spotted one, which, by the way, has stood 
outdoors at Washington, D. C, for the last 30 years. 

Propagation. Old plants, with numerous growths, will stand 
division best in early Spring. Give the pieces a week in the sand 
bed previous to potting, in order to start new roots. They thrive 
well in a loamy soil, well drained. The pieces are potted after mid- 
Summer in a compost consisting largely of leafmold and sand, placed 
under cover of sash on the approach of cold weather, to preserve 
the leaves in a fresh state, and brought indoors when wanted to 
bloom. 

LINDELOFIA, L. longiflora (spectabilis) is a low-growing 
borage- wort, with handsome, bluish-red flowers. It grows 12 to 18 
inches high. It is a very reliable herbaceous plant, quite hardy and 
stands the sun well. Does weU in any kind of soil. Winter kills 
easily and should be given a sheltered position. 

Propagation. If seeds are sown late in Summer, the plants 
will bloom the following season. It is also propagated by division. 

LINNiEA (The Northern Twin Flower). The famous L, 
borealis, although a humble looking plant, will never be seen in its 
native habitat by the ordinary observer, and yet it is the most 
beautiful and graceful of all our hardy plants, and plant-lovers who 
examine the flowers always admit its great beauty. It is found wild 
in Great Britain and in several places in Continental Europe. In 
America, it is found very abundantly in the Catskill mountains, in 
JMaine, Colorado and is especially plentiful in the Canadian Rockies 
and in W^ashington State. When grown in a greenhouse in hanging 
baskets, the growths sometimes attain a length of over 3 feet. It 
was the plant selected by the immortal Linnasus to bear his name. 
It blooms from June to August. They are hardy in the North 
and are graceful, dainty plants for rockeries, preferring a shaded, 
moist position, and porous, peaty or humus soil. 

Propagation. Usually by division; also by cuttings of soft or 
half ripened wood under glass. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 201 

LOBELIA. The native species, L. cardinalis and L. syphilitica, 
are, in this latitude, much more satisfactory than any of the gaudy- 
flowered forms oiL.fulgens andZ. splendens. L. cardinalis is among 
the handsomest of herbaceous plants; the flowers are bright scarlet. 
It must have abundance of water when growing. L. syphilitica, a 
blue-flowered species, will succeed well in a drier soil. 

Propagation. By seeds planted in late Summer for flowering 
plants the following season. 

LUPINUS (Lupine). L. polyphyllus is the most popular va- 
riety. The flowers are deep blue. L. p. albijiorus is a white form. 
L. p. Moerheimii, a recent introduction, is a beautiful, long-lived 
plant. The flowers are a combination of the dark and light shades 
of pink. All of the Lupines succeed in any good soil. However, 
they are said to have an aversion to lime. For best effect, they 
should be planted in masses. They bloom from June to September. 
Among the annuals L. luteus, a yellow, and L. hirsutus, the blue, 
are both popular. 

Propagation. By division; also by seeds planted where the 
plants are finally desired, as they do not bear transplanting well. 

LYCHNIS. There are numerous species in this genus which 
are desirable as border or rockery plants. L. alba flore-pletto (L. 
vespertind) has large, double white flowers. It blooms in May and 
June. L.fiilgens is little grown in this country. The scarlet Lychnis, 
L. chalcedonica (Maltese Cross), grows about 2 3^ feet tall and blooms 
in June. L. Viscaria (German Catchfly) has an extended blooming 
period. It is an erect-growing plant, usually about a foot high, 
with rosy-red flowers. It has a sticky substance on the under side 
of the leaf which catches ants. It is seen often in old gardens and 
has a tufted habit. There are also double-flowered forms. They 
are all of simple culture requirements. (See page 202.) 

Propagation. They are propagated by division. All of the 
species are easily grown from seeds, blooming the second year. 

LYSIMACHIA (Loosestrife). Most of the species are of 
weedy growth and increase rapidly. L. Nummular la is the Money- 
wort, or Creeping Jenny; useful as a creeper or for hanging baskets 
or vases. There is a beautiful form with yellowish leaves. L. 
clethroides is a handsome species, growing from 2 to 3 feet high; 
the flowers, which are white, are arranged in long, drooping spikes. 
They are of easy culture, thriving best in a moist soil. 



202 



PLANT CULTURE 




HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 203 

Propagation. It is readily propagated by division in late 
Autumn or early Spring. 

LYTHRUM (Purple Loosestrife). The species L. Salicaria 
grows from 3 to 4 feet high. The flowers are of a rosy -purple color. 
They flower in Summer and are moisture-loving, enjoying swamps 
and low grounds. 

Propagation. By division, seeds and stem cuttings. 

MENYANTHES (Buck Bean). M. trifoliata is a good bog- 
plant. It does well in any moderately wet places, it being neces- 
sary always to keep the roots moist. It often grows in shallow 
water. It has creeping root-stalks and white or purplish flowers in 
Spring. 

Propagation. By division of root-stalks. 

MERTENSIA (Virginian Cowslip). There are several species 
of Mertensia all worth cultivating, but unfortunately some are not 
so easily grown as M. virginica. This is by far the showiest species 
and if the conditions under which it grows in a wild state are imi- 
tated, there will be no difficulty in its cultivation. In Spring most 
of its growth is made without shade — that is, before the trees are 
in leaf. It is usually found in damp woods. In this locality its 
period of blooming is from April 15 to the middle of May. It grows 
from 12 to 18 inches high. The leaves have a slightly glaucous hue; 
the flowers are arranged in drooping terminal clusters, reddish- 
purple in the bud, subsequently changing in the open flower to a 
beautiful light blue. It is one of our handsomest native plants. 

Propagation. By division. 

MIMULUS (Monkey Flower). M. Moschaius is an old- 
fashioned plant with a musky odor. It will keep in a frame during 
the Winter, and may be brought indoors early in the season, divided 
into small pieces and potted. It grows best in a shaded cool house, 
or it may be planted out in a moist, shady spot. 

MONARDA (Horse Mint). These plants, although not averse 
to moisture, will thrive in very dry soil. There are several species, 
and one or two varieties common in gardens. The best known is 
M. didyma, a species with bright scarlet heads of flowers. M. 
fistulosa has purple flowers. M. f. alba is pure white. They are in 
bloom during mid-Summer. 

Propagation. Among the easiest plants to increase by division, 
best done in the Spring, as Autumn-divided plants often winter kill. 



204 PLANT CULTURE 

MORINA. M. longifolia is a very choice perennial, reaching 
2 feet in height. The flowers are produced in whorls arranged on a 
long stalk. The buds are white, changing later to pink and crimson. 
Often catalogued under the name of Whorl Flower. They are suit- 
able for borders or rockeries. 

Propagation. Seeds of this species are easily obtainable. 
When sown in Spring they do not bloom till the following 
year. 

MYOSOTIS (Forget-me-not). In this genus there are nu- 
merous species, most of which are of little value. M. alpestris and 
M, sylvatica are commonly cultivated. M. alpestris is a dwarf form. 
Af. dissitiflora is a biennial, its leaves are white-edged. There are 
blue, white, and pink forms. In Washington, D. C, they are planted 
in the Public Gardens, and along with Pansies they bloom during 
April and May. They are sometimes effectively used among Hya- 
cinths and Tuhps, in well-protected spots, keeping up a good display 
of bloom until the time arrives for filling the beds with their usual 
Summer occupants. Forget-me-nots prefer moist, half-shady 
places, but an open sunny border will do if not too dry. 

Propagation. Seeds may be sown late in Summer to have 
bushy flowering plants for Spring blooming. They are also propa- 
gated by division and cuttings. 

(ENOTHERA (Evening Primrose). Handsome plants for 
rockwork or border. CE. Lamar ckiana grows to a height of 5 '"t; 
flowers yellow. It is biennial in duration. (E. Fraseri is a dwarf 
species suitable for the rockery. (E. missouriensis has large, yellow 
flowers on trailing stems. CE. alha (taraxacifolia) is a trailer, with 
very large pure white flowers opening at night. Plants come up 
freely from self-sown seed. (E. eximia is a choice dwarf species 
with very large white flowers. The (Enotheras are of wide distri- 
bution in North America. They are open-ground, sun-loving plants. 
"Some of them grow on the seacoasts and others in moist ground. 
All do well in ordinary garden soil. 

Propagation. All of the kinds are raised from seed sown in 
September. They are also raised from cuttings. 

ONONIS (Restharrow), 0, rotundifolia is a very desirable 
dwarf, shrub-like plant, with Pea-shaped, Rose-colored flowers. 
A native of Southern Europe. It is of easy culture in border and 
rockery, not liking too much shade. 

Propagation. By division or by seeds. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 205 

ONOSMA. 0. stellulatum var. tauricum is a dwarf, evergreen 
plant, forming dense tufts of narrow, hairy leaves. The flowers, 
which are bright yellow, tubular, and i^ inches long, are arranged 
in branching cymes. It succeeds well on high ground or sunny 
rockery, with light, open, deep soil. 

Propagation. The plant is best propagated by seeds, and by 
cuttings of the ripened growths taken during the end of September. 
They must be rooted cool. 

OPHIOPOGON. The most useful species of these dwarf ever- 
green plants isO. gracilis; it is used for planting in dense shade 
where few other plants thrive. The leaves are narrow; flowers 
small, white, followed by beautiful blue berries, which con- 
tinue on the plant all Winter. A. Jahuran is a taller species; the 
variegated form is a handsome plant. O.japoniciis has also a varie- 
gated form. It is used much as a dark green lawn-cover standing 
well in a drought. It needs no clipping and does well under the 
shade of trees. 

Propagation. Increased by division in Spring. 

OROBUS (Bitter Vetch). The species O. vernus, often classed 
under Lathyrus, comes in bloom during April and lasts only for a 
short time. The flowers on opening are purple and blue, the purple 
changing to blue as the blossoms mature. They differ from the 
Lathyrus, in that they have no tendrils. There are several other de- 
sirable species, such as O. pannoniciis, O. flaccidus and O. aurantia. 
The above are seldom listed in American catalogues. They are of 
comparatively easy cultivation. < 

Propagation. Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe. As the 
plants make but little headway during the first season they should 
be allowed to remain in the seed pan till the following Spring. 

PACHYSANDRA. There are only two species in this genus, 
both of which are in cultivation. P. procumhens is a North American 
plant. The flowers are very inconspicuous, produced in March and 
April at the bases of the stems made the preceding year. In P. 
terminalis they are situated on the ends of the shoots. Both species 
are evergreen. P. terminalis is of a brighter green than P. pro- 
cumhens. They are very useful for planting under trees; are deep- 
rooting and stand drought well. They are good for rockeries. 

Propagation. Easily propagated by division. 

P^ONIA (Paeony, Peony, or Piony). This genus is divided 
into two sections or sub-genera — shrubby (see p. 326) and herba- 



2o6 



PLANT CULTURE 




Peony festiva maxima 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 207 

ceous; the last-named section is subdivided into three groups, with 
well marked botanical characters. The double-flowering herbaceous 
kinds, which bloom during the latter part of May and in June, are 
varieties of P. alhiflora. There are hundreds of kinds in cultivation, 
varying in color from white through the different shades of pink to 
deep crimson. Their successful culture demands a deep and well- 
manured soil, with a heavy mulching of manure during the Winter 
and Spring months. The varieties of the European Paeonies come 
into flower several weeks in advance of the Chinese varieties. P. 
officinalis has double rose, red, and pinkish white forms and they 
are earlier to bloom than the P. alhiflora varieties. P. paradoxa 
fimhriata has double purple flowers. P. tenuifolia flore pleno bears 
medium-sized double flowers, bright crimson in color. The leaves 
of this species are of a feathery nature. It is one of the most dis- 
tinct and handsome Paeonies in cultivation. 

There are several showy European species, some of which have 
numerous single-flowered varieties. They aU bloom much earlier 
than the Chinese Paeonies, and are useful for the embeUishment of 
the herbaceous border and for cutting. P. anomala blooms during 
the first week in May; this sort is sometimes sold as P. tenuifolia. 
The leaf divisions are fewer than in that species and broader. P. 
arietina is the earliest species to flower, expanding in this locality 
by the end of April. There are about a dozen distinct varieties. 
P. Wittmanniana is another early bloomer. Of P. officinalis and P. 
peregrina there are numerous single-flowered varieties. 

Propagation. The herbaceous Paeonies are increased by seeds 
and by division of the crowns. The seeds are sown as soon as ripe, 
so that they may germinate the following Spring. They should be 
sown in a frame, and allowed to remain for a year before transplant- 
ing. Old plants are best divided in October; except with rare 
kinds the divided pieces should be large. Plant deep enough to 
make certain of the crowns being well beneath the surface. 

PAPAVER (Poppy). In the herbaceous section of this popular 
genus P. orientale and its variety P. 0. bracteatum are the most im- 
portant kinds. There are several forms of each, varying chiefly in 
the colors of the flowers. Most of them are of different shades of 
scarlet, and very large. The plants, according to variety, vary in 
height from i3^ to 3 feet. They bloom during May and June, ac- 
cording to locality. P. nudicaule is a choice species with orange, 
yellow or white flowers. The double forms are often grown for cut 
flowers. 



2o8 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation, The stock of P. orientate is best increased by- 
seed. When the capsules show signs of ripening they should be 
carefully watched, as they open at the top, and a slight movement 
of the atmosphere will displace the seeds. Sow in boxes soon as 
ripe, but not too thickly, so as to do away with the necessity of 
pricking off — an operation which does not succeed as well as could 
be wished. The seedlings will make sufficient headway to pass the 
Winter without freezing injury in a coldframe. During March 
bring into a cool house, and when they show signs of growing, pot 
off into 2)4.- or 3-inch pots, according to size. They should always 
be planted from pots, as they do not lift well. In the warmer 
parts of the country the plants of P. nudicaule will succeed fairly 
well if they be raised from seed sown during September, and either 
planted out late or wintered in a frame and put out very early. 
In the colder parts plants are freely raised from self-sown seed. 
It is a species which dislikes extreme heat. 

PENTSTEMON (Beard Tongue). The garden varieties are 
the offspring of P. gloxmioides and P. Cobcea. In locaUties where 
climatic conditions are favorable they are much prized. In this sec- 
tion they are short-lived, owing to the extreme heat. There are 
many extremely handsome species. P. (Chelone) barbatus and P. b, 
Torreyi will thrive almost anywhere, as they cover the ground with 
dense, short growths. The flowers are produced in panicles about 
3 feet high; they vary in color from light pink to carmine. They 
should have good, deep garden soil. They thrive best with full ex- 
posure to the sun. 

Propagation. They are increased by division or by seed. 
Seed is usually preferred, many of the varieties blooming the first 
year. 

PHLOX. P. subulata (Moss Pink) is the parent of many 
beautiful forms extensively used for the edges of borders and for 
rockwork. In April they are covered with myriads of flowers close 
to the foliage. Among the white-flowered forms are P. s, Nelso7ti, 
P. s. aristata and P. s, nivalis. P. s. Vivid has rose-colored flowers 
with carmine center. P. s. frondosa is a pink variety with dark 
center. Their propagation is usually effected by cuttings — a slow 
method. If the plants are kept suppHed with water during Septem- 
ber they will emit roots at the bases of the principal growths, and 
during October these may be cut up and heeled in on a sheltered 
border, potted, or removed to permanent positions, very early in 
Spring. Other desirable dwarf species are P. amcena, P. reptans and 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 



209 




2IO PLANT CULTURE 

P. divaricata. The well-known and deservedly popular herbaceous 
Phloxes are divided into two sections, early and late flowering. 
The first or early blooming section is known as P. sufruticosa, 
being varieties oi P. glaherrimasujfruticosa. The late blooming sec- 
tion is known as P. decussata, and among the species which have con- 
tributed varieties are P. maculata and P. paniculata. The varieties 
are exceedingly numerous. In recent years some very beautiful 
forms have been sent out. They stand well as cut flowers. The 
plants should be lifted, divided and replanted every second year, 
as when they remain long without removal the panicles are small. 
Early in March is the best time for the operation. The growths will 
be much improved by a heavy mulching of manure about the crowns 
during the growing season. 

Propagation Cuttings may be taken from the plants as they 
start into growth and rooted in a temperature suitable for Carna- 
tion cuttings; also by division and root cuttings. Seeds give new and 
interesting forms. 

PHYGELIUS (Cape Fuchsia). P. capensis is hardy in places 
where the mercury does not fall lower than lo degrees F. It endures 
the heat better than Geraniums. The trouble with this desirable 
plant is that it continues to grow during the Autumn months instead 
of going to rest. It can be planted as far north as Philadelphia if 
protected. It can be wintered in a coldframe. 

Propagation, By seeds or cuttings. These cuttings should be 
taken from the Autumn growth of outdoor plants. 

PHYSALIS. P. Franchetii, the Chinese Lantern Plant, is a 
most showy and striking plant. It has a red-colored calyx enclosing 
a large berry of the same color. The high colors do not develop 
until the fruit is ripe. They should be given a warm, sunny 
exposure. 

Propagation. By seeds sown indoors and forwarded to the 
open ground; also by cuttings. 

PLATYCODON. P. grandiflorutn (Chinese Bell Flower) is an 
erect growing plant, with flowers resembling those of the Cam- 
panula. P. g. Mariesii is a variety of dwarfer habit, and bears 
larger flowers. The roots are thick and fleshy. The Platycodon re- 
quires a medium sand loam and does not succeed in either extremely 
stiff or sand soils. In the Fall the old stems should not be cut away, 
but be allowed to die away naturally; otherwise the crown may be 
injured. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 211 

Propagation. It can be propagated either by seeding or divi- 
sion. Seeding is more successful and a greater variety of flowers 
are obtained in this way. More care and skill are necessary in divi- 
sion on account of the fleshy root-stalk. 

PLUMBAGO (Valloradia). Ceratostigina pliimhaginoides , or 
as it is more commonly called Plumbago Larpentce, is a hardy 
species, with deep blue flowers, growing to a height of one foot. It 
blooms from July till freezing weather. 

Culture. The plants should be lifted during the first half of 
September, the shoots shortened back, and several pieces put to- 
gether in 4-inch po.s, saving as many of the creeping underground 
stems as possible. They require an intermediate temperature. 

Propagation. Propagation is effected by division. 

PRATIA. P. angulata is one of the most showy plants in cul- 
tivation. It is sometimes called Lobelia littoralis. It is a slender 
creeper, has white, star-like flowers, and is quick-growing. It is 
admirably adapted to rockwork. It does well in shady places. 
Where the Winters are severe, it should be lifted and wintered in a 
cold house. 

Propagation. Quickly propagated by division; also by cut- 
tings. 

PRIMULA (Primrose). There are few of the species but what 
are worth growing. Many of them, however, are unsuited to the 
climate of the Eastern States, it being too cold in Winter and too 
hot in Summer. A few of the species and many of their varieties 
do well. P. vulgaris and the varieties with double yellow, red, 
purple, white, and lilac flowers succeed well if they are given water 
during the growing period. They will even stand in almost full sun- 
shine, but they thrive best in half-shaded spots. P. elatior is the 
Oxlip, and what is known as the Cowslip is P. veris. Polyanthus 
is a garden race, said to be a hybrid between the last-named species 
and P. vulgaris. The different varieties are useful for rockwork and 
for borders. A good selection of forms may be had from seed sown 
in Spring ; but the plants will not bloom until the second year. Some 
of the Himalayan species do fairly well in this latitude if given a 
position shaded from sun in Winter and mulched in Summer. P. 
denticulata and its forms are among the best. P. sikkimensis should 
be tried in damp, shady ground by the margins of lakes. P. Sieboldii 
produces pure white, crimson and hlac-colored flowers; very useful 
for cutting. The plants have creeping root-stocks, and thrive best 



212 PLANT CULTURE 

when protected by a frame in Winter. In the Fall those plants 
which are to remain in the open during Winter should be gone over, 
and those which have their crowns above the surface of the soil 
lifted and replanted, so that the roots may be protected. 

Propagation. These sorts are best propagated by seeds or 
division very early in the season. 

RAMONDIA (Rosette Mullein). R. pyrenaica is a dwarf 
Alpine plant with neat rosettes of leaves and beautiful, purplish- 
blue flowers. They require perfect drainage. They may be planted 
in small pockets in the rockery in a slightly shaded and elevated 
position and given good peaty soil. 

Propagation. Old plants can be increased by division. Leaf 
cutting is another method. Seeds can be sown in the Spring, the 
small plants grown along in pots for the first Summer and kept in 
a cool, shady place, they will make neat little plants by the end of 
Autumn. They should be wintered in a coldframe. 

RHEUM. Related to the Pie Plant. However, R. nohile, from 
the Sikkim Mountains, is one of the most beautiful plants in culti- 
vation. It flowered at the Edinburgh Botanic Garden in 1879 and 
attracted great attention. R. palmatum, from an ornamental point 
of view, is the next best species, growing to a height of 12 feet. It 
really should be given a trial in the Middle West and 
California. 

Propagation. Only by seeds which are easily obtainable from 
the Botanical Gardens in India. 

RUDBECKIA (Coneflower) . Nearly all of the species are 
worthy of a place in the herbaceous border. A few of them are 
valuable for supplying cut flowers. R. speciosa (R. Newmmmii) 
grows from 2 to 3 feet high; the color of the outer florets is orange- 
yellow, while those in the center are almost black. R. maxima is a 
much taller species, valuable for cutting. R. laciniata attains a 
height of 4 feet. The variety known as Golden Glow has large, 
double yellow flowers; the best of all for cutting. R. purpurea 
{Echinacea purpurea) has purple florets. The Coneflowers are of 
easy cultivation, in almost any soil or situation, from a semi-shady 
position to full sun. If cut back severely when through blooming 
and well-watered it often produces a second crop of flowers. 

Propagation. Some of the species are easily raised from seeds, 
but most of them may be divided freely if the work is done before 
they make much growth in Spring. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 213 




RUDBECKIA NeWMANII 



214 PLANT CULTURE 

SALVIA. The species S. pratensis has very long spikes of 
flowers in bright blue, rose and white. They flower in May, and 
are exceedingly attractive. They all seed freely, and if sown early 
in the Fall, will bloom the following Spring. S. azurca and 6*. a. 
grandiflora are tall-growing species, with blue flowers. 

Propagation. They are easily increased from cuttings in the 
Fall months, also by Fall-sown seeds. 

SANGUINARIA (Blood Root). S. canadensis is a dwarf- 
growing native plant that, in sunny positions, is one of the earliest 
to open its flowers, which are pure white, about 2 inches across. 
It is Spring-blooming and is used for borders and rock gardens. 
It prefers a light soil. 

Propagation. It is increased from seeds and by division. 

SAPONARIA (Soapwort). S. officinalis (Bouncing Bet) is 
naturalized over a wide area in the United States. The flowers are 
usually double. S. ocymoidcs is one of the best rockwork trailers. 
It passes the Winter with a mass of short growths near the crown; 
these, on the approach of warm weather, grow very fast, subse- 
quently forming wide-spreading masses of light or dark pink flowers. 
S. 0. splendidissima has rosy-crimson flowers. The plants are in 
full bloom during the latter part of May, with scattering flowers 
for a long time after. 

Propagation. Seeds should be sown in September, and the 
plants wintered in a frame. Early planting is necessary. Also 
propagated by division. 

SARRACENIA (Pitcher Plant). In the District of Columbia 
the only species which does not stand the Winter out of doors is 
S. Driimmondii. S. purpurea is the hardiest of the number when 
plants are obtained from Northern sources. They should be planted 
in a mixture of peat, sand and moss, and the surface given a coating 
of moss, which must be kept damp, especially during the growing 
season. Pockets of suitable soil should be made for them at the 
margins of artificial lakes and ponds. Alkaline water is always 
detrimental. (For other species see page 153.) 

Propagation. By seeds. 

SAXIFRAGA (Saxifrage). The extremes of temperature in 
Summer and Winter work havoc with the great majority of the 
species, especially those of the mossy and encrusted sections. S. 
peltata, a Californian species, does grandly where it enjoys moist 
soil. The leaves are from i to 2 feet in length. The plant blooms 
during the latter part of April. S. sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard), a 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 215 

Japanese species, has withstood the Winters here for a long number 
of years. The foliage is handsome, even in mid-Winter. There is a 
form with the leaves beautifully marked with creamy-white and 
red. The section to which S. ligulata belongs has some exceedingly 
handsome species, among which are S. purpurescens, flowering in 
May. S. cordijolia, with bright pink flowers, is frequently seen 
here peeping through the snow. S. crassifolia is another early 
bloomer. Partial shade is essential during the Summer. In Winter 
they should be given an ample covering of leaves. 

Propagation. All of them are easy to increase by division. 
Some of them make offshoots by which the plants are easily 
propagated. Some make bulblets and are increased in this manner. 

SCUTELLARIA (Skull-Cap). A rather large genus, embrac- 
ing stove, greenhouse and hardy species. 5. baicalensis {macrantha) 
is one of the best for outdoor use. The stems are at first procum- 
bent, the flower spikes ascending. Our hot, dry Summers suit this 
plant well. It blooms during July and August. The flowers are pur- 
plish-blue, and are produced in great abundance. It grows about a 
foot high. 5. japonica does equally as well as S. baicalensis, the 
flowers are much smaller. In 6*. orientalis the flowers are yellow; 
the plant grows from 9 inches to i foot high. 

Propagation. By cuttings or by seeds. 

SEDUM (Stonecrop). Many of the species differ from each 
other in habit; some of them are herbaceous plants. S. spectahilc 
grows 2 feet high, forming large and neat clumps; flowers pink. 
It is the showiest of the Sedums and is used a great deal for borders. 
S. M aximowiczii is an erect growing species, about i foot in height, 
with yellow flowers. S. maximum, a very variable species, sometimes 
attains a height of 2 3^ feet. S. Sieholdii is quite hardy in this lo- 
cality; it makes a fine plant for pots or baskets, but it does not as- 
sociate well with other plants in the same receptacle. S. acre, S. a. 
aureum and S. sexangulare form dense growths from 2 to 3 inches 
in height. The yellow flowers are produced in great abundance 
about the beginning of June; their mossy-like growths are attract- 
ive all the year round. S. spurium {S. stolonijerum) has very hand- 
some pink flowers, produced sparingly from mid-Summer till late in 
Fall. The Sedums prefer sandy soil; are averse to a wet position in 
the Winter. They grow readily where many other plants will not 
thrive. 

Propagation. All of the species named are increased by divi- 
sion; also by seeds. 



2i6 PLANT CULTURE 

SEMPERVIVUM (Houseleek). Dwarf, succulent plants, well 
suited for dry, exposed positions in the rockery. S. tectorum is the 
species commonly grown. S. arachnoideiim has small rosettes of 
leaves connected at the tips by a cobweb-like formation. Other 
well-known species are S. calcareum (S. calif ornicum) , S. Funckii, 
S. hirtum and S. soholiferum. They will thrive in almost any kind 
of soil. Houseleeks are cultivated more for foliage than for flowers. 
They are used considerably for carpet-bedding, rockwork and cover- 
ing dry banks and sandy wastes. They are of easy culture. 

Propagation. The hardy species are easily increased by divi- 
sion, also by means of the offsets or rosettes. 

SILENE (Catchfiy). In this very large genus there are 
three perennial species, each one growing only a few inches tall, 
which are among our finest rockwork plants. S. Schafta has bright 
purple flowers; it is a very deep rooting species, and stands dry 
weather well, keeping in bloom for several months. It can be raised 
from seed; or old plants divide well in October. Dig up the plant 
carefully, saving all of the roots, and in dividing give each piece as 
much root as possible; put in pots and keep in a coldframe for the 
Winter. S. alpesiris is a neat growing little plant with white flowers. 
S. tnaritima forms a dense carpet of growth, the branches from a 
single plant covering a large surface. The flowers are white and 
are rather showy; they last only a short time, however. The foliage 
is handsome for the greater part of the year, being very neat and of 
a whitish cast. 

Propagation. Seeds ripen in abundance; they should be sown 
early in September. S. maritima does not produce seed and must 
be propagated by division and cuttings. All of the other varieties 
may be propagated by division and cuttings. 

SPIGELIA (Pink Root). S. 7narilandica is one of the daintiest 
of perennial plants. It is most pleasing in the herbaceous border. 
Shade is not necessary if planted in good, deep, rich loam. We are 
sometimes disappointed when we do not know the peculiarities of 
this plant, because it often peeps through the soil after many things 
flower and go to rest. Clumps of it persist in the same place for 
many years. 

Propagation. It is easily raised from seeds. 

SPIRi^A (Meadow Sweet. Goat's Beard). There are sev- 
eral very handsome herbaceous plants in this genus; all of them are 
of easy cultivation. S. aruncus, which may sometimes be found in 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 217 

botanies as Aruncus, is a variable species; the plant found in the 
Eastern States seems much more dwarf than the one commonly 
cultivated in European gardens. To grow this plant to best ad- 
vantage it should be given an isolated position. It usually attains 
a height of from 3 to 6 feet, according to variety. S. astilhoides is 
often listed as Astilbe, and is dwarf er than the above named ; flowers 
white, borne in dense panicles. S. filipendiila is a valuable rock- 
work plant, the finely cut leaves remaining green all the year round. 
The flowers, especially those of the double variety, are showy. S. 
palmata is without question one of the handsomest flowered herba- 
ceous plants in cultivation, but unfortunately other worthless kinds 
are often sold for it. The flowers are bright crimson, in large panicles ; 
the leaves are palmately five- to seven-lobed. S. ulmaria (Queen of 
the Meadow) has creamy white, very fragrant flowers. S. filipen- 
diila and S. ulmaria are also listed sometimes under Filipendula. 
The plant grows from 2 to 4 feet high, and, like all of the others, it 
dehghts in damp soil, with partial shade during midday. 
Propagation. They are all best increased by division. 

STACHYS (Hedge Nettle). S. lanata is a valuable plant for 
hot, dry situations and for planting under trees. The flowers may 
be cut off as they make their appearance, as it is the foliage which is 
the most ornamental. The leaves are covered with a wood-like sub- 
stance, imparting a whitish appearance to the plant. When wild 
it is often found in moist places. 

Propagation. Increased by division at almost any time in 
Spring. 

STATICE (Sea Lavender). Several species do well here as 
border plants. They need sandy soil with a little peat or leaf soil 
added. S. elala, S. exwiia, S. iatarica angustifolia and S. latijolia 
are all good kinds. The flowers are often scarious and may be 
treated as Everlastings. The plants are easy to grow, remaining 
for some years when well established, rooting deep. 

Propagation. They are raised from seeds. 

STOKESIA (Stokes* Aster). S. cyanea is said to be found in 
a wild state only in South Carolina and Georgia. Fortunately, this 
splendid composite is not difficult to cultivate and produces seed 
in abundance. This comparatively rare plant will evidently not 
stand coddling; it seems to like ordinary field conditions. We ought 
to have more of this charming native in our gardens, as it is one of 
the really handsome things. 



2iS PLANT CULTURE 

TANACETUM. There is little in the subject T. vulgar e (Tansy) 
to recommend it, beyond its habit of keeping green and fresh-looking 
during the Summer. It is a favorite cottage garden plant. The 
flowers and foliage are very fragrant. The variety T. v. crispiim 
with curled leaves is rather ornamental. It will thrive in almost all 
soils and situations that are not too wet. 

Propagation. Increased by division or by seeds. 

THYMUS (Thyme). T. Chamccdrys, I. lanuginosus and T, 
Serpylliim are well suited for growing in dry and exposed parts of 
the rockery. They are low-growing and wide-spreading plants, 
with small leaves and flowers. T. s. vulgaris is the Lemon Thyme, 
a highly fragrant and ornamental plant, growing from 8 inches to 
I foot high. They are adapted to a variety of uses on account of 
their ability to persist in dry places. Some of them are especially 
adapted to rockwork. 

Propagation. Easily propagated by means of division. T, 
vulgaris is often renewed by seedlings. Also well colored pieces of 
the plant are rooted in the Fall. 

TIARELLA (False Mitrewort). T. cordifolia (Foam Flower) 
is a native species for shady spots in the front part of the herba- 
ceous border, or on the rockery. It is a lover of cool, shaded places 
and of rich, moist soils. It is usually easy to manage. They are 
particularly attractive in the Autumn on account of their brilliant 
leaf-coloring. 

Propagation. By means of runners thrown out after flower- 
ing, or by division. 

TRADESCANTIA (Spiderwort). T. virginiana is found with 
blue and also pure white flowers. It is an extremely variable plant. 
This species and its varieties are useful for herbaceous borders. 
They do well in damp soil. Although commonly wild in many of 
our states, they are highly prized in Europe for planting in herba- 
ceous collections. 

Propagation. By division, seeds or cuttings. 

VERBASCUM (Mullein). V. olympicum is one of the hand- 
somest of a large number of species. It grows from 4 to 6 feet high. 
Although a perennial, it is best treated as a biennial. It is a good 
plant for the back part of a sunny border. They are of easy culti- 
vation being adapted to any soil except a cold, wet one. 

Propagation. By division or cuttings. Seeds are also used, 
but they seldom come true, as the Verbascum hybridizes very freely. 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 219 

VERONICA (Speedwell). A large genus, including a number 
of shrubby species, principally from New Zealand. There are only 
a few herbaceous species which are worthy of a place in the garden, 
as the majority are of a weedy appearance and last only a very short 
time in bloom. V. geniianoides attains a height of 1 2 inches when 
in bloom. There is a handsome variegated form, the flowers of 
which should be removed, as this tends to induce growth at the 
base. V. incana has whitish foliage and deep blue flowers; it is best 
raised from seeds. V. amethystina is one of the best of the tall 
herbaceous kinds, growing about 18 inches high. V. taurica, V. 
Teucrium, V. prostrata and F. satureicBJolia are first-class rockery 
plants. V. longifolia var. suhsessilis is a valuable sort for the 
border. 

Propagation. By seeds or by dividing early in the season, 

VINCA (Periwinkle). V. herhacea loses its foHage in the Fall. 
In April it makes short flowering growths, followed later by long, 
vine-like shoots, which take root at the extremities and form new 
plants. It thrives well in full sun. V. minor, the commonest kind, 
has blue flowers, also double blue, double purple, single white and 
variegated-leaved forms. It is much used in planting among shrub- 
bery and for covering shady spots under trees. It will thrive in 
almost any position, and takes possession of the ground to the ex- 
clusion of most other herbaceous perennials. (For other Vincas 
see p. 292.) 

Propagation. By division or by cuttings. 

VIOLA. Pansies, (see p. 232,) Tufted Pansies and Violets are 
all members of the genus Viola, the use of the generic name for any 
one section of the genus has generally been discarded. The tufted 
Pansies or bedding Violas are hybrids from V. cornuta, V. lutea and 
V. tricolor. They spread at the root much more than the ordinary 
Pansies do, making a great mass of flowers, especially in cool 
climates, for the greater part of the Summer. Because Pansies 
have become so popular in this country the tufted Pansy would 
have a struggle for existence in the estimation of the ordinary flower 
lover. Although in the tufted Pansies there is a greater diversity 
of color, more graceful flowers, and the plants are very floriferous, 
the flowers are much smaller than in the ordinary Pansy, and it is a 
question if they would become popular. V. hederacea {Erpetion 
renijorme), the Australian Violet, isa very dwarf plant, covering the 
ground rapidly by means of runners, which are thrown out in great 
profusion. It blooms all Summer if given a shaded position on the 



220 



PLANT CULTURE 




Veronica spicata rosea 



HARDY PERENNIAL PLANTS 221 

rockery. The flowers are small, blue and white ; very showy. It will 
thrive in any kind of soil if kept slightly moist during dry weather. 
In the latitude of Washington, D. C, it is perfectly hardy. 

Among the hardy Violas, V. papilionacea {ciicullata) is the species 
most frequently grown in gardens. It often becomes a troublesome 
weed and keeps on producing apetalous flowers long after the long- 
stemmed showy blooms are gone, and from the short-stalked apetal- 
ous flowers large capsules of seed follow in almost every instance. 
V. pedata and its forms are among the earliest of our native species 
to bloom. V. blmida has pure white flowers, growing in dense tufts; 
this species delights in sandy soil. V. puhescens is the common yel- 
low sort with leafy stems, and V. rotundifolia has naked flower stems. 

Propagation. The various sorts may be increased by seed 
or division. 




CHAPTER VIII 

Annuals 



Annuals are one-year plants. The seed is sown, the plants 
bloom, produce seed and die the same year. Many of our prettiest 
garden flowers are annuals. They are inexpensive, but give a 
wealth of exquisite bloom, quickly fill in spaces between other 
plants, are admirable for the rented house garden, or Summer occu- 
pied house and adapt themselves to a great range of soils and 
climates. 

Time to Sow. Most annuals, except, perhaps. Amaranth, 
China Asters, BrowalHa, Torenia, Gourds and Butterfly Flower, 
may be sown in the open when the soil is in good working 
condition and warmed a bit. Many, however, including those just 
named are best when first started in the house window a little earlier 
than they can be sown out of doors. They are sown in shallow 
boxes or in flower pots. By keeping the soil warm and moist, they 
will readily germinate. The little plants, when up, must have a 
place in some window, close to the glass. Later in the Spring such 
plant boxes can be taken outside, and in a sheltered, warm place 
the plants will become strong and sturdy and soon of the right 
size for planting out. 

Some of the fastest growing annuals need not be started until 
May. Of these. Zinnias, Marigolds, Stocks and Scabiosas are the 
best. Well known varieties, needing an early start and a careful 
removal from the seed-bed, or out of boxes into the garden border 
are: Phlox Drunwiondi, Chinese Pink, Petunia, China Aster, 
BrowaUia, Lobelia, Monkey Flower, Ageratiim, Bachelor's But- 
ton, Ricinus (Castor-Oil Bean) and Mirahilis (Four o'Clock), Sweet 
Alyssum. Most of these should not be planted in the open before 
the middle of May, while a few, such as Phlox Drmnmondi, China 
Asters, Petunias and Chinese Pinks, may safely be planted out 
latter part of April, if they are not raised in too warm a place and 
are hardened off or weaned to the outer air. 

Sowing the Seed. Most annuals especially Petunia, Orna- 
mental Tobacco (Nicotiana), Portulaca, Salpiglossis and Poppy 

222 



ANNUALS 223 

are small-seeded; these are sown on the surface of the bed, then 
gently pressed into the loose soil and only slightly covered by again 
leveling the surface. Sunflowers, Sweet Peas, Morning Glory, 
Zinnia and Nasturtium must be planted somewhat deeper; Sweet 
Peas 2 or 3 inches deep. All the various places where seeds have 
been sown should be accurately marked in some way by sticks or 
labels, so that the tiny plants, when they appear above ground, 
may be easily found and distinguished, and not be mistaken for 
weeds, for it is an important procedure, the keeping down of weeds 
from their very start. Many annuals are better sown in a coldframe 
or seed-bed and transplanted to their permanent quarters later; 
however, the following should be sown where they are to bloom: 
Poppies, Mignonette, Alyssum, Sweet Peas, Candytuft, Larkspur, 
Sunflower, Portulaca, Morning Glory and Centaurea. The border 
or bed should be well dug, liberally enriched with good old manure, 
and neatly finished off by giving it the desired form and an even 
surface. After the thorough preparation of the bed, the spaces 
where one or the other of such varieties is believed to prove most 
effective when in bloom, are marked or staked off, considering well 
the habit, color and height of the plants when at their best. 

Transplanting. In planting out, care is necessary. The work 
is best done in the evening or on a cloudy day. In very dry weather 
the plants should be watered right after being set out. Most va- 
rieties may be handled with safety at any time, if the plants have 
not been growing too crowded in the boxes or seed-bed. In such a 
case it is a good plan to thin out or transplant to distances of an 
inch or more into other boxes or frames when still very small. Such 
plants, if taken out with care, a ball of soil adhering to their roots, 
will not mind a transplanting into the garden later. Most an- 
nuals will benefit by having the top removed when 4 inches tall; 
they then become branchy, symmetrical and produce more bloom. 

AGERATUM (Floss Flower). A. Hoiistonianum takes its 
place as one of the finest blue border and porch box plants. It is very 
tender, although it does not require much heat during the Winter. 
For continuous bloom keep the seed from forming. 

Propagation. Lift old plants and keep in a greenhouse; they 
will give an abundance of growths for cuttings during the months 
of February and March. 

ALYSSUM (Sweet Alyssum). This plant is one of the last 
to succumb to cold weather. In the city of Washington it is fre- 



224 PLANT CULTURE 

quently in bloom up to the middle of December. It is used for 
window boxes, vases and baskets. 

Propagation. A few plants may be lifted, cut back and planted 
in the front part of a Rose or Carnation bench, where they will 
furnish abundant material for cuttings in the Spring. It is also 
raised from seeds which for a succession of bloom should be sown 
several times during the season. 

AMARANTHUS (Amaranth). The value of the Amaranthus 
lies in the highly-colored foliage, no other class of plants surpassing 
them in this respect. In the hottest parts of the country they do 
not last long after attaining their full size, and may be successfully 
used among Canna plants, which have been set out in a semi- 
dormant state. The common sorts are: A. caiidatus, Love-Lies- 
Bleeding, and A. hypochondriacus, the Prince's Feather; the former 
has flower stems resembHng red cord, the latter has highly- 
colored leaves as well as a showy flower head. 

Propagation. Amaranthus will germinate out of doors and 
make fair-sized plants, but to have them at their best the seed 
should be sown in the beginning of March, in a warm house, and near 
the glass, as the seedHngs get very weak unless given all the light 
possible. As soon as large enough they are pricked off into boxes, 
and, when they reach the proper size, potted singly into 3-inch 
pots, planting them out from this size. , 

ARCTOTIS (African Daisy). The A. grandis is a most at- 
tractive daisy- like flower with petals white abDve and bluish be- 
neath; the centers are steel-blue. It makes a rather good cut flower. 

BRACK YCOME (Swan River Daisy) . A charming little blue 
Daisy used for edging borders of annuals. The species most grown, 

B. iberidifolia, often bears blue, pinkish or white flowers a half inch 
in diameter. 

Propagation. For best results the seeds are started in boxes 
in March. 

BROWALLIA (Amethyst). B. elata is a blue-flowered annual 
species and may be sown where it is to bloom. In this locality the 
numerous varieties are hardy annuals. B. speciosa may either be 
raised from cuttings or seeds. When grown cool both are good 
Winter blooming plants for the conservatory. 

CALENDULA (Pot Marigold). An old favorite of which 
there are now excellent golden yellow and lemon-colored flowers. 

C. officinalis is grown in the greenhouse and garden because of its 



ANNUALS 225 

prolific production of long-stemmed flowers. It is of the easiest 
culture. 

Propagation. Seed may be sown in open ground in early 
Spring or in greenhouse at any season. 

CELOSIA (Cockscomb). There are a number of beautiful 
varieties of Cockscomb, C. cristata, and of the plumy and feathery 
C. argentea. The texture of the flower and the colors appear most 
silvery. They make attractive pot plants. 

Propagation. The seeds should be sown in the early Spring 
for Summer use. The plants are moisture-loving. 

CHINA ASTER (Callistephus hortensis). The China Aster 
is the best cut flower annual and the modern types have long stems, 
large flowers of beautiful colors; together with these qualities they 
last the longest of any annual used commercially. The principal 
points of the culture are summarized thus: Sow seeds in flats early 
and never let them become root-bound nor checked in any way, else 
they bloom before they attain their proper growth and perfection. 
Good seed is an important factor toward superior flowers. 

CLARKIA. The Clarkias, especially C. elegans and C. pulchella, 
are most interesting annuals, bearing white, lilac or pink flowers. 
They do nicely in partial shade in a light soil. 

CLEOME (Giant Spider Plant). C. spinosa is a tall-growing 
annual much used for herbaceous borders and for growing among 
shrubbery. It has a peculiar appearance due to the long stamens 
and seed vessels. The flowers are pink and so arranged as to give a 
light, airy appearance. If the seed vessels are removed as they 
appear the plants will last much longer in flower. 

Propagation. It is always propagated from seeds which are 
sown indoors early in the season. 

COSMOS. To have the plants complete their growth early 
the seed of C. hipinnatus should be sown indoors, or on a hotbed 
by the middle of March. Give the seedlings enough light to avoid 
weak growth. Plant out in rather sandy soil, and not too heavily 
manured. C. sidphureiis has yellow flowers; late blooming plants of 
it may be lifted and put in large pots, or planted out in a bench 
where there is abundant headroom. When grown on stiff soil the 
plants lift easily. Some of the more robust shoots may be removed, 
owing to the loss of some of the roots in removing. In this way 
they will give a large quantity of bloom till frost. 



226 



PLANT CULTURE 




ANNUALS 227 

Supports for the plants: We frequently see a very promising 
crop of Cosmos laid flat on the ground by a moderate wind storm, 
which not only breaks half, or more, of the branches, but the flowers 
on those which are left are at least a week later than usual in mak- 
ing their appearance and have crooked stems in the bargain. 

COTYLEDON (Echeveria. Hen and Chickens). These are 
not annuals but are here described because they are frequently 
used for carpet bedding. Some of the best for this purpose are: 
C. atro purpurea, C. calif ornica, C. clavifolia, C. fascicular is, C. gibbi- 
flora var. mefallica, C. secunda var. glauca, C. imbricata, C. Pachy- 
phylum, C. mirabilis, C. globosa var. extensa, and C. eximia. 

Propagation. The narrow-leaved kinds are raised in quantity 
from leaves; others from seed, offsets and from cuttings. Novem- 
ber and December are the best months for propagation. Pull the 
leaves from the plants, taking care during the operation that the 
bud in the axil of the leaf is preserved. Make a depression, say 
2 inches deep and 4 or 5 inches wide, across the sand bed of a warm 
house; lay two rows of leaves in this with their bases touching; 
keep dry until the little growths start. When large enough they 
should be pricked off close together in boxes. Old plants should be 
lifted in Autumn and placed as thickly as they will go in boxes, 
without adding much soil and keeping them without water in a 
cool house. 

DIMORPHOTHECA (African Golden Daisy. Cape Mari- 
gold). D. aurantiaca is an extremely showy Daisy from the Cape 
of Good Hope, South Africa. Although, perennial, it is treated 
as an annual. It suits our climatic conditions perfectly. The 
bushy plants grow from 12 to 15 inches high; the flowers, which 
are 23^ inches in diameter, being a rich orange gold. Its strikingly 
brilliant coloring is enhanced by the black disc. They bloom the 
greater part of the Summer and Fall. D. a. Iiybrida is of similar 
habit to the parent. It varies in color from the purest white 
through the various shades of yellow and orange to rich salmon 
shades. 

Propagation. By seeds. Can be sown in Fall and wintered 
in greenhouse. 

ESCHSCHOLTZIA (California Poppy). E. calif ornica some- 
times survives the Winters in Washington. It will do this even 
farther north if the plants get a httle protection, by spreading a 
few tree leaves over the plants. However, the seed is cheap and in 
the North this plant is used as an annual. The Burbank varieties, 



228 PLANT CULTURE 

which include variations in color, are welcome additions to the older 
kinds. There are several shades of yellow, pink, red and purple, 
also double-flowered forms, on the market. Home-saved seeds 
should be taken from the heads with the largest flowers. 

Propagation. As they are not easily transplanted the seeds 
should either be germinated in small pots or sown where the plants 
are to bloom. 

GAZANIA. G. rigens is a decumbent composite plant from 
South Africa, of a somewhat succulent growth, and succeeding well 
in partially shaded positions. In the Northern States the Gazanias 
thrive in full sun. The flowers are large, deep orange. 

Propagation. Owing to the succulent character of the plants 
the cuttings are liable to decay when placed in wet sand. Put them 
in boxes, using sandy loam. Make the soil quite firm; give one good 
watering, then put in the cuttings and keep in a cold but close frame 
until rooted. This may be done about the end of September; on 
the approach of severe weather bring the boxes into a cool green- 
liouse and pot off in early Spring. 

GODETIA. The Godetias are attractive because of their 
satiny flowers. G. amcena is taller than the others, and bears pink, 
lilac and deep red flowers. G. grandiflora only grows from 6 to 13 
inches tall and has attractively blotched flowers larger than the 
former species. 

Propagation. Seeds are sown in the Spring, although they 
sometimes self-sow in warm climates. 

HELICHRYSUM (Everlasting). The Helichrysums are the 
largest-flowered Everlastings. //. hracteatinn is a bold sort grown 
lately by florists for Winter decoration. The flowers are clear 
yellow, crimson, scarlet and blood-red. Double sorts are catalogued 
as H. monstrosiim. It is an annual. 

Propagation. Sow seeds indoors or in the open ground early 
in the Spring. 

HUNNEMANNIA (Mexican Tulip Poppy). H. fumaricB- 
Jolia, for late Summer and Fall cutting, beats all other members 
of the Poppy family. The flowers resemble those of some of the 
Eschscholtzias, to which genus it is closely allied; but there is much 
more substance to the flowers of the Hunnemannia and also to the 
flower stems. They can be cut immediately after opening and kept 
in excellent condition for several days. It thrives well in sandy 
soil, and needs but httle attention in the way of watering after 



ANNUALS 229 

planting out. It sometimes stands the Winters in the District of 
Columbia, but oftener it gets killed outright, and is, therefore, 
treated as an annual. 

Propagation. Seeds of the earliest flowers will have ripened 
by the end of September. They should be gathered and laid away 
in a cool, dry place for sowing in early Spring, taking care not to 
burst the seed vessels. The only difficulty attending the cultivation 
of this Poppy is in the seedling stage. The young plants are difficult 
to transfer from the seed pan to small pots, but this can be avoided 
if the seeds are sown in small pots, with the soil firmly pressed be- 
fore sowing and shifted on as the plants require it. 

KOCHIA (Summer Cypress). K. trichophylla is an annual 
plant which has jumped into popularity suddenly, having only been 
grown for ten or twelve years. It does not mix well with other 
things. It is often used as a temporary border or hedge plant. 
The growing plants develop a surprisingly large number of branches 
in a comparatively short time after germination, and some plants 
perfect enough seed which if they all grew would cover half an acre 
of ground. The plants turn to a bad purplish red in Autumn. 

LINUM (Flax). L. grandiflorum has several scarlet and crim- 
son varieties which do well from seeds. L. perenne is quite hardy 
and well worth growing in rock gardens or in the border; there are 
two colors, white and blue. 

Propagation. Both are raised from seeds and by division. 

LOBELIA. L. Erinus is a very popular bedding plant in 
Europe, but short-lived here, owing principally to the high tem- 
perature during mid-Summer. 

Propagation. A few old plants kept on a bench along with 
such things as HeHotrope and Ageratum will give fine cuttings, 
which are rooted beginning of March and transferred to a hotbed, 
to make growth. The plants when grown from seed are not uniform 
in color or habit of growth. 

MATTHIOLA (Stocks). The Ten- Weeks' Stock, M. incana, 
is a comparatively easy plant to manage. The varieties are nu- 
merous and there are strains obtainable with surprisingly few 
singles among a batch of plants. 

Propagation and Culture. It is raised from seed at intervals 
from June to November. The seedlings should be put in small pots 
when of sufficient size and repotted into larger ones before planting 
in beds. Clean pots should be used, as the roots are then less liable 



230 



PLANT CULTURE 




Single Petunias. — See page 233 



ANNUALS 231 

to injury when the ball is removed. Twelve inches apart is a suffi- 
cient distance to plant. They will stand more neglect than most 
other plants. A sharp lookout should be kept for insects on the 
foHage. The soil should be rich and about 6 inches deep. They 
are at their best in a cool house with full exposure to the sun. 

MESEMBR YANTHEMUM (Fig Marigold) . M. crystallinum 
is the Ice Plant, and has gHstening pustules upon its leaves resem- 
bling ice; besides this the plants bear small white or blush flowers. 
M. pomeridianmn and M. pyropeum are attractive flowering annuals. 
The pretty little variegated Ice Plant, known under the name of 
M. cordifolium variegatum, has a habit of damping off in the propa- 
gating bed when treated like the majority of bedding plants. A 
way to circumvent this is to prepare shallow boxes of sand and leaf 
soil. Give one good watering previous to putting in the cutting. 
Let the boxes stand for a few hours, put in the cuttings quite close 
together and stand them on a bench over the heating pipes. Give 
no more water till rooted; that is, if the soil does not become too 
dry; in this case the cuttings should not be watered with a sprinkler. 
This variety is one of the prettiest of dwarf bedding plants, and 
should be more commonly grown. 

Propagation. The annual kinds should be sown indoors be- 
ginning of March. Cuttings of the perennial kinds should be rooted 
from cuttings in Autumn. 

MIRABILIS (Marvel of Peru, or Four-o'Clock). M. 

Jalapa has tuberous roots, and in Winter may be stored in the 
same way as the roots of the Dahha, or raised annually from seeds 
sown indoors. The flowers are very showy, of various colors, prin- 
cipally yellow, crimson, red and white. 

NICOTIANA (Ornamental Tobacco). The Nicotianas are 
grown for their attractive and fragrant flowers. N. alata (affinis) 
and N. Sanderce are popular species, with pink or white salver-form 
flowers. 

Propagation. The seed is very fine and is best sown indoors 
early in the Spring. Cover the pots with glass, but do not cover the 
"Seeds with soil. 

NIEREMBERGIA (Cup Flower). N. frutescens, a blue sort, 
and N. gracilis, a white flowered species, are principally used in 
large vases, but they make exceedingly showy plants for the rock 
garden and border. N. rivularis is useful for dry banks, but is diffi- 
cult to eradicate when it once gets a start. 



232 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. Seeds of these should be sown in September 
and plants wintered in a frame. The following Summer they will 
make much better subjects than from Spring-sown seed. 

NIGELLA (Love-in-a-Mist). The Nigella bears a most at- 
tractive blue flower surrounded by lacy leaves. N. damascena is 
the species most cultivated. 

Propagation. As soon as the weather permits seeds may be 
sown rather thinly where the plants are intended to bloom in the 
open border. 

PANSIES (Viola tricolor). For Tufted Pansies see Viola, 
page 219.) To have Pansy plants ready to put out in the Fall the 
seed should be sown about the middle of August, and even earlier, 
where the weather will permit. In the very warm weather the 
principal danger is in the damping of the seedhng plants shortly 
after they have germinated. Sow thinly and cover lightly with 
screened moss, or old manure, giving only enough water to keep the 
surface slightly moist. In the warmer parts of the country it will re- 
quire good judgment in selecting a suitable place for the seed boxes 
during germination. One can be secured by raising some shaded 
sash above them, in a place where the air is not apt to get stagnant. 
As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be 
pricked out in boxes of moderately moist soil, and for some time only 
given gentle sprinklings through a fine rose to prevent wilting. They 
are put in their Winter quarters by the beginning of October and 
given a mulching of rotted manure shortly afterward. In this way 
they can be grown in the same beds with low growing bulbous plants, 
such as Crocus, Galanthus or Scillas, these bulbs going out of flower 
just as the Pansies are coming in, securing a season of bloom from 
the time when the snow disappears until very warm weather, or, in 
Northern latitudes, all Summer long. 

In some parts the plants make sufficient progress before the ad- 
vent of cool weather, not only to bloom, but to send up numerous 
shoots from the base of the plant. This is a good opportunity to 
select cuttings of the finest forms to raise seed from. Take those cut- 
tings having a small piece of solid stem; put in sand, treating them 
as cool as possible. As soon as rooted place in boxes of light soil and 
Winter in frames, planting out as soon as weather will permit. It 
should be borne in mind that plants put out in the Fall always 
give the best results in Spring. 

Pansies to Flower in Frames. If sown early enough and 
potted off the seedlings will show the colors before planting and thus 



ANNUALS 233 

enable the grower to select those which are best for selling. These 
should be planted in a frame facing south so that they will catch all 
of the sunshine available during the Winter months. If pinched 
back frequently it will induce the plants to make bushy growth 
before freezing weather; then mulch with leaf soil or old manure, 
giving air whenever the weather will allow. They will throw up 
an amazing quantity of bloom early in the season, which will pay 
to cut with the foliage attached so that good long stems can be se- 
cured. Pansy seed should be sown in very shallow boxes. 

The plants delight in a low temperature and a soil which is open 
enough to enable the small, succulent roots to ramify freely through 
it. It is not necessary to have the soil largely of vegetable humus; 
one that answers well may be made up as follows: Screen some 
soil through a No. 8 sieve; the rough material which does not go 
through the meshes put through a No. 3 sieve. This, mixed with 
leaf soil, to one-third of its bulk, will insure a good germination. 
The idea is to keep the roots in a healthy growing state with abun- 
dance of air around the seed leaves to prevent damping off. Pansies 
do better outside during Winter than most people suppose. Planted 
early with a little mulching, and if the weather gets very severe, 
some old stable bedding thrown over them, will give all the protec- 
tion necessary. For plants for Spring sales the seed may be sown 
late and wintered in coldframes, or it may be sown early in the 
Spring; but the most satisfactory plants are obtained from early 
sowing. 

PAP AVER (Poppy). P. Rhceas is the popular Shirley Poppy 
with most dainty colors and petals the texture of silk. P. somni- 
ferum is the Opium Poppy, with large, single and double flowers; 
there are many named varieties which are giants in size and prohfic 
of bloom. 

Propagation. Sow seed very thinly; because the seed is so 
fine it is usually sown too thickly. Poppies are not readily trans- 
planted. 

PETUNIAS. Many persons call this the most reliable flower- 
ing annual. It is only advisable to sow the best strains of the 
double Petunia seed, as the majority of the seedlings will furnish 
all the single flowered plants necessary for ordinary use. The 
doubles can easily be picked out from the singles before the flower- 
ing period. They are known by their stocky appearance, the singles 
having a decidedly "annual" look shortly after the seedhng stage 
has been passed. 



234 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. In order to prevent washing of the soil after 
the seed is sown, use boxes, say 3 inches deep; put a shallow layer 
of sphagnum in the bottom, make the soil firm, give a watering suffi- 
cient to wet the soil through; then when the surface will admit of 
the operation roughen it with the ends of the fingers. Sow the seed 
thinly and smooth the surface with the end of a cigar box without 
covering with soil. A pane of glass or a piece of damp cloth placed 
over the box will prevent a too rapid evaporation of the moisture 
till the seeds have germinated. They may be sown during the 
first part of February. 

PHLOX. The annual sorts, P. Drmnmondi, of which there are 
numerous varieties, should be sown by the middle of February. 
The single whites and reds are most in demand. 

Propagation. In sowing cover the seeds with sphagnum 
rubbed through a No. 4 sieve. In a moderate temperature they will 
germinate inside of a week. After the seedlings are large enough 
they should be pricked off into boxes from which they should be 
transferred to pots later in the season. When put in pots during 
the seedling stage they are apt to throw up flowering stems and 
become hard before sufficient growth has been formed. For late 
flowering plants a batch of seed may be sown beginning of May; 
these will be of most service if white varieties are selected. 

PORTULACA (Rock Rose). In this genus we have P. 
grandiflora, a very desirable annual flowering plant, and in another 
species P. oleracea, one of the most bothersome weeds. P. grandi- 
flora is a handsome plant in several colors for the rock garden, but 
in any situation it is never out of place. 

Propagation. The seeds are very small, but the plantlets 
soon gain size. They very often spring up from self-sown seed. 
They delight in the hottest kind of weather. 

RESEDA (Mignonette). R. odorata is the common Mignonette, 
one of the most fragrant plants grown. There are a number of im- 
proved flowered varieties, but the larger ones are often not so sweet. 

Propagation and Culture. For early flowering, seed may be 
sown during the first half of August. The method of sowing the 
seed on the benches is the one there is the least difficulty with, and 
that calling for the least amount of intelligent care, as a number of 
seeds can be sown at each station where they are intended to flower, 
and the strongest plants left. This system is not always convenient, 
however. Other methods consist of sowing in pots and planting 



ANNUALS 



235 




Mignonette 



236 PLANT CULTURE 

from them, or in boxes or pans, and pricked out from these into 
small pots, shifting if necessary, and planting out when the proper 
time arrives. Mignonette seedlings, when they get beyond a cer- 
tain size, are exceedingly difficult to prick off successfully; but when 
taken as soon as they can be handled there is little danger of failure 
if ordinary precautions are taken against damping off, suffering 
from too much or too little water, or from the direct rays of the sun 
until the seedlings are established. Mignonette Hkes cool treat- 
ment, so that attempts to coddle it by giving a high, close atmos- 
phere will not produce flowers worth the cutting, if they ever reach 
the flowering stage. The soil to grow it in should be well enriched 
with cow manure, and well firmed before either sowing or planting. 
About two quarts of soot to a barrel of water makes a good liquid 
manure. For blooming out of doors sow thinly as soon as weather 
permits. 

RICINUS (Castor Bean). R. communis grows, according to 
variety, from 5 to 15 feet in height. 7?. c. zanziharensis, a green- 
leaved form, continues growing all Summer and does not even ripen 
its seeds in this locality. E. Gihsonii has blood-red foliage. 

Propagation. The seeds should be sown beginning of April 
in small pots, as they form a large mass of roots quickly after 
germinating. 

SALPIGLOSSIS. Gorgeous colors and attractive flowers pro- 
fusely borne commend S. sinuata to the garden lover. It is a 
glorified Petunia produced upright and with handsome veinings in 
the petaiage. 

Propagation. The seeds are minute and should be sown in 
boxes of well-prepared loose soil early in Spring for bedding, or in 
early Autumn for Winter blooming in greenhouse. 

SCABIOSA (Pincushion Flower). The annual Scabiosa, 
S. air purpurea, is grown widely for its charming head of beautifully 
colored flowers. It is useful for cutting because of its long stems 
and splendid keeping qualities. 

Propagation. Sow the seed in the open ground in the Springy 

SCHIZANTHdS (Butterfly Flower. Poor Man's Orchid). 

These dainty. Orchid-like flowers deserve wide culture. For the 
private conservatory and partiafly shaded spot in the border they 
are most excellent. For the florist the plants or cit flowers are read- 
ily salable. There is a wide range of color combinations all of which 
are handsome. Two species are grown, S. pinnatus and S. wise- 



ANNUALS 



237 




Ricixus COMMUNIS— Castor Oil Plant 



238 PLANT CULTURE 

tonensis. S. wisetonensis is thought to be a hybrid between S. 
pmnatus and S. Grahamii and is widely used as a pot plant because 
of its dwarf ness and attractive pyramidal form. A white variety has 
proved very popular for cutting. (See page 240.) 

Culture. The Schizanthus requires cool treatment throughout 
its whole existence. When given a temperature much over 45 de- 
grees, night, the plants grow spindly. Keep the plants growing 
vigorously and do not let them become pot-bound, for they start 
to bloom so soon as their roots become too confined. Pinch back 
the young plants to make them bushy and flowery. By constant 
shifting and pinching huge plants may be flowered for Easter in 
8-inch or lo-inch pots. They are great feeders and hke a rich, 
rather heavy soil and should be supplied with applications of liquid 
manure and plenty of water. The Schizanthus requires frequent 
syringing to keep down red spider. 

Propagation. The Schizanthus is an annual and can be easily 
raised from seed which is usually sown from September to November 
for Spring bloom. 

SWEET PEAS. Without doubt, the Sweet Pea is the most 
popular annual out of doors. Everyone grows them, but many 
times with varying success. Sweet Peas should be planted on a 
well drained soil only, or one in which the excessive rains of Spring 
will not cause water to stand around the roots and start mildew. 
They do not like excessive shade, for the plants should make a 
sturdy growth. In the shade the growth is weak and spindly and 
but few flowers are produced. Place Peas, then, in the open, giving 
them all available light and air, although a Uttle shade from midday 
suns of June and July is, of course, beneficial. Hot weather causes 
short stems on Peas and the best hay and grain weather makes an 
end of them. 

The Preparation of the Soil is one of the most important 
points in the success of Sweet Peas. They Hke the cool soil and at- 
tempt to strike down deeply. Dig a trench two or three feet deep, 
break up and turn over the subsoil. Do not use it for top soil if it 
is poor. Put in a liberal amount of stable manure and work in a 
heavy dressing of bonemeal. This preparation should be made in 
the Fall and the bed left all Winter. When working over in the 
Spring give a good, liberal coating of well decayed manure or some 
fertihzer. If the soil is deficient in Hme, dust the surface with fresh 
Hme in Fall or Winter, using it as soon as slaked. 



ANNUALS 239 

Sowing Seeds in Pots. In order to gain a month in season 
Sweet Peas may be sown in 3-inch pots in February and placed in 
a coldframe. But they are generally sown a month before wanted 
for outdoor planting and a smaller pot is used. Four seeds are sown 
in each pot. The frame used should be thoroughly cleaned and 
dusted with soot or Hme. They can stand quite a lot of cold, but 
do not have them wet at the same time. Transplant outdoors when 
possible; this is usually about mid- April. Normally, the seed should 
be sown in open ground as early as March. As soon as the soil is 
warm enough the seeds will germinate. 

Fall Sowing. For the Autumn sowing of Sweet Peas a piece 
of soil should be selected which will warm quickly in the Spring. 
Prepare it deeply, 2 to 3 feet, but use no manure. Make 
a trench 2 inches deep and sow the seed thickly and cover with 
loose soil. When the seedlings have germinated and freezing weather 
. has begun, cover with 4 inches of coarse litter or straw, which must 
be removed in the early Spring after heavy frosts are past. The seed 
should be sown so that the shoots are just at surface of the soil 
when Winter freezes set in, say, late in October or early in November, 
according to latitude. 

Summer Treatment. Give frequent cultivation and when 
the plants are nicely budded work bonemeal into the soil along the 
rows. If conditions are very hot and dry give the plants frequent 
syringings, which will keep down the red spider, and never allow 
aphis half a chance. Keep the plants free from green fly. 

Staking. Many different methods awe advised for training the 
vines. Perhaps no method is so successful as using brush or branch- 
lets. Stretching string from pole to pole is an easy way. Such cord 
can be easily removed when the Peas are through blooming. Chicken 
wire is rather useful, but has two objections: it must be cleaned 
each year, and it is thought to become heated a little too much, 
causing the Pea vines to dry prematurely. 

TAGETES (Marigold). Three species are very common an- 
nuals with a pungent odor and brilliant golden yellow, lemon and 
maroon flowers. T. erecta, the African Marigold, is taller than 
T. patula, the French Marigold and the five-leaved and small- 
flowered T. signata var. pumila. They are of the very simplest 
culture, but good soil increases the size of the flowers. 

Propagation. Seeds may be sown very early in the Spring. 



240 



PLANT CULTURE 




ScHiZANTHUS — See page 236 



ANNUALS 241 

TORENIA (Wishbone Flower). T. Fournieri is none too 
common yet as a half-hardy annual. Although it will germinate 
outside it takes too long a time in blooming. Owing to the color 
of the flowers (different shades of violet) it is desirable, as bedding 
plants of that color are not plentiful. T. asiatica and T. flava 
{Baillonii) are well suited for basket or vase work, as they are of a 
procumbent habit. T. Fournieri is of erect growth. 

Propagation. Sow indoors middle of March and allow the 
seedlings to gain a considerable headway before potting. 

TROPi^OLUM (Nasturtium). T. majus and dwarf forms 
and I\ Lohbianum are well known and useful as climbers, or for 
planting in beds. All of them are quite tender, and should be put 
out rather late. With the exception of the double flowered forms 
which are perpetuated by cuttings, those varieties commonly 
grown are raised annually from seeds. The seed must not be sown 
too early, because they make rapid progress, and are apt to produce 
spindling growth in small pots. 

VERBENA. The varieties of V . hyhrida used to be kept true 
to name, the plants lifted in the Fall and cuttings taken in early 
Spring. Seeds can now be depended upon to furnish the finest flow- 
ering plants. V . venosa, an herbaceous species, with heads of purple 
flowers, is hardy in the Middle States. V. erinoides is a small- 
flowering sort of trailing habit useful for a hanging basket. 

Propagation. Seed should be sown in February and the 
seedlings potted as soon as large enough. Pinching should be done 
early to make the plants branch and have them in bloom by plant- 
ing-out time. V . venosa is rather bulbous rooted and ma}^ be 
divided in the early part of April. 

ZINNIA (Youth and Old Age). The Zinnias are some of the 
most vigorous of all annuals; they are rather coarse, but the colors 
are handsome. Z. elegans, vvdth its attractive, large flowering and 
crested forms, is very popular. Z. liaageana is a dwarf species of 
use for edging beds of the other sorts; the flowers of this species 
are shades of orange. 

Propagation. Sow seed about the end of March and prick off 
into boxes of rather rich soil. Harden them off in a frame before 
planting out. 



CHAPTER IX 

Bulbous Plants 



The term bulbous plants is generally applied indiscriminately 
to plants having thickened subterranean stems, such as Crocus and 
Gladiolus, including true bulbs, such as those of Lilium, Hyacinthus 
and Allium. A true bulb is simply a resting bud composed of leaf 
scales, as in Lilium, or partly formed by the bases of the leaves of 
the previous season's growth, as in the Hyacinthus and Onion. A 
corm differs from a bulb in having the interior part solid; examples, 
Crocus and Gladiolus. A tuber is a swollen underground stem pro- 
vided with latent buds, as in the Potato. The thickened tuber-like 
roots of the Dahlia are simply reservoirs of nutriment, and are 
known as tubercles or tuberous roots. Terrestrial Orchids supply 
numerous other examples. 

Outdoor Bulbs. Hyacinth and Tulip bulbs flowered out of 
doors may be made to last more than one season if the bulbs are 
given a little care. By the end of May, when the bulbs have to be 
lifted to make room for Summer plants, the foliage will indicate 
maturity by turning yellow. After lifting, the bulbs should not be 
allowed to lie around with the old leaves rotting over them. Spread 
them out on boards in an airy shed, so that they may have a chance 
to get plump and dry; after which they should be cleaned, stored 
and when the time arrives replanted for outdoor ornamentation. 
Low-growing hardy Spring bulbs, such as Galanthus (Snowdrop), 
Crocus, Scilla prcscox, TecophilcBa cyanocrocus, Triteleia uniflora, 
Puschkinia and Chionodoxa, should be planted as soon as they are 
procured from the dealers. If put in late they bloom late and 
their foHage does not get time to ripen before the advent of real 
warm weather, and the bulb for the following season is next to use- 
less. None of the latter is much used by florists for pot culture. In 
planting out they should, if possible, be given permanent positions. 
Sometimes Fall and Winter weather is favorable to premature 
growth of the tops, and because of this they should be protected 
from rapid thawing and freezing by a covering of an inch or two 
of half-decayed leaves or manure put on after freezing weather 
arrives. 

242 



BULBOUS PLANTS 243 

Forcing Bulbs. Such bulbs as Tulips, Hyacinths (Roman) 
and Narcissus, are put in shallow boxes for forcing. The bulbs are 
inserted quite close together, if of the poorer grades; but if they are 
the largest sizes a little more room should be allowed for the develop- 
ment of the offsets. The soil used is generally old material from 
benches in which Roses or Carnations have been growing. In pre- 
paring bulbs for forcing the principal point to be borne in mind is 
that they must make roots before being put in heat. A place should 
be set apart for the boxes, where they may be covered with about 
8 inches of sifted ashes. On the approach of freezing weather the 
ashes may be kept in a condition so that the boxes may be removed 
when wanted, by covering with rough stable litter; or, when grown 
in large quantities, a bulb house should be provided. In this struc- 
ture light should be excluded and the roof thick enough to keep out 
frost. In a well-regulated house the bulbs remain in fine condition. 
They may be kept almost dormant for several weeks and be forced 
into bloom in less time than those from the open ground. Paper 
White Narcissus and Roman Hyacinths may easily be had in 
bloom in November, and Due Van Thol Tulips by Christmas; but 
to insure these results early rooting must be looked after. 

ACHIMENES. Greenhouse bulbous plants, much like Glox- 
inias. Grown for flower in Spring and early Summer. 

Culture. Very easy. The usual method of cultivation is to 
start the rhizomes from the end of February till the end of April 
to give a succession of bloom. When the plants have made two 
inches of growth they are placed one by one in a wide, shallow pan 
about two inches apart each way, each growth being staked before 
plants show bloom. This method means a great amount of labor. 
It seems preferable to start the rhizomes in their last season's flower- 
ing pans; after making a little headway divide into three or more 
equal parts and put into their flowering pans without supports. The 
specimens are not so symmetrical as those which are staked, but 
they give a satisfactory quantity of bloom and are most useful for 
the conservatory during the Summer months. For growing in sus- 
pended baskets in the greenhouse the older kinds are well suited. 
Use wire baskets, and with started plants build them in from the 
bottom upward so that the sides will be clothed with them. The 
Achimenes do not need a very warm place for storage. During 
their resting season cHp off the stems to within an inch or two of the 
pot instead of wrenching them out, as the rhizomes are easily torn 
out with them. Stand the receptacles on their sides in a dry part of 
a cold house. No water will be required till Spring. 



244 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. Rhizome cuttings placed in moist, warm house 
in Summer will root readily. 

AGAPANTHUS. The African Blue Lily, or the Lily of the Nile, 
is a desirable plant for cool greenhouses, and ornamental either in 
or out of bloom. In general appearance Agapanthus wnhellatus re- 
sembles the Imantophyllum but the flowers are bright blue, a great 
number of them being produced in an umbel supported by a long, 
stout stalk. The Agapanthus is one of those plants which have the 
appearance of doing well with cramped root room, so there is a 
temptation when potting other things to leave the plants for an- 
other year; but this practice is carried on at the expense of the 
magnificent heads of flowers, which get smaller and smaller until a 
season goes by without any being produced. This species stands 
the Winters south of Washington, D. C, in sheltered positions, 
and sometimes even in Washington when protected with leaves held 
down by evergreen boughs. There are several varieties — the white 
double-flowered and the variety with variegated leaves being the 
most conspicuous. 

Culture. They flower in Summer, being kept dormant during 
Winter. Give plenty of water when blooming. They force well. 

Propagation. Old plants are capable of being divided either 
when in leaf or in the dormant stage. When growing plants are 
pulled apart to be propagated the smaller pieces should get a 
chance to produce a few roots by placing in sand previous to re- 
potting. 

AMARYLLIS. The Amaryllises vary somewhat in their proper 
methods of culture so that it is necessary to know that some are 
rightly called Amaryllis while others should be known under the 
names of Hippeastrum (see p. 263,) Crinum (see p. 253,) Nerine, 
Sprekelia, and Zephyranthes (see p. 277.) AmaryUis Belladonna 
is the true Belladonna Lily. The commonest form is pink, 
but there are purpHsh and white varieties. The Lily flowers are 
borne in clusters of eight or ten upon long stems and appear before 
the leaves. It really grows wild in the Cape of Good Hope and in 
some parts of Italy. It is nearly hardy in the northern L^jiited 
States and planted outdoors succeeds best only where it may re- 
main in the open ground throughout the year. 

Culture in Coldframes. They may be grown very nicely in 
frames. The bulbs should be planted when at rest, which is in Spring 
and early Summer, and the flowers will appear in August or early 
in September, the flower-spike preceding the leaves. After flower- 



BULBOUS PLANTS 



245 




HippEASTRUM (Amar\xlis)— See page 263 



246 PLANT CULTURE 

ing, leaf growth should be encouraged as much as possible, as upon 
this the next season's flowers will depend. Plant the bulbs in the 
frame 8 inches apart each way; the soil best suited to them is a sandy 
one, made very rich with manure that has long laid in the compost 
heap, so there is no heat or fermentation in it. Nothing further 
need be done, as the frame will not be covered until the flowering is 
over. Rapid growth immediately follows the flowering, and should 
there be an appearance of frost before the leaves die down, the sash 
should be put on, the same as over a hotbed, removing when the 
weather will permit. Upon the approach of Winter fill the frame, 
which should be about 6 inches above the soil, with leaves, put on 
the sash and let them remain undisturbed until Spring. It is a good 
plan to leave a slight covering of leaves over the bulbs until they 
flower, which will keep the soil moist and cool. It does not matter 
if all the leaves are left over the bulbs until the first of August, as 
the frame must be wholly devoted to this bulb. Once planted the 
bed should be allowed to remain undisturbed for several years. 
Pot Culture. Bulbs may also be planted in 7-inch pots, in 
which case they are treated the same as for frame culture. In the 
Spring the plants should be allowed to gradually become dry. 

AMORPHOPHALLUS (Black Calla). Useful for sub-tropi- 
cal bedding, owing to their very handsome leaves; those of A, 
Rivieri, the species commonly met with in cultivation, being be- 
tween 4 and 5 feet across. The petioles are necessarily stout and 
beautifully marbled with creamy white. The leaves are very 
much divided. In early Spring the flowers are produced before the 
leaves; they have such an offensive odor that unless seeds are 
wanted they should be cut off before developing. The large tubers 
are wintered in a manner similar to those of the fancy-leaved 
Caladiums. 

Propagation. Offsets of the parent tubers are taken at time 
of potting. Seeds may be sown. 

ANEMONE (Windfiower). The tuberous rooted species 
known as A. coronaria, A.fulgens and A. hortensis are all natives of 
Southern Europe. 

Culture. When planted permanently the soil should be open 
and well drained, and if it is apt to bake in Spring give a top dressing 
of leaf soil or stable manure thoroughly rotted. This will keep the 
surface soft and enable the growths to break through easily. The 
above species are sometimes grown in pots; they may be planted 
in September or October, kept in a coldframe and flowered in Spring. 



BULBOUS PLANTS 247 

A. coronaria and .4. fulgens are the most useful for this purpose. 
The many varieties are sold cheaply by dealers in bulbs. 

Propagation. By the division of roots in the early Spring be- 
fore growth starts, or by seeds in Fall or Spring. 

CALADIUM, FANCY LEAVED. There are several species 
and a great many forms of these gaudy foliage plants. They are 
principally used to fill the benches of the conservatory during the 
Summer months, when most of the usual greenhouse plants are oc- 
cupying their Summer quarters out of doors. They are also used 
in bedding, and if the higher colored forms are avoided, choosing 
those in which green and red predominate in the leaves, they will 
succeed well even in the full sun. A goodly quantity of bonemeal 
worked into the soil before planting will make strong and well- 
colored leaves. The small-leaved kind called C. argyrites will be 
all the more useful if not started too early, as it is most needed late 
in the year. It keeps well among sawdust in paper bags. The tu- 
bers are so small that several hundred can be put in a small bag. 
Caladium odor at um or Colocasia odorata is used much in the same 
manner for outdoor decoration in Summer as the well-known 
Dasheen or Elephant Ear, Colocasia esculenta. They are known 
from each other by C. odorata having thick, fleshy stems above 
ground and the leaves pointing upward, or at least growing with 
the leaf blade horizontal, while C. esculenta has drooping leaf 
blades, and has no stem above ground. They are both wintered 
in the same way, that is, in a dormant condition, in a warm 
place, although C. odorata can easily be kept over Winter with 
the roots of the previous Summer preserved and the foliage 
green by storing the stems thickly together in boxes, keeping on 
the youngest leaves when lifted and storing plants in a fairly 
warm house, giving water occasionally. Well furnished plants 
can be had quicker from the stems of this than from those of 
C. esculenta. 

Starting Tubers. The first lot of tubers should be started 
about the middle of February for conservatory decoration. They 
should first be gone over carefully, and any that show signs of rotting 
at the bottoms should have the decayed part cut or scraped off and 
dusted with powdered charcoal. The under part of a Caladium 
tuber, after it has reached a certain size, is more or less in a state 
of decay, but sometimes, through being kept too wet, too dry, or 
in a place which is too cold, this natural decay is hastened by rot, 
which, if not checked, will kill the tuber in a short time. The white. 



248 



PLANT CULTURE 



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Caladium "Her Majesty" 



BULBOUS PLANTS 249 

succulent roots start from the top part or neck of the tuber, near the 
base of the leaf-bud, so this part must be covered and kept in an 
evenly moist state to start them into growth. The best conditions 
under which to start growth are as follows: Take a box 3 inches 
deep, put half an inch of moss in the bottom; put in the bulbs close 
enough together so that at least half the space will be occupied, 
then cover with moss to the top of the box. Have the moss chopped 
so that the particles will fall easily from the roots previous to pot- 
ting. This operation may best be done when the roots are from i 
to 2 inches long. A good soil should consist largely of leafmold. 
As the tubers send out their roots shortly after putting in the moss 
they should be transferred to pots before the roots get too long, 
else they will be injured in the operation. Pots should not be used 
of a size larger than will hold the tubers and roots comfortably, 
without danger of being bruised. The subsequent shifts should 
have a greater quantity of loam with rotted cow manure added. 
For specimen plants do not cut up the tubers, plant them whole. 
At the end of the season, as a rule, they will have made quite as 
many easily detached tubers as if they had been cut up in the 
Spring. 

Preparations for Lifting Tubers. By the beginning of Oc- 
tober, and earlier in some localities, fancy leaved Caladiums will 
soon begin to lose their bright colors, owing to the low temperature. 
Before this occurs go over them and renew the names, using fresh 
labels. If they are without names go over them all the same, jotting 
down the colors of the leaves, and whether certain kinds should be 
used again. All this is very necessary with the Caladium as it is a 
useful bedding plant. It is difficult to decide whether it is best 
to plant them in the dormant state Hke Gladioli, or to start 
indoors before planting. The latter method is often favored, 
mainly because there was something to look at as soon as planted. 
Splendid growth is made from dormant tubers at planting time, 
and this speaks volumes in favor of this method. It certainly 
saves the time given to the starting and potting indoors. But 
again, more money can be got out of a plant, with its beautiful 
leaves, started in a 5-inch pot than can be got for a mere tuber 
that has no more beauty to is than a Potato. 

Storing the Tubers. Outdoor plants as they lose their leaves 
should be dug up and laid under the bench of a house where the sun 
won't get at them. Give water occasionally to both roots and 
foHage until the latter gradually decays. After the leaves are cut 
off and the tubers are dry^ put as many as will go into a fair-sized 



250 PLANT CULTURE 

pot, then run in dry sand and stand the pots in the warmest part 
of the house, where they will be free from drip. They should be 
kept in a temperature not lower than 60 degrees during the Winter. 
Plants in pots will soon begin to look badly unless they be kept 
in a warm, close house. To rest them, withhold water gradually, 
and when the leaves are nearly gone, remove the pots to the driest 
and warmest part of the house, placing the pots on their sides. If 
room cannot be spared the plants may be knocked out of the pots 
and stored like the outdoor collection. 

Propagation. Many of the kinds form small tubers on the 
sides of the large ones; these are easily detached and grown on. 
Again, many sorts, especially some of the finer and recently intro- 
duced varieties, do not make these small tubers, or not in large 
enough numbers to be of much service; but it will usually be found 
that the large tubers have one or more eyes generally at the sides. 
These, if taken off with a piece of the tuber attached, either before 
or after starting, will make small plants the same season. In sepa- 
rating from the parent tubers dust the cut surfaces with powdered 
charcoal, to prevent decay. If taken off before the tubers are 
started, put the pieces in warm sand to hasten the formation of roots. 
The propagation of C. odorata should be attended to during Febru- 
ary. Cut up the long stems into pieces with a dormant eye to each 
piece, dust them over with powdered charcoal to prevent decay, 
and lay them in the sun to dry for a day or so ; afterward put in moss 
not too wet, in a warm frame, where they will sprout much in the 
same manner as stove Alocasias. Pot as soon as the roots are suffi- 
cient in number. 

CANNAS. These handsome subjects mark a wonderful de- 
velopment by the plant breeder. At first the Cannas were only 
prized as foUage plants; the petals were narrow and the flower was 
very unattractive. Now we have an excellent series of wonderful 
Cannas with superbly colored gigantic flowers, all of which are of 
easy culture and great value for the garden, where they are planted 
in formal beds or mixed in the perennial border. The beginning 
was made in Europe, and from the first of the improved forms 
numerous fine varieties have been raised in America, so that now 
anyone can take a few good flowered sorts, pollinate the flowers, 
and among the resulting progeny will be found some as good, if not 
better than the parents. A new race has recently sprung up known 
as the Orchid-flowered Cannas; these have been secured by crossing 
the Crozy section with the large, yellow-flowered C. flaccida. The 



BULBOUS PLANTS 251 

flowers are very large and showy, but the direct cross between the 
two is not very suitable as a bedder, owing to the soft nature of the 
segments. There are at present indications of the orchid-flowered 
section being considerably improved in the substance of the flower 
so that in a few years they will be more largely grown. Some of 
the varieties are grown for the foliage alone; these are either slightly 
variegated or with the leaves dark red. Black Beauty, raised by 
Mr. E. M. Byrnes, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, has for 25 years 
been by far the best of this class, and likely to remain so. It should 
never be planted out in a dormant state. 

Culture. The first lot of rhizomes intended for bedding pur- 
poses should be started during the first part of February. These 
should be the finest kinds and those which it is desired to increase, 
because even the smallest pieces having one dormant point, started 
early, will make plants large enough to occupy 5-inch pots by the 
time for planting out. Leave as much of the rhizome to each point 
as possible, as it will send out new growths from the dormant buds 
between the scales. In the formation of the rhizomes scales are first 
formed entirely encircling the rhizome, which, as it reaches the light, 
gradually elongate until true leaves are formed. The main crop 
may be gone over during the first half of March. Cut up the 
rhizomes into pieces small enough, so that when the time comes for 
potting, each piece will fill a 5-inch pot. Before potting they should 
be put in material which will encourage the formation of roots, and 
the best for this purpose is sphagnum, sand and rotted cow manure 
in equal parts. When the rhizomes are potted without roots they 
always turn out unsatisfactory. Some start immediately but the 
majority remain dormant, and take up valuable space for too long 
a time. Use boxes to start the rhizomes; place a couple of inches 
of the material in the bottom, put the pieces on this and cover with 
at least i inch of the rooting medium. Water only sparingly at 
first; as the growths push up, give full exposure to the light. 

Storing. Cannas should be lifted from their Summer quarters 
just as soon as the foliage is blackened by the first frosts. Before 
this occurs they should be gone over and labeled correctly, noting 
the color, size and comparative value of seedlings. Use hanging 
labels, tying them on firmly as near the ground as possible. Cut ofif 
the flowering stem about 6 inches from the ground. If there be 
greenhouse accommodation, a position under the benches, where 
they won't get much drip, will suit them exactly. If greenhouse 
accommodation is not available they should be closely packed 



252 PLANT CULTURE 

together in boxes, using dry sand, and stored away where frost 
will not affect the rhizomes. 

Raising from Seed. The seed covering is very hard and resists 
the influence of heat and moisture for a long time under ordinary 
conditions. Germination may be hastened by soaking the seeds in 
warm water, and also by removing a very small piece of the seed 
covering with a file. In any case sow early and in a bottom heat 
of from 75 to 80 degrees. 

CHIONODOXA (Glory of the Snow). Several species are 
common, namely, C.Liicilice, light blue with white center, and C. 
sardensis, dark blue. The Chionodoxas are very closely allied to 
the Scillas and might easily be confused with them. They are 
early flowering, March or April, and are very effective when planted 
in huge clumps in the border. For a small bulb they may be planted 
quite deeply — perhaps 4 to 5 inches is not too deep. They should 
be replanted every third year, else they run out. 

CLIVIA (Imantophyllum). C. miniata and its forms are 
the finest. An indispensable plant for private collections; grows 
best in a cool greenhouse. 

Culture. Large plants need shifting only at long intervals, 
and for this reason the soil should have a good sprinkUng of crushed 
bone and charcoal. 

Propagation. Increased by division of old plants which have 
become crowded in their pots. 

CONVALLARIA (Lily of the Valley). Pips of Convallaria 
majalis used in this country for forcing purposes are obtained from 
abroad. There is, however, no reason why they should not be 
produced as good in the United States. Lily of the Valley thrives 
in some parts very luxuriantly, when grown in the shade of small 
trees with an annual top dressing of decayed leaves or old manure. 
The pips are received during the early part of November, at which 
time good roots are obtainable from, the previous year's supply, 
kept in cold storage. Or home grown material may, in time, be 
used, as then preparation could be made earlier with greater cer- 
tainty of success in early blooming. 

Lily of the Valley is a decidedly artificial looking flower when un- 
accompanied by its foliage. A stock of small pips should be put in 
the forcing house and given plenty time to develop the foliage for 
occasions when wanted. The material in which to place the pips 
may be pure sand, as no new roots are made during the forcing 
period. When taken from a temperature near the freezing point. 



BULBOUS PLANTS 253 

increase it very gradually until a bottom heat of from 80 to 85 
degrees is given for the actual work of forcing. The pips may be 
kept almost in the dark at first, gradually giving hght as they de- 
velop; but keep them shaded from the sun. In storing pips for the 
Winter keep them in a frame, with a northern exposure, so that 
rapid thawing and freezing may be prevented. There are double 
flowered and variegated leaved forms; all of them are desirable for 
half-shaded places in the open border. 

CRINUM. The tender species are not much grown indoors, 
but there are several which are useful for the hardy border. One 
which gives much satisfaction and which is perfectly 
hardy, is named C. longifolium. The flowers are tinged with 
rose. There is a white-flowered form. C. Powellii is a hybrid be- 
tween C. longifolium and C. Moorei. It thrives in Washington with 
slight protection in Winter. C. Moorei is also hardy when planted 
in warm soils and slightly protected. In large conservatories C. 
giganteum should be grown if only for the foliage. The leaves are 
several feet in length, fully 6 inches broad in adult specimens, and 
of a bright green color. The flowers are pure white and sweet 
smelling, produced at irregular intervals. 

Propagation. Nearly every flower will set seeds which are very 
large and irregular in shape. They should be sown as soon as ripe, 
as after falling to the ground a little moisture will cause them to 
germinate in a few days. Sow the seeds 2 inches apart in a seed 
pan; keep in a frame, and plant out without potting off in Spring. 

CROCUS. The species commonly grown are C. vernus and 
C. Susianus, the latter being the early, small yellow sort. The 
Crocus is as universally admired as any bulbous plant because it 
can be planted in great profusion without much expense. The va- 
rieties are so bright and cheerful that they are excellent planted 
either in lawns, in the herbaceous border or under trees. Especially 
attractive are bold clumps of one variety near evergreens when they 
are branched to the soil. Crocuses must be planted in an open 
place in order to have them flower. New bulbs are produced above 
the old ones each year and the plant becomes higher and higher 
in the soil; they should thus be transplanted every third year. 

DAHLIA. The Dahlia is a favorite in the gardens of those 
who can grow them. Near Mexico City they are growing wild upon 
the sides of the cool ravines in the partial shade. It is hot during 
the day but at night it becomes cool. Their natural habitat thus 
furnishes an index to their proper culture. 



254 PLANT CULTURE 

The classification of Dahlias approved by the American Dahlia 
Society is of interest. 

1. Cactus Dahlias 

A. True Fluted Type: Flowers fully double; floral rays 
(petals) long, narrow, incurved or twisted, with sharp, divided 
or fluted points and with revolute (rolled back) margins, 
forming, in the outer florets, a more or less perfect tube for more 
than half the length of the ray. 

Typical examples: Snowdon, T. G. Baker, Mrs. Douglas Flem- 
ing, J. H. Jackson, H. H. Thomas and Rev. T. W. Jamieson. 

B. Hybrid Cactus or Semi-Cactus Type: Flowers fully 
double; floral rays (petals) short as compared with previous type, 
broad, flat, recurved or twisted, not sharply pointed except when 
tips are divided (staghorn), margins only slightly revolute (rolled 
back), and tubes of outer florets, if any, less than half the length 
of the ray. 

Typical examples: Master Carl, Perle de Lyon, Flora, Mrs. 
J. T. Mace, Kalif and Rheinkoenig. 

2. Decorative Dahlias 

Double flowers, full to center in early season, flat rather 
than ball-shaped, with broad, flat, somewhat loosely arranged 
floral rays (petals) with broad points or rounded tips which are 
straight or decurved (turned down or back), not incurved, and with 
margins revolute (rolled back), if rolled at all. 

Includes forms like those of Souvenir de Gustave Douzon, 
Jeanne Charmet, Le Grand Manitou, Delice, Lyndhurst and 
Bertha Von Suttner, but does not include Le Colosse, Mrs. Roose- 
velt, Drecr's White, Grand Duke Alexis or similar forms, which 
fall into section B. of the baU-shaped double Dahlias. 

3. Ball-Shaped Double Dahlias 

A. Show Type: Double flowers, globular or ball-shaped 
rather than broad or flat, full to center, showing regular spiral 
arrangement of florets; floral rays more or less quilled or with 
markedly involute (rolled in) margins and rounded tips. 

(The class called Fancy Dahlias is not recognized separately in 
this classification, but is included in this sub-section A.) 

Typical examples of Show Dahlias: Arabella, Dorothy Peacock, 
Gold Medal, John Walker, Colonist and A. D. Livoni. 

B. Hybrid Show, Giant Show or Colossal Type: Flowers 
fully double, broadly hemispherical to flatly globular in form, loosely 



BULBOUS PLANTS 255 

built so spiral arrangement of florets is not immediately evident; 
floral rays (petals) broad, heavy, cupped or quilled, with rounded 
tips and involute (rolled in or forward) margins. 

Typical examples: Grand Duke Alexis, Cuban Giant, Mrs. 
koosevelt, Le Colosse, W. W. Rawson and Golden West. 

C. Pompon Type: Shape and color may be same as of A. or 
B.; but must be under 2 inches in diameter. 

Typical examples: Fairy Queen, Belle of Springfield, Darkest 
of All, Nerissa, Little Herman and Snowclad. 

4. Peony-flowered or ''Art" Dahlias 

Semi-double flowers with open center, the inner floral rays 
(petals) being usually curled or twisted, the other or outer petals 
being either flat or more or less irregular. 

Typical examples: Queen Wilhelmina, Geisha, Hampton Court, 
Mrs. W. Kerr, P. W. Janssen, and Glory of Baarn. 

5. Duplex Dahlias 

Semi-double flowers, with center always exposed on opening of 
bud, with petals in more than one row, more than 12, long and flat, 
or broad and rounded, not noticeably twisted or curled. (Many 
so-called Peony-flowered Dahlias belong here). 

Typical examples: Big Chief, Souv. de Franz Listz, Merry 
Widow, Sensation, Prairie Fire and Hortulanus Budde. 

6. Single Dahlias 

Open-centered flowers, small to very large, with eight to twelve 
floral rays (petals) more or less in one circle, margins often 
recurved (turned down or back). There are no distinctions as to 
colors. The type embraces the large Twentieth Century as well 
as the smaller English varieties. 

Typical examples: White Century, Golden Century, Scarlet 
Century, Newport Marvel (of the large-flowered forms); Polly 
Eccles, Leslie Scale, Danish Cross and Ami Barillet (of the lesser 
flowered forms). 

The Star singles and Cactus singles are omitted from the present 
classification scheme as not being sufl&ciently numerous or well 
defined yet. 

7. Collarette Dahlias 

Open-centered blossoms with not more than nine floral rays 
(petals), with one or more smaller rays, usually of a different 
color, from heart of each ray floret, making a collar about the disk. 



256 PLANT CULTURE 

Typical examples: Maurice Rivoire, Souvenir de Chabanne, 
Diadem, Orphee, Madame Poirier and Albert Maumene. 

8. Anemone-flowered Dahlias 

Flowers with one row of large floral rays (petals) lik^ 
single Dahlias, but with each disk flower producing small, tubular 
petals. 

Includes such forms as those of Graziella, Mme. Chas. Molin, 
Claude Barnard and Mme. Pierre Dupont. 

9. Other Sections 
Miniature or Pompon Cactus : Small-flowered, stellate, fine- 
petaled Cactus Dahlias represented by Tomtit, Mary, Nora, 
Minima. MiGNON OR ToM Thumb: Dwarf, bushy, single flowered 
Dahlias for edging. Typical example: Jules Closson. Bedding 
Dahlias: A taller, more upright type than the Tom Thumb. 
Typical examples: Barlow's Bedder and Midget Improved. 
Cockade or Zonal Dahlias: Single or collarette Dahhas, with 
three distinct bands of color about center. Type hardly known in 
America, but includes forms such as those of Cockade Espagnole. 

Culture and Propagation. The soil should be very rich and 
light, and if the plants are put in positions where it is inconvenient 
to water them during dry weather they should get a mulching of 
half-decayed stable bedding. Although the kinds are perpetuated 
by division, grafting and cuttings, the latter method is the one best 
suited for raising large quantities of young plants. The roots are 
brought into heat about the ist of March, covered over with some 
light soil, and encouraged to make growth by frequent syringing. 
As soon as the shoots are 3 or 4 inches long, separate from the 
parent, taking them with a heel. They can then either be put singly 
in small pots and kept close and warm until rooted, or put in an 
ordinary propagating bed with a bottom heat of 75 degrees. The 
sand need not be kept very moist, but the atmosphere should con- 
tain enough moisture to prevent wilting. As soon as weather per- 
mits the plants should be put out in a frame to harden. 

They may be planted into the open ground when the frosts are 
safely past and the soil has warmed. There is nothing gained by 
planting in a cold, water soaked soil. The larger growing sorts are 
best planted 4x4 feet and the tubers are set about 4 inches deep. 
Some support should be supplied the plants in their early stages 
of growth. Each tuber makes several growths which may be al- 
lowed to grow until several leaves have formed, after which the 



BULBOUS PLANTS 257 

strongest one or two are selected. Tie this shoot to a stake imme- 
diately and continue to support the plant as it develops. 

Storage. When the Autumn killing frosts arrive, perhaps in 
October, and the foliage is killed, take up the plants and allow them 
to dry a little in the sun. Cut off the old stems so that a stub of 
3 inches is left. Then place them in a cellar where temperature 
will surely remain above freezing, about 40 to 45 degrees Fahren- 
heit. They may best be placed with the stems down on shelves and 
covered with soil or sand. With large tubers it will be unnecessary 
to cover them; merely place them in a heap on shelf or floor, keeping 
the stems to outside. Do not let them get dried out; if they shrivel, 
sprinkle a little water over them. If kept too moist they soon 
mildew. 

ERANTHIS (Winter Aconite). Among the first plants to 
open their flowers in the hardy plant border is E. hyemalis. It 
should have a place to itself, or the space in which it is growing can 
be covered after the foliage is gone with annuals, of different va- 
rieties. 

Propagation. It is propagated readily from self-sown seeds 
and by dividing old clumps in mid-Summer. 

EREMURUS (The King's Spear). This is a very stately 
subject for the garden. Two species, E. robusius and E. himalaicus, 
and many varieties are grown. The spikes are frequently 6 to 8 feet 
tall and are covered with white, pink or yellowish flowers, which 
continue to open for nearly a month. For some reason they are 
difficult to grow. Certain of the plants rapidly multiply and bloom, 
while others die out entirely. The bulbs should be planted rather 
shallow, in a fairly rich but very well drained soil. These plants 
are native to desert spots of Western and Central Asia. The 
matter of Winter protection is important, for the plants should be 
covered with leaves and left till late in the Spring, else the young 
shoots will be injured by the cold. The roots are fleshy and spread 
out in several directions. Plant as soon as received in November. 

ERYTHRONIUM (Dog-tooth Violet. Adder's Tongue). 
These showy Spring flowers are found wild in the Eastern states. 
There are at least fifteen species, the ones most commonly cultivated 
being E. americanum, the species found abundantly in the East, 
E. grandiflorum, E. californiciwi, E. revolutum and E. Howellii. 
As Spring flowers for naturalizing they are largely used. JMost of the 
species are offered by European firms. The Western species are 
cultivated and offered for sale bv dealers in California. 



258 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. There is no necessity for propagating them 
in the East, owing to the low rates charged by dealers. They are 
among the first flowers to open in Spring. 

EUCHARIS. The Amazon Lilies have long been popular 
stove bulbous plants, their large, pure white flowers making them 
favorites wherever grown. To the florist who does a general trade 
this is a paying plant when properly grown in moderately large 
quantities. There are three species in general cultivation — E. 
grandiflora {amazonica), E. Candida and E. Sander i. The first is 
the best known of the three, and the most profitable to grow, as the 
individual flowers are larger and more of them are produced on a 
stalk. They are grown in pots, tubs, or on benches. 

Culture. Their culture seems a trifle diflicult to many, but this 
idea has arisen through trying to grow them under adverse condi- 
tions. They are plants which delight in a warm, moist atmosphere, 
shaded from strong sunshine. The temperature should never fall 
below 60 degrees, and it should only be allowed to get in the neigh- 
borhood of that figure during cold weather. The plants cannot be 
properly grown after the manner of most bulbous subjects which 
florists handle, such as Liliums, Richardias, Gladioli and Tulips; 
that is, potting them up at a certain time to have them in bloom at 
a given date. Their culture has not been brought down to such a 
fine point because their nature does not permit of it. They can be 
grown either with or without a short period of rest in the Fall 
months. It is best to keep them growing all the time, but to do this 
successfully the roots must have close attention. From the nature 
of the compost in which they grow it will become sodden if extra 
precautions are not taken in the way of providing good drainage, 
also in mixing with the soil a goodly quantity of broken charcoal 
to keep the mass porous. The principal ingredients should consist 
of loam two parts, leafmold one, a fourth to consist of rough sand 
and well rotted cow manure. The first two methods are preferred, 
as the plants can be more easily handled than when on benches. 
A good sized clump can be kept in a 10- or 12-inch pot for a good 
many years by periodical examinations of the drainage, the decom- 
posed soil removed from around the ball with the aid of the hose, 
and a mixture of loam and bonemeal dusted over it. Put back in 
the pot and give a good top dressing. Ckimps treated in this way 
have flowered three and four times in a year regularly for twelve years. 

FREESIA. The rapid improvement of this old favorite indoor 
flowering bulb has placed upon the market not only pure white forms 



BULBOUS PLANTS 259 

but beautifully colored sorts as well. F. refracta is the type and 
from this have been developed such varieties as Purity by R. 
Fischer, a pure white sort. The colored sorts, known as the Rain- 
bow strain, are rather expensive as yet for extensive planting, but 
they are worthy of wider use. Freesias which are wanted to 
bloom by the end of the year should be p.otted or boxed as soon as 
they can be procured from the dealers. Plunge the pots in ashes, 
in a frame, where strong sunshine won't keep the surface of the soil 
too warm and dry. They must not be covered over as other bulbs 
are after potting, as the leaves are thin and tender and must develop 
to a considerable extent before the flower stems make their appear- 
ance. Save the larger bulbs after flowering and they will.be as good 
as any which can be purchased. 

FRITILLARIA. F. imperialis, the Crown Imperial, is an old 
favorite not much planted at present. It is so stately that this is 
extremely strange. In the Spring, when the bulbs start into growth, 
the stem elongates very rapidly until finally it is surmounted by a 
crown of flowing bells and a tuft of leaves. They are very interesting 
as seen in the distance, but even more so when examined carefully 
close at hand. The bulb seems very susceptible to any sort of injury 
and should not be kept out of the soil for any length of time. They 
should be planted about 4 or 5 inches deep and on their sides, be- 
cause they often decay easily. The bulbs should be set on several 
inches of sand. They enjoy a rather rich soil and when once estab- 
lished grow very easily. If the flower stem is a trifle weak give a 
little staking of some sort. Single and double, orange, scarlet and 
yellow varieties can be had. One fact, before leaving the Crown 
Imperials: They are often called Skunk Lilies. The reason is 
easily guessed if one inhales the odor of the flowers or bulbs. This 
is hardly objectionable, however, if one does not get too close to 
the plants. F. meleagris, the Guinea-hen Flower, is also well-known 
and is fine for naturahzing in the grass or for a mass in the perennial 
border, as it flowers in May. 

Propagation. Seed may be sown as soon as ripe although the 
bulbs increase naturally. 

GALANTHUS (Snowdrop). The Snowdrops are better 
known in all the northern countries of Europe than in the United 
States. There is a great difference in the flowering period of the 
different species. Some of the large-flowered kinds, especially those 
from Asia Minor, such asC Elwesii, open their flowers in Washing- 
ton during the latter part of January. A pecuHarity which is rather 



26o PLANT CULTURE 

strange is that when the flowers are fully open, although zero 
weather be experienced later on, it has no bad effect on the flowers; 
they are usually prostrate during the cold spell, but they lift up their 
heads after it has passed and even bear seeds. This happens fre- 
quently before the common G. nivalis has pushed through the soil. 
We ought to see more of these harbingers of Spring, especially in 
our public parks. 

GALTONIA (Summer Hyacinth). G. candicans is a bold, 
stately, bulbous plant which is very admirably used in the back 
line of a border. The tall spikes of inverted white bells give a very 
pleasing effect, and seem to contrast most exquisitely with many of 
medium, tall growing perennials, such as Monarda and Coreopsis, 
or with annuals such as Bachelor's Buttons and Snapdragons. The 
bulbs are not strictly hardy and must be dug each Autumn and 
planted the following Spring. Placing the bulbs about 5 inches deep 
serves to give the tall stems the proper support. After blooming 
one year the bulbs frequently rest a year before blooming again. 
It is advisable to buy a new stock each year. 

Propagation. They are easily grown from seed. 

GLADIOLUS (Sword Lily). The modern Gladiolus is a regal 
flower stately enough for the finest mansion, as well as a democratic 
flower charming enough for the home garden and cottage window. 
Each year finds new uses for the Gladiolus, which now holds first 
place among the Summer blooming bulbs. First, because of the 
great range of color; secondly, because of wonderful keeping quali- 
ties, each spike keeping over a week; thirdly, because of its easy 
cultivation, primarily the same as that for Potatoes; and, fourthly, 
by the proper choice of estabhshed varieties they can be commended 
because of their cheapness. This flower is extensively utilized for 
all kinds of decorative work. Large vases or baskets of the stately 
flower spikes fill a place quite distinct from any other flower. As a 
garden subject the Gladiolus is unexcelled for furnishing a long 
season of bloom, extending from mid-July until frost, either in a bed, 
in which case the plants should be very close, or in clumps in the 
herbaceous border. 

The best soil for the Gladiolus is a medium loam. It appreciates 
good fertility, but seems sensitive to any manure in contact with 
the bulbs. Manure is good if appHed in the Autumn previous to 
planting. The best fertilizer for general use is one that would be 
called a Potato fertilizer, rich in potash and phosphoric acid, both 
chemicals being useful in the proper formation of good bulbs. Bone- 



BULBOUS PLANTS 



261 




Gladiolus 



262 PLANT CULTURE 

meal is also extensively used. Liquid manure, when the buds are 
forming, seems beneficial. 

Gladioli are not hardy, except some varieties of G.Lemoinei, and 
even these require protection in New York State. Planting should 
be deferred until all danger of frost is past. A well planned suc- 
cession in planting is advisable. The depth to plant is determined 
by the character of the soil. In the lightest soil 7 or 8 inches is not 
too deep, but in a heavy clay 4 or 5 inches would be a sufficient 
depth. There are two reasons why the corms should be planted 
as deep as the character of the soil will permit: First, the Gladiolus 
is moisture-loving, and in deep planting its roots are in the cooler 
moist soil; secondly, the soil acts as a support, no other support for 
the stems being necessary ordinarily. Commercially, the corms, 
i.e., bulbs, are usually planted in rows, often two rows, about 
6 inches apart, in the furrow. If the corms are over i inch in diam- 
eter they are scattered promiscuously. 

Upon the approach of frost the corms are dug, and the tops left 
on the corms. They are then stored in an airy place to dry thor- 
oughly. After several weeks the last year's exhausted corms and 
the old stems may be removed and the stock cleaned. The best 
storage temperature is from 40 to 45 degrees and in a rather dry 
atmosphere. If the corms become heated they dry, and this causes 
them to start prematurely. If too humid the corms rot or start 
growth. A shallow tray 3 or 4 inches deep insures the corms against 
heating. 

Propagation. By seed new varieties are obtained. There is 
also a natural increase due to the formation of new corms above the 
old ones as well as the production of small cormels, or spawn, pro- 
duced above the old corm and below the new one. The last two 
methods propagate the varieties true to name. 

GLORIOSA. The Gloriosas, especially G. superba and G. 
Plantii, are ornamental flowered liliaceous plants, very suitable for 
our hot Summers. The plants have a vine like growth and must 
be supported by sticks. They are serviceable for the embellishment 
of greenhouses during Summer. In the District of Columbia they 
do well out of doors. 

Propagation. To raise bulbs sow a few seeds in a 6-inch pot 
and allow them to remain in their seed pots for the Summer, gradu- 
ally drying off as the foliage turns yellow. Store with Gloxinias 
during the Winter. Each plant may be potted off singly the follow- 
ing Spring. 



BULBOUS PLANTS 263 

HIPPEASTRUM. Many of these are known as Amarylli. 
The flowers are scarlet, crimson and white, many varieties being 
striped and mottled. (See illustration page 245.) These plants are 
not as much grown as their merits deserve; this is partly because 
the finer kinds are somewhat expensive, especially when flowering 
bulbs are purchased. With a few good sorts to start with they may 
be increased, and even new varieties raised much more rapidly in 
America than in Europe, as our Summers are very favorable to 
their rapid growth and increase by offsets. Most of the very 
numerous hybrids now in cultivation are the progeny of H, vit- 
tatum and H. Ackerma7ini. There are two methods of culture — 
growing in pots all the year round, and growing them during Sum- 
mer planted out in the open, lifting and potting in the Fall. The 
first method is preferable for the production of the largest sized 
blooms. Their season of blooming is generally from January to May. 

About the beginning of the year the pot grown bulbs which are 
dormant should be removed from the pots and repotted in a size 
larger pot using good, rich compost; at first water only to settle the 
soil, gradually increasing the supply. Unless a trifle pot bound the 
bulbs do not bloom so well. Some bulbs will show flowers early; 
these, if wanted in bloom quickly, will be forced along with a 
minimum temperature of 60 degrees. By giving too high a tem- 
perature the foliage is weakened, and it must be borne in mind that 
the plants make their principal growth for the season after the 
flowers are past, so that too early forcing is apt to endanger the 
health of the bulb. After blooming, the pot plants should be kept 
in an open frame till the end of September, with some loose material, 
such as stable litter, between the pots to prevent too rapid evapora- 
tion of moisture; feed them frequently with liquid manure. A deep 
frame heated so as to exclude frost will be found the best place for 
the pot plants during the resting season. 

For outdoor culture by the end of May bulbs may be planted in 
a border sloping to the south. Immediately after planting give a 
heavy mulching of manure, and to insure continuous growth keep 
them well watered during dry spells, otherwise, when the time comes 
for lifting the plants, some will be at rest, others in full vigor of 
growth. In the latter case the transfer to the flower pot cannot be 
effected without detriment to the bulbs; the roots are large, pre- 
venting a suitable quantity of soil being given while using a pot 
within a reasonable size. 

Propagation. It is a trifle costly to raise the finer kinds of 
Amaryllis from seeds secured as a result of cross pollinating the 



264 PLANT CULTURE 

flowers of the best varieties, but by this method very many fine 
forms result. Our collection is usually at its best about the middle 
of February, when cross pollinating is performed. The seed vessels 
take about six weeks to ripen. The seed is spread out for a few 
days to dry and sown in boxes near the end of March. By the be- 
ginning of June the seedlings are in 2-inch pots. Quite a number 
of the bulbs send up good sized flowers the second year. During 
the third year all of the bulbs will be in flower ; many of the flowers 
will be from lo to 12 inches in diameter. This is greenhouse work, 
but bulbs can be grown to perfection in the Bermudas and other 
places having a high Winter temperature, thus reducing the cost 
considerably. One would imagine that a good paying industry could 
be started in Bermuda by growing the finer varieties and disposing 
of them to the florists in the United States. The plants may also 
be propagated by offsets which may be separated from the pot 
plants during the operation of potting, or taken from the old bulbs 
when lifting in the open border in Autumn. In the latter case they 
may be stored for the Winter in boxes of sandy soil, and either 
potted off in Spring or planted out with the larger bulb. 

HYACINTHUS (Hyacinth). For garden culture many persons 
feel that the Hyacinth is too stiff and formal, but they are quite 
satisfactory when grown in geometrical beds of different shapes. 
The best effects are obtained by planting in soHd colors and 
having all the heights the same. Small bulbs are known as 
miniatures and are useful for informal planting and are also useful 
for cutting. Single Hyacinths are more satisfactory for outdoor 
planting than double ones. They appreciate a lighter soil than 
most bulbs, and it is advised to set the bulbs on a thin layer of sand. 
They, of all bulbs, need protection in Winter. (See also page 242.) 

IRIS, BULBOUS. UnHke the German and Siberian Iris, /. 
xiphioides (English) and /. xiphium (Spanish) are bulbous. The 
bulbs are cheap, and yet so few of this class of Iris are planted that 
we wish to commend this excellent group. Plant them in good, 
friable, well drained soil, the latter part of September. They will 
bloom the next year in May. The Spanish Iris will start into growth 
immediately upon being planted. The English will wait until 
Spring before sprouting. The two sorts are easily distinguished. 
The English have wider petals and are found in blue and violet only; 
the Spanish are often yellow as well as blue, white and other shades, 
and have comparatively narrow petals; they also bloom two weeks 
earlier. The bulbs are subject to a rot which is best prevented from 



BULBOUS PLANTS 265 

spreading by digging the bulbs after the leaves have matured. 
To many people /. reticulata is the aristocrat of the genus but 
florists do not give it the attention it deserves. It is rarely seen in 
a flower store. Out of doors it will bloom before the snow has 
melted; that having happened several times in recent years. It was 
planted by the side of a wall facing south. The color of the flower 
is that of the Violet, but darker, and the fragrance is also that of the 
Violet. A few bulbs in a 4- or 5-inch pot make a very fine showing. 
One of the reasons why we seldom see it is probably because the bulbs 
remain too long in the seed stores and are pretty well dried up before 
planting. This gorgeous Iris will not stand this treatment; it should 
be in the ground by the latter part of August. The species should 
certainly be given a trial by florists. When established it keeps in 
good condition out of doors for a long number of years. The bulbs 
when planted in pots are very easily forced, provided they make 
their roots early enough. Seeds are produced more or less freely. 
There is no doubt that it will become popular when it's culture is 
better known. There are one or two varieties differing mainly in 
the colors of the flowers. When well grown out of doors it usually 
sets seeds the second season after planting. If sown as soon as ripe 
the seedlings will bloom in about two years. (For other Irises 
see page 193.) 

LACHENALIA (Cape Cowslip). The Lachenalias are not 
common and should be more grown, not for cutting, as the flowers 
are not suitable for this purpose, but for pot plants. The leaves, 
even by themselves, are very attractive, being broad, rich green, 
and spotted with brown. The flowers are greenish red and yellow 
arranged in spikes. L. tricolor var. Nelsoni, a bright yellow and 
green flowering sort, is the commonest. Small bulbs should always 
be saved and grown on, as they increase in size quickly under 
cultivation. 

Culture. By the first of August Lachenalia bulbs should be 
knocked out of the pots, the sizes sorted and the largest put, say 
four together, in a 5-inch pot, and plunged for the time being among 
ashes in a frame. The smaller bulbs should be potted or boxed for 
growing on. 

Propagation. The bulbs multiply rapidly. 

LEUCOJUM (Summer Snowflake). This bulb should al- 
ways be grown in herbaceous collections. L. CBstivum grows to a 
height of 18 inches and its remarkable appearance in flower is very 
pleasing. It is at its best about the beginning of May. L. vernum 



266 PLANT CULTURE 

is not so tall as the first named, but the flowers are larger and the 
plant more dwarf. 

Propagation. They are propagated from seeds sown as soon 
as ripened. Some increase rapidly by the division of old clumps. 

LILIUM (Lily). There are probably over loo species of Lilies, 
all natives of the Northern hemisphere. 

Greenhouse Lilies. The species used so much for forcing in 
pots is known as L. longiflorum, a native of China and Japan. A 
number of varieties are now used by the florist. L. I. vsLV.formosum 
is a quick forcing sort; L. I. var. giganteum is especially used for the 
Easter trade and is the sort commonly kept in cold storage for all- 
the-year use. Besides these, L. I. Harrisii and£. /. midtiflorum are 
used. L. candidum, the Madonna Lily, is of lesser importance for 
forcing, but is exceedingly attractive. 

Culture. The bulbs should be potted as soon as procurable, 
and plunged in a frame with a bottom of sifted cinders; the plunging 
material should be cocoanut fiber, leaf soil, or thoroughly rotted 
hotbed material. This precaution works well in maintaining an 
equal state of moisture in the pots without the necessity of frequent 
waterings. To prevent the sun drying the surface of the soil enough 
covering of loose stable litter should be given. Remove the plants 
indoors on the approach of severe weather. For early forcing the 
pots may be placed directly on the bench of a cool greenhouse, and 
precautions taken to keep the soil in an equably moist state, avoid- 
ing either extreme. These bulbs should also be covered with some 
light material to prevent baking. The pots used should be small 
enough, so as to provide for a shift into 6- and 7-inch sizes as the 
plants require it. Much better results are thus obtained, because 
roots are formed on the stem of the Lily above the bulb, and often 
above the soil, when they are planted directly into their flowering 
pots, and especially when they are planted with the tops of the bulbs 
level with the surface of the soil. So it will be seen that a shift 
given after the plants have made considerable headway will work 
advantageously in supplying new rooting material, not only for 
the roots already formed in the soil, but for those forming on the 
stem above it. 

In potting put one large piece of broken pot, concave side 
down, over the hole in the bottom, and over this some half-decayed 
leaves, not moss, as the latter retains too much moisture at the 
bottom of the pot; ram the soil moderately firm. The soil should 
have good, fibrous loam, enriched to about one-fifth of its bulk with 



BULBOUS PLANTS 



>67 




LiLIUM CANDIDUM (MaDONNA LiLy) 



268 PLANT CULTURE 

well rotted stable manure; this, with the addition of some broken up 
charcoal, is as much for the purpose of keeping the soil open as for 
feeding. The aphis is one of the worst enemies of the Lily when 
grown indoors, and the conditions favorable to its increase should 
be guarded against — keeping the plants in perfect health is the best 
preventive measure. Some of the things to be avoided are sudden 
changes in temperature, chilly drafts, soil too wet or too dry. 
Fumigating or vaporizing with tobacco must frequently be resorted 
to whenever the aphis makes its appearance. 

Preparing Bulbs for Potting. If, as is frequently the case, 
the bulbs on arrival are a trifle shrivelled, do not pot them imme- 
diately, as they are apt to get a setback by so doing. The treat- 
ment they get should be directed to restore the bulb as soon as pos- 
sible to that condition in which it was when taken from the soil. 
This can be done in the following manner much more quickly and 
with better results than when potted immediately into soil. A cool, 
moist propagating house is an ideal place for the operation. Place 
the bulbs as close together as they will go in the moderately wet 
sand. They may be either covered with sand for a day or two, 
without wetting, or covered with papers during the driest and hot- 
test part of the day, until they get plump and fresh-looking, taking 
care that they be potted just before the roots break through, for if 
potting be done after the roots make their appearance more harm 
than good will result. 

L. Speciosum. At the season when Roses and Carnations 
are scarce, both in and out of the greenhouse, a grand substitute 
may be found in the Japanese Lily, Lilium speciosum. It is one of 
the best, if not the very best, so far as graceful structure of flower 
is concerned, being far ahead of the popular variety of L. longiflorum 
in this respect. L. speciosum was introduced from Japan; it was 
then erroneously called Lilium lancifolium, a name by which it is 
still known in many places. The species is extremely variable in 
form and color of flower, color of stems, foliage, buds, and even in 
the anthers. Among the whites, L. s. Krcetzcri, imported direct 
from Japan, is one of the finest. This variety has greenish stripes 
down each of the six divisions of the flower; the anthers are brown. 
L. s. album-novum has larger flowers, with bright yellow anthers. 
L. s. album, grown in Europe, gradually becomes tinged with pink. 
L. s. punctatum has white flowers dotted with pink. The principal 
pink or carmine forms are L. roseum rubrum; others are Liiiums 
Schrymakersi, cruentum, purpureum, purpuratum, magnijicum and 



BULBOUS PLANTS 269 

superbum. The natural period for blooming outside, according to 
locality, is from the end of July till September. A variety called 
L. Melpomene^ which sometimes gets to be 6 feet high, was raised 
b}'' the late Mr. Hovey, of Boston, many years ago. It was said to 
be a hybrid between L. speciosmn andL. auratum. It is larger than 
L. speciosum but dies out readily from no apparent cause. 

It may be stated for guidance in the cultivation of Liliiim specio- 
sum that it is perfectly hardy here in well drained light soil, that is, 
on raised rockwork; but unless the bulbs are lifted at intervals of 
two years and immediately replanted in freshly worked soil, with 
manure added, they get smaller and smaller, ultimately dying from 
starvation. For pot cultivation and to bloom early in Summer 
Lilium speciosum it is one of the easiest to manage, but less trouble 
will be experienced by planting out in raised beds, giving the neces- 
sary protection from severe and late frosts in localities where those 
conditions exist. 

Hardy Lilies. Everyone who has a pretty garden, some time, 
sooner or later, takes up the growing of Lilies. They are the charm 
of the border wherever they are planted. Success with Lihes is not 
difhcult if one confines himself to a few sorts which he can grow. 
Lilies are of such diverse requirements that it is only by careful 
preparation of soils and individual study of their needs that all 
kinds can be grown successfully in any one location. The Tiger 
Lily, L. tigrinumy seems to grow as easily as most weeds and is not 
even choked by them. Other LiHes prefer good soil, usually hght 
and enriched heavily with peat and leafmold. Manure should not 
be used except as a mulch. In planting Lilies, then, it seems best to 
either add the needed sand, peat and leafmold or to actually remove 
the native soil to a depth of 2}/^ feet. A good thick layer of leaves 
or leafmold is always beneficial as a Winter mulch unless there is a 
growing ground cover. 

In Spring the young shoots are frequently injured by late frosts 
and it is v/ell to use a few evergreen boughs. For the landscape they 
are easily combined with shrubbery or the herbaceous border, where 
they are perfectly at home. The Wild Yellow or Canada (L. can- 
adense), the Turk's Cap (L. superbum), and the Yellow Speciosum 
(£. Henryi) succeed admirably in beds of Rhododendrons; especially 
when the Rhododendrons do not crowd them too much. The 
Gold-banded Lily {L. auratum) should be planted among shrubs 
so that the roots are continually shaded, and where a fair degree 
of moisture is maintained. The Coral (L. tenuifolium), and the 
Thunbergian Lihes (L. elegans), are excellent planted among ferns 



270 PLANT CULTURE 

which furnish an excellent landscape effect besides. The Madonna 
{L. candidum), grows nicely by itself and is most useful for clumps 
under pergolas or as an edging for walks. 

MUSCARI (Grape Hyacinth). M. hotry aides is a little gem 
for the garden. The blue and white miniature bells, when seen in 
mass, are most attractive either in the border or when naturalized 
in grass or woodland. There are several other forms which are in- 
tensely interesting, especially the plumed or feathery Grape Hya- 
cinth {M. pliimosum var. monstrosum). In this the floral parts are 
much elongated and appear very feathery. It grows only 6 or 8 
inches tall and needs to be planted in the very front of border or 
in rockery. 

NARCISSUS (Includes Daffodil, Jonquil and Chinese 
Sacred Lily). There are a great many types and species of Nar- 
cissus. So great is the difference of opinion concerning them, even 
by botanists, that we will not try to present a complete outline 
of them, except to say that the following may help to classify the* 
various types: 

Long Trumpet. To this class belong all varieties with distinct 
tubular centers which are as long as the outer parts of the flower. 
They are known as N. Pseudo-narcissus. There are two groups of 
the long trumpet Narcissus; the self colors and the bicolors; besides 
these there are singles and doubles. The doubles are termed 
Daffodils. 

Medium Trumpet. To this class belong all varieties with dis- 
tinct tubular centers, which are about half as long as the outer parts 
of the floWer. When the flower doubles the tubular centers are 
really present but are much divided. The doubles are known as 
Phoenix varieties and the singles include the Incomparahilis and 
Leedsii varieties. 

Short Trumpet. To this class belong all varieties in which 
the tubular center is a mere cup or even a ruffle. The flowers of 
some of the varieties belonging to this group are borne in bunches 
of from three to ten blooms. They are called Tazetta or Polyanthus 
varieties. They are not hardy and should not be planted out of 
doors. Varieties representative of this group are: the Chinese 
Sacred Lily, the Paperwhite Narcissus (which is so easily grown in 
pots), and the yellow Soleil d'Or. Varieties which merely have a 
frill at the center are Poet's Narcissus, N. poeticus. They are very 
adaptable to garden culture and often spread very rapidly. The 
catalogues terra thera poeticus varieties. They should not be con- 



BULBOUS PLANTS 271 

fused with the Poetaz varieties, which are hybrids between N. poeiicus 
and N. Tazeita; these are not very hardy. A third class are the Jon- 
quils, N. jonquilla. Many persons call any single Narcissus a 
Jonquil; this is a mistake. Jonquils have very slender leaves; the 
flowers are either single or double, very sweet scented and pro- 
duced in clusters of from three to six. They are hardy in the 
North with protection. 

OXALIS. Some of the best kinds are 0. cernua, yellow; 0. 
Bowiei and O. hirta, pink, and 0. versicolor, white. 0. rubricaulis 
is desirable not so much for the flowers as for the highly colored red 
stems. O. Bowiei and 0. versicolor are well suited for baskets, for 
hanging in conservatories. The last named requires very little heat. 

Culture. The main batch of Oxalis for Winter flowering should 
be potted up by the middle of October. Put a single bulb in each 
pot, using 3-inch pots to start with, and shifting on the plants as 
they need it until they are in 5- or 6-inch pots, in which they bloom. 
When several bulbs are potted together in a large pot, at first they 
are certain to produce foliage in abundance and but few flowers. 
By the middle of June the bulbs will be dried off ; this is accomplished 
by withholding water and turning the pots on their sides. Be careful 
to place them so that the soil is exposed to view, as mice are ex- 
ceedingly fond of the bulbs. All of the kinds grown for their flowers 
in Winter are very prolific in the production of new bulbs, that is, 
if sufficient root room has been given for their perfect development 
during the growing period. Home grown bulbs are very superior 
to those imported. 

POLIANTHES (Tuberose). P. tuherosa is grown largely for 
supplying white flowers during Summer and Fall months. The tall 
double form is grown mostly by florists. They may be put in the 
ground after danger from frost is past, and at later intervals to give 
a succession of flowers. The finest bulbs are supplied so cheaply 
by American growers, that it does not pay to propagate in small 
quantities. 

RANUNCULUS (Persian and Turban Buttercups). With- 
in recent years the Persian Buttercup, Ranunculus asiaticus and its 
variety africanuSj the Turban Ranunculus, have come into promi- 
nence. The flowers resemble a Buttercup, but they are over 2 inches 
in diameter and extremely double. Varieties of all colors but 
clear blue are on the market. The roots resemble small Dahlia 
tubers. These Rananculi are not hardy. At present the most popu- 



272 



PLANT CULTURE 




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BULBOUS PLANTS 273 

lar varieties are: Romano, the commonest bright scariet variety; 
Hercules, the best white; Citron, a clear yellowish orange; Souci 
Dore, a brownish orange; Grootvorst, a handsome light carmine. 

Outdoor Culture. As the Ranunculus blooms in late May 
and early June and is not hardy, the bulbs must be planted in a 
partially shaded spot as soon as danger of frost has passed. They 
should be planted about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart and 
should be surrounded by sand, both above and below the bulbs. 
After the leaves have matured in August the bulbs should be lifted 
and stored in a cool place. 

Greenhouse Culture. The plants should not be forced by 
great heat; 40 to 50 degrees is sufficient. High temperature will 
cause weak and crooked stems. A second requirement is good 
drainage; abundance of moisture causes the bulbs to decay. Com- 
mercially, the bulbs are placed in flats or benches and planted in 
late October and are kept cool to form roots. They will bloom 
from February to late March. 

Propagation. They are propagated principally in Holland 
and are grown from seed in three years. Before the war three or 
four millions were shipped to France each year. 

SANDERSONIA. S. aurantiaca is one of the prettiest species 
of the Lily family, but one seldom sees it in good condition. Its 
claim for attention lies in the peculiarly shaped flowers which are 
slightly bell shaped and pendulous. It does well planted out in 
peaty soils. The tubers should be carefully collected on the 
approach of frost and replanted in Spring. The tubers keep 
well in dry sand during the Winter months. Give about same 
treatment as for Gloriosa. 

Propagation. Seeds are produced only sparingly. 

SCILLA (Squill, includes Wood Hyacinth). The Scillas are 
for the most part Spring flowers, and are not much used by florists, 
but they are useful and beautiful out of doors. S. nonscripta {nu- 
tans) is the wild Hyacinth. S. sibirica, the Siberian Squill, and 
S. bijolia are good dwarf species. S. italica, the Itahan Squill; 
S. puschk'mioides and S. campanulata (Jiispanica), the Wood Hya- 
cinth are all worth growing. They are generally able to persist 
without coddhng for many years; they are supplied by dealers. 

Propagation. Some of the best of the species are easily 
raised from seeds, although the bulbs naturally divide. 

TECOPHILi^A (Chilean Crocus). T. cyanocrocus and the 
form named after Max Leitchhn produce beautiful blue flowers. 



274 PLANT CULTURE 

In Washington they thrive splendidly when planted on rock- 
work. The odor of the flowers is that of the Violet. 

Propagation. They are propagated from self sown seeds 
and from offsets. 

TIGRIDIA (Tiger Flower). The common species, T. pavonia, 
and the many varieties of this beautiful plant outclass all members 
of the Iris family for brilliancy of colors. 

Culture. The care necessary to get them to bloom in Summer 
is much like that for Gladiolus. The corms should be kept dormant 
until warm weather arrives by placing them in pots of dry sand. 
They are planted in late Spring. The corms should be lifted before 
freezing in the Autumn. 

Propagation. The corms multiply by natural division. 

TRICYRTIS (Japanese Toad-Lily). T, hirta is a curious 
but beautiful plant. It is the latest of the hardy herbaceous plants 
to come in flower. It usually blooms in October and November. 
During Summer the foliage is quite ornamental. The individual 
flowers, of which there are many on a stalk, are shaped like those of 
a Lily, only much smaller. The flowers are pinkish white, spotted 
with purple. This subject should be planted in moist soil, or where 
a mulch can be given, in order to preserve the foliage till the bloom- 
ing period. 

Propagation. The plant divides easily, or cuttings may be 
made from the flowering stems and put in a coldframe late in the 
season. 

TRILLIUM (Wake Robin). About a dozen species of these 
beautiful and interesting native plants are in cultivation. T. 
grandiflorum is the one most commonly grown, owing to its very 
large white flowers. Its culture is of the simplest description, re- 
quiring a half-shaded position with abundance of vegetable humus 
in the soil. It is sometimes grown in pots for early forcing, for 
which purpose it is well adapted. The rhizomes should be potted 
as soon as the plants are at rest, late in Summer, and plunged in a 
cool frame until wanted. With very Httle heat they will flower 
several weeks in advance of their usual time. 

TRITONIA (Blazing Star). T. Pottsii, which usually goes 
under the generic name Montbretia, is a plant of the Iris family with 
orange colored flowers. It survives zero temperatures in Washing- 
ton with no snow on the ground. There are many other species. 
This plant with many others could be gotten up in quantity for 



BULBOUS PLANTS 275 

cutting. Farther north it stands the Winters by placing a quantity 
of leaves over the crowns and these held in place with a spadeful 
or two of soil thrown over them. 

Propagation. It is increased by division. Some of the newer 
varieties are very prolific bloomers. They are increased from seeds 
and especially by division in the Autumn. 

TULIPA (Tulip). There are a number of forms of Tulips, all 
of which are interesting. The earliest Tulips are of the Due Van 
Thol group {Tiilipa suaveolens). The stems are rather short and 
they would not be commended for garden culture except for the 
fact that they are very early. They are usually characterized by 
rather pointed or laterally rolled petals. The midseason Tulips oc- 
cupy most of the garden interest. Hundreds of varieties are pic- 
tured and described in the catalogues. This main group is often 
termed T. Gesneriana. It includes the peculiar fringed petaled 
group, known as the Parrot or Dragon, together with the Darwins 
with their subtle colors and long stems, as well as the May flowering 
or Cottage varieties, which possess the long stems of the Darwins, 
but the blooms, instead of being globular, are more or less bell 
shaped, the tips of the petals being reflexed. (For Culture, see head 
of this chapter, pps. 242, 243.) 

VALLOTA (Scarborough Lily). The commonly cultivated 
species is V. purpurea, sl very useful plant, either for the greenhouse 
or the window garden, but not of much service to the florist, as it 
flowers at a period when the demand for cut flowers is not very 
great. The flowers are reddish scarlet, several in an umbel; in ap- 
pearance somewhat like those of an Amaryllis. The foliage is ever- 
green, but during the resting season the supply of water should be 
curtailed. As the bulbs will last in the same pots for several years, 
the drainage should be carefully arranged, and the soil mixed with 
crushed bone. During growth occasional waterings with manure 
should be given. 

Propagation. The Vallota has a very curious method of mak- 
ing young plants. These young plants are produced to such an 
extent that the process tends to curtail the flowering propensities 
of the larger bulbs if attention be not given in the matter of re- 
moving them. In course of time they form two colonies, one on 
each side of the parent bulb. The bases of the leaves forming the 
bulb have each a small, bud like growth a considerable distance 
from the base or disk, but attached to the disk by a root like for- 
mation which continues active, after the swollen base of the leaf is 



276 



PLAXT CULTURE 




Call A Gudirlv 



BULBOUS PLANTS 277 

dead, in supplying nutriment to the young bulb until it sends out 
roots. When this little root like process is of no further use it 
gradually shrivels up. Afterward the young bulbs grow apace and 
rob the soil of the nourishment intended for the parent bulb. This 
provision evidently shows that the Vallota naturally grows deep in 
the soil and is intended to raise the bulblets near to the surface 
before taking root. These bulblets, unless intended for increasing 
the stock, should be removed as soon as they make their appearance 
above the soil. 

ZANTEDESCHIA (Richardia. Calla Lily). These showy 
plants are grown for their pure white or yellow flowers and fresh 
green or marked foliage. Z. cethiopica is the commonest white 
species, useful for a pot plant and commercial cut flowers. Z. 
Elliottiana is a yellow species with long white, translucent spots 
scattered over the leaves. 

Culture. Plants when not in bloom should have the water 
gradually withheld from them, and as the foliage dies down turn 
the pots on their sides and leave them in this position until the 
time arrives for starting into growth in Autumn. The pots should 
not be put in a place where the sun will have full play on them. For 
increasing the stock of the yellow varieties they should be grown all 
Summer; plant them outside in rich, well drained situations where 
they can be watered abundantly when occasion requires it. All of 
them are easily raised from seeds. In Winter they need a minimum 
temperature of 60 degrees. By the middle of September the largest 
sizes of Z. cBthiopicas)\o\i\6.he.\n 6- and 7-inch pots and placed in 
an open frame. Have the sash handy so that they may be protected 
during wet weather. With a good watering at first they won't need 
much moisture till good roots are formed. At least one-third of 
rotted cow manure should be in the soil. 

ZEPHYRANTHES (Fairy Lily). Most of the species of this 
charming genus are hardy at Washington and possibly much farther 
north, when they get protection. They should have a position 
which is fairly well sheltered and given a Winter covering of leaves. 
There are about a dozen species. Z. Candida flowers in Autumn. 
Z. Atamasco is most largely grown and bears white flowers and 
blooms in Summer. Z. carinata bears rose colored blooms in Sum- 
mer. 

Propagation. They usually ripen a considerable quantity 
of seeds and may be propagated in this way, but it is cheaper to 
get the bulbs from dealers. 



CHAPTER X 

Bedding, Vase and Window Box Plants 



Vases and Window Boxes. For indoor boxes for windows or 
other places where there is not much light the following plants 
will be found useful, as they are almost hardy, and, with ordinary 
care, they will last a long time in a presentable condition: Rokdea 
japonica and the variegated form will stand in the coldest places. 
These plants, by the way, are perfectly hardy here, the foliage 
being but slightly browned during the coldest weather. Aspidistra 
lurida and A. I. variegata, together with the spotted-leaved species 
called A. punctata, while not so hardy as the Rhodea, yet they will 
stand a good deal of cold. Of course, the plants will have to be small, 
in 5- or 6-inch pots. Old plants broken up for this purpose and im- 
mediately used are not to be depended upon, as the principal roots 
are apt to get severed in the operation. Many of the New Zealand 
Cordylines, with narrow, green leaves, can be utilized for drafty 
places; they will stand considerable frost without hurt if they have 
been grown cool. Farfugiiim grande, a broad leaved composite with 
yellow spots, is another well known plant which comes through zero 
weather all right. Niphobolus lingua corymbifera, a tough leaved 
crested Fern, can be got up in quantity for use by division of the 
stems which grow near the surface of the soil. Lastrcea prolifica, a 
dwarf dark, green leaved species; Lastrea opaca, Pteris serrulata, 
and Adiantum Capillus -Veneris are all pretty hardy, as well as 
ornamental species of Ferns good for the purpose. 

When vases have to be filled with only one kind of plant, hardly 
anything will be found more appropriate than the Russelias. The 
branches are erect in a young state, eventually becoming drooping. 
If the plants are put in a light, rich soil, with abundance of water 
during the growing period, they will be in bloom most of the time. 
Only one-year-old plants should be used for large vases; that is, 
plants in 6- or 7-inch pots, as when of that size they soon become 
furnished with good sized branches. The old and well known 
Russelia juncea is the best for the purpose, although R. sarmentosa 
and R. Lemoinei are both good, giving a greater number of flowers, 

278 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 279 




o 

^; 

a 

< 
O 

o 

o 

Q 

Z 



28o PLANT CULTURE 

which, however, are smaller than those of R. juncea. Among those 
plants needed for the center of vases, Pandanus Veitchii and the 
numerous varieties of the grassy leaved species of Cordyline, such as 
C. australis, are among the best. Last year's seedlings of the Cordy- 
lines, if they have been liberally treated, will be large enough by 
the beginning of the season for all ordinary purposes. They stand 
the hot sun well. Pandanus Veitchii colors well under full sunshine, 
but needs more water than the Cordylines. P. Bapiistii, of which 
much was expected as an outdoor Summer plant, is rather disap- 
pointing, as its foliage is too tender for exposed places. 

Other good flowering and trailing plants for vases and baskets, 
are the three species of Torenia, two purple and one yellow, 
besides the so-called white variety; and Maurandia Bardaiana, 
all of which may be grown from seed in a short time; Mesembry- 
anthemum cordifoUum; Parlor Ivy; all the trailing Vincas and 
Ahutilon vexillarium are indispensable. The variegated Ground 
Ivy will stand the sun well in exposed situations; it is dwarf 
growing and comes in handy for planting around the edges of vases 
and baskets, where its long hanging growths can be seen to ad- 
vantage. Stock of it, kept in boxes under the cover of sash, should 
be cut up during the early Spring, and small pieces with roots at- 
tached placed in sandy soil in boxes, and either returned to the 
frame or brought into a cool house, to be started into growth pre- 
vious to potting. 

ACALYPHA. There are about eight species and varieties of 
Acalypha grown as bedding plants. With the exception of A. 
hispida (Sanderi) they are ornamental foliage plants, having bronze 
colored leaves of varying shades. A. Godseffiana and A. Hamil- 
toniana are marked with creamy white margins. A. Wilkesiana 
has several variations, the best known of which are A. Macafeeana 
and A. musaica. A. hispida has very ornamental pendant spikes 
of red flowers, produced in the axils of the leaves. 

Culture. (For indoor culture see page 55.) 

Propagation. Cuttings may be taken in the Fall before the 
cold weather injures the plants, but to save space the old plants 
should be lifted, cut back, and boxed or potted, starting them into 
growth in early Spring, when they push out from every bud giving 
abundant material for propagating. 

ALTERNANTHERA. The Alternantheras form a class of 
brilliant leaved plants unexcelled for low carpet bedding. In Peru 
they are common weeds. 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 281 




ASCLEPIA CURASSAVICA 



Propagation. The dwarf and slow growing Alternantheras, 
such as A. hriUiantissima and A. paronychioides,a,rQ\insdit\siz.c\.OTy 
from cuttings, unless taken in late Summer and kept growing. 
When taken later they are apt to continue in a weak condition all 
through the Winter. But in either case they take up too much room 
in the greenhouse for nearly eight months. A much better method 
is to lift the old plants before the frost blackens them, cut over to 
within 3 or 4 inches from the roots; put the cut over plants as thickly 
as they will go in boxes; give water once and place under the benches 
of a warm house, where they will get some light. About the be- 
ginning of March bring the boxes up to the light, sprinkle about 
an inch of sand among the plants, and give water. Two weeks later 
divide the plants and pot them, when it will be found the pieces 
are much superior to plants from cuttings and make a better and 
quicker display in their Summer quarters. 

ASCLEPIAS. A. Curassavica is a greenhouse plant in Euro- 
pean gardens but may be used for bedding.. 



282 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. Seeds sown first half of February, and the plants 
put out from 3-inch pots in May, will grow 5 feet high and 3 feet 
through, bearing myriads of yellow and red flowers. Seeds ripen 
freely on outdoor plants. 

BEGONIA. A number of species of Begonias are used for 
bedding, principally the tuberous sorts, B. fuchsioides, and the 
many varieties oi B. setnperflorens. (See also pp. 70, 177.) 

Propagation by Seed. Seeds of the bedding varieties should 
be sown by the beginning of January, to have the plants in good 
shape for Spring sales. Cuttings are often used, but they do not 
make anything like as good plants as those from seed. The seed 
should be sown in boxes or pans. Sterilize the soil used on the sur- 
face, firm well, water, then sow thinly without covering the seed, or 
with only a very small quantity of fine sand, covering the box or 
pan with a pane of glass until the seeds vegetate. 

BELLIS (English Daisy). B. perennis, the common pink and 
white double Daisy of Spring, is most attractive for bedding as well 
as for use in the early window box. The plants are not perfectly 
hardy and should be wintered in a frame. 

Propagation, The best kinds are perpetuated by dividing the 
plants after blooming, but in many parts of the country these 
plants do not survive hot weather. Seeds should be sown during 
September. 

CANNA. (See Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants.) 

CHi^ENOSTOMA. A charming dwarf shrub, C. hispidum, is not 
so well known among florists as its merits deserve. It is useful in 
a number of ways, but principally as a plant for filling boxes or bas- 
kets. For rockwork, cemeteries or even as a bedding plant it is 
prettier than a number of the things commonly used for such pur- 
poses. It has a procumbent or decumbent habit, according to the 
position in which it finds itself, and has the great merit of being 
continually decked with a host of neat little pinkish white, star- 
shaped flowers. 

Propagation. It is remarkably quick in making a bushy 
growth from the seedling or cutting stage. For propagation lift 
old plants in the Fall; keep in the greenhouse and take cuttings 
from the young growths early in the Spring. 

DUSTY MILLER. There are a number of plants known as 
Dusty Millers. They are used on account of their foliage, which is 
densely covered with very fine white hairs, so much so that the 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 283 

leaves have a whitish appearance. Two common species, Senecio 
(Centaurea) candidissima and S. maritima, are much grown. 

Propagation. The most reUable method of propagation is 
from seed, which should be sown in Autumn. Cuttings may also 
be taken, avoiding those which are very robust. Give them treat- 
ment similar to that recommended for Gazanias. (See page 228.) 

CODI.^UM (Croton). (See also page 100 for indoor culture.) 
It is only within recent years that these plants have been used to 
any extent in the open ground. They succeed well, putting on 
colors much superior to what we usually see indoors. Some of the 
higher colored varieties are unsuited for this work, as they need a 
high temperature at night as well as during the day. The following 
are the kinds which have been found reliable: C. Lady Zetland, C. 
pictum, C. aucubcBfoliiimj C. chrysophylliim (one of the most satis- 
factory), C. multicolor, C. interriiptiim, C. Veitchii and C. Weismanni. 
As these may be grown successfully from 10 to 15 degrees cooler 
thanC. Rcidii, C. Challenger and others of that section, they should 
be given a trial even in the Northern States. 

Propagation and Culture. The principal batch of cuttings 
for bedding plants is taken beginning of September. If there is no 
bottom heat by that time they will root splendidly in a close propa- 
gating frame. With bottom heat they root in the open bed, and 
the cuttings may be quite large. Allow quite a quantity of roots 
to form before potting, A minimum temperature of 60 degrees 
will be found sufficient during Winter for the above varieties. Be- 
fore putting them in the ground they must be very gradually har- 
dened off, otherwise they are apt to lose the lower leaves. Old 
plants in pots should be given a top dressing of bonemeal and 
plunged out of doors, to furnish cuttings. 

COLEUS. Owing to the ease of producing young plants by 
slips, their rapid growth and very ornamental foliage, when 
planted out, the very numerous kinds will continue to be popular 
bedding plants. In Winter young plants should not be subjected 
to a lower temperature than 55 degrees. 

Propagation. From a few plants grown from cuttings, put in 
during the beginning of September, a large quantity of young 
plants may be raised in Spring. In this latitude we have little use 
for hotbeds. In other locahties, where the nights are colder during 
April and the first half of May, the hotbed is an indispensable ad- 
junct to the greenhouse for developing plants such as Coleus from 
late rooted cuttings. 



284 PLANT CULTURE 

CUPHEA. C. igfiea {platy centra) is the Firecracker Plant, 
bearing an abundance of fiery scarlet flowers. C. Llavea, known as 
the Red-White-and-Blue Flower, has large and handsome flowers, 
but they are not freely produced until the plants have made 
considerable growth. 

Propagation. C ignea is chiefly propagated by cuttings, but 
seeds may also be sown. 

FICUS. The common Rubber plant, F. elastica, may be asso 
dated with such plants as Variegated Screw Pines, Crotons, Vari- 
egated Panax and Draccena Sanderiana in the formation of tropical 
groups of plants. They make very rapid progress when plunged in 
5-inch pots shortly after being potted from 3-inch pots. All of these 
may be arranged where the full sun will strike them. The Ficus 
must be examined from time to time, to prevent the roots from 
establishing themselves outside of the pots. (For other notes on 
Ficus see page 121.) 

GERANIUM. (See Pelargonium, page 288.) 

HELIOTROPIUM (Heliotrope). H. peruvianum is grown 
principally on account of the sweet-scented flowers. There are dark 
and light lilac varieties, also a few with whitish flowers. Some 
years ago a very large flowered kind was sent out, but it had no 
perfume, and its first season was its last. The kinds will succeed 
best in full sun. Old plants should be wintered, planted out on a 
bench. A minimum temperature of 40 degrees will suit. 

Propagation. From these plants abundant material for 
propagation may be had in early Spring. 

IMPATIENS (Balsam). Two sorts, /. halsamina, Lady Slipper, 
and /. Sultani, the Zanzibar Balsam, are grown. In former years 
many florists depended to a great extent upon the white Camellia 
flowered Lady Slippers for supplying material for designs during 
Summer. The crop is sometimes disappointing, owing to a large 
percentage of the seedlings bearing semi-double flowers. Those 
plants with very double flowers do not set seed very freely, of 
course, and the temptation is evidently great, in gathering a seed 
crop, to collect the capsules from the very abundant crops on the 
single flowered plants to the exclusion of those on the doubles and 
semi-doubles. A few plants of the best types carefully lifted from 
the field during dull weather and put indoors, will seed more freely 
than when left at the mercy of wind and rain. The Zanzibar Balsam 
is used for greenhouse decoration as well as a bedding plant; the 
colors are distinct and bright. 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 285 

Propagation. For late crops the seeds of /. halsamina may be 
sown out of doors and transplanted. To have them in bloom early- 
sow in shallow hotbeds and transplant about the middle of May, 
earlier or later, according to locality. /. Sultani may be raised from 
seed sown in March, but is usually grown from cuttings. 

IRESINE (Achyranthes). As a bedding plant, treat much 
the same as Coleus. /. Lindeni has pointed leaves of a deep blood 
red; /. Herhstii has rounded leaves with a deep notch in the apex; 
the type is purple red, but the var. aureo-reticidata has yellow veins 
and green or reddish green leaves. They will stand a lower tem- 
perature than Coleus. 

Propagation. Cuttings put in during September can be used 
as stock plants in the Spring. 




MusA ENSETE (Banana Plant) — See page 287 



286 



PLANT CULTURE 



^^^^H^^K T^^^H^^^SI . 


M 








fl 


'^y ' 


_| 



Lantana 



ISOTOMA. In Europe /. longiflora is grown as a greenhouse 
subject. In America it is one of our most showy white flowering 
biennials for the open border. The plants before coming in bloom 
are anything but attractive, as they closely resemble some of our 
common coarse growing weeds. The flowers, on large plants, are 
anything but sparingly produced; they are pure white, an inch or 
so across the petals.. 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 287 

Propagation. Sow the seed in a cool greenhouse in the Au- 
tumn, or in a warm house early in Spring. Each plant will ripen an 
immense quantity of seed. 

LANTANA. Low growing greenhouse shrubs with yellow, 
white, red and purple flowers in small, close heads. L. camara and 
L. Sellowiana {delicatissima) are principally grown. The latter sort 
has lilacy rose flowers and is trailing in habit. They are perfectly 
at home in the open border, growing most luxuriantly in heavy, 
well manured soil. The leaves and flowers have an undesirable 
odor, which is against their ever becoming very popular. A mini- 
mum temperature of 50 degrees will suit all of the kinds. 

Propagation. Take cuttings early, and from plants thus 
raised they may be further propagated during February. 

MUSA (Bananas). The ordinary fruiting Bananas for sub- 
tropical bedding will do well in almost any part of the country. 
The hardiest species of the genus, and one splendidly adapted to 
our Summers, is known as the Abyssinian Banana, M. Ensete. 
M. superba is a species somewhat resembhng M. Ensete and is of 
slower growth. The foliage is sHghtly covered with a farinaceous 
looking substance. In Winter the leaves die down, the bases of 
which form a resting bulblike formation. It should be started into 
growth before planting out. If there is difficulty in disposing of 
them, which is not likely to be the case, as in every community 
there are some people who like things which are uncommon, then 
use them for the decoration of the home grounds with such plants 
as Cannas, Eulalias and dark leaved Ricinus. This combination 
will make a display that will be hard to equal. 

Culture. In one season from seed, they will, under favorable 
conditions, grow 6 feet high, and if lifted, kept over Winter and 
planted the second season, they will develop into very large speci- 
mens. They delight in rich soil. There are few things easier to keep 
over Winter. On the approach of frost the leaves should be short- 
ened back by two-thirds of their length, the plants lifted, roots 
shortened back considerably, and stowed as thickly together as 
they will go in a box and placed in some out of the way corner 
where frost will not get at them. They will pull through the Win- 
ter safely, in a pretty low temperature. When planting out time 
comes they are rather uncanny looking objects for the center of a 
bed; but they are not long in developing a crop of leaves. 

Propagation. With a plant or two to start with, no trouble 
need be experienced in getting up a stock, as many sorts sucker 



288 PLANT CULTURE 

freely from the bases of the old stems. M. Ensete and M. superba 
do not sucker like the ordinary edible fruited varieties, but are easily 
raised from seeds. Sow them the latter part of January in the sand 
bed of a warm propagating house, and pot off the seedlings when 
they have developed three or four leaves. They may be potted 
earlier if kept in bottom heat. 

OTHONNA (Little Pickles). Othonna crassifolia will stand 
full sunshine with very little water. It is of procumbent growth 
with small, yellow flowers. Lift a few old plants before frost, and 
merely lay them on the front of a sunny bench. A dozen or two 
nice little tufts may be potted up from a single plant. 

OXALIS. For outdoor blooming during September and Oc- 
tober knock out a few plants from their flowering pots and start 
some of the largest bulbs about the middle of July in 3-inch pots. 
Use light soil. Some of the plants will be in flower inside of a 
month. They can be used as bedders, to take the places of plants 
which die off as the result of warm weather; for instance, Ten-Week 
Stocks, Lobelias and Tansies. Oxalis Bowiei, O. hirta, and one which 
goes under the name of 0. crydentelles , are all very suitable for this 
kind of work. (For other species see page 271.) Plants which 
were in bloom during the Winter and Spring may be started for 
this purpose after a few weeks' rest. 

PANDANUS (Screw Pine). For bedding purposes the best 
plant in this genus is P. Veitchii. It will thrive in almost any posi- 
tion, but it makes better leaves in full sun than it does in shade. 
As young plants increase in value up to a certain size, they should 
be put out in their pots, and once or twice during Summer should 
be examined at the roots and larger pots given if necessary. The 
roots are large and soft, and when they grow over the sides of the 
plunged pot and into the surrounding soil they are difficult to 
manage afterward. (See also page 143) 

PELARGONIUM. (Includes the various Geraniums.) The 
most commonly cultivated Geranium is P. hortorum. It is difficult 
to find a substitute for this plant for outdoor bedding or pot culture. 
It is of the easiest culture, continually in flower and seldom injured 
by insects or diseases. P. peltatum is the Ivy Geranium and is very 
useful for the window box or hanging basket. The Fancy or Show 
Pelargonium, also called the Lady Washington Geranium, is again 
becoming popular as a greenhouse subject, and the variety Easter 
Greeting is an excellent pot sort for Easter and Spring. A fourth 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 289 

group of Geraniums includes those called Rose, Lemon, Nutmeg, 
and Oak-leaved Geraniums, because of their fragrant leaves. 

Culture and Propagation. Cuttings are rooted during the 
end of September or first half of October, according to locality. 
Plants that are well developed without being "drawn" are best 
for supplying cuttings. The usual method is to put each cutting in 
a thumb pot and stand these close together for the time being in a 
frame or cool house. Leafmold, sand and loam in equal parts will 
answer as a soil. Give one watering, enough to moisten the soil; 
subsequent waterings will be necessary only when it gets dry. 
Take the cutting immediately under a joint and shorten back the 
large leaf blades one half. By the end of the year they should be 
shifted into 3-inch pots, using stronger soil, and a month or six 
weeks later the plants will give a batch of cuttings which may be 
potted like the first lot. A hot, stagnant atmosphere must be 
avoided at all times. A saving of time and space may be accom- 
plished, together with providing equally fine plants, if the old 
method of propagation be adhered to. This consists in putting the 
cuttings, made with the leaf blades shortened somewhat, into boxes 
pretty thickly together, standing the boxes outside, partly shaded 
from the sun until they root. Little water is given during the 
operation, and heavy rains are to be guarded against by having 
sash ready to cover the plants. The soil used should be such as to 
enable the rooted cuttings to thrive in it until January when they 
are potted up. If kept on the dry side they will bear considerable 
cold, and will be prevented from making too rapid growth. By 
this method there should be no necessity for putting in a second 
batch of cuttings from the tops of the first lot. Give this method a 
trial on a small scale, until familiar with its working. 

The Show Pelargoniums prefer a cool, moist house and do not 
succeed under hot and dry conditions. They are quite often 
seriously troubled by white fly, which can be controlled if they are 
diligently fumigated with cyanide of potassium. Regarding the 
propagation, Mr. Fritz Bahr writes: 

"The finest Show Pelargoniums I ever had a chance to behold 
were plants grown from cuttings rooted the end of August. They 
were potted up afterward and kept shifted and growing in a cool 
house all Winter, and flowered in 7-inch and 8-inch pots the follow- 
ing Spring. The house they were in consisted of a 12 feet frame 
structure and a poor one at that, but they got the full attention of a 
good man and along with them were grown some wonderful Ivy 



290 PLANT CULTURE 

Geraniums treated the same way. A good porous soil was made 
use of, mixed with horn shavings, from January on. The Ivy 
Geraniums were grown on trelHses fully 5 feet high, each plant 
having from 30 to 50 flowers open at a time, and all were sold at a 
good price." 

PENTAS. P. lanceolata {carnea) is more familiar as a stove 
plant than for bedding purposes. They resemble Bouvardias. 
P. I. Quartiniana is rosy flowered and superior to the type. In the 
warmer parts of the country, however, it will give three months of 
rather showy bloom. 

Propagation. Treat the cuttings similarly to those of Lan- 
tana. 

PERISTROPHE. P. angustifolia is a rather loose growing, but 
dwarf and finely-variegated plant, useful for vases and baskets. 

Culture. They thrive best in partial shade and a rich loam 
containing some leaf mold. 

Propagation. Propagate in Spring, taking cuttings from 
lifted plants. 

SANCHEZIA. S. nobilis puts on a very rampant growth when 
placed out of doors in rich soil. The flowers are yellow with red 
bracts and the leaves are attractively cut. Although a bed of 
Cannas may look best by themselves, a border is often wanted of 
some other plant; this species will answer well for such a purpose. 

Propagation. Good sized cuttings root very freely. They 
may be wintered in 3-inch pots in a moderately warm house. 

SANTOLINA (Cotton Lavender). S. chamcBcyparissus {in- 
cana) is a dwarf, shrubby plant with silvery-white, fragrant foliage. 
It will thrive in almost any position with very Httle attention. It 
is valuable for its distinct foliage. 

Propagation. Cuttings should be put in during the first half 
of October; they will root in a coldframe. 

SAXIFRAGA (Aaron's Beard). 6". sarmcntosa is a very hardy 
species with ornamental flowers and foliage suitable for baskets, 
vases and boxes. There is a variegated form with showy foliage. 
It thrives out of doors all the year round in positions partly shaded 
from the sun. By the first of March fair sized plants may be put 
in 3-inch pots. 

Propagation. By natural ofl"sets, which are abundantly pro- 
duced. 



BEDDING, VASE AND WINDOW BOX PLANTS 291 

SENECIO. S. mikanioides, the German Ivy, is a useful, soft- 
growing vine with leaves the shape of the English Ivy (Hedera). 
Propagate a few plants in the Autumn, and from these a great 
number of cuttings may be taken off early in Spring. The plants are 
principally used for growing over the sides of baskets, vases, and also 
for twining to supports. 

STROBILANTHES. S. Dyerianus, especially in a young 
state, has foliage suggestive of some of the highly colored Bertolonias 




ViNCA ROSEA, WITH CLEMATIS IN BACKGROUND 



292 PLANT CULTURE 

Its treatment should be similar to that given the Coleus, so far as 
wintering and propagating are concerned. When planted out in 
the full sun, the leaves are apt to have a washed out appearance, 
especially on old plants. A situation having partial shade is best. 

VINCA (Periwinkle). V. rosea, the Madagascar Periwinkle, 
comes in three forms known as V. rosea, the pink; V. r. var. alba, the 
white; and V. r. var. oculata, a white with a pink center. They are 
very satisfactory bedding plants and come true to seed. V . major 
var. degantissima comes in very serviceable, not only for vases and 
baskets, but for indoor decoration. Specimens for this purpose 
should be in 5-inch pots, or even larger. The leaves are green 
mottled and blotched white or yellow. 

Propagation. V. rosea does not grow readily from cuttings, 
but seed should be sown about the beginning of January, to have 
fair sized plants by the beginning of May. Sow the seed thinly, 
and when large enough prick off into boxes. From these the seed- 
lings may be shifted into 3-inch pots, from which they are trans- 
ferred to the open ground. V . major is mainly propagated by cut- 
tings. Plants rooted early in the Fall and kept growing will, in 
course of time, make very long growths. A good place for them in 
this condition of growth is on the front of a sunny bench, where the 
growths are allowed to hang over the side. This plant does not 
show the effects of neglect as quickly as most other things. 




CHAPTER XI 

Hardy Shrubs 

ABELIA (Rock Abelia). This is one of the most pleasing and 
satisfactory of all flowering shrubs. It is not reliably hardy north 
of Washington, but for the Southern States it is equally as desirable 
as the Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia). Abelia chinensis is one of the 
very best for planting in cemeteries. Where the weather is not too 
severe it is evergreen; grows only to a moderate height and bears 
white flowers in great abundance. It blooms from Midsummer till 
frost. The flowers are usually to be seen on the plants up to the end 
of November. 

Propagation. It propagates freely from cuttings put in during 
October and November. Select them from the tips of the shoots; 
make them about 4 inches in length, put them close together in boxes 
of sand; place in the coolest house and shade from bright sunshine. 
By the beginning of January the batch should be gone over, as by 
that time many of the cuttings will have rooted. Those which have 
a sufficient number of roots may be put in thumb pots in the usual 
way, but in cases where only one or two roots appear the plants are 
best placed in the sides of the pots, as in that position they make 
roots more freely than when in the center. In a short time they 
will have made growth enough to be shifted into 3-inch pots, and 
before the time comes when the houses are crowded with Spring 
stock they may be transferred to the coldframe. 

ACER (Japanese Maples). The species A. palmatum, A. 
japonicum and A. Sieholdia^iiim are Japanese INIaples. They have 
very handsomely cut leaves, and especially during Spring and early 
Summer they are very highly colored. The specimens usually seen 
are from 3 to 8 feet high. The species from which the varieties 
have sprung attain a height of 20 feet. All of them are very hardy, 
and should be planted in sunny positions so that they have freedom 
to develop into symmetrical specimens. They should not be planted 
in shade, or even partial shade, on account of losing their color early 
in the season. 

293 



294 



PLANT CULTURE 




Ai. KR PU!. YMORPHl'M ATROPURPUREUM 



Propagation. Some of the varieties known as A. palmatiim 
atropurpureum, A. p. dissectum and A. p. sanguineum set seeds freely 
and produce plants like the parents; these seedhngs are much more 
vigorous than grafted plants. From old plants of A. palmatum 
seedlings are raised on which the finer varieties are grafted. Veneer 
grafting is the system most commonly employed. 

^SCULUS (Pavia. Dwarf Horse Chestnut). The com- 
monest shrubby species, ^E. parviflora (macrostachya), grows from 
3 to 9 feet high, spreading rapidly by means of stoloniferous roots. 
It flowers in June; the flowers are white, disposed in upright ra- 
cemes. yE. Pavia (rubra) var. purpurea blooms in a very young 
state; it will succeed either in sun or shade. 

Propagation. Seedlings make satisfactory blooming plants; 
^. parviflora is best propagated by division. 

AMORPHA (Bastard Indigo). A pretty and interesting 
shrub. The leaves of A. Jruticosa, the species most commonly 
grown, are pinnate and at a distance have a feathery appearance. 
The flowers, arranged in spikes, are very dark purple. 

Propagation. It is propagated by seeds, also by green or 
hardwood cuttings. 



HARDY SHRUBS 



295 




296 PLANT CULTURE 

ARALIA (Angelica Tree). Aralia japonlca, (discussed under 
Fatsia,) A. mandshurica and A. spinosa have very large bipinnate 
leaves and stout, prickly stems. A. pentaphylla, often called Acan- 
thopanax, is a dwarf shrub, with small palmate leaves and does 
well in shade. They are useful for permanent positions where a 
sub-tropical effect is desired. 

Propagation. Take roots and cut them into pieces about 
3 inches in length and start them during Spring, in sand or moss. 

AUCUBA. A dwarf, evergreen shrub belonging, to the Dog- 
wood family. It is one of the most desirable evergreens for the 
warmer parts of the country. (Also discussed on p. 67.) Among 
the better known kinds are A. japonlca aurea, A. j. latimaculata, 
A. j. macro phylla, A. j. ovata, A. j. limbata and A. j. pygmaa 
sulphurea. Some of the varieties of this plant are almost as hand- 
some as the Crotons for decorative work, and as a berry bearing 
plant it has not had the attention it deserves. The sexes are on 
separate plants. They flower early in Spring. A branch of the 
staminate plant, when the pollen is in suitable condition, if care- 
fully shaken over the pistillate flowers on a calm, sunny day, will 
almost certainly insure a crop of the large, bright red berries. In 
favorable situations the berries last in good condition through the 
following Winter. While frequently hurt by late frosts in this 
locality, it is only the imperfectly ripened ends of the previous 
season's shoots which suffer. 

Propagation. In the Fall those shoots which are likely to be 
injured by frost make good material for cuttings. They may 
be made quite large; pieces 8 or 10 inches long will root easily in the 
cold propagating house. The roots emitted from the cuttings are 
thick and easily broken, and if left for any length of time in the 
sand bed, or boxes, after the roots are about 2 inches long, they 
are difficult to handle successfully. 

AZALEA. The gardener calls all Rhododendrons which shed 
their leaves. Azaleas. The two earUest to bloom are A. canadense, 
the Rhodora, a rose purple sort, and A. Vaseyi, a pale rose with 
large dots in upper petals; then follows A. nudiflora, the Pinxter 
Flower, which bears flowers ranging from white to deep pink. In 
May and June we have the Flame Azalea, A. calendulaceum, with 
flame-colored flowers. Somewhat later, June and July, the White 
Swamp Honeysuckle, A. viscosum, is in bloom; although called white 
this species often has a blush tint. A group of hybrids, .4. mollis, 
or the Ghent Azaleas, are in great popularity; the colors are superb. 



HARDY SHRUBS 297 

In the greenhouse is cultivated the Indian Azalea, A. indica, which 
is discussed on page 68. Allied to the latter species is A. amoena, 
a rosy purple flowering sort which is usually double. 

Propagation and Culture. Most of the Azaleas have been 
imported from Europe, because the climate of the United States 
is rather too hot and labor is expensive. However, the Azaleas 
may be raised from seeds, cuttings, grafting and layers. The seeds 
are sown in a mixture of sand and peat, in the Spring. They re- 
quire plenty of moisture supplied as a syringe and a good circulation 
of air. Cuttings should be taken about the beginning of November; 
at that time numerous strong shoots with small rosettes of leaves 
on the ends will be found above the main body of the bush. These 
make the best cuttings; lengths of about 4 inches will suflfice. They 
should be inserted close together in the sand bed of a cool house. 
The roots which they emit are exceedingly fine. Previous to pot- 
ting, if watered well before lifting, a small quantity of sand will 
adhere to the roots. The plants should be potted in the smallest- 
sized pots, using finely sifted sandy soil, with at least half of its bulk 
leafmold or peat. 

The finer and slower growing kinds are propagated by grafting 
on the strong growing varieties, and also on some species of Rho- 
dodendron. This is done in Winter and also when the growth is 
ripe later in the year. Some of the strong growing forms, especially 
those having single white and red flowers, are, however, hardy, and 
for planting out they may be propagated by cuttings. Plants raised 
in this way have a more natural appearance than when grown as 
standards, in which shape they are usually imported. The cuttings 
should be put in the sand of a cool propagating house by the middle 
of August; the roots being small will need fine soil of a peaty nature 
for the first potting. In this operation use clean thumb pots; put 
the pots in water before using so as to absorb as much as possible. 
Instead of placing the rooted cutting in the middle of the pot put 
it at the side; this will facilitate rooting. At the next potting it is 
an easy matter to have the plant in the center of the pot. In plant- 
ing out of doors it must be remembered that they will not stand 
drought, so they must not be left to take care of themselves. The 
soil should be prepared to a depth of at least 18 inches. It may 
consist of loam, leafmold and sand, in about equal parts. The 
plants should be planted moderately close together so that the foli- 
age will keep the sun from the soil; but to insure moisture they should 
always be mulched during Spring and Summer, and frequently 



298 PLANT CULTURE 

watered during dry spells. The plants are easily transplanted in 
the Spring or Autumn. Deep hoeing should never be practiced, as 
the roots are almost certain to be injured thereby. 

BERBERIS (Barberry). B. vulgaris is the common Barberry » 
It has rather ornamental yellow flowers, in May or June, followed 
by bright red fruits, which remain on the bush during Winter. 
There are numerous varieties; one named B. v. atro purpurea has 
purple-colored leaves. This is the sort which is now known to 
carry the wheat rust and its use is discouraged. A Japanese 
species, B. Thunhergii, grows from 3 to 6 feet high and 
is by far the most ornamental of the deciduous kinds. It 
is very symmetrical, seldom needing the aid of the knife to 
keep it in shape. It loses its foliage in the late Fall, but during 
the Winter and up till the time when the new leaves 
expand, the bushes usually present a very pretty appearance be- 
cause of the small but very numerous fruits. Another species, 
B. Wilson(B,\S2Ln ornamental hedge plant, succeeding in somewhat 
sheltered positions. B. amurensis, B. Regeliana and B. sinensis are 
also good deciduous kinds. B. stenophylla has small, simple leaves. 
B. acuminata, a new evergreen species, has a decidedly novel appear- 
ance. B. (Mahonia) pinnata thrives here only in sheltered positions. 
B. {M.)japonica,B. (M.) nepalensis and ^. {M.) aquijolimn are all 
well known evergreen shrubs, thriving in this section even in the 
most exposed positions. The flowers are produced early in the 
season, followed by handsome clusters of fruits which ripen during 
the latter part of May and June. 

Propagation. The readiest method of increase is by seed, 
v;hich should be collected when the leaves fall, gently rubbed be- 
tween the hands to bruise the covering, and sown in sandy loam, 
in shallow boxes, making the soil firm. If placed in the cool green- 
house they will germinate uniformly, and by the end of the first 
year they should be over foot high. 

BUDDLEIA (Butterfiy Bush. Summer Lilac). Of recent 
years the various Buddleias have become very popular. The grace- 
ful spikes of fragrant lilac flowers are borne upon the wandlike 
branches serving to make the Buddleia one of the handsomest Sum- 
mer blooming shrubs. The species are not quite hardy in the north, 
but if such species as B. David ii (variabilis), B. Veitchiana, B. 
japotiica and 5. intermedia are well protected with leaves around the 
base of the plants, the roots will survive the Winter and send up 
blooming stems in the Spring. 



HARDY SHRUBS 299 

Culture. Give them a well enriched soil and plant in the sun. 
Strong roots will make rampant growth and huge plants in one 
year. 

Propagation. Buddleias produce seed which may be sown in 
the greenhouse in February. Summer softwood cuttings will root 
in the greenhouse. Hardwood cuttings may be taken in the Autumn 
and furnish one method of retaining stock of the Buddleias. Such 
hardwood cuttings must be stored in a cellar out of danger from frost. 

BUXUS (Boxwood). The commonest species is B. semper- 
virens. It is a shrub used extensively for topiary work; the plants 
being clipped to resemble roosters, dogs, peacocks, and automobiles. 
There is seemingly a demand for these things. When the Boxwood 
is planted in suitable soil, it makes a very ornamental plant. In 
Europe plants only a few inches in height are very much used in 
bordering walks. It is always clipped about twice a year to keep it 
within bounds. There are narrow leaved and broad leaved forms 
in the United States. For shelter hedges there is nothing more 
desirable than this plant. The Buxus flowers very early in the 
season, and while the male flowers predominate over the 
female flowers they are seldom seen. 

Propagation. When the plants get about 6 inches in height 
they are used for propagation. This merely consists of tearing old 
dwarf plants to pieces and placing them in position to border the 
walks. All the forms, however, are very easily raised from cut- 
tings in a cool propagating house. 

CALLICARPA. The species of this genus are grown solely on 
account of their beautiful fruits, which are quite small, but pro- 
duced in abundance. The color of the fruit is bright violet. C. 
purpurea and C. japonica are the two species most worthy of cul- 
tivation. In northern latitudes the branches are apt to get winter 
killed, but new growths are produced, and these flower and fruit 
the same season. C. japonica is the hardiest of all the species. 

Propagation. The propagation is easiest accomplished by 
taking cuttings of the half ripe wood and rooting them indoors. 

CALYCANTHUS (Sweet Scented Shrub). Of this genus 
there are three well known species — C. occidental is, C. fertilis and 
C.floridus, the latter being the most fragrant variety and the most 
common in gardens. There are several varieties, varying in height 
from 3 to 12 feet; C. occidentalis being the tallest and also the most 
tender, sometimes suffers severely in this locality. All of the species 



300 



PLANT CULTURE 




Calycanthus floridus 

Courtesy Henry A. Dreer, Inc., 

Philadelphia, Pa. 



are prized by some on account 
of the vinous fragrance of the 
flowers, which are dark claret 
in color. 

Propagation. C. occide^i- 
talis and C. floridus bear seeds 
freely which take only a short 
time in germinating after being 
sown. The seeds may be kept 
in their capsules during Winter 
and sown in a frame during 
the first half of April. The 
seed leaves are very large, dis- 
turbing the surface soil a good 
deal in unfolding, therefore the 
seed should be sown thinly. 
The seedlings may be allowed 
to remain a year in their 
germinating quarters before 
being transplanted. Plants 
are also secured by layering the branches. 

CARYOPTERIS (Blue Spiraea). This is unmistakably one 
of the finest shrubs introduced in recent years. C. incana {Masta- 
canthus) was, and is, sometimes called the Blue Spiraea, but it has 
no relation to that genus, as it is a near relative of the Chaste Tree 
(Vitex) which is among those plants comprising the Verbena family. 
It is one of the last shrubs to come into flower, opening out about 
the first half of September and lasting several weeks. The flowers 
are produced in fair-sized heads in the axils of the leaves on the 
shoots made during Summer; the color is bluish purple or white. 
Caryopteris has been tried for several years, and in Northern sec- 
tions, owing to its being killed to the ground in Winter, should 
there be treated more as an herbaceous plant than as a 
shrub. In the latitude of Philadelphia and favorable positions 
farther north it has come out all right through recent Winters. In 
Washington bushes of it are now 6 feet high. 

Propagation. The propagation can be carried on at any time 
during the Summer or Fall, preferably during the latter season, for 
which preparations should be made some time in advance by cutting 
back some of the stronger shoots to induce them to send out side 
shoots. The blind wood can be used during the flowering period. 



HARDY SHRUBS 301 

As soon as the cuttings are ready for removal from the sand they 
can either be potted or boxed and stored in frames for the Winter. 

CERCIS (Red Bud. Judas Tree). A species, Cercis chinensis 
(japonica), has lighter colored and larger flowers than either the 
American species, C. canadensis, or the European and Asiatic species, 
C. siliqiiastrum. Some of the original plants brought to this country 
from Japan are in the parks at Washington, and seldom does a 
season pass in which the branches are not completely hidden by the 
flowers. 

Propagation. From seeds, layering and green cuttings started 
in greenhouse. 

CH^NOMELES. The common species of this genus, hardy 
in the North, is C. Maulei, a rather dwarf shrub with reddish flow- 
ers produced in great abundance, glossy leaves borne on rather pro- 
cumbent, spiny branches. C. M. superba has the flowers of a 
deeper shade of red. C. M. tricolor has the leaves variegated with 
pink and white. 

CHIMONANTHUS (Calycanthus praecox). The flowers of 
this shrub are produced on the wood of the previous year's growth 
long before the leaves are developed. In this locality it often blooms 
during the end of January. It is not reliably hardy north of Wash- 
ington. The species, C. fragrans, and its variety C /. grandiflora \ 
are grown solely on account of the wonderful perfume emitted by 
the rather inconspicuous flowers. Cut in the bud state they open 
out well if kept indoors with the stems in water. 

Propagation. It is a trifle slow to increase from cuttings of the* 
ripened wood, doing better from the half ripe wood, with the fohage 
attached. Large plants are secured in a short period by layering 
in Midsummer. 

CHIONANTHUS (Fringe Tree). The native species, C. 
virginica, of this shrub sometimes grows to a height of 30 feet; but 
specimens will give an abundance of bloom when only a few feet high. 
The flowers are disposed in drooping panicles, are pure white in 
color and very graceful. 

Propagation. It is raised from seed and by budding on 
stocks of Fraxinus ornus. 

CISTUS (Rock Rose). An erect, very handsome shrub, with 
large purple flowers somewhat resembling a single Rose. C. villosus, 
one of the hardier species, can be grown as far north as Washington. 



302 



PLANT CULTURE 




Cercis chinensis (japonica) 



HARDY SHRUBS 303 

Propagation. Cuttings root freely, under cool treatment, late 
in Summer. 

CITRUS. As a dwarfing stock C. trifoliata is used extensively 
for budding and grafting the different varieties of Oranges, and for 
a hedge plant, one that will make an almost impenetrable barrier, 
scarcely any other subject will answer so well. But its usefulness is 
yet by no means exhausted. As an ornamental shrub it makes quite 
an effective appearance early in the season, before the leaves appear, 
when covered with its pure white flowers, which are usually an inch 
across. In late Summer and Fall the branches are loaded down 
with its golden fruit. During some seasons this species bears two 
crops of flowers — the first in Spring, the second along about the 
month of August. The second crop of fruit fails to ripen before 
cool weather. 

Propagation. Its propagation is effected by seeds, of which 
there is a plentiful supply; sown in the Fall out of doors, every 
seed will germinate after good weather sets in. 

CLERODENDRON. A very handsome, free-flowering Japan- 
ese species, C. trichotomum, thoroughly hardy in the Middle Atlantic 
States; although annually killed to the ground farther north, it 
makes strong growths, and on these it blooms freely. The flowers 
are white with a dark red calyx. C. fcetidum is not as hardy as the 
above. The crowns, if they can be saved, will flower splendidly 
from herbaceous stems. It is one of the best shrubs for the Southern 
States. It sends up many shoots from underground stems. 

Propagation. Propagation is accomplished by cutting up and 
sprouting the roots. The plant seems to delight in rather dry soil. 
In dry weather, when other shrubs suffer for want of water, this 
one is always fresh and green; but probably this is caused by the 
roots going deep into the soil. To increase C. fcetidum in quantity 
the roots and underground stems should be dug up, cut in small 
pieces, and started indoors early in Spring. 

CORNUS (Dogwood). In the Southern States, C.florida, the 
Flowering Dogwood, grows sometimes 30 to 40 feet high; farther 
North it is a shrub 10 to 15 feet high. The flowers are small, green- 
ish yellow; the bracts are very large and pure white. It blooms in 
early Spring before the leaves are developed. In Autumn a well 
fruited bush, with its red foliage, is a most beautiful object. C. /. 
rubra is a rosy pink flowered variety of recent introduction, well 
worthy of cultivation; both it and the type should be planted in 



304 



PLANT CULTURE 




HARDY SHRUBS . 305 

well-drained situations. C. Kousa, a Japanese species, resembling 
C. florida, is superior in prolificacy of bloom. C. sanguinea has dark 
red branches — a very effective plant among other shrubs. C. 
racemosa {candidissima), C. mas and C alha are commonly grown, 
the first for its flowers, the second principally for its fruits, while 
the last has striking red twigs through the Winter. C. alternifolia 
is a handsome, small tree with the branches in tiers, more or less 
regular. 

Propagation. Seeds germinate the second year. The sorts 
such as C. alha propagate by hardwood cuttings. The varieties of 
C. florida are budded or grafted upon seedHngs of the type. 

COTONEASTER. A dense, low growing, evergreen shrub. 
Cotoneaster microphylla has small leaves and bright red fruits that 
remain on the plants the best part of Winter. C. Simonsii is almost 
evergreen and perfectly hardy south of New York; its bright red 
fruits are the main feature of the plant. 

Propagation. They are propagated best by taking cuttings, 
about 6 inches long, and rooting them indoors in August or Sep- 
tember. 

CRATi^GUS (Hawthorn). There are numerous American 
species cultivated as shrubs, or dwarf trees, the best of which are 
C. coccinea, the scarlet fruited Thorn, and C. crus-galli, the Cockspur 
Thorn. Owing to their bright red fruits, often remaining a long 
time after the leaves fall, they are valuable decorative subjects. 
C. oxyacantha is the English Hav/thorn. Varieties of this species 
make very symmetrical specimens. They are more fioriferous than 
the American kinds. Some of the best are C 0. alba-plena, double 
white; C. 0. punicea- plena, double scarlet; C. 0. hicolor, pink, edged 
with white; C. 0. rosea, pink with white claw. C. pyracantha is the 
Evergreen Thorn. The fruits are the principal decorative feature 
of this shrub; they are of a beautiful scarlet color, remaining on the 
branches during Winter. C. p. Lelandi has bright, orange-scarlet 
fruit — a very ornamental and quick-growing variety. 

Propagation. They are increased by budding or grafting upon 
seedHngs of the type. The seeds do not germinate until the second 
year from sowing, consequently they should be mulched in Summer 
to prevent drying out. 

CRYPTOMERIA (Japan Cedar). With us this is one of the 
most satisfactory of the evergreen coniferae. It looks well in a 
5-inch pot, and from that to a specimen 30 feet high. It varies very 



3o6 



PLANT CULTURE 




Cryptomeria japonica 



HARDY SHRUBS 307 

much, there being nearly a dozen well defined varieties. In the 
New England States it is not thoroughly at home as a tree, and this 
condition is not to be met with until we get as far South as Mary- 
land. As a pot grown plant C. japonica is very little inferior to 
the costly Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria excelsa) and it can be 
gotten up in quantity at less than one-tenth the cost of the latter. 

Propagation. Cuttings root well if put in by the end of Oc- 
tober, in a cool sand bed. They can be inserted large enough so that 
by the middle of May following they will be ready to be shifted into 
5-inch pots. Although plants raised from cuttings make the best 
furnished plants for using in pots, seedlings, if grown on without a 
check, furnish plants within a year from sowing, which will not look 
too small in 5-inch pots. The seed should be gathered as soon as 
ripe, which is usually about October 15, else there is danger of it 
being lost through the cones bursting open, the seed falling out 
through a little disturbance of the branches. For sowing, prepare 
shallow boxes of firmly pressed soil — loam, leafmold and sand in 
equal proportions will suit. Sow the seed, not too thickly, and 
cover with half an inch of screened leaf soil and sand; put near the 
glass in a temperate house. They will germinate the first half of 
January, and can remain in the boxes, if not sown too thickly, 
until the end of May. Pot ofif singly or three in a 3-inch pot at first, 
using sandy soil. Keep in a growing temperature until they are 
too large for small pots. The plants will stand in coldframes during 
the Winter in most places without harm, other than a slightly yellow- 
ish tinge to the leaves, but where they are wanted to make market- 
able plants in as short a time as possible from the seedling stage, 
they should be kept in a cool house where, if suitable rooting condi- 
tions are provided, they will make rapid progress during the Win- 
ter months. 

CYDONIA (Japanese Quince). These plants are among our 
most desirable hardy shrubs, coming into bloom along with For- 
sythia and Jasminum nudiflorum. This plant is now frequently 
classed as a Chaenomeles. There is a form wit& variegated leaves 
and pale flowers, also a pure white and double red. All varieties 
are very susceptible to scale. 

Propagation. The common form will give good flowering 
specimens from seed. The finer varieties may be grafted on seed- 
lings of the type. Cuttings of the ripe wood taken in the Fall and 
stored till Spring are rooted successfully. It is also raised from cut- 
tings of the roots, from suckers and by layering. 



3o8 PLANT CULTURE 

DABCECIA. The White Irish Heath, Dahoecia cantahrica, is a 
neglected dwarf shrub; it should be planted more largely because it 
sends up its rather large, pure white flowers in great profusion and 
will repay efforts to cultivate it in a cool house. It needs peat and 
plenty of it mixed with silver sand. At Washington it blooms in a 
cool house the year round. It is a most charming plant. 

Propagation. It is very easy to propagate from cuttings 
placed in a cool house almost any time of the year. It may also be 
propagated by seeds sown in a mixture of peat, loam and sand. 

DAPHNE. Few species of this fragrant flowering genus are 
hardy in Northern latitudes. Daphne Cneorum is a hardy, dwarf, 
evergreen trailing shrub growing not more than a foot high. It 
flowers in April and May; the color is dull pink. It makes a neat 
symmetrical plant, with very sweet scented flowers. It is often in- 
jured by the cold because it vegetates so early. D. Blagayana is 
also a desirable hardy trailing species, not so well known as the 
above. D. Mezereum, a hardy deciduous species, is sometimes used 
for forcing, more on account of the fragrant flowers than for their 
appearance. D. odora, D. o. marginata and D. o. alba make very 
satisfactory growth in sheltered positions out of doors here, but it 
may be stated that the plants were imported direct from Japan. 
Greenhouse grown plants have been tried in similar situations with 
unfavorable results. D. odora is grown indoors and is discussed on 
p. 109. D. pontica and D. Laureola are perfectly hardy in 
Washington, but they do best with partial shade in Summer. The 
last named is scentless. 

Propagation. D. Cneorum is rather slow to increase from cut- 
tings. The best method of propagation is to layer the trailing 
branches in Spring, making an incision, or tongue, in the under part 
of the stem. Have the cut part at least 2 inches under the soil; se- 
cure with wooden pegs; press the soil firmly over it, and cover with 
sphagnum to insure moisture. Leave until the following Spring 
before separating from the parent plant. D. Mezereum is raised 
from seed, and its forms grafted on seedlings of the type. 

DEUTZIA. The Deutzias are all valuable because of their 
showy flowers. A free growing and handsome flowered species, 
D. scahra, often grows 8 feet tall and bears white or blush flowers on 
short growths made on the previous season's wood. D. s. crenata 
is a form with smoother leaves than the type. There are several 
other varieties with double flowers more or less tinged with rose. 
D. c. Pride of Rochester has the flowers large and double white. 



HARDY SHRUBS 309 

In the Northern States they should be planted in protected situa- 
tions. These plants make splendid growth in tubs, and are easily 
forced into bloom for the decoration of large conservatories. D. 
gracilis has never been known to suffer from cold weather in this 
latitude, and it is said to stand the Winter, when in sheltered posi- 
tions, in the Northern States. As it blooms on short growths made 
on the wood of the previous season, the plant would be of no serv- 
ice where its branches are apt to get winter killed. It is one of 
the grandest of our dwarf flowering shrubs, blooming in Washing- 
ton from the first to the middle of May, and growing from 2 to 3 
feet high. It is well suited for planting in cemeteries. For forcing 
into bloom, it is an easy subject. The plants may be lifted from 
the open ground as late as the weather will permit. They lift with 
a mass of fine fibrous roots, and should be potted before getting a 
chance to dry. Place them in a deep frame till wanted; put them 
in heat very gradually, else there will be a tendency to have flow- 
ers without foliage. D. Lemoinei, a hybrid between D. gracilis and 
D. parviflora, is also a good subject for forcing and is more vigorous 
than D. gracilis. 

Propagation. These shrubs are easily propagated from green 
wood cuttings taken shortly after the plant is done blooming. Dull 
weather should be chosen for the operation, as then the cuttings 
stand an almost certain chance of rooting. Make the pieces about 
4 inches long; avoid the thick, succulent growths, taking only those 
which have most substance to them. Put closely together in the 
sand bed of a cool house, or frame, and shade to prevent w^ilting. As 
soon as rooted, put in boxes or small pots until roots start in 
the soil, then plant in rows outside, where they will make bushy 
httle plants before Autumn. The next year after that in which 
they are struck from cuttings will give plants large enough to go 
into 6-inch pots for forcing. They are easily propagated also by 
hardwood cuttings taken after the leaves fall from the current 
year's growths; they should be tied in bunches and heeled in moss 
in a coldframe. In early Spring they are put in boxes of sand, 
with a little soil at the bottom, and kept in a greenhouse. When 
rooted they are hardened off and planted out in rows, where they 
will make fair sized plants before the growing season is over. They 
may also be propagated from seed. 

DIERVILLA (Weigela). D. rosea is the best known of the 
species; it blooms in May and June. As it is not particular as to 
soil or location the species and its varieties should be in every col- 



3IO PLANT CULTURE 

ection. D. r.florihunda has dark red flowers with whitish stamens — 
a very prolific bloomer. D. r. Desboisii has deep rose colored flow- 
ers. D. grandiflora is a tall growing plant with large leaves and 
flowers. There are several varieties with white, red and pink 
flowers; some of these give scattering blooms throughout the Sum- 
mer and Autumn months. D. rosea and its forms force very easily. 

Propagation. In its propagation, cuttings of the dormant 
wood root quickly if put in gentle heat about the end of March, or 
the growing tips may be used in Summer when kept in a humid 
atmosphere during the rooting process. 

ELi^AGNUS. There are several species of this genus which are 
widely planted. Among the best of these are E. argentea, which 
grows over lo feet in height and produces very fragrant, small 
flowers; E. angustijolia {hortensis), 15 to 20 feet, and has silvery 
white branches; E. pungens var. Simoni, an evergreen species of 
great value, hardy near New York City. E. mulliflora (longipes) 
has edible fruits known as Gumi Berries. 

Propagation. They are increased from seeds; the variegated 
forms are propagated from cuttings placed in the sand of a cool 
house in Autumn. 

ERICA (Heath). These are attractive, low growing shrubs 
useful for bordering those of taller growth. Erica vagans, the Cornish 
Heath, is an early kind, as is also E. tnediterranea; E. cinerea and 
E. tetralix are later in blooming. Calluna vulgaris (Heather), with 
the double and white flowered kinds, are all good; they need peaty 
soil, or loam mixed with an abundance of leafmold and sand, and 
should not be allowed to get dust dry at the roots while in a young 
state. 

Propagation. The cuttings taken from the tips of the current 
year's growth should be put in during late Summer. Few florists 
have just the proper facilities for rooting these and kindred plants 
The structure, a cool frame, should face north and will be all the 
better if in the shade of a house. The idea is to have the atmos- 
phere while rooting as moist and as cool as possible. 

EUONYMUS (Spindle Tree). Up till within a few years 
E. japonicus was among the finest of our evergreen shrubs in this 
section, but owing to the ravages of a small scale insect the plant is 
now comparatively seldom seen and will only thrive where severe 
measures are taken to keep it clear of the pest. Several forms have 
very handsome variegations; theirnamesare:£. ^*. latijolius-aiireust 



HARDY SHRUBS . 311 

E.j. aureo-marginatus , E. j . alho-marginatus and E.j. latijolius-alhus. 
They bloom about the end of July and usually ripen large quanti- 
ties of seeds. E. radicans variegata, also an evergreen, is usually best 
known in its place in the shrubbery, but it is extensively used for a 
very different purpose, and that is as a carpet bedder; especially 
valuable for this purpose is the variety vegeta. For this work, to 
fill even a small space, a great many plants are necessary. In public 
parks and gardens the same plants may be used several seasons, or 
the growing points may be rooted afresh each Fall. 

There are several interesting deciduous sorts, namely, E. alata, 
the Winged Spindle Tree with corky winged branches ;£. americana, 
the Strawberry Bush, so named because of its pinkish fruits; E. 
europcea, which becomes almost a tree; and E. atro purpurea, the 
Burning Bush, with the winged scarlet fruits. 

Propagation. The sorts are readily propagated from seeds or 
from ripened wood taken in the Fall. With E. radicans the shoots 
are collected in bundles of 50 or 100 together, and with a strong 
knife they are cut to a uniform length of 4 or 5 inches. The lower 
leaves are stripped and the cuttings put very thickly together in 
boxes of sand, and placed in a cool frame, where they root freely. 

EXOCHORDA (Pearl Bush). The only fault with Exochor- 
das is their short blooming season, which is during the month of 
May, but they are exceedingly handsome while they last. E. race- 
mosa {grandijlora) is the commonest species and although sent out 
in the early seventies it is still by no means common, owing to its 
propagation by the usual methods being somewhat difficult. 

Propagation. In several localities it has ripened quantities 
of seed for several years, and when seed is obtainable no difficulty 
is experienced in raising plants, as the seeds germinate very evenly. 
Severe pruning, such as this plant is likely to get from cultivators, 
on account of the desirable sprays for cut flowers, evidently works 
against the setting of seed, for the specimens which have borne 
abundant crops of seeds in this locality are those which have never 
been touched by the knife. This plant was sent out under the 
name of Spircea grandijlora, which clings to it yet in some places. 

FORSYTH! A (Golden Bell). Japanese shrubs, usually 
covered with bright yellow flowers very early in Spring. There are 
two well known kinds in cultivation. F. suspensa has long, drooping 
branches, while F. viridissima is more erect in growth. Both kinds 
flower before the leaves make their appearance, a day or two of 
warm sunshine being sufficient to bring them out. The plants should 



312 PLANT CULTURE 

be pruned only after they are done flowering, as the flowers are pro- 
duced directly on the wood made the preceding Summer. 

Propagation. No shrubs are easier to increase. All that is 
necessary is to cut the previous season's growths into lengths of 
8 or lo inches and heel them in deeply in a protected piece of 
ground, covering during hard weather with leaves or loose litter. 
November is the month for this operation. The cuttings will also 
root in a very short time, if put in moderate heat in March. 

GORDONIA (Loblolly Bay). These plants thrive in the 
District of Columbia when given a deep, sandy soil and well supplied 
with moisture. They produce their large, CameUia like flowers 
from July till frost. G. alatamaha (pubescens) andC Lasianthus are 
the species grown. The last named has pure white flowers, about 
4 inches in diameter. 

Propagation. They are propagated by layering, allowing the 
layers to be well rooted before removing. 

HALESIA (Snowdrop Tree). These shrubs, or small trees, 
are in full flower before the leaves are fully developed. In this 
section H. Meehani forms a very symmetrical, small sized tree, 
H. diptera and H. rarolina {tetraptera) differ from each other in 
the number of wdngs to the fruit. 

Propagation. All of the kinds are raised from seeds, which 
sometimes remain in the ground over a year before germinating. 
Seedlings of //. Carolina are used as stocks for the beautiful flowered 
Japanese Sty rax. 

HIBISCUS (Shrubby Althaea. Rose of Sharon). A decidu- 
ous shrub of easy culture, H. syriacus, needs very little attention 
after being planted beyond an occasional thinning out of the 
branches. Most of the numerous varieties are very neat and com- 
pact, growing from 5 to 12 feet in height. They bloom late in the 
season when most of the other shrubs are out of flower. H. s. totus- 
albus is a useful single white variety and flowers when very small. 
H. s. camelliceflorus is double white, with pink throat. H. s. Boule 
de Feu, double, violet colored flowers. Other good double-flowered 
forms are H. s.Leopoldii flore pleno, U. s. rubra pleno, H. s. purpurea 
flore pleno and H. s. Jeanne d'Arc. 

Propagation. The double flowered varieties root easily from 
cuttings of the dormant wood, in early Spring, or from green wood 
in Summer. The cuttings from the ripened wood should be made 



HARDY SHRUBS 313 

in the Fall and heeled in out of the reach of frost in moderately dry 
sand. They may be put in rows in the open as soon as weather per- 
mits, or they may be rooted indoors early and planted out later. 
Several of the single varieties come true from seed, of which an 
abundant crop is usually produced. 

HYDRANGEA. There are three species of garden Hydrangeas. 
H. opuloides, which includes the H. hortensis, is divided into three 
groups, namely, the Japonica, the Hortensia, and the Stellata. 
There are many varieties in this group, all of which cannot withstand 
a temperature of less than 20 degrees F., except by very careful pro- 
tection. Some are cut to the ground during Winter in the latitude 
of Washington, D. C, but they never get injured permanently. 
H. 0. Lindleyana and H. o. stellata prolifera usually survive the 
Winter with the stems several feet above ground. These plants form 
very large specimens, and are very handsome when in bloom, chang- 
ing in color, as the flowers mature, from greenish white to a deep rose. 
The central flowers are fertile, the outer ones sterile. H. 0. japonica 
has one or two very handsomely variegated forms. Cuttings of 
these are apt to lose their leaves in the sand bed, but in this condi- 
tion they will root, making young growths simultaneously with the 
rooting process; and if they are carefully put in very small pots 
they will make fair sized plants within a year. But they must be 
kept in pots during this time, as the roots are much weaker than 
those of the green leaved plants. The variety known as H. 0. aiirea- 
variegata is probably the handsomest of our hardy plants. H. 0. 
Otaksa has large heads of rose colored flowers. \H. 0. ramidis-coc- 
cineis has dark colored stems and pink flowers. H. 0. Thomas Hogg 
has pure white flowers. Cuttings will root any time after the shoots 
are moderately firm. Where wood is scarce the large stems may be 
split down the middle with a leaf to each piece. Where pruning is 
necessary it should be done early in the season, to throw vigor into 
the shoots springing from the base of the plant. (See page 130 for 
indoor culture of this group.) 

H. paniculata grandiflora is one of the best of the late blooming 
shrubs. The flowers are creamy white, in large, pyramidal heads, 
terminating the current year's growths. It comes into bloom, ac- 
cording to locality, from July to September. It is grown both in 
bush and standard form. The plants should be severely cut back 
in the early Spring. H. arhorescens, and its form Hills of Snow, 
are well known Hydranges which bloom in June and are daintier 
and more dwarf than H. panicvlata. 



314 



PLANT CULTURE 




HARDY SHRUBS 315 

E. quercijolia, the Oak-leaved Hydrangea, from the Southern 
States, opens its large pyramidal heads of flowers late in the season 
and is valuable on that account alone; but the handsome foliage and 
its spreading, graceful habit combined make it a most desirable 
shrub. It will thrive either in partial shade or full sun. 

Propagation. Green cuttings may be taken during the first 
part of July. Select a dull day for the operation. Take those 
shoots which are not too robust and only the ends; shorten back 
the leaves one-third and put in sand, in a cool, humid atmosphere. 
Cuttings of the dormant wood may be made 8 or 10 inches long and 
inserted, either in the Fall, or kept heeled in, or buried in a cold- 
frame during Winter, putting them in rows in the open as soon as 
weather will permit. Cover thinly with spent hops, or old manure, 
in either case. 

In propagating H. quercifolia, the smallest of the ripened shoots 
should be taken with the leaves attached, placing the stems deep in 
the sand bed of the cool propagating house. If put in about the 
middle of October, most of them will root by the end of February. 
Suckers, with small roots attached, may be lifted and potted in 
Spring. The most certain method is to layer the lower branches, 
allowing them to remain at least a year before removing. Seeds 
are not always obtainable, but they germinate readily in sandy 
soil covered with finely screened sphagnum moss. 

HYPERICUM (St. John's Wort). H, Kalmianum is the 
species most commonly seen in cultivation; it thrives in almost any 
soil and in a sunny position. H. patulum, a Japanese species, forms 
a bush from 4 to 6 feet in height, in favorable situations. H. 
Moserianinn is not so tall as H. palulum, but the flowers are larger; 
both of them are apt to be hurt in Winter in exposed situations. 
//. calycinum is one of the handsomest and most useful of the dwarf 
evergreen shrubs. It forms dense clumps of growths, not over a foot 
high, with very large, bright, orange yellow flowers; much used for 
the front portions of shrubberies. In parts of the country where 
the Winters are too severe it is easily protected by branches of 
evergreens, or rough stable litter. 

Propagation. Most sorts root readily from Summer cuttings; 
the creeping sorts such as H. calycinum increase easily by division. 
Seeds also grow readily. 

ILEX (Holly). /. Aqiiifolium, the English Holly, is, unfor- 
tunately, tender in the Northern States. Philadelphia is said to be 
the northern limit of its hardiness. Around Washington it is per- 



3i6 PLANT CULTURE 

fectly hardy, but it is much shorter lived than our native species, 
/. opaca. Except with comparatively small specimens of the 
English species on which the fruit is in larger clusters and brighter 
colored, the native one is to be preferred for specimen plants. 
Several specimens in the parks here are over 40 feet high, and not 
much inferior as berry bearing pianis to the English one. /. opaca Is 
very common in a wild state in the woods here. They are generally 
found in the shade of other trees, conditions which make them 
scraggy looking. When grown in the open, in prepared ground, 
their appearance is quite altered; the branches grow close together, 
and the outline of the tree is rather conical, not spreading as in 
/. Aquijolium. There is a variety of /. Aquifolium with yellow fruit 
which is desirable. There are also many kinds with curiously 
formed leaves, not so popular here as they are in Europe. Ilex 
Aquifolium flowers on the growths of the preceding Summer; /. opaca 
flowers later, and on the current year's wood. 

/. cornuta, from China, is a very satisfactory species, but the 
berries, of which there is a plentiful supply, do not ripen until after 
the time when they would be most welcome. It would be an inter- 
esting experiment were some of our Southern woodsmen to plant 
the Chinese Holly (/, cornuta) for the sake of its berried branches 
as a Christmas Holly along with the English (/. Aquijolium) and 
the native evergreen kinds, /. opaca and /. Cassine. The last named 
is the prettiest of the three, but both berries and leaves are small; 
the berries shrivel up too quickly and sometimes fall off before they 
can be used. /. cornuta fruits more freely than any of the other 
species. In the vicinity of Washington, by the middle of Decem- 
ber, the berries are only beginning to turn red. Whether this fault 
would appear where the flowers expand earlier in the season it cannot 
be said. A most noticeable feature in connection with the Japanese 
plant, the mentioning of which may be of use to some one some 
day, is that it bears a much more abundant crop of berries when 
male plants of the English species are in the immediate neighbor- 
hood. The hardiness of this plant is about the same as that of the 
EngHsh kinds, probably a Httle more tender. It can be grown as 
far north as Philadelphia. In Washington it stands the most severe 
Winters without hurt, and grows much stronger ihan the English 
species. In transplanting the evergreen Hollies the leaves should 
be removed. 

Propagation. The Enghsh species takes well on stocks of /. 
opaca. The operation should be done indoors either before growth 



HARDY SHRUBS 317 

is active in Spring, or after the wood is fairly ripe in August. /. 
opaca is more difficult to raise from seed than /. Aquifolium. The 
outer covering of the seeds of Holly is quite hard, and often they do 
not germinate the same season as sown. If sown as soon as ripe, 
in very sandy soil, and care taken to keep them from drying out 
during the dry months of Summer, they will germinate the following 
Spring. Sow the seed rather deep and cover with a mulching in 
Winter, which covering is easily removed when freezing weather is 
past. A good method is to sow in a mixture of peat and sphagnum 
moss, made quite firm, and place in a greenhouse where it will get 
the full sun, keeping the mixture moderately wet. Plants grown for 
their berries, or, in fact, for any purpose except for hedges, should 
never be selected from seedlings, as there are two kinds, one with 
the female organs, imperfectly developed, but with the stamens 
well formed bearing abundance of pollen; they are the most abun- 
dant bloomers, but do not bear fruit. The other kind has fewer 
flowers, with the pistils all well formed and quite prominent in the 
center of the flower. The stamens on the other hand seem imper- 
fect in most cases, but doubtless there is enough pollen on them to 
fertihze the flower, as fruiting plants set seed all right a long distance 
away from the pistillate plants. Therefore, cions should always 
be selected from berry bearing plants. /. cornuta, grown in com- 
pany with varieties of the EngHsh species, does not come true from 
seed. 

ITEA (Virginian Willow). The cultivated form of Ilea vir- 
ginica is much superior to plants found in the wild state. It has 
long racemes of rather pretty greenish white flowers. It usually 
grows from 2 to 4 feet high, and is a denizen of low, wet places. 
The Autumn color is a handsome red. 

Propagation. It may be propagated by division, or by seeds 
which ripen freely. 

JASMINUM (Jasmine). /. nudiflorum may be used either 
as a bush plant on the lawn or open border, for covering walls or 
arbors, or for forming a light hedge. It is not particular as to 
soil or situation, growing almost anywhere. Its flowers are pro- 
duced during mild Winters. Beginning in December, they expand 
as the weather permits till April. It is not hardy north of Washing- 
ton and is used principally as a greenhouse plant. /. hiimile 
{revolutum), J. fruticans and J.floridum, all of them yellow flowered 
species, usually stand the Winters here. /. humile is the 
hardiest. 



5i8 PLANT CULTURE 

Propagation. Effected by putting in cuttings of the ripe 
growths out of doors in Autumn. Good-sized branches can be 
layered successfully. 

JUNIPERUS (Juniper). /. sahina var. tamariscifolia is a 
most useful dwarf, trailing evergreen, seldom growing over i8 inches 
high. J. procumbens is another species of creeping habit. 

Propagation. Cuttings may be put in after the first slight 
frost. Where only a limited number of this and other evergreen 
coniferous shrubs is required, the best method, is to fix up 
a few boxes, say* about 4 inches deep, with sandy potting soil at the 
bottoms and pure sand on top; make the cuttings about 6 
inches long, half of which should be in the soil. Put them in fairly 
close together, and firm well. Give one good watering. Stand the 
boxes in the coolest part of the house under the benches; keep moder- 
ately damp, and by Spring, if the conditions have not been un- 
favorable, a goodly percentage will have rooted. If not too close 
together they will take little harm from passing the Summer in 
the same boxes. The kinds available for this method of propagation 
are Biotas, Cupressus, Thuja, Retinispora, Cephalotaxus and 
Taxus. 

KALMIA (American Laurel). The Mountain Laurel, Kalmia 
latijolia is a native evergreen shrub growing from Maine southward. 
In the Northern States it is a bush, 4 to 8 feet high. Farther south 
it is frequently met with 20 feet high. It blooms during I\lay and 
June. It is cultivated much in the same way as Rhododendrons; 
but under cultivation we seldom see the plants flourishing equal to 
those in their native habitats. K. polifolia {glauca) has lilac- 
colored flowers, and whitish under the leaves; K. angustijolia has 
purple flowers. All three are used for forcing, imported plants being 
employed for the purpose. K. angustijolia has lateral corymbs; 
in K. latijolia and K. polifolia they are terminal. Manure of any 
kind should not be used in the cultivation of these plants. 

Propagation. Raised from seeds sown in peaty soil or from 
half-ripe wood cuttings and layers. 

KERRIA (Corchorus). Kerriajaponica is a popular flowering 
shrub which is not too particular as to soil or situation. It attains a 
height of about 6 feet. There are three forms — double, known as 
t«he Globe-flower, and single flowered and variegated. They are 
all good. The variegated one keeps the color in the leaves all 
through the season just as showy as in Spring; it usually bears a 
crop of flowers, which are bright yellow, over an inch in diameter, 



HARDY SHRUBS 



319 




Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Laurel) 



320 PLANT CULTURE 

along about the first part of May. This plant is capable of being 
used as a hedge subject, as it stands clipping well. The other two 
kinds are more profuse bloomers, especially the double, which is the 
strongest growing of the three. It is seldom without flowers all 
during the Summer and Fall. It has a charming Winter effect be- 
cause of its green branches. 

Propagation. The plants are best propagated from ripe 
growths during the latter part of August, indoors. 

KCELREUTERIA. One of the very best small sized deciduous 
trees in cultivation, K. panicidata is such a tree as florists are often 
called upon to suggest for small gardens and in places unsuitable or 
too small for the development of forest trees. The Koelreuteria was 
certainly not named by anyone having its popularity in view; 
the long name is responsible for the plant not being more common. 
There is not a generally popular name under which the species is 
known, the commonest name being the Varnish Tree. The leaves 
are compound; the flowers yellow, in immense panicles, well above 
the leaves; they are produced in June and July. 

Propagation. The seed, which is somewhat like that of the 
Canna, if sown in the Fall will germinate the following Spring. 
Stock is also got up readily from root cuttings. 

LABURNUM. L. alpinum, the Scotch Laburnum, is the hardiest 
species. Where it does well it is a most beautiful shrub or small 
tree. The flowers are bright yellow, in long racemes. L. anagyroides, 
Golden Chain, bears racemes of bright yellow flowers 8 inches long 
in the Spring. 

Propagation. Seeds sown in May, or grafting upon seedlings 
are the commoner methods of propagation. 

LAGERSTRCEMIA (Crape Myrtle). Northern nurserymen, 
as a rule, do not handle this plant, owing to its being tender 
in the North. However, it is hardy enough to stand zero weather; 
but when the mercury gets much lower the plant is apt to be killed 
to the ground. In the Southern States the Crape Myrtle is perhaps 
the best known of all the flowering shrubs, as there are few, if any, 
which exceed in beauty a well developed specimen in full bloom. 
The flowers of L. indica are bright pink and are arranged in im- 
mense heads, even on one-year-old plants from seed. Large speci- 
mens grown in tubs, and kept in a cool greenhouse, can be made to 
flower two or three times during the year by cutting back the 
flowering branches. L. i. alba has pure white flowers, others are 
bright and pale shades of purple, rose and red. It is hardy in this 



HARDY SHRUBS 321 

section and is successfully grown much farther north with a slight 
protection during Winter, for if the roots are protected with a cover- 
ing of leaves, or rough litter, they will sprout vigorously and bloom 
profusely before the Summer passes. 

Propagation. It is best propagated from seed, as all the colors 
come true. Sow in boxes about the latter part of September, on 
very firm soil, covering the seeds with finely sifted, peaty soil. They 
will germinate in Spring, and if liberally treated some of them will 
bloom the same season. 

LAURUS (Bay Tree). In sheltered situations L. nohilis 
occasionally survives the Winters in this section. It sometimes 
makes growths 6 feet long in a single season; these are necessarily 
soft and ill prepared to stand severe weather. Large specimen 
plants grown as standards and pyramids are imported for decorative 
purposes. They may be had in good condition for several years by 
attention to watering and keeping them indoors when there is 
danger from frost. Owing to their restricted root room there is 
little danger of their growing out of shape. 

Propagation. Cuttings may be made of well ripened wood 
placed in a closed propagating frame. Seeds are often used. 

LIGUSTRUM (Privet). In the District of Columbia L. 
japonicmn is a very desirable evergreen species with large leaves. 
During very severe Winters the outer branches suffer considerably. 
L. ihota, especially L. i. var. Regelianmn, and L. lucidum are very 
attractive looking shrubs when in flower. L. ovalifoliiim is the so- 
called California Privet; much used as a hedge plant. The European 
privet, L. vulgare, has small flowers and foliage. L. vulgare, L. 
amurense and L. ihota are the hardiest of the species. There is a 
form of L. vulgare with glaucous leaves, the margins of which are 
bordered with white. 

Propagation. The deciduous species are among the easiest 
shrubs to root from dormant cuttings. These may be put in as soon 
as the leaves fall. The usual practice is to make cuttings about 
10 inches long, tie in bundles and bury in sand, putting the cuttings 
in rows in the open ground in early Spring. The evergreen species 
usually bear large quantities of seeds, which are slow in germinating; 
when they remain in the ground over Summer a mulching should 
be given to prevent drying. 

LONICERA (Bush Honeysuckle). The bush Honeysuckles 
furnish a group of most attractive shrubs because of their ease of 



322 



PLANT CULTURE 




HARDY SHRUBS 323 

culture, prolificacy of flowers, which are white, yellow, pink, scarlet 
and even purple, and besides many sorts produce very attractive 
berries. L. Standishii, a half evergreen blush white flowering sort, 
and L. fragrantissima, both bloom as early as March, the flowers 
being very fragrant but inconspicuous. L. Morrowii and L. Rup- 
rechtiana are both valuable on account of their handsome red fruit 
which ripens in great abundance. Most Loniceras enjoy the sun, 
but are grown in almost any situation, however; L. Xylosieum is good 
in partially shaded situations. L. Albertii is a dwarf species with small 
and narrow glaucous leaves and purplish flowers useful for rockeries. 

Propagation. Seeds sown in September will germinate the 
following Spring. The branches may be layered any time after 
mid-Summer. They may be propagated by cuttings taken any 
time during a wet spell in Summer, and rooted indoors. After this 
process they may be heeled in boxes of soil, and afterward either 
planted in rows outside or kept in a frame till Spring ; or hardwood 
cuttings may be taken in Winter. 

MAGNOLIA. All of the hardy species, some of which are 
fair-sized trees, are well worth growing. They may be divided into 
two sections — North American and Asiatic. Those of the former 
produce their flowers after the leaves are formed, while the decidu- 
ous, Asiatic species bloom for the most part on the naked wood, 
and very early in Spring. M. grandiflora, an evergreen species, 
native of the Southern States, begins blooming here about the end 
of May and continues throughout the Summer. In the region of 
Washington it is hardy, but during Winter, when the thermometer 
registers from 5 to 10 degrees below zero, the leaves are almost 
certain to fall, although without apparent injury to the plant. North 
of here it has a struggle for existence. Seeds sown in Autumn 
usually germinate in Spring. Seedlings are more vigorous than 
grafted plants, but they nevertheless take a considerable time before 
attaining a flowering size. M. macrophylla, another native, is 
known as the Great-leaved Magnolia; it is much hardier than M. 
grandiflora. The leaves are from 2 to 3 feet long, and proportion- 
ately broad. The flowers are nearly a foot across. It is easily 
raised from seed. In this locaUty its blooming period is during the 
last half of May and early in June. M. glauca, M. Thomsoniana 
and M. Watsoni are all desirable hardy shrubs. The two last named 
have larger flowers than the type. 

Among the Chinese and Japanese species and varieties, M. 
stellata is the earliest to come in bloom; it is sometimes in full flower 



324 



PLANT CULTURE 




HARDY SHRUBS 325 

here by the middle of March. M. denudata (conspicua) follows a 
week or ten days later; this is the finest of the Chinese species. As 
the large flowers expand before the foliage it is indeed a conspicuous 
plant when in bloom. M. Soulangeana is thought to be a natural 
hybrid between M. denudata and the dark purple flowered M. 
liliflora (obovata). This is probably the case, as the color of the 
flowers would indicate; moreover, it is later in blooming than M. 
denudata and earlier than M. liliflora. M. Kohus is a very shapely 
small tree, with small flowers which open early. It is used as a stock 
for grafting purposes. The seeds are certain to germinate evenly 
when sown as soon as ripe. M. Soulangeana var. Lennei is the 
showiest of the dark purple flowered kinds. The bloom is cup- 
shaped and very large; the petals are dark purple on the outside, 
lighter within. M. stellata is sometimes used as an Easter plant. 
When flowered in pots for this purpose it should be home grown, 
and plants selected for forcing which show the most buds. For 
forcing they may be potted in the Fall, but if the ground is in a 
condition to allow the plants to be lifted they can be successfully 
flowered a week or two afterward. 

Propagation. Effected by seed, budding, grafting, and layer- 
ing. Stocks may be chosen from M. Kohus, M. tripetala or M. 
acuminata. Layering should be practiced before the plants are in 
active growth. The best season for planting is just before the 
plants start into growth. 

NEVIUSIA (Alabama Snow Wreath). The common name 
of N. alahamensis is a little misleading, as when in flower there is 
really nothing to suggest snow from the appearance of the bushes. 
The stamens are the most attractive part of the flower; they are 
greenish white. The flower is really a Spirasa without petals. 

Propagation. By division of the old plants; they sucker very 
freely. Summer cuttings can be depended on to root quickly. 

OSMANTHUS. This genus belongs to the same order as the 
Olive (Olea), under which the species are sometimes described. 0. 
aquifolium has a certain resemblance to the English Holly (Ilex). 
The resemblance is still more striking in the variety 0. a. ilicifoliuSy 
one of the handsomest evergreen shrubs outside of the Conifers. It 
has stood outdoors here for a long number of years. During very 
severe Winters it suffers very little, and in protected situations not 
at all. 0. a. myrtifolius is a form with leathery, spineless leaves, 
but is not such a free-growing shrub as the others. Of 0. a. ilicifolius 



326 PLANT CULTURE 

there are one or two handsome variegated forms in cultivation, 
but they are less hardy than the green leaved variety. 

Propagation. They are easily propagated by cuttings, rooted 
indoors during the Fall months. 0. a. ilicif alius seeds freely and the 
seedlings come true; they do not germinate till the second year. 
Privet stocks are used on which to graft the variegated forms. 

Pi^ONIA (Shrubby Paeonia). The shrubby Paeonies are va- 
rieties of P. Moiitan. They are hardy in the North, but their flower 
buds are quickly developed during mild weather, consequently they 
are apt to suffer from late frosts. They force well early in the season, 
but are only good for variety, as few flowers can be had on a moder- 
ate sized plant. As border subjects they are desirable, making an 
attractive display during April or the first half of May. 

Propagation. By seeds, division and grafting. The single 
and semi-double forms will, in favorable seasons, ripen a consider- 
able quantity of seed; they should not be allowed to remain in the 
seed vessels after they are ripe, as they harden, and germination will 
take longer than if sown when ripe. Sow in boxes and keep under 
cover for the Winter. They should germinate in Spring. Seedlings 
are not as free flowering as grafted plants. The operation of grafting 
is best performed during the first half of September, in order that 
the union may be perfect and new roots produced by the stocks to 
give the Spring growth a vigorous start. For stocks any of the 
numerous varieties of the Chinese species may be taken; those va- 
rieties having the poorest flowers should, of course, be selected for 
the purpose. The wood taken for cions should be from the less 
robust part of the plant, that in which the large flower buds are 
absent being preferred. The leaves should be shortened back, and 
the cion attached to a good sized piece of the fleshy part of the root 
of the herbaceous species by the easiest of the ordinary methods of 
grafting. Tie on with a string which will not rot in the ground dur- 
ing Winter, as support is needed in this way even after the cion 
has taken with the stock. The position to be occupied by the 
grafted stocks is the most important part of the operation. 

Where the Winters are severe, a deep frame, facing north, is the 
best place for them. In this locality they are heeled in on a shel- 
tered part of the open border, but deep enough in the soil, so that 
the lower part of the cion is covered. A layer of decayed leaves or 
sphagnum is kept on the surface of the soil, and the tops shaded for 
the first two weeks. In planting insert deep enough so as to give the 
cions every opportunity to send out their own roots. About the 



HARDY SHRUBS - 327 

beginning of May the graft will have made considerable growth; 
each one should then be supported with a stick, else it is liable to 
become detached from the stocks. Division should only be at- 
tempted with plants which are well provided with short growths 
from the bases of the plants. 

PAULOWNIA (Empress Tree). Under favorable conditions 
P. iomentosa (imperialis) grows into a good-sized tree. During 
May, before the leaves appear, the large panicles of bright purple, 
gloxinia like flowers open out, making a most gorgeous appearance. 
A medium sized tree will ripen an almost incredible number of seeds; 
they are quite small and need careful tending to germinate them 
successfully. Young plants, when cut down annually, throw up 
very strong shoots with leaves sometimes 2 feet in diameter, giving 
an effect not to be had with any other plant. It thrives in any soil. 
It is hardy in the North, but the flower buds, being naked, are 
usually killed by severe frosts. 

PHILADELPHUS (Mock Orange. Syringa). All of the 

species and their forms are valuable flowering shrubs with large 
white flowers, some of which are very fragrant. P. coronarius is 
one of the best known; P. c. primulceflorus has double flowers; there 
is another, P. c. foliis aureis, with yellowish leaves. P. grandiflorus 
is a native of the Southern States; it has larger flowers than P. 
coronarius. P. Lewisii is a late bloomer, with almost scentless 
flowers. Pruning should be done only after the flowers have faded. 
This will give the young wood an opportunity to ripen. The 
flowers are only produced on the wood made the preceding Summer. 
They succeed in almost any soil. 

Propagation. Cuttings taken after the leaves drop in Autumn 
will root very quickly if put in slight bottom heat in March or 
April; or in a protected place they root well in the open ground. 

POTENTILLA (Shrubby Cinquefoil). P. fruticosa is a very 
hardy species growing from 2 to 5 feet high, with pinnate leaves and 
numerous bright yellow flowers, which are produced all through the 
Summer. Small plants are very suitable for the rockery, and by 
pruning in the Spring they are easily kept within bounds. 

Propagation. Cuttings may be rooted at any time indoors 
during Summer. 

PRUNUS (Plum. Cherry. Almond. Peach). The genus 
Prunus includes many species of stone fruits of which some are of 
ornamental value. The Cherry Laurel or English Laurel {P.Laiiro- 



328 



PLANT CULTURE 



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HARDY SHRUBS 329 

cerasus) is hardy from Washington south. It is not native of Eng- 
land, but of the Levant. The Bird Cherry, P. Padus, bears long 
racemes of white flowers in May, followed by ornamental black fruit. 
P. spinosa flore-pleno, the double flowering Sloe, forms a large shrub, 
usually covered with double white fllo wers in early Spring. The dwarf 
white, double-flowering Almond is P. japonicafl ore-alba-plena; the red 
form is P. j. flore-rubra-plena. They bloom for only a short period, 
but are exceedingly handsome while the flowers last. P. Pissardi 
is the Purple-leaved Plum, of which there are good and bad forms ; 
the good varieties retain their coloring till the end of the season. 
The flowers, usually borne in great profusion, open in early Spring 
before the leaves expand. 

The double flowering forms of P. vulgaris, the Flowering Peach, 
are among the most popular of dwarf-flowering trees. Their period 
of blooming is during April and May, according to locality. P. v. 
versicolor plena has the flowers either red or white on the same tree, 
or with both colors combined in the same flower. There are double 
red, double rose and double white forms. P. amygdalus var. nana 
is the Flowering Almond and is a most attractive double pink 
flowering shrub. 

Propagation. The Plums and Cherries may be propagated by 
layers or cuttings, preferably the latter, as they will root in pretty 
large pieces — over a foot in length. The rarer varieties should be 
grafted on stocks of the type. Cuttings will succeed any time 
after the wood is ripe; a piece of the wood of the preceding year at- 
tached will give all the better results. P. Mazzard is usually em- 
ployed for budding P. cerasus Sieboldi rosea plena (Japanese Weep- 
ing Cherry) and P. c. sinensis plena (Chinese Double-flowering 
Cherry). For weeping sorts use two buds and for the other sorts 
one bud to make the heads. P. amygdalus var. nana is success- 
fully increased by cuttings of the large roots, made in Autumn and 
stored in damp moss. It may be budded to good effect at a height 
of 3 feet upon the stock, the Plum being used extensively. 

PTELEA (Hop Tree). This small tree, Ptelea trifoliala, is 
grown for the attractive, wafer like fruits and handsome, three- 
parted foliage. The name Hop Tree is applied to this tree because 
the parts of the tree when bruised emit a pungent odor of hops. 

Propagation. Seeds may be sown in the Autumn. The va- 
riety, P. trifoliala aurea, is grafted on the type. 

PIJNICA (Pomegranate). Both the tall growing and dwarf 
Pomegranates, Punica granatum and g. nana, stand the most severe 



330 PLANT CULTURE 

Winters in Washington without the least injury, and flower quite 
profusely during the Summer. They are all the more welcome, as 
their unique, bright scarlet flowers are produced when shrubs in 
bloom are scarce. In favorable seasons they ripen fruit, but we do 
not depend upon these for propagation. The dwarf form makes a 
very ornamental shrub and should be tried wherever it is likely to 
thrive. Native of Cabul and Persia. 

Propagation. Cuttings are taken from one- and two-year-old 
wood, stored and put in a cool house propagating bed about the 
middle of February; they root very evenly. They should be re- 
moved to a frame as soon as they will bear it. 

PYRUS (Crab Apple). Highly ornamental, low growing trees 
usually covered with flowers early in Spring. Some of them have 
very highly colored fruits in Autumn. The flowers of P. coronaria 
are large, single, pinkish white, very sweetly-scented. It bears 
fruit freely, but the seedHngs are slow in making flowering plants. 
P . floribunda and the variety called atrosanguinea are most beautiful 
when the flowers are half expanded; they are then of a bright, rosy 
red color, getting lighter when fully open. The flowers of P. Park- 
manni are double, of a beautiful deep rose; valuable for cutting. 
It is a very free flowering variety and should be largely grown. 
P. carnea and P. intea produce large numbers of flowers on small 
grafted plants. The double white and double coral colored forms of 
P. spectabilis are very desirable; they are very regular bloomers, sel- 
dom missing a season. P. floribunda and P. /. atrosanguinea bloom 
freely in a small state, and should be grown more for forcing pur- 
poses. 

Propagation. They are increased by budding and grafting 
on seedhng stocks. 

RAPHIOLEPIS. The common species, R. umbellata, is a 
charming little evergreen shrub, which is hardy in Washington in 
sheltered situations. The flowers resemble those of a Crataegus 
they are pure white, sweet scented, about three-quarters of an inch 
across and arranged in terminal panicles. The leaves are leathery 
in texture and oval. It ought to prove a good shrub for the Southern 
States. 

Propagation. It is easily propagated by cuttings in the FaU, 
rooted indoors. 

RHODODENDRON. In some parts these do grandly. In 
this locality, when given sheltered and partly shaded positions, they 



HARDY SHRUBS 331 

thrive tolerably well, but when in the full sun they do not thdve 
unless very carefully watched, nor do they thrive in a limestone 
soil. Hybrids of R. ponticum are less hardy than those of R. cataw- 
biense. This species and R. maximum are natives of the Eastern 
States; they should be given treatment similar to that recommended 
for Azalea. R. punctatum, a species from North Carolina with small 
pink flowers is quite hardy North. R. W. Curtis recommends the 
following varieties: R. album elegans, large, white, early June; R. 
Mrs. C. S. Sargent, pink, early June; R. Caractacus, red, early June; 
R. Everestianum, lavender, early; purpureum elegans, purple, 
early June. 

Propagation. They are increased by layering and grafting on 
seedHng stocks of hardy species, principally R. maximum. 

RHODOTYPOS (White Kerria). The common species, R, 
kerrioides, is a very desirable Japanese shrub, seldom growing over 
8 feet high, although in its native country it is said to reach twice 
that height. The flowers make their appearance as soon as the 
growths of the current year develop, and keep up quite a display 
from about the middle of May all through the Summer and Fall 
months; that is, if the ground does not get too dry. The flowers 
are snow-white, about 2 inches in diameter, and appear at the ends 
of the shoots. The plant thrives well on heavy soils, and, although 
not necessarily, in places crowded and partly shaded by overhead 
foliage. 

Propagation. The seeds are in shape and size somewhat like 
those of the Kerria. They may be sown as soon as gathered, as 
they are slow in germinating; frequently seedlings start at the base 
of old plants. 

RHUS (Sumach). These trees and shrubs have the interesting 
character of turning brilliant hues in the Autumn. R. Cotinus, 
the Smoke Tree, is covered during Midsummer with a fringe like 
growth of seed vessels and pedicels. R. glabra, the Smooth Sumach, 
is one of the handsomest species, on account of its large, odd-pin- 
nate leaves. R. g. laciniata has the leaflets much cut up, resembling 
the fronds of some Ferns. R. typhina, the Staghorn Sumach, grows 
from 10 to 30 feet high. The leaves are odd-pinnate, having from 
II to 3 1 leaflets. R. copallina, the Shining Sumach, is a shrub, grow- 
ing from I to 7 feet high and is attractive because of its glossy 
leaves. R, Toxicodendron and R. vernix are poisonous species; the 
former is known as Poison Oak and Poison Ivy, the latter as Poison 
Sumach, Poison Elder and Poison Dogwood. 



332 



PLANT CULTURE 




Rhus Cotinus (Smoke Bush) 



HARDY SHRUBS 333 

Propagation. Most species propagate readily from seeds or 
suckers from roots. 

ROBINIA (Locust). The Rose Acacia, R. hispida, is a most 
attractive shrub, bearing deep, rose colored flowers in hanging 
racemes. When grown on its own roots it suckers freely, and when 
planted among choice shrubs it soon appropriates space not intended 
for it. When worked on stocks of the False Acacia, R. Pseudacacia 
it is a more desirable shrub, but it requires frequent pruning to keep 
it in shape. Of R. Pseudacacia there are low growing and late- 
blooming forms; none of them are, however, superior to the type. 

Propagation. Seeds, suckers, and grafting upon seedlings of 
R. Pseudacacia are the best methods of increase. 

SHEPHERDIA (Buffalo Berry). Under favorable conditions 
S. argentea grows into a small tree. The leaves, owing to the presence 
of an immense number of small silvery scales, are almost white 
on both sides, and from a distance the plants look as if they were 
covered with white flowers. The blooms are small, produced singly 
or in pairs in the axils of the leaves; they are exceedingly fragrant. 
5*. canadensis is a smaller species, reaching a height of 6 feet. 

Propagation. Both are easily raised from seeds. 

SPIR^A. The shrubby species worth growing are too numer- 
ous to mention here. One of the earliest to flower, and a favorite 
kind, is S. prunifolia; S. cantoniensis (Reevesiana) and its double 
form are both popular. .S*. Thimbergii blooms very early in the season 
when there are but few leaves on the plant; the flowers are small, 
but they make up in numbers for what they lack in size. In the 
Northern states the tips of the branches are often winter-killed. 
All of the above have white flowers. -S*. salicifolia and its varieties 
bloom in dense panicles late in the season. This, with S. paniculata 
rosea, another late bloomer, has pink flowers. S. Van Houttei is 
one of the best kinds which flower in May or June; it makes a good 
forcing plant. S. Bumalda, S. B. Anthony Waterer and S. B. 
Froebelii, taller than Anthony Waterer have the flowers disposed on 
the ends of the shoots of the current year's growths, in flat heads, 
several inches in diameter. In S. Bumalda the flowers are rose 
colored; its variety has dark crimson blossoms. Both are dwarf, 
but very vigorous and easily propagated from the young wood. 
S. sorbifolia, S. grandijlora and S. Lindleyana are distinct from the 
others in having odd-pinnate leaves and the flowers arranged in 
large panicles, produced late in the season; they are properly Sor- 



334 PLANT CULTURE 

barias. S. sorhifolia dies down to the ground each season, and dur- 
ing extra hard Winters the other two behave in a similar way; but 
they make growth enough the following Summer to flower. 5. 
Lindleyana is useful for planting in large groups. A native of the 
Himalayas it is probably unsuited for Northern sections unless well 
protected. 

Propagation. Most sorts are easily raised from seeds, hard or 
softwood cuttings and by division. 

STAPH YLEA (Bladder Nut). S. colchica, S. Bumalda and 
S. trifoliata are grown chiefly for their inflated pods and white 
flowers. S. colchica has fairly large sized racemes of almost pure 
white flowers, very agreeably scented. 

Propagation. Young plants with flowering wood can be grown 
in two years by taking cuttings of dormant wood in Autumn, heeling 
in moss, introducing them to gentle bottom heat in March. 

STYRAX (Storax). A very ornamental and hardy deciduous 
species, S. japonica, has pure white flowers very abundantly produced 
in June and July. This species makes a good lawn plant. 

Propagation. By seeds which are sown as soon as ripe; the 
cuttings do not root very readily. 

SYMPHORICARPOS. S. albiis (racemosus), the Snowberry, 
is grown on account of the large white fruits which hang from the 
ends of the branches during the Autumn and Winter months. 
6*. orhiculatus {vulgaris), the Indian Currant, or Coral Berry, has red 
fruits smaller than the latter species. 

Propagation. Seeds, divisions, as well as hard and softwood 
cuttings readily multiply the plants. 

SYRINGA (Lilac). There are numerous species of Lilacs in 
cultivation, some of which are valuable for cut bloom. They are 
handsome while in flower, but they do not pay to grow alongside of 
the varieties of the common species, 5". vulgaris. Of these there is 
an abundance to choose from. S. chincnsis (5. rothomagensis), a 
small leaved kind, is valuable on account of the long stems which 
support the flower heads. S. persica, the Persian Lilac, and 5. p. 
laciniata make rather handsome bushes, which is more than can 
be said of most of the kinds, as they are decidedly unsightly when 
out of bloom compared with the majority of ornamental shrubs. 
They are aU natives of the Old World. S. vulgaris is indigenous to 
central Europe. Some of the finer varieties are as follows: Miss 
Ellen Willmot and Marie Legraye, both large-flowered and pure 



HARDY SHRUBS 



335 




Styrax japonica — Flowers White 



336 PLANT CULTURE 

white forms; Louis Van Houtte, dark red; Dr. Lindley, purplish 
lilac; Charles X., reddish purple; Leon Simon, double, bluish crim- 
son; Emile Lemoine, double, rosy-lilac. 

Propagation. Lilacs may be increased by seeds, suckers, 
layering, cuttings from half-ripe or dormant wood, budding and 
grafting. Raising plants from seeds is practiced for producing new 
varieties and for supplying stocks. The best stock is the California 
Privet, Ligustrum ovalifolium. By this method suckering is pre- 
vented. Layering is a sure method, and when a limited number 
of plants is wanted, it is the one which should be practiced. 

TAMARIX (Tamarisk). The Tamarisks are graceful, airy 
shrubs which succeed admirably at the seaside where soil is apt to 
be salt. 

Propagation. All of the species give little trouble in their 
propagation. If cuttings 6 inches long be made from the previous 
year's wood and put in gentle heat in the early Spring, they will 
root in a few days. Outdoor propagation will require the cuttings 
to be made nearly a foot long. 

LLEX (Whin. Gorse. Furze). U. europceus is a beautiful 
shrub which frequently gets winter-killed with us, yet we would 
not think of doing without it. It is useful for planting in the front 
of a shrubbery, in sunny places. It starts into active growth very 
early in the season, and late frosts do more injury than the very 
severe frosts of mid-Winter, although, like many other things, it 
does not Hke rapid thawing and freezing during Winter. 

Propagation. Seedlings are easily raised, and with good treat- 
ment they will bloom when two years old. 

VIBURNUM (Snowball). Owing to their large and showy 
heads of sterile flowers, several of the kinds are much grown in 
shrubberies, in groups on lawns, and for cutting. V. opulus sterilis 
is the one most largely cultivated; it comes in earlier than the 
Japanese species, V. plicatum, which is the best for cutting, as the 
flowers last longer, having more substance to them. V. macro- 
cephalum, as the name implies, has large heads of flowers; in fact, too 
large to be of much service in cutting. This form is shy in rooting 
from cuttings, and is usually worked on seedlings of any of the free 
growing species. There are numerous species, but their flowers 
are not showy. V. reticulatum has very handsome foHage, and forms 
a neat, tall bush. V. Tinus is an evergreen species, frequently getting 
injured here during Winter; there are several desirable forms of it. 



HARDY SHRUBS 



337 



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338 PLANT CULTURE 

V. dentatum, the Arrow Wood, is an attractive native shrub with 
coarsely toothed leaves and bluish black fruits. V. Carlesii is a most 
attractive species with pink and white flowers opening early in the 
Spring. For naturahzing there are several native sorts: V. alnifolium, 
V, acerijolium, V. prunifolium, V. cassinoides and V. Lentago. 

Propagation. Seeds sown in Spring after stratifying during 
Winter. When propagated from cuttings the growing tips should 
be taken in Summer; this must be done during a wet spell or from 
bushes which have been kept watered, otherwise the cuttings are 
very apt to lose their leaves during the process. Many of the sorts 
may also be propagated by hardwood cuttings. 

VITEX (Chaste Tree). In the region of Washington, V. 
Agniis-castus is one of the best late blooming shrubs, surviving the 
Winter without protection; farther north it needs protection and a 
sheltered situation. The flowers are purpHsh blue or white. The 
plant blooms in August and September. V. cannahcBjolia forms 
large, wide bushes, but it suffers during very severe weather. Both 
species are best raised from seeds. There is a hybrid form between 
the two species, with V. Agnus-castus as the seed parent; it is equally 
as hardy as that species, and comes true from seed. 

XANTHOCERAS. A native of Northern China, X. sorbifolia, 
was first grown in Europe about 40 years ago. It flowers after reach- 
ing a height of about 18 inches. Adult specimens, it is said, reach a 
height of 20 feet. The flowers are arranged singly, on a central 
stalk, which is several inches long. The stalk is upright, the bottom 
flowers opening first. In general appearance the individual flowers 
have a striking resemblance to those of the Shortia galacijolia. 
They have the same crumpled appearance on first opening. The 
outward parts of the petals are pure white, and nearest the base the 
color is at first yellowish green, subsequently streaked with brownish 
red and eventually changing to a brighter red. The flower stalks are 
produced on the ends of the previous season's wood; flowers and 
fohage expand together. In appearance the foliage somewhat re- 
sembles that of the Mountain Ash. The fruit is quite large, fully 
the size of a Horse Chestnut. The seeds are brownish black, three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter. 

Propagation. The seed should be sown as soon as ripe and 
kept cool so as not to force germination intil the middle of April. 
To insure the best results each seed >hould be sown singly in a 3-inch 
pot. This does away with the possibility of injuring the tender 
roots in transferring to larger receptacles or to nursery rows. From 



HARDY SHRUBS 



339 




Xanthoceras sorbifolia 



340 PLANT CULTURE 

some cause many of the seeds produce plants which are entirely 
white instead of green; these die when a few weeks old. 

YUCCA (Adam's Needle). The hardy species of this genus 
are all ornamental plants thriving in situations fully exposed to the 
sun. Almost any soil will suit them. Some of the most useful 
species are F. gloriosa (of which there are numerous varieties), F. 
recurvifolia, Y. angustijolia, Y. filamentosa and F. flaccida. The 
commonest species grown in the North is F. flaccida, rather than 
F. filamentosa, has stiffer leaves and coarser, curlier threads on the 
leaves. 

Propagation. They are increased by dividing the stems and 
planting in a shaded spot until rooted; also, in some species, by seeds, 
and from root cuttings. 




Chapter XII 
Roses 

ROSA (Rose). The Rose is without question the most popu- 
lar of flowers, and it can hardly be wondered at, as in the very- 
numerous species and varieties we have nearly every shade of color 
in the flower — green, yellow, bronze, red, pink, white, purple and 
almost black. The flowers, be they single, semi-double or double, 
have much to please the eye, and their fragrance is unsurpassed. 
The cultivated varieties are divided into classes. Some of the va- 
rieties are differently arranged by different authorities. The ar- 
rangements are intended as aids to the published descriptions; thus 
the more easily do growers get an idea as to the habits of a new 
Rose when the originators class it with a section of the better known 
varieties. But the varieties of the several groups have, to a certain 
extent, been crossed one with, another, and there are very few people, 
even be they expert rosarians, who agree with each other on the 
position which some of our Roses should occupy in any system of 
classification. Again, as new breaks are made by the crossing of the 
species and varieties, as has lately been done with the species R. 
Wichuraiana and R. ruhiginosa, there arises a necessity for new 
class names. Some of the sections are but little grown in the 
Northern States, as the plants which do best in the colder parts of 
the country belong to only a few classes. 

Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas. The following distinc- 
tions can usually be made between the Hybrid Perpetual and Hy- 
brid Tea Roses: 

Hybrid Perpetual — Name a misnomer for they are not per- 
petually blooming. Hardy, will stand much cold. More double 
flowers than most Hybrid Teas. Fatter buds. Flatter blooms. 
Not tea scented. 

Hybrid Teas — Many varieties are very perpetual blooming. 
Will stand cold only when protected. Less double than most Hy- 
brid Perpetuals. Pointed buds. Much bronze color in stems and 
foliage. Strongly tea scented. Lovelier colors than Hybrid Per- 
petuals. 

341 



342 



PLANT CULTURE 




Rose Frau Karl Druschki 



ROSES 345 

Hybrid Perpetuals 

The Hybrid Perpetuals are the best known garden Roses, but 
they are often less satisfactory than the Hybrid Teas because they 
become unsightly after blooming. In many cases the blooms appear 
in June, a trifle earlier or later, according to locaUty, and if not 
given best care will stop blooming. By cutting the blooms properly 
and with good culture some of the kinds give a few scattering blooms 
in Autumn. 

Some of the Hardiest and Best Hybrid Perpetuals 

Frau Karl Druschki. Pearly white. Best Hybrid Perpetual; real 
thick buds; prune moderately. The largest white Rose. 

Margaret Dickson. White, flesh center. Blush Frau Karl Druschki. 

Gen. Jacqueminot. Very deep crimson. An old but standard red. 

Prince Camille de Rohan. Very deep crimson. Good bloomer; hardy; 
vigorous growth; more double than Gen. Jacqueminot. 

J. B. Clark. Crimson, shaded rose. Vigorous; good for garden and cut 
flowers. 

Ulrich Brunner. Deep rose. Prolific; perpetual flowering; vigorous; 
good fragrance; long stems; disease resistant. 

Paul Neyron. Pink. Largest flowering of Roses; rather coarse; ex- 
tremely vigorous. 

American Beauty. Crimson. Often not so good out of doors. 

Magna Charta, Rosy pink. Bold, though somewhat dwarf. 

Mrs. John Laing. Rosy pink. Minute dots on petals; good height. 

Mrs. R. G. Sharman-Crawford. Rosy pink. Vigorous; fragrant; 
hardy; large. 

Louis Van Houtte. Deep red. Moisture turns buds black; fragrant; 
protect; free from mildew; dwarf; prune well. 

Clio. Rose pink. Most vigorous. 

Anne de Diesbach. Brilliant pink. Hardy; almost thornless. 

Alfred Colomb. Brilliant red. Large flowers; quite globular; fragrant; 
good grower. 

Madame Gabriel Luizet. Light pink. 

Forcing Hybrid Perpetuals. Before forcing Hybrid Perpetuals 
the plants should be lifted when the growths are matured, pruned 
back, potted firmly and placed in a coldframe. Plunge the pot 
among leaves, if there is a probabihty of their making a few roots 
before freezing weather without the buds starting into growth. 
Plunging will keep the roots safe and in a condition ready for active 
work. When brought into a cool house in the early part of the year, 
they need to be brought on very gradually so as to have feeding 
roots when the buds break. An examination of the roots will show 
when it is safe to force growth by giving gentle heat. 



344 PLANT CULTURE 

The American Beauty, sent out as such in 1885, is a perpetual 
bloomer and has, to a certain extent, taken the place of most of the 
older forcing varieties of the so-called Hybrid Perpetual class. This 
variety, wl^ich was raised in France, has had a wonderful career as 
a forcing Rose in the United States, and it is unlikely that its place 
will be taken by newcomers for some time at least. American 
Beauty, when cultivated under glass, is an ever bloomer. It is 
grown in a slightly warmer atmosphere than the Teas, and is often 
very successfully cultivated in solid beds. Medium sized wood 
should be chosen for the cuttings, and these made with two eyes. 
They should be planted out of 4-inch pots. 

Teas and Hybrid Teas for the Greenhouse 

This group is the most important of all the Roses, because it 
includes the Roses most grown under glass to supply flowers all the 
year round. The three Killarneys — the Pink, White and Killarney 
Brilliant, the latter being a brilliant rose red — are standards. The 
popularity of any one variety of red Rose is much contested, some 
growers preferring Hadley, others Hoosier Beauty, Richmond or 
Mrs. Harry Winnett. OpheHa, an orange salmon colored variety, 
has taken the market by storm; it is mildew proof, but occasionally 
is affected by black spot; the foliage, stem, and finish of the flower 
are superb. Madam Butterfly is a deeper colored sport. The largest 
pink Rose is Premier, perhaps, a rival of American Beauty. Colum- 
bia and Mrs. Charles W. Russell should also be mentioned as much 
grown pink Roses; the latter is the deeper in color. ]\Irs. George 
Shawyer has proved a most exquisite Rose for many growers; it 
bears bright peach pink buds upon long stems; is a bit susceptible 
to mildew. Two apricot Roses are grown: Sunburst and ]\Irs. 
Aaron Ward; perhaps the former is the better in size of flower, 
length of stem and prolificacy, but ]\Irs. Aaron Ward is an excellent 
corsage Rose because of its smaller buds and shorter stems. 

My Maryland, a pink; Kaiserin Augusti Victoria, a lemony 
white; Francis Scott Key, a crimson; Radiance, a superb pink; to- 
gether with Ophelia, Mrs. Charles Russell and the Killarneys, are 
used for Summer blooming indoors. 

Three miniature Roses are popular at present for use in corsages, 
namely. Mile. Cecile Brunner, also called Mignon and Sweetheart, 
this is a tiny pink variety almost indispensable for retail store 
work; Georges Elgar, a yellow polyantha, and Bon Silene, an old 
variety with bright pink, round buds. 



ROSES 



345 




Rose Columbia 

Awarded its originator, E. G. Hill, in 1920, the Gertrude M. Hubbard 
Gold Medal as the best Rose of American origination to date 



346 



PLANT CULTURE 




Rose Los Angeles 



ROSES - 347 

Cultivation Under Glass. Teas and Hybrid Teas are the 
Roses most largely grown for this purpose. They are easiest 
propagated from cuttings of the half-ripened wood. It does not seem 
to make much difference whether flowering or blind wood is used. 
Cuttings may be taken to single eyes with the leaf shortened back, 
or made with two eyes and the lower leaf removed. A bottom heat 
of from 65 to 70 degrees will answer, the atmosphere of the house 
being 10 degrees lower. Propagation is carried on from January to 
March. The plants are put out on the benches during June, from 
3- or 4-inch pots, according to variety. Four inches of soil is the 
usual quantity; the kind used should be rather heavy and fibrous 
loam mixed with rotted cow manure to about one-sixth of its bulk. 
Subsequent mulchings of rotted manure mixed with bonemeal are 
given as the plants show the necessity for them. Abundance of 
ventilation is afforded during w^arm weather. If shading is neces- 
sary it should be done with a substance which is easily removed, 
such as grafting clay mixed with water and applied with a syringe 
or pump. Firing should begin when the outside temperature drops 
to 50 degrees; the minimum night temperature of the house should be 
kept in the neighborhood of 58 degrees, rising to 70 degrees during 
the day for the Teas and Hybrid Teas. Watering is an item of the 
first importance. The condition of the soil is the best indicator as 
to whether water should be given or withheld. The first buds are 
cut off to induce robust growth. Syringing is necessary to prevent 
red spider from increasing but should only be practiced in bright 
weather. Ventilation is not less important than watering, and good 
judgment must be exercised in opening and closing the house; the 
condition of the weather out of doors must always be taken into 
consideration, as well as the indoor temperature, as cold draughts, 
or the temperature getting too low will almost certainly provide 
correct conditions for an attack of mildew — a fungus which in a short 
period, if allowed to grow unchecked, will ruin the plants. When 
mildew makes its appearance, sulphur applied to the steam or hot 
water pipes is the best antidote. Aphides are best checked by va- 
porizing tobacco extracts. 



Some of the Best Hybrid Teas for the Garden 

Antoine Rivoire. Rosy flesh on yellow. Good grower; large; in prun- 
ing thin out and shorten shoots. 
Bessie Brown. Creamy white. Fragrant; prolific; vigorous; large- 
flowering. 



348 



PLANT CULTURE 




Rose Hoosier Beauty 



ROSES 349 

Madam Caroline Testout. Silver pink. Fragrant; continuous bloomer; 

quite hardy; thorny. 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. Lemon white. Continuous blooming; 

fragrant; good form; the best white Hybrid Tea. 
La France. Silvery pink, paler reflex. First Hybrid Tea grown. 
Gruss an Teplitz. Brightest red of Roses. Best and easiest to grow of 

reds; prolific and continuous blooming. 
Sunburst. Salmon yellow. Good stems; large flowers; continuous 

blooming. 
Los Angeles. Lustrous pink, with a salmon cast. Excellent stems. 
Lady Alice Stanley. Lovely pink. Good stems; large flowers. 
Lieutenant Chaure. Velvety crimson red. Fine bud; vigorous grower; 

free-flowering. 
Jonkheer J. L. Mock. Clear pink, two shades. Superb; strong stems; 

prolific. 
Etoile de France. Crimson, center cerise. Cupped form; large; vigor- 
ous; prolific. 
Madam Abel Chatenay. Salmon shade rose. Good for cutting; good 

size; do not prune heavily. 
Mrs. Charles Russell. Deep rose pink. A rather new Rose worthy 

of attention. 
Madam Ravary. Golden yellow. Large, globular; prune hard. 
Konigin Carola. Silvery rose. Upright growth; vigorous. 
Ophelia. Pearly salmon pink. Excellent foliage; superb bloom. 
Laurent Carle. Carmine. Vigorous; hardy; fragrant. 

Tea Roses 

The planting of many Teas, except Hermosa, is not advised; 
they are too tender and require so much care that they should only 
be grown after one is truly a Rose enthusiast and will give them 
good attention. 

Maman Cochet. Pink. Most hardy of Teas; profuse blooming; beauti- 
ful bud; growth low. 

White Maman Cochet. White, somewhat tinged yellow. As good as 
Maman Cochet. 

Clothilde Soupert. White, creamy tinge. Good as an Autumn Rose; 
small flower; producing all Summer. 

Mrs. George Shawyer. Lovely pink. Seems to be an excellent bedder. 

Hermosa. Delicate light pink. This is one of the hardiest of the China 
Roses. It blooms from June until frost continuously. 

Madame Joseph Schwartz. Pink. 

Helen Gould. Red. Good finish. 

Souvenir de Pierre Notting. Yellow, sufi"used apricot. 

Sombrueil. White. In many locations superior to white Maman 
Cochet. 

RuGOSA Hybrids 

Among the other everblooming kinds the Rugosa Hybrids are 
deservedly in the front rank. It is in the neighborhood of 50 years 



350 PLANT CULTURE 

since INL-idam Georges Bruant was sent out. The flowers are large, 
semi-double, very sweetly scented, and in color are almost white, 
having a slight creamy shade. Under favorable conditions, that is, 
where they are encouraged to send up fresh growths, blooms will be 
produced all through the season. Blanch Double de Coubert seems 
to be a double form of Rosa rugosa alba; it bears a pure white flower, 
is free blooming, and should be in every collection. Conrad F. 
Meyer is regarded by nearly everyone who has seen it as being one 
of the finest Roses in cultivation. In deep rich soil it gives a profu- 
sion of rich, silvery pink flowers. There are several other varieties, 
all of them well worth growing. Added to the charm of their flowers 
the foliage is bright green and abundant. These Roses are very 
hardy and stand our hot Summers exceptionally well. To prolong 
the season of bloom the large fruits should not be allowed to mature. 

Pernetiana Hybrids 

There is a group of varieties orginated by Pernet-Ducher et Cie 
which are hybrids between Harrison's Yellow and the Hybrid Teas. 
This is a comparatively new group of yellow and apricot sorts, 
worthy of wider cultivation. 

Yellow Briar Roses 

The Austrian Briars are among the earhest to flower; they form 
good sized bushes and require little attention in the way of pruning. 
Austrian Copper has large, single flowers of a brilliant coppery red 
on the upper surfaces of the petals; the under surfaces are much 
paler in color. Austrian Yellow has large single yellow flowers. 
Harrison's Yellow and Persian Yellow are semi-double forms. 
R. Hugonis is a small, single, yellow-flowered Rose, not quite well 
enough known to obtain a reliable opinion of its merits. The flowers 
are small, lighter in color than those of the Austrian Briars. R. 
xanthina, also a yellow flowered species, is attractive on account 
of flowers, foliage and spines; the latter are large and bright red. 
What appears to be a double form of this species has recently been 
introduced. It has the distinction of blooming a week or so in 
advance of any other Rose and is evidently very hardy. 

WiCHURAIANA HYBRIDS 

The Memorial Rose hybrids have come into prominence of late 
years and deservedly so. The female parent, R. Wichuraiana {R. 
Lucice) is a Japanese species, of a rambhng habit, with clusters of 



ROSES - 351 

small white flowers, which open late. The leaves are small and 
shining. The plant lasts only a short time in bloom, but a well- 
established subject bears thousands of flowers. This is the easiest 
of all Roses to propagate. The new races of hybrids which have 
been raised lately are, in some cases, several weeks ahead of R, 
Wichiiraiana in blooming; they appear to be very hardy. The 
flowers of R. Wichuraiana are capable of being fertilized with pollen 
from a large number of different varieties, and the resulting progeny 
varies greatly. Some have large, single flowers exceeding in size 
any of the recent hybrid Sweet Briars; others are small, very double, 
with petals arranged like the florets of a Zinnia. Some again have 
the flowers so closely resembling those of the variety Hermosa as to 
be mistaken for these, but the habit of all the seedlings partly sug- 
gests their parentage. -W. A. Manda of South Orange, N. J., was 
the first to raise hybrids from this species. 

Penzance Briars 

Lord Penzance has given us an excellent addition to the Briars 
in his hybridizations of the Sweet Briars, Rosa rubiginosa, with 
some of Hybrid Perpetuals and Teas. The flowers are bright, 
cheerful and single, and the foliage is sweet scented. 

POLYANTHA, OR BaBY RaMBLERS 

Resembhng the Rambler Roses, but of dwarf habit, we have a 
group of admirable sorts, namely: Triomphe Orleanais is a cherry 
colored variety; Erna Teschendorff is as bright as Gruss an TepHtz; 
and Ellen Poulsen a crimson pink, floriferous and vigorous. 

Climbing Roses 

There are several species which have worked marvelous changes 
in the cHmbing Roses. R. multiflora was the first to be developed. 
It gave us Crimson Rambler, the most popular climber for many 
years. Later came the use of R. Wichuraiana in the hybrids and 
varieties with superb, glossy foliage resulted. Dorothy Perkins 
illustrates this group. There is one other species, the Prairie Rose, 
R. setigera, which has given us some superb varieties with large 
single flowers borne boldly on huge trusses; the American Pillar be- 
ing a variety. Climbing Roses require little pruning except to thin 
out old branches. These sorts, however, should be severely pruned 
back at planting. 



352 



PLANT CULTURE 




Climbing Rose Lucile 



ROSES 353 

Some of the Good Varieties of Climbers 

Dorothy Perkins. Delicate pink. One of the best pink climbers; foliage 

excellent, glossy. 
Philadelphia. Crimson. A much better Rose than Crimson Rambler, 

but a trifle later. 
Excelsa. Deep crimson. An exceedingly hardy, rapid growing climber 

of a brilliant color. 
Tausendschon. Several shades of pink. One of the large flowering 

climbers, indispensable for each person's Rose garden. 
Christine Wright. A lovely pink. Large flowers, borne singly and in 

cluster; beautiful in bud and bloom. 
Hiawatha. Ruby carmine. One of the finest single climbing Roses; 

the plants are a mass of bloom. 
Silver Moon. Large, single white. Superb foliage; rampant growing. 
Dr. Van Fleet. Salmon pink. A double and a good grower; long stems. 
Aglaia. Yellow Rambler. A good lemony variety with numerous 

stamens. 
Gardenia. Superb glossy foliage and truly Gardenia-like flowers. Ex- 
cellent if hardy. It is inclined to freeze back to soil in colder regions. 

When to Plant Garden Roses 

When you decide to plant some new Rose bushes, select a good 
spot; one that receives the sun the greater part of the day, a place 
which is a Httle sheltered from the wind, but not surrounded by high 
fences or buildings, remembering at the same time that many trees 
rob Rose beds of their fertility and moisture. Dr. Huey, of Phila- 
delphia, once said that it was much better to plant a fifteen-cent 
Rose bush in a fifty-cent hole than it was to plant a fifty-cent Rose 
bush in a fifteen-cent hole. This fifty-cent hole need not cost us a 
cent, except some good exercise. Soil for Roses should be prepared 
at least two feet deep and its enrichment should consist of the addi- 
tion of well decayed, not fresh, manure. One always thinks of 
Roses as preferring clay soil and it is very true that when Roses are 
once established in this soil their blooms are large and of excellent 
substance. Roses when set out among other plants hardly do so 
well as when assigned to a definite bed of their own. These beds 
should be not less than 3 feet and not more than 6 feet wide. When 
the beds are too narrow, the grass roots intrude from both sides 
and rob the Rosss and when too wide it is difficult to pick the Roses 
without one's shoe becoming muddv. Furthermore, it looks nicely 
to see a bed which is perfectly cultivated and which has not been 
stepped upon. It is much better to plant in the Spring, in which 
case we do not have so great a loss of plants. This does not mean 
that we cannot olant in the Autumn, but there is danger of the 
plants not becoming estabUshed before the frigid conditions of 



354 



PLANT CULTURE 




ROSES 355 

Winter. Let us then prepare our soil by digging deeply in the 
Autumn and wait till Spring to set the plants. 

Summer Treatment 

The Rose always appreciates a loose layer of soil above its roots 
so that throughout the whole season the hoe should be diligently 
used. Mulching in mid-Summer with grass clippings or well decayed 
manure will also be of value. Those varieties which have been 
budded upon the Manetti, or wild Rose, stock, are very apt to pro- 
duce suckers from the roots. The suckers are usually very strong 
and will soon crowd out the growth from the desired variety. The 
Manetti can be distinguished by a greater number of leaflets than 
the Hybrid Teas, Tea or Hybrid Perpetuals; at the same time the 
foHage usually presents a differently toothed and duller appearance. 
Perhaps the best fertilizer for Roses is well decayed manure supple- 
mented by an application of bonemeal which can be applied at any 
time during the growing season. If one will start early in the Spring 
to syringe the Roses, the foliage can be kept clean of some insects 
and much dust. In order that syringing of this sort be the most 
useful, it is necessary to apply the water with good force. This 
will dislodge the plant lice and red spider. 

Winter Protection 

The main injury from cold is due to the sun which causes an 
alternate freezing and thawing of the branches. A sunshade 
should be given rather than an overcoat. The best method of pro- 
tecting the plants of the more tender groups is by mounding soil 
about them a foot deep. When the warm days of Spring have 
surely arrived this can be easily removed. The tops are protected 
either with a wrapping of paper and straw or covered by some sort 
of box. Empty orange boxes prove rather useful in some cases. 
The dwarf Roses are nicely protected by using evergreen boughs. 
The Briar Roses, the Damask and the Moss need no protection. But 
in order to be safe it is better to protect the Hybrid Perpetuals. The 
Hybrid Teas and Teas should never be allowed to remain through 
the Winter without some protection. 

Pruning 

If one notes the habit of growth of the Rose, the pruning will 
prove a much simpler problem than it would seem at first sight. 
The flowering stems of a Rose are produced from wood of the cur- 



3s6 PLANT CULTURE 

rent or the previous season's growth. The weakest shoots should 
always be pruned most vigorously. If one wishes to obtain good 
flowers of the largest size the bushes must be pruned very severely, 
but if. one prefers a mass effect, only the dead branches and those 
which have become very old are removed. It is best to prune early 
in the Spring rather than in the Winter for one never knows how 
much more of the plant will freeze. When cutting off a shoot cut 
it just above a bud, which is on the oustide. This will make the 
growth outward rather than toward the center of the plant Tea 
Roses, which winter-kill to within a few inches of the soil when 
not perfectly protected, should have all the dead material removed 
and besides each branch must be shortened one-third. 

Cutting Roses 

It is a simple operation to cut a Rose, but few persons realize 
the advantage of cutting them properly. The cutting of the blooms 
of the perpetual blooming varieties often governs their abihty to 
bloom until Autumn. Always remove all wilted blooms. Cut the 
stems long, using a sharp knife. Allow several eyes at the base of 
the flowering shoots; these latter will send up additional flowering 
shoots. All blind wood or wood which does not end in a bud should 
also be cut back. 

Propagation by Cuttings 

Roses for outdoor growth are propagated by budding, grafting 
and from cuttings. When it is desired to put cuttings in the open 
ground the work should be done during the first half of October. 
Select a sheltered spot. Have the ground freshly worked, or, better 
still, the cuttings may be put in as the ground is dug. The cuttings 
should be at least nine inches in length and only an inch or so 
should be exposed above the surface. Those cuttings having a heel 
are not so liable to decay as those cut between. leaves, or at the base 
of a leaf. They should always be put in with the aid of a spade, as 
it allows firming with the feet; and if the soil needs it a Httle sand 
should be added while the trench is open, to induce healthy rooting. 
Half-rotted leaves, or rough stable litter, should be spread over the 
whole during hard freezing weather. When they are to be rooted 
indoors, the cuttings should be taken off later, tied in bundles and 
their bottom ends placed in moss, in a place low enough in temper- 
ature to keep the buds dormant. In Spring place in a gentle bottom 
heat, with the atmosphere cool. They will root readily by this 
method. The cuttings must be potted before the roots get long. 



ROSES 



357 



In potting have the soil moderately moist, so that they will need 
little water until the roots begin to take with the soil. 

Amateur Method of Making Cuttings 

To the great majority of amateur Rose growers the propagation 
of the Rose by very easily manipulated methods is comparatively 
unknown. There is a method so easy that every boy and girl may, 
with a little care, increase the number of their plants. The almost 
certain method of making a long stemmed cutting and rooting it 
under a glass fruit jar where the plant is to grow, is one of the best 
and easiest. If the stem of the cutting is about 8 inches long and 
when in place the entire stem below the two topmost leaves is buried 
in the soil success will result. It is wonderful how these cuttings 
will root with but little attention beyond giving a little water occa- 
sionally. ]\Iany more Rose plants would be sold if children only 
knew this very simple method. A still better method is to place the 
long cuttings in pots and bury the pots deep enough so that only 
the tops of the cuttings are above the surface and sink them deep 
enough in the soil so that the two top leaves only are above the 
surface, placing the fruit jars on them and w^atering occasionally. 
This method allows the rooted plant to be lifted in its pot and 
planted out in any part of the garden desired. It is usually the case 
that this rooted cutting will make a much better plant than the 
ordinary short-stemmed cutting. The school children can root 
Rose cuttings by this method just as successfully as any other 
plant and have the rooted plants within a few months every whit 
as good and strong as those plants which cost anywhere from loc. 
to 50c. per plant. The suggestion is to root the stems of the green- 
house Roses after they have finished blooming. 

Propagation by Seeds 

New varieties are largely raised from seeds ripened from hand- 
pollinated flowers. In raising plants from seeds, if sown as soon as 
ripe, they germinate very irregularly. Some of the Hybrid Perpet- 
uals will germinate part of a crop and some of them will flower in two 
months from date of sowing. Other seedlings, germinated at the 
same period, will take at least a year to bloom, while other seeds of 
the same batch will lie in the seed pan over a year before vegetating. 
The reason why the seeds sometimes remain a long time in the soil 
before germinating is owing to their being inclosed by a horny sub- 
stance. This should be softened before sowing, by allowing the seeds 



358 



PLANT CULTURE 




Extraordinarily Successful Result of Cross Pollination 



to remain in boxes of finely sifted sand during the Winter, the boxes 
to be buried several inches below the surface of the soil out of doors. 
In removing the seeds from the sand previous to sowing, use a sieve 
with a small mesh; empty the sand (which is likely to be wet) into 
this, and force the sand through the meshes with the aid of a stream 
of water from the hose. The seeds should then be sown before get- 
ting dry. Care must be taken to remove them from their Winter 
quarters before vegetating, which they are apt to do, even when they 
are deep in the soil, as soon as the temperature of their surroundings 
reaches 40 degrees. Another method of treating Rose seeds, especially 
those which ripen as a result of cross pollination, and one, which 
if carefully done results in quick germination, consists of cutting off 
one end of the achene a little at a time until the seed is partly ex- 
posed. This can only be done with great care and with the aid of a 



ROSES _ 359 

dissecting microscope, a sharp knife and lots of patience. I have 
found that seeds so treated sprout very quickly when sown in clean, 
large grained pure sand. It is only the large achenes which lend 
themselves to this treatment; the smaller ones, such as are found in 
the heps of the Wichuraiana, are too small to be worked successfully, 
and in this case there is little necessity for treatment of this descrip- 
tion, as the seeds germinate very successfully after being stratified 
out of doors during the Winter months. 



Propagation by Grafting 

There seems to be a difference of opinion as to the benefits to be 
derived from this method of propagation, but each grower may 
settle it for himself by giving it a trial. The stocks should be pre- 
pared by potting in 3-inch pots; in thickness they should correspond 
as near as possible with that of the cion — the cion should never be 
of a greater diameter than that of the stock. Any of the common 
methods of grafting will answer. The cion should be securely 
fastened in position with raffia. As soon as tying is completed, it is 
necessary that the plants be kept in a suitable atmosphere to pre- 
serve the leaves of the cions so that the union. may be hastened. 
In grafting hybrids this is not so necessary, as they can be handled 
without leaves. A brisk heat under the plunging material will 
quicken the action of the roots and effect a union safely without the 
aid of a frame; but with Teas it is necessary to have them in an 
almost air-tight structure. If only a few hundred are to be ex- 
perimented with, part of a side bench may be set apart for the pur- 
pose of receiving the grafted plants, and may be prepared as follows: 
Have the front and back boards higher than the plants. Ordinary 
sash laid lengthwise of the bench will suit all right, provided they 
can be arranged so as to keep the atmosphere warm and humid. To 
facilitate easy access to the plants the sash may be temporarily 
hinged on to the back boards with pieces of leather, and the sash 
tilted in front with a stick. Select a stretch of bench that can be 
relied upon to supply a temperature of from 70 to 80 degrees inside 
of the frame. First put a layer of sphagnum on the bench — one 
inch closely packed will do. Over this put some ashes, or sand, on 
which to stand the pots. The other conditions necessary for a quick 
union will readily suggest themselves, air being given very gradually 
after the union has taken place. When hardened off, growth will 
be accelerated by a shift into larger pots. 



CHAPTER XIII ! 

Vines, Hardy and Tender 

ACTINIDIA. A. polygama and A. Kolomikta are beautiful 
deciduous woody climbers, very different in general appearance from 
all other hardy vines; both are natives of Manchuria. For some 
reason they do not flower satisfactorily in Washington, but in Cali- 
fornia they do grandly. Actinidias are at their best when grown 
on trellis work. 

Propagation. The proper time to propagate is when the young 
growths are in the ripening stage. Cuttings should be rooted early 
enough in Autumn to go into 3-inch pots and occupy frame space 
before the arrival of cold weather. 

ADENOCALYMNA. A. co^nosiim is one of the best tender 
vines where it can be given enough headroom. If planted -out and 
otherwise treated according to its requirements, it will make 
growths 70 feet in length. It is closely related to the Bignonias. 
Flowers are bright yellow, being borne in large racemes. It blooms 
in mid-Winter. 

Propagation. Propagated by cuttings of the ripe wood in 
late Summer. 

ADLUMIA (Climbing Fumitory). Every florist who wishes 
his place to be attractive out of doors in Summer .should reserve a 
few nooks for the seeds of the charming climber A . fungosa (cirrhosa) . 
In places where most other things will not grow it makes a good 
showing. It is exceedingly attractive, takes care of itself and 
comes up year after year. Seeds are produced in abundance. The 
foliage to a certain extent suggests that of Adiajitmn cuneatum; 
both foliage and flowers are handsome. 

Propagation. Being an annual it is best to sow the seeds where 
the plants are to grow, because even small specimens transplant 
but poorly. 

AKEBIA. Although a climbing plant, and a very handsome 
one, A. quinata is frequently grown to answer the same purpose as 
bush plants of Jasminum niidijiorum. For this purpose it should 

360 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 361 

be allowed to ramble over low supports. For trellis work it is well 
adapted. Although a common plant we seldom see it in fruit, 
which is probably accounted for by the fact that the pistillate 
flowers come into bloom before the staminate ones, thus preventing 
fertilization. 

Propagation. Its propagation is brought about from cuttings 
of the current year's growth, choosing wood not too thick nor yet 
the weakest branches. Make the cuttings with two or more leaves 
on them, and place together in a cool bed; root them in time to be 
put in a cool frame for the Winter. 

ALLAMANDA. Among the select flowering plants for tem- 
porary or permanent use in tubs we must include the large flowering 
Allamandas known as A. cathartica, A. Schottii and A. grandiflora. 
Most of the species are used as greenhouse climbers. They will 
thrive in shade or sun; where a little shade is available the flowers 
naturally last longer. The flowers are large, almost the size of the 
Moonflower, but more lasting; the shoots ramble over the sides of 
the tubs. The best upright growing species is named A. Williamsii, 
a grand plant either for boxes, tubs or for bedding out; it is easily 
propagated in the Fall from ripe cuttings. The larger flowered 
kinds, when represented by large plants, are very desirable for 
isolating on a lawn. 

Culture. A good, rich, light soil is necessary, and if a tub is used 
for the plant put enough drainage in the bottom so that the plant 
when knocked out of the pot will rest on the drainage. Ram the 
soil firmly around the ball, shorten back the strong growths and 
stand the plants in a partly shaded spot, syringing frequently. In 
a few wrecks' time, the kinds grown under the names A. Wardleana, 
A. Hendersoni B.nd A. Schottii, will give an abundant -display of their 
wide, trumpet shaped, yellow flowers. When trained near the roof 
of a warm greenhouse they may be had in bloom the greater part of 
the Winter months. In fact, they can be managed so as to have 
them bloom at any time of the year, by first resting the plants, 
pruning back and encouraging the root growth. 

Propagation. Cuttings of the ripe wood will root in a warm 
propagating house at any season. Procure some young plants in 
the beginning of May and a httle later plant in the open to make 
growth for cuttings. After cutting them back for propagation lift 
and pot, partly resting them for the Winter. For immediate effect 
after planting out start early in the Spring; one plant to a tub, 
among other things, is sufficient. 



362 



PLANT CULTURE 




Fig. 20 — Ampelopsis Veitchii. Fruiting Spur 



/' 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 363 

AMPELOPSIS (Parthenocissus) . A . Veitchii, the Boston Ivy, 
and A. Roylei differ from each other only in that the former is the 
smaller of the two in leaf and fruit. A. Roylei is, perhaps, the more 
rapid grower of the two. They are both ideal vines for covering 
walls, not only for ornamental appearance, but what is of more im- 
portance, in warding off the rain from the walls. It may be noticed 
that the foliage is imbricated; that is, the lowest leaves, the blades of 
which hang almost perpendicularly, are covered for nearly half of 
their length from the base by the ends of the leaves above; thus the 
water drips from one to the other instead of being absorbed by the 
substance against which the vine grows. Another good reason why 
it should be planted much more freely is, that it keeps the sun from 
the walls, making quite an appreciable difference in the temperature 
of the interior of the dwelling. 4. (Vitis) heterophylla variegata is a 
vine of straggling growth, with very handsome colored foliage. It 
may be planted with English, or Boston Ivies to break the monotony 
of a large expanse of green. The variegated form comes true from 
seed. The fruit of A. heterophylla is remarkable in being green, 
creamy white and purplish at different stages of growth. A. quin- 
quefolia var A . Engelmanni, A . diver sifolia and A . aconitifolia, are 
all good kinds. 

Propagation. The fruit may be gathered about the beginning 
of November, the seeds washed clear of the pulp, and sown in a 
frame having a southern exposure. Do not sow thickly as the cotyle- 
dons are large, and damping off may result before the seedlings are 
transplanted. By the middle of May the seedlings are ready for 
handling. They may either be put in small pots, singly, or three 
in a 3-inch pot, plunged in ashes in a frame, the sash put on and 
shaded for a few days until the young plants have taken with the 
soil. The Ampelopsis, owing to the nature of the roots, are best 
transplanted out of pots. 

ANTIGONON (Mountain Rose). In the Southern States 
A. leptopus is one of the most satisfactory vines; even in Washington 
it blooms for about two months out of doors; that is, when put out 
as small plants. When large specimens are planted out the period 
of blooming is much longer. The flowers are bright pink, in very 
large clusters. 

Propagation. It should be propagated from cuttings taken 
in September; make the cuttings with a single leaf attached, and cut 
below a joint. The large roots are tuberous looking, enabling the 
old plants to be easily wintered over in a cool house. 



364 



PLANT CULTURE 




Aristolochia Sturtevantii 



ARISTOLOCHIA 
(Birthwort). The Aristo- 
lochias are interesting be- 
cause of their strange 
shaped flowers. A. macro- 
p/iylla (sipho) is a native 
species, The Dutchman's 
Pipe, but it is far behind the 
tropical ones in the beauty 
of its flowers. Sometimes 
we need a vine for covering 
unsightly structures under 
the shade of trees; this is 
the best to be had, as it 
luxuriates under those con- 
ditions. It is most easily 
raised from seeds. A . grandi- 
flora var. Sturtevantii and 
A . elegans are easy to grow, 
and are almost certain to 
produce an abundant crop 
of their exceedingly curious 
flowers. Both of these kinds 
may be planted out in Sum- 
mer to cover trellis work. 
An intermediate house will 
suit them in Winter. A. 
elegans ripens seeds in the 
open at Washington. Far- 
ther north the seasons are 
too short, unless large 
plants are taken to start 
with. 



Propagation. A. g. Sturtevantii has soft growth, more so than 
any other species, and roots very readily from cuttings. A. elegans 
gets hard soon after developing, and is a trifle diflicult to root; but 
seeds are produceds abundantly, and the seedlings are every bit as 
floriferous as plants raised from cuttings. 

ASPARAGUS. (See page 63.) 

BIGNONIA (Pyrostegia). B. venusta is one of the most reliable 
Oi our warm greenhouse climbers. The flowers are reddish orange 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 365 

in color, and are produced in great profusion. It should be planted 
out in a box built of bricks, such box being large enough to hold 
several bushels of soil. The ideal way to train is to a single main 
stem along the rafters of the greenhouse. From this stem the 
growths on which the flowers appear are allowed to hang downward 
to their full length. By judicious trimming of these growths, and 
short resting periods before starting into growth, two crops of 
bloom may be had each year. The plant v/ill bear full sunshine all 
the 3^ear round. 

Propagation. Increased by cuttings of the ripe grov;ths in 
March. 

BOUGAINVILLEA. There are at least five kinds in cultiva- 
tion. B. spectabilis is as free blooming as any, but only on large 
specimens. It is very useful for training along the roof in the same 
way as B. glabra. A season of rest, followed b}^ severe pruning, 
usually induces an abundant flowering growth. B. glabra Sanderiana 
differs from the type in being smaller in the flower and more florif- 
erous in a small state. 

Culture. They should be allowed to make their growth out of 
doors, either in the small or large state. There is not much to be 
gained by planting out, as they make few roots. Plunging answers 
well enough, with a shift in midseason, if necessary. After the 
plants are brought indoors the large, soft growths may be shortened, 
and an intermediate temperature maintained until the plants are 
started into growth, when more water and heat are given. After 
they have made a start, doses of weak liquid manure are beneficial. 
When in bloom, gradually harden off, or the flowers will fall in 
showers. B. glabra blooms young and requires less heat than B. 
spectabilis. For training upon the roof the plants should be 
trained to single long stems, and flowered from lateral growths, 
pruning these severely just before growth starts. 

Propagation. Small specimens from cuttings, rooted in the 
beginning of the year, will bloom the following Winter; but larger 
plants take a couple of years to develop. 

BOUSSINGAULTIA (Madeira Vine). In well drained, sunny 
situations, such as may be found at the south side of a wall, B. 
basselloides frequently stands out all the year round in Washington, 
D. C. It is a favorite vine with a great many people. After the 
vines are blackened by frost, dig up and store in conditions similar 
to that of the wintering of DahHa roots. 



366 



PLANT CULTURE 




Campsis (Tecoma) radicans. The Trumpet Creeper. 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 367 

Propagation. It is very readily increased by taking the little 
tubercles which form on the vine and sowing them in rows in the 
open, without supports. The tubers, which form underground, may 
also be taken, cut up into small pieces and treated in the same way. 

BRYONIA (Bryonopsis). B. laciniosa is a slender cut- 
leaved annual vine, with rather handsome red fruit the size of a 
cherry, beautifully marked with white. It is grown principally as 
a warm greenhouse plant. 

Propagation. Raised from seeds, which may be sown out of 
doors end of April. 

CAMPSIS (Tecoma. Trumpet Vine). C. chinensis {grandi- 
flora) differs from our native C. radicans in having very much larger 
flowers. It makes a very showy vine when in bloom late in Summer. 
A good plan to show off this vine to advantage is to grow it against 
a stout support, made of iron or wood, several feet high, and when 
it gets to the top encourage it to become bushy by frequent pinching. 

Propagation. Increase in stock is sometimes attempted from 
portions of the roots cut into small pieces, but unless certain that 
the plant is on its own roots this is a dangerous practice and has re- 
sulted in much disappointment, as the resulting plants may turn out 
to be nothing but the native C. radicans, on which C. grandiflora is 
frequently grafted. After these root cuttings make considerable 
growth it is quite a difficult matter to tell whether they are C. 
grandiflora or the native species, so closely does the foliage of the 
two species resemble each other. Those on roots of C. radicans 
make plants quicker than from root cuttings, or from cuttings of 
the green or dormant wood. Cuttings of the branches are a trifle 
difficult to manage at any time, but the ripened growths of young 
plants will give the best results, as then the wood is not nearly 
so thick and pithy as in old specimens. 

CARDIOSPERMUM. This is the Balloon Vine, so called 
from the appearance of the seed vessels, which are very much in- 
flated. The seeds of C. Halicacabum, the common species, should 
be sown in semi-wild places. They are sometimes sown so they 
may climb on wire fences. The plants ripen a very large quantity 
of seeds, and they may be sown where the plants are to grow. 

CISSUS. No other vine approaches C. discolor insofar as the 
beauty of its foliage is concerned. The leaves are reddish on the 
lower surface; on the upper surface the color is bright velvety green 
mottled with silver; stem red. It is usually grown in a warm 



368 PLANT CULTURE 

house, where its growth is very rapid. C. antarctica, the Kangaroo 
Vine, is a well known window plant, for which purpose it is admir- 
ably suited. It is not particular as to treatment. 

Propagation. Cuttings of the ripened wood will root at almost 

any period of the year. 

CLEMATIS. There are many beautiful species of Clematis 
for garden culture upon trellises, porches and pergolas. C. paniculata 
is a small, white flowered sort and is one of the tallest and most 
vigorous species. It blooms during August and September. It has 
risen in popular favor, being one of the best hardy vines in culti- 
vation. 

Varieties of Clematis Jachnannii and C. lanuginosa, that is, those 
having the large blue, purple, lavender or white flowers, some of 
them, the singles, being about 8 inches across and some double, are 
all worth attention, as they give an elegant display of flowers from 
June all through the Summer; that is, if properly attended to in the 
way of soil, mulching and watering. They all dislike limited root 
space and show it in poor sized flowers and few of them. Encourage 
them to make all the growth possible before cool weather. They 
should be started early in the season in a cool house not too much 
heated. With one or two flowers on they are ready selling plants, 
and all that are sold will be advertisements for next season's supply. 
Another method of propagation is to take cuttings of the young wood 
about the middle of June, and root indoors. This is the method 
mostly employed in this country; but grafted stock make the strong- 
est plants in a given space of time, owing to the stronger root action. 

The beautiful C. texensis (coccinea) is well adapted for wire 
trellis work. It is superior to C. Viorna. There are other good 
forms, such as Countess of York, Countess of Onslow and Duchess 
of Albany. 

Propagation. Seeds of C. paniculata ripen in November. 
Raising from seed is the best and easiest method of propagation. If 
sown when ripe the seed will germinate early in Spring and make 
fair sized plants by the following Fall; but if kept till Spring, and 
sown then they will not germinate till the Fall; even then they have 
to be carried over in boxes in frames, and are not much in advance 
of the seedlings which germinate the following Spring. From this 
it will be seen that a year's growth is gained by Fall sowing. Like 
most other Clematises, it does best in deep, heavy loam well en- 
riched with manure. The varieties may be propagated from the be- 
ginning of January till the beginning of April. Lift a few roots of 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 



369 




Clematis paniculata 



310 



PLANT CULTURE 



such species as C. ligusticifolia, C. paniculata or C. Viticella for graft- 
ing of any of the sorts desired to be increased. Whip grafting will 
answer best. Tie the stock and cion together with raffia and place 
in a box of chopped moss, standing the box in a propagating frame 
with a temperature of from 65 to 70 degrees. Afterward they are 
gradually given air, potted on, and hardened off as they require 
it. 

CLERODENDRON. A wonderfully floriferous vine, C. Thom- 
soncB can be flowered successfully in 6- and 8-inch pot. Old plants 
may be allowed to get in a dormant state in Autumn, reduced and 





CLERODENDRON FlOWERS IN DIFFERENT STAGES 

repotted in February, but as much as possible of the old wood 
saved, as from this they produce flowers on short growths. Each 
plant will require the support of three or four stocks. The flower 
is bright crimson, the calyx being large and pure white. C specio- 
siwi in growth resembles the above; the flowers are scarlet, and the 
calyx tinged with red. 

Propagation. Cuttings may be struck in Spring and planted 
out during the hot months to make growth. 

CLITORIA (Butterfly Pea). C. ternatea is a half-hardy an- 
nual vine, and one of the very best, making an exceedingly pleasing 
display when in rich soil and given supports about 4 feet nigh. 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 371 

The flowers are dark blue, in shape and size resembling those of the 
Sweet Pea. This vine is sometimes grown as a creeper, but the 
very attractive flowers are better seen when it is allowed to climb. 
It is an ideal plant for growing on iron railings. There are pink, 
white, and double flowered forms. 

Propagation. The seed should he started indoors early. The 
seedlings, no matter how carefully they are tended, look as if they 
had a hard struggle for existence, but under the influence of full 
sunshine they will make good plants by the middle of May, when 
they may be planted out for the Summer. 

COB/EA. When grown indoors as a perennial, C. scandens will 
attain a length of 30 feet. In this country it is principally grown 
as an annual for outdoor use in Summer. C. s. variegata is a varie- 
gated form for the greenhouse. 

Propagation. As the seeds germinate quickly and need prick- 
ing off shortly, or almost immediately after germinating, owing to 
their large cotyledons, it will save time to put each seed in a 2-inch 
pot; fill the pots and merely press the seed in edgewise. No covering 
is necessary if the seed be pressed in deeply so that only the upper 
edge is seen when the soil is settled by watering. The variegated 
form is increased by cuttings. 

CONVOLVULUS (Bindweed). This genus possesses many 
weedy plants which, when once they gain a foothold in the garden, 
are difficult to eradicate. Several are very ornamental when in 
bloom. One of the best, especially for baskets, an evergreen, with 
short, pendulous growths, is named C. maurilanicus. The flowers 
are blue, and about an inch across. C. tricolor makes a very suitable 
plant for hanging baskets. 

Propagation. This plant is usually increased by division, or 
cuttings of the ripe growths early in Spring. Seeds are also offered. 

Culture. A fibrous soil is preferred by these plants in the 
greenhouse. 

HEDERA (English Ivy). The varieties of H. helix are numer- 
ous; some have very small leaves as in H. Doner aliens is, others are 
very large leaved, as, for instance, H. dentata. Others again are 
beautifully variegated. H. h. var. haltica seems the hardiest form. 
Nearly all of the Ivies make good pot plants, and some of the va- 
rieties will develop more leaves and sterns to a given size of pot 
than any other plant in cultivation. The less sun the plants get in 
Winter the hardier they will be, as rapid thawing and freezing is 



372 



PLANT CULTURE 




Hedera helix — English Ivy 



injurious to the foliage. Where a supply of leaves is wanted during 
the Winter the vines may be planted on a position sloping to the 
north. In cold locahties a light covering of fine branches will be 
beneficial. 

Propagation. If the cuttings are taken from outdoor 
plants propagation should be done in Autumn, as then the foHage 
is at its best, and it keeps splendidly during the Winter months on 
good sized cuttings rooted in frames. The variegated kinds should 
be given the protection of a frame, especially for stock purposes; 
and cuttings of these kinds are rooted in IVlarch. They will not root 
so freely from large sized cuttings as from more moderate sized 
ones. 

HIDALGOA (Childsia. Treasure Vine). H. Werckki, the 
cHmbing Dahha, is a native of the mountain regions of Costa Rica. 
It is a vine of soft growth with compound leaves. The flowers are 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 373 

not unlike those of a single Zinnia; the color is intense scarlet. Like 
other greenhouse vines of this family (Compositae), such as the 
Mutisia, the weak growths will not produce flowers, consequently 
the plants should be encouraged to make robust growth, expecially 
during the late Winter months, to flower in April and May. When 
planted out in Summer the vines make very rapid headway, but the 
flower display is meagre. For the Southern States and California 
it may turn out to be a very desirable vine. With us it seems to 
thrive best in a rather cool house. 

HOYA (Wax Plant). H. carnosa is the most popular of the 
genus. It has large umbels of flesh colored flowers. It is a popular 
house plant with many. There is a beautifully variegated form. In 
Summer the plants may be plunged in the full sun out of doors. 
An intermediate house and only a moderate supply of water will 
suit them in Winter. 

Propagation. For cuttings take good sized pieces, pot and 
plunge in brisk bottom heat. The young plants should, if started 
early, be given a rather high temperature. 

HUMULUS (Hop). In the warmer parts of the country, H. 
japonicus var. variegatus is a hardy annual, and one of the most 
handsome of those having variegated leaves. To have an early 
growth, the seeds should be sown about the beginning of March 
and the seedlings potted off singly when large enough. Green leaves 
preponderate on the seedlings, gradually becoming better colored 
as the plants increase in height. 

IPOMCEA (Morning Glory. Moonflower). The Japanese 
Morning Glories vary much in the color of the flowers, and while 
some of them are undoubtedly pretty there are numerous shades 
which will never become popular. Few sorts approach in beauty 
the well known /. Learii or the kind known as /. ruhro-ccerulea. 
The first named is evidently a perennial without tubers, and it is 
propagated from cuttings; the last named, from seed. The tuberous- 
rooted kinds need only to be treated like Cannas or Dahlias during 
the Winter. In Summer few climbers can equal them in perpetual 
masses of bloom. Ipomoea digitata (paniculata) is probably the 
best of the lot. Other good ones are /. hederacea {scabra), I. Har- 
dingii, I. HorsfallicB and /. insignis. The two last named are nearly 
alike, but /. msignis is the better for Summer bloom. /. macrorhiza 
{Michauxii), a native of the Southern States, makes an excellent 
outdoor vine if started early in the greenhouse. Under cultivation 
the large flowering variety of the native /. pandurata makes a 



374 PLANT CULTURE 

display of bloom never seen in a wild state. As to their propagation, 
/. HorsfaUicB and /. insignis are either rooted from cuttings taken 
during September, or grafted on seedling stocks of /. pandurata. 
The other tuberous rooted kinds are best raised from seed, which 
should be preserved in the capsules until the beginning of February 
and sown in boxes of chopped sphagnum, in which they germinate 
much sooner than in soil. Keep in a growing atmosphere, as the 
seedlings are prone to develop tubers and go to rest shortly after 
the seed leaves are formed. 

One of the best flowering vines of moderate growth for the decora- 
tion of the greenhouse during the Winter months is IpomoeaBriggsii. 
Most of the other Ipomoeas bloom during the Summer, but this 
one makes a liberal supply of shoots during the Summer from which 
it blooms during the dull months of the year. The color of the 
flowers is very deep crimson. The old plants should be repotted 
in early Summer, using light, rich soil and giving them pots large 
enough to flower in. As the shoots develop they should be tied 
around stakes, and later on, if wanted to cover pillars or rafters, 
these shoots can easily be untied and fastened in the positions in 
which they are wanted to bloom. 

The flowers of Ipomoea grandiflora and /. Bona-nox (Moonflower) 
are pure white and very large, opening about dusk and lasting till 
morning. They are propagated by cuttings. Plants from Autumn- 
rooted cuttings which were shifted on after the first potting, will, 
by the beginning of February, be throwing out a quantity of shoots 
which are intended to be utilized for cuttings. When these shoots 
get a foot or more in length nip the ends out, as by doing so the re- 
maining part will ripen more quickly and provide better material 
for single eye cuttings. The plants from these will be large enough 
by planting out time. Large flowering plants of the common 
Moonflower will often ripen considerable quantities of seed; these, 
when gathered, are very large and rather soft, but when kept for 
some time they diminish in size and get very hard, so much so that 
they refuse to germinate under ordinary conditions. Put them into 
a saucer of water and stand the vessel on a warm bench for a day or 
two, when the seeds will soften. This condition will be indicated 
by their swelling to two or three times their normal size; they should 
then be sown singly in small pots, keeping the soil only slightly 
moist to prevent rotting. 

The Moonflower is again coming into popularity in certain sec- 
tions of the country. At the planting out season the vines are 
unattractive looking, and as most people want plants in bloom when 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 375 

they buy, the Moonflower is often overlooked. Plants should be 
in 4-inch pots before planting out, as those out of smaller sized pots 
take too long a time to develop. 

KADSURA. A rather attractive looking vine, K. japonica is 
allied to the Magnolias, with small yellowish white pendent flowers. 

Propagation. It is propagated from the ripe wood in August. 

LAPAGERIA. This subject is one of the choicest of cool green- 
house cUmbers, but our hot Summers are not favorable for the 
growth of the Lapagerias under ordinary circumstances. L. rosea 
has rosy crimson, drooping, bell shaped flowers and L. albiflora 
has whitish flowers. Where a cool, shaded soot can be devoted to 
it, success may follow. To flower well the Lapargeria should be 
planted out. 

Propagation. Propagation is best effected by layering the 
stems. 

LATHYRUS (Perennial Pea). L. latifolius alhus is among the 
finest of Summer flowering herbaceous plants. The flowers are pure 
white and come in very useful for making up designs. It is a com- 
paratively scarce plant and the seeds offered by dealers are not al- 
ways to be depended upon, as the pollen from the pink flowered one, 
usually to be found in gardens, seems to act quicker on the stigmas 
of the white variety than its own pollen. In seeding they should 
be kept apart so that there will be no danger of their mixing. In a 
temperate house the plants will only be in 3-inch pots by planting- 
out time in the Spring. To support the vines run some stout 
branches in the ground around the plants, bend and tie together 
at the top. L. odoratus, the Sweet Pea, is discussed on pages 157 
and 238. 

Propagation. Sow the seeds indoors, in boxes or flats, and 
keep in growth all Winter. 

LONICERA (Honeysuckle). L. sempervirens is a most beau- 
tiful native species; the flowers are dark red and yellow. There are 
several varieties; one has pale yellow flowers. L. caprifolium 
has large, yellowish flowers; L. Periclymenum is the common English 
Honeysuckle. It is a very strong growing vine and exceedingly 
fragrant. L. japonica produces flowers dull red and white; very 
fragrant; a most profuse bloomer. L. ^a///awa: the flowers of this 
species open pure white, changing to a dull yellow; when the plants 
get sufficient moisture they continue blooming all Summer. L. ja- 
ponica var. aureo-reticulata is a weak grower if not planted in good 
soil. It is grown for its beautifully marked foliage, which is netted 



376 PLANT CULTURE 

with yellow, L. Heckrottii, a species with glaucous foliage and very 
handsome reddish nink flowers, blooms continuously from near mid- 
Summer. 

Propagation. All the kinds root freely from ripe wood after 
mid-Summer. 

LYSIMACHIA (Money Wort. Creeping Jenny). L. 

nummularia will thrive in shade or sun. There is a pretty variety 
with yellowish leaves. 

MANETTIA. M. glabra (cordifolia) is one of the handsomest 
of the low-growing flowering vines, growing about 4 feet in a season, 
and covered from mid-Summer on with bright red, tubular flowers. 
It is almost hardy in the District of Columbia, surviving ordinary 
Winters with the protection of some litter thrown over the crowns. 
M. bicolor is apt to run too much to weedy growth during Summer, 
especially in the warmer parts of the country. 

Propagation. Green wood cuttings of M. bicolor root quickly. 
Those propagated early in September make nice flowering plants 
in 4-inch pots for Winter blooming in the cool conservatory. On 
the other hand, green cuttings of M. glabra are not very easily rooted, 
nor does the plant give an abundance of material for this purpose. 
But by root cuttings a one-year-old specimen may be made the 
parent of a hundred or more plants. To give large and healthy 
roots for this purpose, the plants should be planted out early. By the 
middle of October the tops are cut off, the roots lifted and put in 
boxes of sand for a few weeks. In preparing for the root cuttings 
take a box, in the bottom of which put some rough screenings, then 
2 inches of fine soil made very firm; put the pieces of roots (about 
three-quarters of an inch in length) on the surface, then cover 
with three-quarters of an inch of coarse-grained sand and put in a 
warm house. When the growths have made two pairs of leaves put 
each growth in a 2-inch pot, shifting into 3-inch pots as they require 
it. 

Pi^DERIA. P. Joetida is usually grown as a stove and green- 
house climber, but it is hardier than is generally supposed. We have 
had old plants which have stood out in the open border for over 20 
years. It is rather an attractive looking, but not a free blooming 
vine. The leaves or any part of the plant, when bruised, emit a 
most offensive odor. 

Propagation. Cuttings should be put in any time after the 
growths are matured. 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 377 

PARTHENOGISSUS. (See Ampelopsis p. 363.) 

PASSIFLORA (Passion Flower). P. incamata is said to be 
hardy around Philadelphia. It is one of the most rapid growing 
species; has large, whitish flowers and bears seeds abundantly. 
P. ccBrulea is apt to get killed to the ground in Winter north of 
Washington. P. S. Constance Elliott is a white flowered variety 
seemingly hardy and more floriferous than the type. Imperatrice 
Eugenie, Innesii, Lawsoniana and Munroi are good hyrbrids. 
P, alata and P. quadrangularis (Granadilla) are stove climbers with 
large, handsome flowers. P. aucubifolia, a variety of the last 
named, has the foliage handsomely marked with yellowish 
blotches. 

Propagation. Stock plants will Winter if planted in a frame, 
the back of which is formed by the wall of a warm house. These 
may be propagated from cuttings of ripe growths any time in late 
Summer. The Passifloras are easily propagated by seed. The seed 
germinates slowly. Half-ripe wood should be used for cut- 
tings. 

PETREA (Purple Wreath). P. voluhilis is a greenhouse 
climber of very irregular growth, bearing in March and April long 
racemes of very showy purple flowers. The calyces are only a few 
shades lighter in color than the corollas. This plant should be in 
every greenhouse collection. It is very suitable for training up 
rafters. 

Propagation. Cuttings of the dormant wood will root in heat; 
the best time to do the work is just before the plants start into 
growth. 

PUERARIA (KudzuVine). P. hirsuta (Thmibergiana) h3.s ior 
several years been distributed throughout the country under the 
name of Dolichos japonicus. It is a hardy, trifoHate leaved vine, 
having inconspicuous, purplish pea shaped flowers, which are seldom 
produced except on the old wood of well established plants. The 
flowers amount to but Httle, however, in fact, no one would grow 
the vine on account of the flower display. It is the rapidity with 
which the vine will cover space which has made it a favorite with 
those who have given it a trial. It is, without doubt, the most 
rapid growing hardy vine in cultivation, and is very useful for 
covering the ground, for trellis work, and especially for hiding un- 
sightly structures. 



378 



PLANT CULTURE 




PUERARIA ThUNBERGIANA. ThE KuDZU ViNE. 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 379 

Propagation. Cuttings should be put in by the end of August, 
to enable the plants to make a little headway so as to stand over 
Winter safely. The leaves, being large and soft, should be laid 
flat on the sand without being shortened back in any way, and al- 
lowing only about 3 inches of stem with each leaf. Roots are pro- 
duced from the under part of the stem a short distance from where 
the leaf joins. It seldom happens that cuttings root in the ordinary 
way, that is, from the cut part of the stem, so that they are ready 
for potting in a few days after being put in the sand. Good plants 
may be had in a short time by layering during August, keeping 
the ground moist during the operation. 

OUISQUALIS (Ragoon Creeper) . Q. indica is a very desirable 
climber which can be grown to perfection only in the largest con- 
servatories, such as the palm houses of public gardens. It should 
have several cartloads of good soil to grow in. It is one of the most 
desirable climbers, and furnishes myriads of flowers which are 
admirably adapted for cutting. 

Propagation. Young plants are easily raised from the newly 
ripened growths. 

SCHUBERTIA (Araujia). It is seldom that we see this noble 
vine grown well in greenhouses, the plants being usually sickly 
and infested with mealy bug. As a Summer vine out of doors 5. 
grandiflora makes very vigorous growth, and after mid- Summer it 
bears a profusion of bloom. The flowers are not unlike those of 
Stephanotis floribimda, but are larger and quite as sweetly scented. 

Propagation. Cuttings make the best flowering vines. These 
may be taken from the ripe wood before the advent of cool weather. 
Seeds are freely produced in large, egg shaped fruits; they germinate 
freely shortly after being sown. 

SENECIO (Parlor, or German Ivy). 5. mikanioides is the 
species commonly grown instead of 5. scandens as usually advertised. 
The plants are useful for long growing vines at the front of window 
boxes and urns. 

Propagation. A few plants struck from cuttings in the Fall 
will give growth for a large number of cuttings after the first of the 
year. 

SOLANUM. In the Southern States S. Wendlandii should prove 
a desirable garden vine. The flowers are arranged in cymes from 
6 to 10 inches across (bright lilac blue) on the ends of the hanging 
branches. In this latitude the seasons are too short for small plants 



38o PLANT CULTURE 

to make much of a floral display in the open. As a greenhouse 
climber, however, it ought to have a place where sufficient room can 
be devoted to it. 

Propagation. Cuttings should be made fiom the short, lateral 
growths, taken about the end of September. 

STAUNTONIA. S. hexaphylla (also known as Holhoellia latifolia) 
is one of the best climbers in Washington. The Winters have not 
harmed it in the least for the past 15 years. In places where it is 
partly shaded from bright sunshine the splendid foliage will persist 
during the Winter. The leaves are much larger than those of the 
Akebia, to which it is closely related. It flowers very freely. Seeds 
are obtained from Japanese dealers in quantity. Where it does well, 
it is one of the best evergreen vines. 

Propagation. Cuttings of the ripened growths will root fairly 
well in the cool propagating house during the Autumn months. 

STEPHANOTIS. A great deal of roof space may be successfully 
utilized in the growing of S.floribunda, the flowers of which are white 
and fragrant. 

Culture. The plants may be put out in benches in the green- 
house and trained up the rafters, but the bench must be one which 
will not need repairing every now and then. The best plan is to have 
a rather deep box of soil specially prepared. Fibrous loam, enriched 
with manure; some charcoal and crushed bone will keep the soil open. 
It is not necessary to have a high temperature in Winter, as most of 
the growth will be made during the Summer months. 

Propagation. Start wdth cuttings, as they flower much more 
abundantly than plants grown from seed. 

STIGMAPHYLLON (Butterfly Vine). The flowers of 5. 
ciliatum are not unlike those of some species of Oncidium, both in 
form and color. It is one of our best medium sized vines for trellis 
work. For pot culture it is of Httle service, and only thrives in the 
greenhouse when planted out. 

Propagation. September is the best month for propagation 
On outdoor plants much of the wood is useless for this purpose, bein^ 
thin and soft. Choose the growths which were made early in th| 
season; a heel or a joint is not necessary. Root them in bottom heat, 
potting in 2-inch pots, and afterward in 3-inch pots, in which they \\i\\ 
pass the Winter. 

TACSONIA. These plants are closely allied to the Passioi) 
Flowers and, if anything, they are more graceful. Several of thenj 
are used out of doors, principally in California, w'here they make a 



VINES, HARDY AND TENDER 



381 








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382 PLANT CULTURE 

splendid showing. T. Van Volxemii is a commonly cultivated species. 
In the East they are used as climbers in ornamental greenhouses. 
Propagation. They are propagated at almost any time of the 
year from cuttings of the ripened growth. 

THUNBERGIA. This genus includes some very desirable 
greenhouse climbers, and at least one species, with several varieties, 
useful for vases, baskets, and as a vine of moderate growth for the 
mixed border. This is T. alata, one of the several plants known 
by the common name Black-eyed Susan. Seeds will germinate out- 
side, but to produce early effects they may be sown indoors early in 
the season and hardened off with other softwooded plants. The best 
greenhouse species are: T. laurifolia, white and blue flowered; T. 
fragrans, pure white, and T. mysorensiSy purple and yellow. 

Propagation. The perennial species may be raised from seeds, 
but plants obtained in this way are apt to have a weedy growth and 
turn out to be shy in blooming. Cuttings put in about February will 
furnish the finest flowering plants. 

TRACHELOSPERMUM (Star Jasmine), As if this long 
name were not enough it is sometimes called Rhynchospermum, but 
notwithstanding these horrible names the species T. jasminoides is 
a thing of beauty, being useful for a cool conservatory climber. 
It bears very beautiful clusters of pure white flowers. It has per- 
sisted out of doors at Washington for many years, but in a sheltered 
position on a wall. 

Propagation. Well ripened growths must be used as cut- 
tings, but they must be rooted in a cool propagating house. 

WISTARIA. W. sinensis, the Chinese Wistaria, flowers before 
the leaves are fully expanded. Old and floriferous plants have a 
gorgeous appearance when in full bloom. It may be grown as a 
standard trained to a stout post sunk in the ground, or as a vine for 
arbors, etc. There are several varieties of this species: W. s. flore- 
pleno, having double flowers; W. s. macrobotrys, sl variet}' with very 
long and light colored racemes. W. frutescens is a native species, 
flowering later than the Chinese plant. 

Propagation. Propagation is effected in various ways. The 
plants, as a rule, set seed freely, but the seedlings are apt to turn 
out shy bloomers. Seedlings of W. frutescens may be used as stocks 
on which to graft IF. sinensis and its forms. The operation should 
be performed while the plants are dormant in March or April. The 
long growths may also be layered in Midsummer, allowing them 
to remain till well established. 



CHAPTER XIV 

Ferns and Lycopods 

Greenhouse Fern Culture 

Soil. This should be of a porous nature, through which water 
will pass freely. Small plants from spores will need about two parts 
leaf soil and one each of loam and sand. Loam, whenever used, 
should be fibrous, well broken up and not sifted. For plants in pots 
larger than 4-inch, leaf soil, loam and sand, in equal parts, will be 
a safe compound. Some Ferns, notably A.Farleyense, are benefited 
by having some rotted cow manure mixed with the soil. Large 
plants, and those which have to remain in the same pots for any 
length of time without shifting, should have less leaf soil and more 
loam. But most of the species thrive in a variety of soils. The 
usual time for potting large plants is before starting into growth; 
but rapid growing, small plants should be shifted into larger pots 
as they need them. 

Summer Quarters for Cool House Ferns. Many Ferns 
used during Winter as decorative plants will be found to put on a 
vigorous growth in frames during the warm months. Select those 
frames with a northern exposure, with the sashes tilted to give an 
abundance of air. The pots may be plunged or placed on some 
material capable of giving off considerable moisture. The plants 
may be kept in this structure till cool weather. Among the kinds 
which may be thus treated are: Pteris Victor ice, P. cretica alho-lineata, 
P. Mayii, P. serrulata and its many forms, P. tremula, P. kastata, 
Onychium japonicum, Aspidium capense, AdiantumCapilliis-Veneris, 
A. formosum, Cyrtomium falcatum and Dicksonia antarctica. In 
Winter a minimum temperature of 45 degrees will keep all of the 
Ferns named above in healthy condition. For the more tender 
kinds 10 to 15 degrees higher will be necessary. 

Shading. Some Ferns, such as Cheilanthes lanosa {vestita) grow 
in dry places in the full sun, but the vast majority thrive only 
under conditions exactly the reverse. In Winter the very thinnest 
shade will be sufficient, and from the ist of April to the end of Sep- 
tember it should be heavy enough to intercept the sun's rays. 

383 



384 



PLANT CULTURE 




Fig. 22— Characteristic Spore-Bearing Parts in Various (Genera 

OF Ferns 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 385 

Preparing Soil for Fern Spores. The greatest hindrances to 
raising Ferns from spores are the lower forms of plant life ever 
present in the soil, and very often in the water. These consist of 
Mosses, Liverworts and the various confervoid growths. Many of 
them, owing to the favorable conditions presented, vegetate as 
quickly as the spores of the Ferns and grow into a mass, choking 
the prothallus in the first stages of growth. The only means of 
getting around this difficulty lies in sterilizing the soil, or, at least, 
that part of it on which the spores are to be sown; and this can only 
be done safely by subjecting it to a temperature sufficiently high to 
kill all plant organisms, by baking, steaming or boiling. The last 
method will be the most available in the majority of cases. The 
soil may be boiled for 15 or 20 minutes, and afterward poured into 
wide flat boxes to dry. Shallow pans are the most convenient in 
which to vegetate the spores; they should be well drained with 
potsherds and these covered with a layer of sphagnum. The kind 
of soil to be used is of little importance, provided it be porous and 
free of vegetable organisms. Loam, leafmold and finely broken 
brick, in equal parts, make an ideal mixture. Press it firmly and 
give water always by sinking the pan up to the rim in a vessel con- 
taining water. 

Gathering and Sowing Spores. Many failures in germinat- 
ing some of the rarer kinds of Ferns may be set down to harvesting 
the spores at the wTong time. They should always be gathered with 
the aid of a hand magnifying glass, which will show when the cases 
are about to burst. Cut off the entire frond, or as much as may be 
wanted, and put between sheets of white paper to dry. In a day 
or two the spores will have fallen from the frond; if not, a gentle 
rubbing between the fingers will release them. They should then 
be scattered on the surface of the soil in the pan, taking care to sow 
very thinly, as they are very liable to dampen off when the prothalli 
are too close together. Cover with a pane of glass and put the pan 
in a shaded frame, or in a heavily shaded part of the greenhouse. 
When the prothallus develops, and just as the first tiny leaves ap- 
pear, the glass covers may be removed, to harden the seedlings a 
little. A day or two after they may be pricked off into other pans 
of soil, taking one small patch at a time on the end of a knife blade 
and merely pressing them into a previously made cavity on the 
surface of the soil. They may then be watered through a fine rose. 

Viviparous Ferns are those which develop bulbels along the 
midribs or on the lateral branchlets of the fronds, thus providing a 



386 PLANT CULTURE 

ready means of propagation. Polystichnm angulare, Aspleniiim 
hulhiferum and W oodwardia radicans are good examples. There 
are also several other well known Ferns which possess this peculi- 
arity. To increase Ferns by this means sink the pots up to their 
rims in a suitable mixture of soil to enable the fronds which are 
provided with bulbils to be easily pegged down, so that plantlets 
may be encouraged to develop roots quickly. When they have made 
a sufficient quantity to enable them to become self supporting they 
may be separated from the frond and potted separately into 2^^-inch 
pots, or, if too small for pots, they may be pricked ofif into boxes or 
pans. 

Insect Enemies. If the plants are not subjected to adverse 
conditions, such as too high a temperature, or insufficient moisture 
in the air or at the roots, they will seldom be attacked by insects. 
The mealy bug, thrips and brown scale are sometimes trouble- 
some. Scale is not easy to remove, and the only efficacious method 
is to use a sponge and water. For the other insects fumigation or 
vaporizing may be resorted to, or, if only a few plants are affected, 
they may be laid on their sides and the insects removed by using 
the hose. Slugs are the greatest enemies of the Ferns, and a close 
watch should be kept for them. Various methods are employed 
to capture them, such as a board smeared on the under side with 
lard, cabbage leaves, and sliced turnips, or potatoes laid among the 
plants; or by using camphor among the pots, and air slacked lime 
on and under the benches. If the slugs are numerous, hand picking 
should first be resorted to. They feed at night and rest during the 
day. They will usually be found in the angular space beneath the 
rims of the pots. 

Hardy Ferns 

Northern exposures and moist places always suggest ferns. 
They are usually somewhat fragile and must be protected from 
high winds. They usually need an abundance of water, but prefer 
good drainage. Furthermore, they should be planted where water 
will not continually drip upon them. They are especially successful 
under trees where they take care of themselves nicely. They should 
be transplanted in early Spring or Fall — those in exposed places 
better in Spring. They may be planted in clumps of all of one 
species or they may be mixed. Among rocks, on a slope, is a very 
good place for them. They vary in height from 4 inches to 4 feet. 
Ferns possess creeping underground stems; some are deep, others 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 387 

are merely surface creeping; a few have thick, upright stems, which 
are hard to pull up. 

The soil that ferns will like varies greatly. The best method of 
knowing what soil they need is to note where they grow naturally. 
In general, most Ferns like a deep, rich, not too heavy soil — better 
with little peat in it. In their native habitat they have few or no 
enemies, but in the garden they are attacked often by wood lice, 
slugs, snails, caterpillars and the grub of the daddy longlegs. 

There are many sorts suitable for outdoor culture. The following 
are most common and hardy: 

Adiantiim pedatum (Maidenhair): Prefers well drained, light 
soil. It has a poor color when grown in sun. 

Aspidiiim (See Dryopteris). 

Asplenium acrostichoides: Moisture; some shade; endures sun- 
light if in cool situations. A. angustifoliuni: Avoid the removal 
of old fronds. New crop springs up and weakens the plant. A. 
Filix-fcemina (Lady Fern) : Good, rich loam, moist. Excellent, 
well formed fronds, which are very variable. A. pinnatifidum: A 
small evergreen fern found in depth of glens. Useful for planting 
between stones. A. Trichomanes: A rock garden plant. A. platy- 
neuron (Ebony Spleenwort). 

Camptosorus rhizophyllus (Walking Fern): Prefers dry ledges. 

Cheilanthes lanosa: Prefers deep shade. C. tomentosa: Prefers 
less shade and more moisture. 

Cystopteris bulbifera: Plant in shade on moist bank. C.fragilis: 
Fronds die in August. 

Dennstcedtia (Dicksonia) punctulobula (Hay-scented Fern): 
Heavy growth. Grow for cutting in Summer. 

Dryopteris (Aspidium) Boottii: Does not need Winter shade. 
D. cristata var. Clintonianiim: Swampy ground. D. Filix-mas (Male 
Fern): Rich soil; deep shade. D. Goldieana: Cool, rich soil. Grows 
in acid soil or leaf mold. D. marginale: When transplanted in full 
leaf the plants rarely survive. Likes a rich; moist soil and deep 
shade. D. noveboracensis: Not good for cutting. Easily trans- 
planted. D. spinulosa var. intermedia (Spinulose Shield Fern): 
Good in wet, and under trees as well. D. Thelypteris: Partial shade 
in marshes. 

Lygodium palmatum (The Climbing Fern; Hartford Fern): 
This Fern is difficult to estabhsh. It is moisture loving. 

Onodea-sensibilis (Sensitive Fern): Wet ditches and rich, moist 
soil; partial shade. 0. Struthiopteris (Ostrich Fern): Burns in full 
sunshine. 



388 



PLANT CULTURE 



Osmunda cinnamomea (Cinnamon Fern): Moist, rich. 0. 
Claytoniana (Interrupted Fern): Move while dormant. 0. regalis. 
Peaty; branching; edges of brooks. 

Poly podium vulgare (Common polypody): Can be planted 
upon the ledges of gorges. 

Greenhouse Ferns and Lycopods 

ADIANTUM (Maidenhair) is one of the most important genera 
of ferns, as it contains several of our most popular decorative plants. 
There are nearly a hundred known species; many of these are in 
cultivation, besides numerous varieties and forms. There is great 
diversity of form in the fronds of different species. A. reniforme is 
simple and kidney shaped. Among others A. macrophyllum and 
A. periivianum have the fronds simply pinnate. In the greater 
number of species the fronds are much branched. Where large col- 
lections of ferns are grown it would be a difficult task to select the 
most beautiful and interesting kinds, as this genus above all others 
does not possess a single species but what is worthy of a place in 




Adiantum Croweaxum 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 



389 







Adiantum California 
Courtesy Henry A. Dreer, Inc., Philadelphia, Pa. 



the fernery. For decorative purposes A. cuneatum is more exten- 
sively grown than any other species. There are several well marked 
forms. A. c. Croweanum has very large fronds. A. gracillimum 
has the segments much smaller than in most species. A. c. mun- 
dulum is a dwarf garden form, well suited for using in fern dishes. 
A . c. variegatum has the pinnules faintly marked with creamy white. 
A. hispiduliim {puhescens) is a species much used in a young state, 
as it can be got up in quantity very readily. 

Plants in 2- and 3 -inch pots raised from spores have a very differ- 
ent appearance from those which have reached the adult stage. 
A. caudatum and A. lunulatum are well suited for planting in hang- 
ing baskets. Young plants are produced at the ends of the fronds, 
and when planted out among rocks in a greenhouse they soon cover 
a large space. A. Capillus-Vencris is one of the hardiest of the 
genus, but it has a very wide geographical distribution. It is the 
most useful of all ferns for growing on damp greenhouse walls. 



390 PLANT CULTURE 

There are numerous varieties; A. C.-V. imbricatum has very large 
pinnules; it is shy in producing spores, bj.it is easily increased by 
division of the rhizomes in the latter part of March. A. tencrum 
makes beautiful specimens in 5-inch pots, but it is a little tender for 
decorative work. Adiantum fronds will keep a much longer time 
after they are cut, if they be submerged in water for a few hours, 
than if used direct from the plant. 

Among the tall growing species A. trapeziforme is one of the most 
ornamental. It may frequently be met with in collections, and has 
fronds 3 to 4 feet long. A. t. pentadactylon is a well marked variety 
and should always be included in large collections; it stands well 
as a decorative plant. A. t. Sanctce-CatherincB is a dwarf variety, 
with the segments deeply cut. This species and its varieties are 
best increased by division of the crowns before starting into growth. 
Success in growing the important commercial fern A. Farley ense 
depends to a great extent on making a proper start with the small 
plants. It is labor lost in trying to make a healthy plant out of an 
unhealthy one, or from one which has got a setback from some 
cause, unless they be knocked out of the pots and split up into 
small pieces — the smaller the better, provided there are a few amall 
fronds attached to each piece and a probability of their making 
new roots. A variety, no doubt a sport or hybrid, which is attract- 
ing the attention of many florists is Cahfornia. It produces a great 
number of fronds which stand up nicely when cut. 

Propagation — Spores. A. cuneatum, A. pnhescens and many 
other species vegetate very quickly from spores. The principal 
points to be observed are to have the soil free from the lower forms 
of plant life, such as mosses and liverworts. Sow the spores very 
thinly. Keep the pans in which they are sown shaded from the sun, 
and the pans covered with glass until the first fronds appear. Dur- 
ing the process of germination the soil should not be watered from 
above, but by sinking the pans up to the rims in a pail of water. 
The spores will germinate in almost any kind of soil, but it should 
be somewhat porous and well drained. Sow in early Spring. The 
small heart shaped growth which comes from the spore is known 
as the prothallus or the sexual stage. The male and female organs 
are on the under surface. After fertilization takes place the young 
fern develops. 

Propagation by Division. A. cuneatum and its varieties are 
the Maidenhair ferns most largely grown. These and their allied 
species, which have become unsightly through cutting the fronds. 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 391 

on being repeatedly used in decorations during the Winter season, 
should, while in a dormant state, have all the fronds cut off and be 
placed 'n the coolest house, where they should be allowed to rest as 
long as possible. The appearance of the young fronds will serve 
as an indication as to how the plants should be split up previous to 
repotting. Put the pieces in 5-inch pots. In potting use a loam 
which is apt to get hard after watering; this, with a little sand and 
leaf soil, will give good results. In starting the plants they will not 
suffer by having the house almost without shade. A. Farleyense 
does not produce spores as most kinds of ferns do. The reason is 
because it is not a species, but merely an unfertile variety of a species 
said to be the well known A. tenerum; consequently the only method 
of propagation lies in dividing the old plants. Some growers split 
the crowns and pot the growing points in thumb pots, placing them 
in a frame or close shaded house. This method is not always satis- 
factory, for unless the points have fairly good live roots to start 
with, or show signs of immediately making fresh ones, their struggle 
for existence is apt to be a pretty tough one. The first batch may 
be started about the end of January or first half of February. Old 
plants from which the fronds were cut earlier in the sear>on, and which 
show little colonies of small fronds, are the best for the purpose. 
Wash every particle of soil from the roots, when it will be found 
there is a considerable quantity of dead but hard, wiry rhizomes 
just beneath the surface of the soil. This material, if potted up with 
pieces, hinders their growth and should be removed. Select only 
the rhizomes which have life in them and which have a frond, how- 
ever small, or a piece of frond attached. The work of separation 
should be done with the aid of a sharp pointed pair of scissors. 
Next put the pieces in a mixture of sand and moss, the latter rubbed 
through a No. 8 sieve; have the materials in equal parts. Water 
should be given very sparingly. To start the pieces into growth 
under the most favorable conditions they ought to be covered with 
glass until new roots and fronds push out. Thev may then be potted 
into 2-inch pots. 

ASPIDIUM. (See Polystichum, page 399.) 

ASPLENIUM. A very large genus. Only a very few of the 
species are extensively grown, but none of them is on the short list 
of the best decorative Ferns for florists. A. nidus, the Bird's Nest 
Fern, a native of Australia, is a striking species with very large, 
simple leaves. It must have perfect drainage, rather rough and 
fibry soil, and a stove temperature. 



392 PLANT CULTURE 

BLECHNUM (Lomaria). The Ferns formerly known as 
Lomarias are not classed under this genus. B. gibbum is a miniature 
Tree Fern forming very graceful rosettes of simply divided leaves. 
Of this species there are one or two handsome forms. L. g. Belli has 
the points of the pinnae beautifully tasseled. L. g. robusta is of a 
robust growing nature. A species closely allied ioL. gibbum, known 
as L. ciliata, has shorter and stouter fronds. The plant is quite as 
useful and as easily raised from spores as L. gibbum. The plants are 
useful even in a very small state, as the foliage is different from that 
of most other Ferns grown in quantity for decorative purposes. 

Propagation. Old plants produce fertile fronds in abundance, 
and if the spores are harvested and sown at the proper time, they 
vegetate very quickly. By this method of increase, plants in 5-inch 
pots may be produced in 1 2 months from sowing. 

CIBOTIUM. The Cibotiums are Tree Ferns of which there 
are several handsome species. C. Schiedci and C. regale are natives 
of Mexico. The fronds are of a Hght shade of green and very much 
divided, those of young plants arching gracefully. It stands well in 
a dry atmosphere. 

Propagation, Young plants come readily from spores. Old 
plants sometimes make numerous growths at the base of the stem. 
If these are taken off with a few roots attached and put in the sand 
bed for a few weeks they make specimen plants very quickly. 

CYRTOMIUM (Holly Fern). C. falcatum, together with C. 
Fortunei and A. caryotidcum are among the hardiest of the Ferns 
used for decorating, for which purpose they are much grown. C. /. 
var. Rochfordianum has more deeply cut foliage than C. falcatum. 
The coolest house will do for the plants after they are of the requisite 
size. The fronds are simply pinnate, the pinnules resembling, to 
a certain extent, the leaf divisions of the Fish-tail Palm, Caryota 
urens. 

Propagation. Young plants are raised from spores. 

DAVALLIA (Rabbit's Foot Fern). A genus of Ferns having 
scaly rhizomes which usually creep along the surface of the soil and 
send out roots from their under surfaces. Of the few species grown 
D.fijiensis var. plumosa is one of the most ornamental, having very 
finely divided fronds. It must be grown in a warm house. As it 
is not a deep rooting plant pans or baskets should be used according 
to the purpose for which the plants are wanted. D. bullata, D: 
pentaphylla, and D. dissecta are well adapted for baskets. Those 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 



393 




Cyrtomium Rochfordianum 
In 4-in. pots. Useful as table fern and for filling in. 



made of wire should be selected, so that the rhizomes, as they 
lengthen, may be pegged against the side. D. parvula is an exceed- 
ingly pretty dwarf growing species for a warm greenhouse. D. 
Mariesii is the species used in making up "Fern Balls." It is decidu- 
ous and should be kept moist enough in Winter to prevent the 
rhizomes from shrivelling. D. pallida (Mooreana) is a desirable 
plant for house decoration, but is not grown in quantity, owing to 
the difficulty of getting up a large stock within a reasonable time. 
Those in a starved condition make the best stock plants. 

Propagation. Spores sown in a mixture of moist sphagnum, 
sand and leafmold grow readily. The large plants while dormant 
may be divided. 

DICKSONIA. The stems of D. antardica are sometimes im- 
ported in a dormant state. When placed in a cool, moist house in 
pots only large enough to accommodate them, they usually start 
into growth. 

Propagation. Young plants are raised from spores sown in a 
cool, shaded greenhouse. They sometimes germinate freely sown 



394 PLANT CULTURE 

on the stems of the old plants. The fronds are of a leathery texture, 
and the plants stand much rough treatment. 

DRYNARIA. In the Washington Botanic Garden the late 
W. R. Smith built a small but ornate rockwork in one of the show 
houses leading from the Palm house about 40 years ago, the idea 
being to grow ferns in it. Drynaria quercijolia was one of the num- 
ber and it has continued in splendid condition since that time. 
The stems adhere to the stone work with the aid of small roots. 
The Drynaria is one of the most graceful of the climbing ferns, 
especially where it has a chance to get a hold upon stonework. 

Propagation. The species is increased by putting small pieces 
of rhizome in leafmold and sand, using 4-inch pots. 

MICROLEPIA (Davallia). The Microlepias resemble the 
Davallias. M. hirta var. cristata is one of the handsomest of crested 
Ferns, capable of being grown into very large, symmetrical speci- 
mens. To have it at its best it needs a warm temperature. Water 
should be kept from the fronds, as they are quite hairy and are apt 
to turn brown when kept wet. 

Propagation. Increased by division. 

NEPHROLPEIS (Boston Ferns). The species and forms 
are for the most part plants with tough, leathery fronds, enabling 
them to be used with little injury for decorating or house plants. 
Several varieties are largely grown. The most popular are forms 
of N. exaltata. N. e. hostoniensis, the Boston Fern, is an old 
and deservedly popular plant which is very extensively employed 
as a decorative plant. Large specimens are well adapted for 
placing on pedestals, or hanging from the roof of a large con- 
servatory. Within recent years many remarkable wavy and 
plumed varieties of this fern have made their appearance and 
are much grown as decorative plants; these are known as Piersoniy 
Scottii, Amerpohli, Whitmani, ScholzeU, elegantissima,Goodii, Roose- 
velt, Teddy, Jr., muscosa, and others. N. cordijolia, when well 
grown, is an elegant decorative subject. The typical form is much 
smaller than the above mentioned species and varieties. The fronds 
are narrow and the leaf divisions close together, but, like some of 
the others, it varies much. One of the varieties produces tubers; 
the fronds in this case are large and may be mistaken for those of 
N. exaltata. N. c. pectinata is a well known variety, having the 
fronds narrow and drooping. When matured it is usually grown in 
baskets suspended from the roof of a greenhouse. Useful specimens 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 



395 



may also be grown in 5 -inch pots. N. acuminata (davallioides) is 
somewhat coarse in growth. It needs careful handhng while the 
fertile fronds are developing. Moderate sized specimens do not show 
this plant at its best, as it is the very long, fertile fronds on plants 
several feet across which make it attractive. The plant known as 
N. davallioides Jurcans is a crested form. When planted out on 
benches it gives off plants from runners in the same manner as the 
Boston Fern, but not so plentifully. Old specimens may be divided, 
and the pieces put thickly together on a bench, in leafmold and sand, 
to make a little growth before potting. N. biserrata {acuta) is a 
stout growing and distinct species; the fronds are sometimes 16 
inches broad and from 2 to 4 feet long. It makes but few fronds 
when compared with some of the others. It must have abundant 
root room. 

Propagation. Many of the sorts are propagated by division 
of old plants; others produce runners which root and produce 3'oung 




Nephrolepis Teddy, Jr. 
Courtesy Brooklyn (N. Y.) Botanic Garden. 



396 PLANT CULTURE 

plants; for this purpose the plants are set into greenhouse benches 
so that the runners have an opportunity to root. 

ONYCHIUM. Of this genus two species are commonly grown 
for decorative purposes; the fronds are very much divided. 0. 
aiiratum is the largest, but O. japonicum is the handsomest. 

Propagation. Both are easily increased from spores; or the 
old plants may be divided, but only to make large specimens. 

PLATYCERIUM (Stag Horn Fern). From their wonderful 
resemblance to the antlers of a stag well grown plants of the Platy- 
ceriums never fail to attract attention. The species called P. 
grande is the most striking of the number. A native of the northern 
part of Australia it needs more heat than most of the others. In 
P. angolense, the fronds are not divided like a stag horn. P. Wal- 
lichii, P. CBthiopicum (catalogued as P. Stemmaria), P. Hillii, and 
P. alcicorne are also frequently seen. 

Culture. While they succeed pretty well in pots they do better 
and look more natural when grown on blocks of wood. Some forked 
limbs of trees should be cut up on which to fasten the plants. The 
pieces should be in the neighborhood of i8 inches in length. Drive 
in a few nails here and there; place some rough peat and moss 
against the wood; put the plant in position and wire it firmly, pack- 
ing in portions of the peat and moss wherever possible. Most sorts, 
except P. alcicorne, like a warm house. 

Propagation. P. grande can only be propagated in quantity 
from the spores, which are found in a large mass underneath the 
primary division of the frond. Raising young plants in this way is 
not a difficult operation, but one that requires lots of patience. A 
pan should be prepared containing fibry peat, chopped fine; add a 
liberal quantity of finely broken brick, charcoal, and coarse sand. 
The pan should be placed in a flat of water so that the mixture may 
derive moisture from beneath. Water should never be given over- 
head, as germination depends, to a great extent, on the spores re- 
maining in the same spot until the prothallus begins to form. Most 
other sorts incrfase rapidly from the roots, many bud like processes 
forming on the surfaces and sending up tiny leaves. These young 
plants may be removed when an inch or two high, and potted singly 
in small pots. 

POLYPODIUM. This is the largest genus of the order, and 
includes many plants which have long been known under other 
generic names. These names are in common use, and it is likely 



FERNS AND LYCOPODS 397 

that they will continue to be employed for a long time. Some of the 
better known are Campyloneuron, Cryptosorus, Drynaria, Gonio- 
phlehiiirn, Goniopteris, Lepicysfis, Niphobolus, Phegopteris, Phle- 
bodium and Pleopeltis. There is a great number of exceedingly 
beautiful plants among the species. The varieties, especially those 
of the common Polypody, P. vulgare, are among the handsomest of 
hardy Ferns, but they are not so much grown in America as in 
Europe, where they do grandly in outdoor ferneries. 

P. (Phlebodium) aureum should be more grown for decorative 
purposes, as it will stand a dry atmosphere and is very graceful. 
The fronds are from 2 to 4 feet in length, and from 9 to 18 inches 
broad, simply divided. It grows most luxuriantly among Fern root, 
peat and moss. There is a form called P. a. sporadocarpum with 
fronds very glaucous, almost blue, usually growing from 12 to 18 
inches high — a handsome plant, showing up well under gaslight. 
It needs more heat than the t3'pe. P. a. Mattdaianum is a superior 
variety with wavy leaves. The spores on a small frond will raise 
thousands of plants. They should be sown on very finely chopped 
Fern roots mixed with screened moss. The rhizomes may also be 
divided. 

P. Phymatodes is a rhizomatous species of very rapid growth, 
with exceedingly graceful leaves. The fronds are deeply pinnatifid, 
the fertile ones narrowest. One of the uses to which this Fern may 
be put is in training against damp walls or on the dead stems of 
Tree Ferns. It is easiest propagated by taking pieces of the rhizomes 
with fronds attached and pegging down in 4- or 5-inch pots of sandy 
soil. 

P. {Drynaria) rigiduliim is a species too seldom seen. It has 
two kinds of fronds very different from each other; the barren ones 
are about 9 inches in length, divided half way to the midrib, form- 
ing blunt lobes. The fertile ones reach a height of from 2 to 4 feet, and 
are 12 to 18 inches broad. A very handsome plant for collections. 

P. (Goniophlebium) sub-auriculatum makes one of the finest 
basket plants for a warm greenhouse. The fronds are several feet 
in length and drooping. This Fern is not difficult to grow, provided 
it be given a fibrous soil and an abundant supply of water during 
the period of growth. It is helped along wonderfully by adding to 
the soil some finely crushed bone with the minute particles washed 
out, only saving the rougher material in the process of washing. 
This substance, by the way, is of great service as permanent food 
for many of the Ferns, but the deleterious matter must be removed 
by washing. 



398 



PLANT CULTURE 




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FERNS AND LYCOPODS 399 

P. (Niphobolus, also called Cyclophorus) lingua, from Northern 
India and Japan, is almost hardy and one of the best for house 
culture. There are three forms: one variegated, P. I. variegata, 
another crested, P. I. corymbifera, the third having the largest 
fronds. The fronds are undivided, very feathery in texture and 
remain in good condition for more than a year. All of them are 
very readily increased by division. 

P. Heracleum and P. conjugatum are suitable for a warm con- 
servatory. When well grown they are odd and attractive. The 
very thick rhizomes grow on the surface of the soil and accommodate 
themselves in a wonderful way to a limited rooting area by growing 
in coils. 

POLYSTIGHUM (Aspidium). There are many species culti- 
vated indoors, most prominent among which are P. Tsus-sinense 
(incorrectly spelled tensemense in catalogues), a miniature fern for 
fern dishes. P. capense is a good, hardy, ornamental Fern for 
decorative purposes, one that is cheaply raised and not easily 
spoiled. From a well filled 6- or 8-inch pot several dozen plants may 
be raised within a few months. It requires but little heat in Winter. 
P. proliferum is a species which produces small plantlets upon the 
fronds. 

PTERIS. There are many good decorative plants in this genus, 
all of which are easy to propagate. Most of them may be grown in 
ordinary greenhouse temperature. Of P. serrulata, much used in 
a small state, there are numerous forms, some of which have beau- 
tifully crested fronds and others variegated. P. cretica alho-lineata 
is one of the finest of all variegated Ferns. The barren fronds are 
nearest the base of the plant; they are shorter and broader than the 
fertile ones. A broad band of creamy white occupies the middle of 
each leaf division. This Fern comes true from the spores. P. 
quadriaurita, a variable species. The most useful form is known as 
P. q. argyrcea, having a white mark down the center of each frond — 
a very useful variety in a small state. Pteris tremida is best for using 
in pots not under 5-inch. It is one of the quickest raised from spores. 
There are crested forms. The one named P. t. Smithiana has been 
in the trade for several years. P. Wallichiana and P. iiKBqualifolia 
(the latter evidently related to P. semipinnata) are coarse growing. 
P. hastata and P. macrophylla have very dark green fronds. Both 
are very liable to insect attacks, unless grown cool. They are both 
useful in 2- and 3-inch pots. 



400 



PLANT CULTURE 




FERNS AND LYCOPODS 401 

SELAGINELLA. Although not related to Ferns, some of the 
species have a striking resemblance to these plants. Low growing 
species commonly grown to cover the soil under benches or grown in 
flat pans are S. denticulata, S. Kraussiana, S. Emmeliana and ^S. 
Martensii. S. Kraussiana is a dense growing moss like species, 
much used for covering the soil in pots in which other plants are 
growing, in Fern dishes, and for the borders of conservatory beds. 
6*. K. aurea has yellow foHage. S. K. variegata is green and white. 
In propagating this species and its forms it should not be broken 
up into little tufts and potted, as is usually the case. Take single 
growths and put, say three of them, in a 3-inch pot; in a short time 
they will develop enough growth to cover the soil. S. Emmeliana, 
one of the best for supplying small plants for mixing with Ferns, is 
increased by breaking up the mature fronds into small pieces, and 
scattering these on the surface of a box or bed of sandy soil, which 
should be kept moist and shaded from the sun. Every small piece 
will make a plant. S. Martensii, a Mexican species, is one of those 
most frequently grown. It is exceedingly easy to propagate, as long 
aerial roots are made from the stems. Cuttings, say about 4 inches 
in length, will root well if put in small pots and kept close; or to fill 
large pans, and have them present a well furnished appearance in 
a short time, root the pieces in sand, afterward putting directly in 
the pans. An interesting species, S. lepidophylla, is the well known 
"Resurrection Plant," which, when dry, curls up into a ball, and 
which uncurls when placed in water. S. ccesia arborea is a climbing 
species very suitable for rambling over rustic work in a moist con- 
servatory. Where its aerial roots are allowed to fasten themselves 
to suitable material it grows into a dense, irregular mass of lovely 
bluish green foliage. S. viticulosa grows about 8 inches high, is al- 
ways bright green. An easily divided plant and useful in a small 
state. 5*. erythropus is a useful species with reddish stems reaching 
a height of about 9 inches. 

Culture. Theii cultural requirements are almost similar to those 
of the Ferns. They do best in shade, and with a few exceptions they 
need a rather warm atmosphere, especially while making their new 
growth. 

Propagation. They may be propagated from spores, division 
of the crowns, or from cuttings. Propagation by spores is seldom 
attempted, as dividing the plants and rooting from cuttings will 
give an abundant supply. 



CHAPTER XV 

Water Plants— Waterside Plants 



Plants Adapted to Waterside Planting. In order to give a 
naturalistic appearance to the water garden some plants, especially 
perennials, should be planted in the moist soil bordering the pond. 
The following perennials are useful: Acorus (The Sweet Flag), 
Arundo (p. 415), Caltha{ Marsh Marigold), Cimicifuga, Cyperus 
(p. 41 'j),Eupatorium, Iris Kaempferi, I. sibirica, I. pseudo-acoriis and 
/. versicolor (p. ig^), Lobelia (p. 201), Lythrum (p. 203), Mertensia 
(p. 203), Monarda (p. 203), Myosotis (p. 204), Sarracenia (p. 214) 
Saxafraga (p. 214), Thalictrum, Typha (Cat-tail), Zizania (p. 422.) 
For shrub planting use several of the following: Azalea canadense 
or viscosum (p. 295), Kalmia angustifolia (p. 318), Chamcedaphne, 
Ledum, Andromeda, Clethra, Chionanthus (p. 301), Magnolia glauca 
(p. 323), Vaccinium corymbosiim, Cornus stolonijera, Sa?nbucus 
racemosa (Red Elder), Salix (Willow) and Viburnum cassinoides 

(P- 2>i(>)' 

Labels for Water Plants. Labels for pots under the surface 
of the water, if of the ordinary wooden kind, only remain in good 
condition for a short time, and then the writing becomes obHterated. 
With the constantly increasing number of Nymphaeas and Nelum- 
biums, one must be well acquainted with the names of the species 
and varieties to tell them by their leaves, but when in a dormant 
state it is impossible to tell some of the kinds from others. A simple 
method of getting around this difficulty is to have labels made of 
strips of sheet copper, with a number stamped across the top, the 
number to correspond with a numbered list of the species and va- 
rieties kept in a book. The numbers and names should also be 
written on a piece of board and nailed up where it may be con- 
veniently referred to. These labels last for years, and may be used 
as often as necessary. In Water Lily ponds, whether the plants are 
labeled above water or not, those intended to be removed to their 
Winter quarters should have the name secured by nailing a strip 
of the copper along the top of a stout wooden label, with the number 

402 



WATER PLANTS— WATERSIDE PLANTS 403 

belonging to the kind punched on the copper. With copper and 
punches conveniently at hand no more time will be used than in 
writing an ordinary label. This method is a safe one also, where 
a permanent label is desired for preserving the names of outdoor 
vines, shrubs and trees. 

ACORUS (Variegated Sweet Flag). A grassy looking plant, 
with finely marked leaves. It is well suited for growing on the mar- 
gins of artificial lakes; few other places will keep it in a healthy state 
unless the soil be moist and partly shaded. The commonest in cul- 
tivation is the A. calamus variegatus. The leaves are striped deep 
yellow when young, fading to a paler color later in Summer. A. 
gramineus variegatus is an exceedingly handsome little variegated 
plant, growing only a few inches high. It will thrive in much drier 
soil than the first named species. It makes a great number of grassy 
looking growths, so that division is an easy matter at almost any 
time. 

Propagation. It should be propagated by division of the 
rhizomes as growth commences in Spring. 

APONOGETON (Includes Ouvirandra). A. distachyus is not 
a greenhouse plant, but, where opportunities ofTer, it certainly 
should be grown as such. Out of doors it is nicely grown at the 
edges of Lily ponds, where it blooms all Summer. It is known as 
the Cape Pond Weed. The flowers, arranged much in the same 
way as those of the Ouvirandra, have large, showy white bracts; 
very sweet smelling. In its native haunts the seeds germinate on 
the surface of the water, forming very small tubers which, when the 
leaves decay, sink to the bottom of the pond and become established 
there. A. {Ouvirandra) feneslralis is the Lattice Leaf Plant of 
Madagascar. The leaves are skeletonized so that the veins are the 
only parts of the leaves. This unique subject thrives best when the 
leaves are near the surface of the water. The pots should be sub- 
merged from 4 to 6 inches. The temperature of the water should 
never be below 65 degrees, but it should be kept at least 10 degrees 
higher most of the time. A wide tub and one about 14 inches 
deep, will suffice for the plant's needs. The tub should be placed 
in the warmest part of the house, and shaded from the sun at all 
seasons. It is not particular as to soil, growing in any ordinary pot- 
ting mixture. Loam, sand and a little half-rotted manure, topped 
ofif with fine sand, produce good results. When in an evidently 
dormant state the plant will, no matter at what season, begin to send 
up new leaves when given a shift, or the ball reduced and fresh soil 



404 PLANT CULTURE 

afforded. When the plant shows signs of going back take it out of 
the pot and wash most of the soil from the roots; give fresh soil, 
moderately rich, and replace it under water. Plants which have 
been growing for some time usually have several crowns. It does 
not do the plant any harm in the least to wash the soil from every 
part of the roots and divide it into several pieces, placing each 
part in 4-inch pots. Its greatest enemies are the lower forms of vegeta- 
tion which cling to the leaves. To check these, keep the plant in 
total darkness for a few days. 

Propagation. By division, and from seeds. 

AZOLLA. A. caroliniana is a floating aquatic closely allied to 
Salvinia natans. The plants are very small, but increase very rapidly 
when growing on the surface of the water. In water of a tempera- 
ture above 60 degrees F. the plants are bright green, but in lower 
temperatures they are partly of a reddish tinge. They should be 
wintered in water out of the reach of frost. They are useful for 
aquariums. 

CABOMBA (Fish Grass). For the aquarium and small pool 
C. caroliniana is, perhaps, as commonly used as any plant. Dealers 
sell bunches of cuttings which only last a few weeks unless placed 
in soil. Unlike the Myriophyllum, the Cabombas are entirely sub- 
merged. They act as purifiers for the water in fish globes. 

EICHHORNIA (The Water Hyacinth). Eichhomia crassipes 
may be utilized as a most attractive tub plant in the following man- 
ner: Put, say, three plants in as many 5-inch pots of rich soil; fill 
a tub with water and sink the pots just under the surface. Beyond 
wanting water to replace that lost by evaporation they will take 
care of themselves; the surface will become a thick mass of plants, 
with fresh flowers opening every morning. Although this plant 
floats on water naturally, without the roots being fixed in soil, it 
also flourishes in saturated ground at a surprising rate, keeps a 
fresh, green appearance, and produces myriads of flowers; it is w-ell 
worth a trial for unsightly marshy spots. E. aziirea is an interesting 
relative of the above, with darker colored flowers. It is useful for 
planting around the margins of ponds, covering quite a large water 
surface during a Summer's growth. Both species are easily kept 
over Winter by placing a few on the surface of a warm tank. The 
Eichhornias have become a pest in St. John's River, Fla., w^here 
they have grown so abundantly as to make the river unnavigable, 
but there is no danger of its becoming a pest in the North. 



WATER PLANTS— WATERSIDE PLANTS 405 

Propagation. They increase very rapidly during early Spring 
and are readily divided. 

LIMNOCHARIS (Water Poppy). The proper name for this 
plant is Hydrocleis nymphoides, but it is commonly catalogued as 
L. Hiimboldtii. The species is useful for planting where the water 
is only a few inches deep. The flowers are yellow, about 2 inches in 
diameter. The plants must be wintered indoors. When grown in 
shallow water during Summer, it is not necessary to keep them under 
water during Winter. All that is required is to prepare a box of 
moist loam; put the plants in this, in rows, close together; give a 
good watering and stand the box under the bench of a warm house 
where it will get a fair amount of light. They will make a new set 
of short stalked leaves ere long, and remain in good condition for 
planting out in the Spring. 

MYRIOPHYLLUM (Parrot's Feather). M. proserpina- 
coides as grown in Washington has been seen by millions of people 
for the past 10 or 15 years on the north side of the Treasury Building 
in the upper basin of a small fountain. A few pieces of this sub- 
aquatic are placed in this fountain and anchored to pieces of brick, 
the result being a dense mass of bright feathery growth several feet 
in length, making a most pleasing appearance until the arrival of 
frosty weather. 

Propagation. They are readily rooted from cuttings placed 
in the mud of a pool or aquarium. 

NELUMBIUM. There are at least two species, N. speciosum 
(also called N. nucifera) and iV. luteum, besides several forms of 
the first named, differing from it principally in the colors of the 
flowers. N. speciosum, incorrectly called the Egyptian Lotus; it 
bears pink, red or white flowers; its forms are the best for growing 
in ponds and fountain basins. N. luteum is the American Lotus and 
bears yellow flowers. The latter species is often crowded out by A^. 
speciosum. During Summer they make very long underground 
stems, and, on the approach of cold weather, form thick resting 
tubers at the ends of which are one or more dormant buds. Ne- 
lumbiums need an abundance of rich soil for their perfect develop- 
ment. When grown in a cramped space comparatively few flowers 
are produced. The flowers are from 8 inches to a foot across. 
They are borne on long, rigid stems well out of the water. The 
leaves have an exceedingly ornamental appearance, being peltate 
and standing a considerable distance out of the water. In this 
way they differ from Nymphaea. The first few leaves float the on 



4o6 



PLANT CULTURE 




WATER PLANTS— WATERSIDE PLANTS 407 

surface, but as the shoots gain strength they rise 2 and 3 feet above 
the surface. 

Raising Plants from Seed. This is a very certain method of 
increasing the supply of plants, not only for planting out the same 
season, but as a convenient form in which to keep plants for sale. 
The seeds have a very hard covering, and before putting them in 
water this covering should be pierced either with the point of a 
knife or by the aid of a file. A very small opening will suffice in 
causing them to germinate in a few days. About the end of March 
sow fairly thick in a shallow seed pan, sinking it about 6 inches be- 
neath the surface in a warm tank. After the seedlings have made 
the first leaf put each in a 3-inch pot. They can be planted out of 
these; or, if necessary, shift into 6-inch pots; in these they will pass 
the Summer and in the Fall form one or more small tubers. 

Starting Dormant Tubers. Attempts to start the dormant 
tubers of Nelumbiums after removal often result in disappointment. 
The operation of digging them up and replanting has an effect upon 
them sufficient to prevent their breaking into growth with the same 
certainty that would have followed had they been left undisturbed. 
Especially is it a risky performance to plant out the tubers early 
in the season. It is well to let the tubers float on the surface of an 
indoor tank, or tub, on which the sun has full play; they soon 
begin to form roots quite freely, and when put out by the middle of 
May or beginning of June, according to locality, they continue to 
grow very luxuriantly, making even greater progress than those 
which have succeeded in starting outside. 

Insect Enemies are not numerous; there is one moth, however, 
which causes great trouble, especially in the vicinity of long estab- 
lished colonies of the American species, N. luteiim. This insect 
deposits its eggs on the leaves, and on hatching the caterpillars at- 
tack the outer edges principally, rolling the leaves inward as they 
develop. Another favorite point of attack is the stem of the leaf. 
Beginning at the top the caterpillar will eat out the interior part for 
several inches. In large collections it is a serious matter to attempt 
to combat this pest, but where there are only a few plants hand 
picking will prevent them doing much injury. 

NYMPHi^A (Pond Lily. Water Lily). When anything 
like fair treatment is given most of the species and varieties of 
Nymphaeas grow very rapidly and flower abundantly. There are 
only one or two kinds which are backward in this respect, and 
unfortunately they are the most handsome ones of the genus. N. 



4o8 



PLANT CULTURE 




Fig. 23 — Viviparous Leaf of Nymphaea 



gigantea, a light blue flowered species from Australia, and the rose 
colored variety of N. alba, are the principal offenders. The former 
can be managed but, not with the same treatment as is given the 
other blue flowered species. It is the largest and much the finest 
of all the species and their numerous varieties even rivaling the 
Victoria regia in size of flower. It has been grown in Washington 
with flowers 16 inches in diameter. It is just as easily propagated 
as any of the other species; plant the tubers in stiff but rich loam, 
preferably in 5-inch pots, and have the top of the tuber at least 
one inch below the surface of the soil and use the tubers only as 
breeders. As soon as they send up growths with leaves about 4 or 
5 inches in diameter we may then be sure that they have consider- 
able root systems. Then, with the forefinger, get hold of the parent 
tuber and remove it without damaging the roots of the new plant 
or plants, because fair sized tubers give as many as four shoots at a 
time. In a short time the first growths will develop other tubers 
and the original tubers will again send out shoots. It will be seen 
that when we have a dozen or more tubers to start with we should 
be able to raise quite a large number in the course of a year. The 
point is, never to have the tubers lying idle, and always sell the 



WATER PLANTS— WATERSIDE PLANTS 409 

plants instead of the tubers. I have raised 3 2 tubers within a year, 
starting only with a single tuber. N. gigantea is the aristocrat among 
the Nymphaeas; her ways are not the ways of the common herd, but 
she responds heartily to the will of the propagator when she is 
understood. With N. alba rosea the trouble seems to be caused by 
our hot Summers. However, there are numerous other species and 
many hybrid forms which require much less attention than the 
majority of other classes of plants to bring them to perfection. Of 
these about half are tender; the others will stand the Winters suc- 
cessfully if the crowns are low enough in the water to be out of the 
reach of frost. Or if they be grown in places from which the water 
has to be drawn in Winter, the plants may be covered with some 
protecting material. But the question of just how much cold the 
various kinds will stand has not been ascertained. 

The tender kinds are divided into two well defined sections — 
day blooming and night blooming. In the day blooming section we 
have N. (flavo-vircns) gracilis y white; N. capensis, N. stellatay with 
numerous forms ranging from colors almost blue to deep rose; N. 
ampla {pulcherrima) produces flowers exactly similar to those from 
plants raised from seed of N. (Jiavo-virens) , which have evidently 
been fertilized by pollen from forms of N. stellata; N. elegansj a 
Mexican species, has purplish flowers; N. gigantea^ a light blue- 
flowered species from Australia, has the largest blooms of all, some- 
times attaining a diameter of 16 inches. 

The night blooming section is represented by N. Lotus, N. 
rubra, N. rubra {devoniensis), N. dentata and N. rubra Sturtevantii. 
Most of the other sorts are cross-bred forms between N. Lotus and 
N. rubra. All of the tender kinds have thick, swollen root stocks, 
while the hardy species, with one or two exceptions, have thick, 
fleshy rhizomes. 

Among the hardy sorts N. odorata is the one most commonly 
grown for its flowers. A form of this is known as the Cape Cod 
Water Lily; N. odorata rosea has bright rose colored flowers; N. 0. 
sulphurea, N. Marliacea chromatella and N . tuberosa flavescens have 
yellow flowers; N. Marliacea albida and N. alba are pure white. A 
hybrid race of which N. Laydekeri rosea is the best known, has 
several named kinds with rather odd colors, but they are less de- 
sirable than some of the better known varieties. They are, however, 
well suited for growing in tubs half filled with soil, and the remaining 
space with water. 

SoiL All of the species and varieties will thrive in loam two 
parts and one part half-rotted cow manure. Another good me- 



4IO 



PLANT CULTURE 




NyMPH/EAS 



WATER PLANTS— WATERSIDE PLANTS 411 

dium is formed by adding a 5-inch potful of bonemeal to a bushel 
of loam. 

Starting Tubers into Growth. The tubers of the tender 
Nymphaeas should be started not later than the beginning of April. 
Each tuber should be put in a 5-inch pot, using pure loam. The 
tuber may be covered with about an inch of soil and a further layer 
of half an inch of sand, and put in a tank of water at a temperature 
of from 65 to 70 degrees. After a few leaves have been made the 
growth should be separated from the tuber and repotted, as this 
prevents numerous shoots developing when planted out and secures 
a strong, single growth. This applies to all of the tender sorts. 
The tubers may be pushed back in the 5 -inch pots, where they will 
continue sending up fresh shoots; these, or as many as wanted, may 
be potted in 4-inch pots and allowed to go to rest in them. Tubers 
thus formed should be kept for stock purposes, instead of old 
plants. 

Summer Quarters. In this latitude it is safe to put out the 
tenderest kinds after the loth of May. Each plant, whether grown 
in sunken tubs, boxes, or planted in the bottom of the pond, should 
have at least three bushels of prepared soil to grow them well. One 
foot beneath the surface is a safe distance; but they will thrive 
much deeper. 

Starting Hardy Nymphaeas. By the beginning of April any 
of the hardy Nymphaeas, which it is necessary to increase or replant, 
should get attention before they make too much headway. In divid- 
ing up such kinds as N. helvola and the pink varieties of N. odorata 
with small rhizomes, such as N. odorata rosea and N. exquisita, or 
the small pieces of N. Marliacea chromatella, it is safest to start the 
pieces in pots so that they will make a few leaves before being trans- 
ferred to their permanent quarters. Such kinds as N. alba, N. a. 
candidissima, N. Marliacea albida, N. M. rosea, and N. M. carnea 
have very large rhizomes, and there is little danger but that they 
will give a good account of themselves after being divided and 
planted out. 

Wintering Tender Water Lilies. From the 15th to the end 
of October the tender Water Lilies should be taken indoors for the 
Winter. Where there are small plants or tubers of the tender day 
blooming species and varieties, such as N. Zanzibar ensis, its varieties 
as azurea and rosea, the Australian N. gigantea, N. ccerulea and N. 
capensis, let the old ones go, as they are difficult to keep over the 
Winter, except in a large greenhouse tank. Small, dormant tubers 



412 PLANT CULTURE 

of any of the above can be started in the Spring, and by careful ma- 
nipulation they will give several plants each, which will afford as 
much, if not more, satisfaction than would the older plants. Another 
matter which should be kept in mind concerning the above kinds is 
that they do not form small tubers at the sides of the large ones 
made during the growing season. The reverse is the case with such 
species and forms as N. dentata, N. devoniensis, N. rubra, N. rubra 
Sturtevantii, N. Omarana, N. columbiana, N. Deaniana, N. deli- 
catissima and N. Smithiana. These are all tender, night blooming 
kinds and form tubers around the sides of the parent tuber or root 
stock; they are very irregular in shape, not at all resembling the pear 
shaped tuber of a young starved plant. After the display of flowers 
is over for the season, cut off the leaves close to the crown, and with 
a spade cut off the roots about 6 inches from the crown; lift the clump 
and put beneath the stage of a warm house. The central part will 
decay in a short time, and before this actually happens the tubers 
may be gathered and stored for the Winter. N. gracilis and N. 
pulcherrima, white and blue, respectively, will keep easily, if the old 
root stocks are saved, as they do not decay so easily as the other 
tender day bloomers. 

When it is necessary to keep old plants of the above named day 
bloomers other than N. gracilis and N. pulcherrima, lift the smallest 
of the plants, save as many roots and leaves as possible, pot them and 
sink in a tank, the water of which does not fall below 50 degrees F. 
There are several methods of keeping the small tubers of the tender 
Nymphaeas over Winter. Those from the night bloomers should not 
be removed in a hurry, as the wound made by separating is apt to 
be slow in heahng, and the riper the tubers when the w'ork is done 
the greater the success. They keep well in damp moss, on the floor 
of a warm house. If they are starved tubers, that is, of the Pear 
shaped form, there is little fear of decay setting in, for then there 
are no wounds to heal as in the case of detached tubers. They may 
be then kept dry, but warm. Probably the safest plan, and the one 
which I adopt, is to put each kind in a pot of sand and sink in a 
warm tank. 

Raising Hardy Kinds from Seeds. N. pygmcea seeds very 
freely, in fact, every flower may be depended upon to ripen a cap- 
sule; but if there is an overflow to the pond the seeds are very apt to 
get lost, as they float on the surface after being liberated from the 
capsule. If gathered before this takes place, and the pulpy material 
removed from around them, they may be thrown in a part of the 
pond where they are likely to germinate. N. caroliniana, N . tu- 



WATER PLANTS— WATERSIDE PLANTS 413 




Victoria Regia 



berosa, N. odorata and one or two of its varieties sat seeds freely, 
but as they increase so easily from rhizomes there is little need of 
raising seedlings. Marliac's hybrids are evidently sterile, although 
the pollen in those tested is good. Some of these hybrids do not per- 
mit of division of the root stocks, and the probable reason why they 
cannot be propagated in this country is, one of the parents of the 
hybrids being so difficult to grow here it is unavailable for the pur- 
pose of pollination. N. lutea and N. mexicana seed somewhat 
sparingly, but both kinds have two methods of resting during Win- 
ter, so that raising plants from seed is not necessary. When seed is 
sown, however, it is best kept dry until wanted for sowing. On first 
appearance the young seedlings resemble small blades of grass, 
usually of a dark color; they may be allowed to make a few small 
leaves before being pricked off. When they make leaves about an 
inch or more in diameter each seedHng should be put into a 3-inch 
pot and subsequently into a 5-inch pot; after this they make rapid 
growth and may be planted out where they are to bloom. 



414 PLANT CULTURE 

Victoria (Royal Water Lily). There are two species com- 
monly cultivated, namely, V. regia and V. Cruziana, the latter usu- 
ally known as V. Trickeri. V. regia has leaves over 6 feet in diameter. 
The leaf of V. r. var. Randii is much less in diameter, but more 
turned up at the margins; that of V. Trickeri, in size, is intermediate 
between the two. The Victorias are grown as annuals, the seeds be- 
ing sown about the beginning of January, and kept in water at a 
temperature of at least 80 degrees. The first leaves are grass like, 
gradually assuming the peltate form. The young plants should be 
encouraged to make all the growth possible before being put out of 
doors. In this latitude we plant them out about May 20, and treat 
them in every respect like tender Nymphaeas. Each plant should 
get at least a couple of cartloads of prepared soil, to have the 
plants at their best. 




CHAPTER XVI 

Ornamental Grasses 



ANDROPOGON (Lemon Grass). The leaves of A. Schoen- 
aiithus when bruised emit a fragrance much resembling that of the 
Lemon Verbena. It is a tender evergreen. When planted out in 
Summer the growth is very rapid even in dry soils. As a pot plant 
it has a well defined ornamental appearance, and stands well in a 
dwelling house. 

Propagation. It is propagated by division at any time of the 
year. The pieces should be placed in wet sand for a few days pre- 
vious to potting to encourage new roots to form. 

ARUNDO (Giant Reed). The tallest of our herbaceous 
Grasses {A . Donax) grows under favorable conditions to a height of 
25 feet and flowers late in Summer. A very ornamental plant for 
the centers of large beds, or for isolated groups on wide borders or 
lawns. As it increases very rapidly at the root the rhizome like 
growth may be divided just as the new shoots make their appear- 
ance above the soil; these, when heeled in, may be transplanted at 
any time. A . D. variegata grows only about half the height of the 
green one — an exceedingly desirable plant for the hardy border. 
To propagate, take the ripe stems and lay them in damp moss or 
sand; from each joint one or more buds will start into growth and 
ultimately take root. These young plants, when of sufficient size, 
may be detached from the parent stem and put in small pots. 

BAMBOO. Several genera of Grasses are known as Bamboos. 
They grow splendidly in a deep soil, but many of the sorts are not 
hardy even in Washington, D. C. There are one or two species 
grown in greenhouses and several hardy ones. Bambusa arundin- 
acea will grow 60 feet high in a single season. It is useful for roomy 
structures where quick effects are wanted. Phyllostachys aurea is 
perfectly hardy in Washington, D. C. The growths will reach a 
height of 15 feet. B. striata is grown indoors in Winter. The plants 
will thrive a long time with limited root accommodation. P. {rusci- 
Jolia) virminalis, Arundinaria chrysantha, P. punctata, P. mills and 



4i6 



PLANT CULTURE 




Cyperus alternifolius. The Umbrella Plant 



P. Marliacea sometimes stand the Winter in the open border without 
losing their foliage. The leaves of all the hardy Ba mboos have tessel- 
lated venation; those of the tender kinds have striated venation. A. 
Fortunei variegata should never be placed where it will crowd other 
plants, as it spreads rapidly and is difficult to eradicate. 

Propagation. Increase is best effected by division. The pieces 
should be started into growth among sand, in a close cool frame, 
potting off the rarer kinds when a few new roots have been made. 

CORTADERIA (Gynerium. Pampas Grass). This is, per- 
haps, the most beautiful of the Grasses, but it is not very hardy and 



ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 417 

should best be protected with boxes or barrels placed over the 
plants and filled with straw or leaves. 

Propagation. There are two common methods of increasing 
this plant, namely, from seed, the usual method, and division of 
the clumps, which is a more satisfactory method. Dig up a large 
clump in the Fall; chop it up into pieces small enough to go easily 
into 6-inch pots. Use stiff loam and pot firmly, standing the plants 
under benches; water occasionally until the beginning of February, 
when the plants should be removed from the pots and divided up 
into the smallest pieces, saving the new roots as much as possible. 
Shorten the leaves back to half their length and put in the sand bed 
for a couple of weeks to start fresh roots; then place in 3- or 4-inch 
pots, and they will form well-furnished plants in a short time. 

CYPERUS. Several species are commonly cultivated. C. 
alternifolius, the Umbrella Plant, is useful either as a house plant 
or for planting out in Summer. Its propagation is more quickly 
accomplished by leaves than from seed, in the following manner: 
Get a piece of zinc, or as many pieces as may be wanted, of a size, 
say, 2 feet square; turn up the sides 3 inches; beat the sides forming 
the corners together and bend them to one side so as to hold water, 
fill with sand and saturate with water. Get some mature growths, 
cut off the stalk and shorten the leaves; insert in the sand and keep 
thoroughly wet. In a warm house they will send up numerous rooted 
growths in a short time, which, as they require it, should be potted 
and grown on. Young plants such as these can very easily be 
divided. The variegated form does not propagate as readily by 
this method; it is apt to come green. Division suits it better. 

DACTYLIS (Variegated Orchard Grass). D. glomerata var. 
variegata grows in waste places in the Eastern States. The 
green leaved plants are weedy in growth, very floriferous and are 
never grown in gardens. The variegated form seldom produces 
many flowers, and these, when they appear, should be removed. 
It is one of our best low growing variegated Grasses, much used in 
some places for bedding. 

Propagation. It is readily propagated by division. 

ELYMUS (Lyme Grass). E. glaucus is a very ornamental 
species with bluish green leaves finely striated on the upper surfaces. 
It reaches a height of about 2 feet. The habit is inclined to be 
spreading. In early Spring the growth is about a foot high when 
most other ornamental Grasses are just showing. 

Propagation. It is propagated by division. 



4i8 



PLANT CULTURE 




Erianthus Ravenna 



ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 419 

ERIANTHUS (Hardy Pampas Grass. Plume Grass). 

E. Ravennce comes next in size to the Arundo, frequently growing 
10 feet high. The growths are stout, ending with very ornamental 
flowers, which, if taken in a young state and dried in the sun, are 
quite as showy as those of the Pampas plumes. It is hardy as far 
north as New York City. 

Propagation. The plants produce seeds freely; they should 
be sown in Autumn and wintered in a cool house. 

EULALIA (Miscanthus). The variegated forms oiE. sinensis 
(Japonica) are more frequently used than any other ornamental 
Grasses. As isolated specimens they grow into very symmetrical 
subjects, the outer leaves of the clump drooping and almost reaching 
the ground. There are three kinds usually cultivated — Eulalia s. 
Joliis-striatus, E. s. zehrina and E. univittata. The last named is 
much more dwarf than the others, the leaves narrow with a whitish 
stripe down the middle. They are natives of Japan. 

Propagation. The crowns should be divided just as the plants 
are starting into growth. Old clumps will have to be broken up with 
the aid of a mattock or axe. They may be divided into pieces small 
enough to go in a 3-inch pot and plunged in a frame among ashes, 
or they may be heeled among sand in a frame for a couple of weeks 
or more before potting. They should in any case be kept close for 
a few days after being divided, in order to start fresh roots. 

FESTUCA (Fescue Grass). F. glauca grows only a few inches 
high ; the foliage is of a bluish green color. 

Propagation. It may be divided and replanted during March 
or April. 

PANICUM (Oplismenus). The correct name is Oplismenus 
Burmanni var. variegatus, although the common species is known as 
P. variegatum by florists. A useful Uttle warm house plant, having 
leaves striped with white and pink. It will grow in shade or sun. 
and is used chiefly for hanging over the sides of baskets, vases and 
boxes. 

Propagation. The plant is propagated from cuttings in March. 

PAPYRUS (Egyptian Paper Plant). P. antiquorum is culti- 
vated in conservatories or planted out in the Summer near aquatic 
gardens. The proper name for this plant is Cyperus Papyrus. The 
Papyrus, after being hfted from its Summer quarters, where the 
growths made are usually very strong, frequently gets into a half 



420 



PLANT CULTURE 




Papyrus antiquorum. Egyptian Paper Plant 



ORNAMENTAL GRASSES 421 

sickly state during the Winter months, from which it takes it some 
time to recuperate after being replanted outside. In Winter the 
growths are grassy and spindling. 

Propagation. If the old plants are taken in hand some time 
in January, and split up into the smallest pieces and put in the 
sand bed of a warm house, they will in a few days push out fine, 
healthy roots and when potted in a mixture of equal parts of moss, 
sand and manure, will grow very vigorously and will be in splendid 
trim for the planting out season. If it is desired to increase the 
stock the young plants, after being in the pots for a few weeks, can 
be redivided and the operation of rooting gone through as at first. 
In the absence of a propagating bench a box of sand placed on the 
hot water pipes answers the same purpose. 

PENNISETUM (Fountain Grass). P. longistylum (villosum) 
and P. Ruppelii are perhaps the finest of our dwarf Grasses, which 
are grown principally on account of the very ornamental character 
of the flowers. They are usually treated as half-hardy annuals, 
owing to their liability to get winter killed. They sometimes sur- 
vive the Winters in the District of Columbia, but should always be 
treated as tender subjects. 

Propagation. Plants raised annually from seeds are satis- 
factory, if sown early; but old plants, divided up will give larger 
pieces, start into bloom earlier and do not take so much attention 
as seedlings. The old plants are wintered anywhere out of the 
reach of frost. About the beginning of February cut off the old 
leaves to within 6 inches of the crowns; divide into small pieces, 
trim the roots so that they will ultimately go into 3- or 4-inch pots; 
place the pieces thickly together in boxes of sandy soil and keep in 
greenhouse. Pot as soon as the new roots have started. They may 
be removed to a cool frame long before the soft bedding material 
demands all the indoor space. There are several other annual and 
perennial species grown; none, however, is as desirable as the above. 

SACCHARUM (Sugar Cane). S. officinarum violaceum is a 
variety of the Sugar Cane with violet or plum colored leaves and 
stems; useful for sub-tropical bedding. 

Propagation. It is easily increased by cutting the stems into 
pieces, with two joints to each piece, and placing them on the sand 
bed of a warm house at almost any time. Numerous shoots are 
produced at the joints, and they make plants rapidly. 



422 



PLANT CULTURE 



STIPA (Feather Grass). S. pcnnata is an old favorite in gar- 
dens. The leaves are long and narrow. The flowers are arranged 
in long, arching spikes, presenting a very delicate appearance. 
Where this plant is not hardy, a barrow load of forest leaves may be 
placed over the plant and kept in place with a few Pine branches. 

Propagation. Divided in Spring and from seed. 

UNIOLA (Spike Grass). U. latifolia is a native species which 
makes an attractive border plant, growing usually from 2 to 3 feet 
high. The leaves are broad and arching, about an inch wide; the 
spikelets are drooping on long pedicels. This Grass starts early into 
growth. 

Propagation. One of easiest to propagate by division. 

ZIZANIA (Wild Rice). Z. paliistris {aquatica) is an annual 
species and can be depended upon to make a fine showing near the 
margins of Lily ponds, but the flower heads should be cut off before 
the seed ripens, otherwise we will have more plants than we want 
and it is apt to become a weed. The species known as Zizania lati- 
folia is a perennial plant and is not apt to become a weed, because 
it is seldom seen in flower. When planted near the edge of the pond 
it can be kept under control. Our native species behaves as an 
annual. Z. latifolia increases very fast from underground rhizomes, 
and is, if anything, the most ornamental of the two. It is a very 
popular food for wild game and fish. 




TEMPERATURES 



423 



Growing Temperatures Required by Plants 
in Greenhouses 



Deg. 

Abutilon 55-65 

Acacia. . . 45-50; prop . . . 60-70 

Acalypha 70, prop. . 60-70 

Achimenes 60 

Adiantum 60 

Farleyense 65-70 

Agapanthus 50 

Agathea 55 

Agave 70 

Ageratum 50 

Aglaonema 65-70 

Akebia 45-50 

AUamandas 65-70 

Alocasia, never below 60 

Aloysia citriodora 55 

Alternanthera 60 

Alyssum 50 

Amaryllis, start at 50, run 

to 60-70 

Ananas 70 

Anthericum 55 

Anthurium 65 

Antirrhinum, night 48-52, day 70 

Aralia 50-60 

Araucarias 50 

Ardisia 50 

Aristolochia 70 

Asparagus 55-60 

Aspidistra 50-75 

Asplenium 55-60 

Asters 55 

Astilbe 55-60 

Aucuba, cool, prop 50-60 

Azalea 45-50 

Begonia, night 55-60; day. . . 60 

Rex, semi-tuber 70 

Bellis perennis cool 

Bilbergia 65-70 

Bougainvillea 53-60, re- 
duce after flowering. 

Bouvardia 60 

Brunfelsia 50 

Cactus, night min 55 

Caladium 75 

Calathea 65 up 

Calceolaria. . 50, never over. . 65 

Calla 55 

Camellia, not Ies8 than. .40-60 

Cannas 40-50 

Carludovica 70-75 

Carnations 50-52 

Centaurea cool 45 

Cheiranthus 45-50 

Chorizema. .58-60, prop. .65-70 



Deg. 

Chrysanthemums 50-52 

Cineraria 40-45 

Clivia at least 40 

Citrus 50-55 

Clerodendron 65 

Cobsea 60 

Coleus 65, prop 60-65 

Cordylines 55-60 

Cotyledon 55-60 

Crinum 70 

Croton, night, not below 

60; day 70 

Cycas 50 

Cyclamen, night 50; day. . . .65 

Cytisus 55, prop 45 

Davallia 60-65 

Dicksonia 55-60 

DiefFenbachias 65 

Dracaena 55-60 

fragrans 65-70 

Eichhornea 60-70 

Erica, night. .50; day 60 

Eucharis 60-65 

Euphorbia pulcherrima, 

night 50-65; day.... 70 

Ficus 60-75 

Fittonia 65 prop. 

Freesias 55-60 

Fuchsia prop. 50-55 

Gardenias, night . . . 65-68; 

day 65-70 

Gerbera bottom heat 

Gladiolus 50-52 

Gloxinias 65-70 

Grevillea 50 

Hedera helix, prop 50-55 

Heliotrope, prop 60 

Hoya carnosa 50 

Hydrangeas, start .... 45, 

flower .... 65, prop 50-55 

Impatiens Sultani 55 

Iresine 60-65 

Jasminum 50-55 

Kalmia 50 

Lachenalias 50 

Lantana 60-65 

Lapageria 45 

Lilium, night .. 50; day .. 60-70 

Lily of the Valley 70-80 

Limnocharis Humboldtii 65 

Lomaria 65-70 

Lupinus, night, min 45 

Manettia bicolor 60 

Maranta 65 



Dee. 

Metrosideros robusta 45 

Mignonette, night. .45-48, 

day 55 

Monstera, night. .65; day. . .80 
Musa, night. .68; day. . . .78-88 

Narcissus cool 

Nepenthes 80-90 

Nymphaea 70 

Orchids 

Calanthe 65-90 

Cattleyas 55-60 

Coelogync cristata 60 

Cypripedium 50-55 

Dendrobium nobile 60 

Laelia anceps 50 

Odontoglossum 55-60 

Oncidium varicosum, 

night 70; day 90 

Phalaenopsis 70 

Osmanthus, night. .45-50; 

day 50-55 

O.xalis 60 

Palms, minimum 60 

Pandanus 65-70 

Pansies, night ...45; day... 60 

Pelargonium, prop 56-60 

Peperomias . . 55-60, prop .... 75 

Petunias 45-50 

Phormium 65 

Platycerium, night 60 

Primula: 

obconica 40-45 

sinensis 50-55 

Pteris 65 

Rhododendron 45-50 

Ricinus, Castor Bean 70 

Rose 58-60 

Saintpauiia 65 

Santolina 50-55 

Schizanthus 45-50 

Senecio 60 

Solanum 50-55 

Smilax 65 

Stevias, night. 40; day. 50; 

prop 50-55 

Strelitzia 50 

Swainsona 50-55 

Sweet Peas 55-60 

Tradescantia 40-45 

Tuberose 50 

Verbenas 50-55 

Victoria 70 

Vinca 60-65 

Viola 40-60, keep low 



424 



PLANT CULTURE 



Botanical Names of Ornamental Plants 

COMMON 

The following is a list of the common names of the ornamental 
plants included in this volume: 



Common Name 



Botanical Name 



Aaron's Beard 
Achyranthes 
Adam's Needle . 
Adder's Tongue . 
African Blue Lily- 
African Daisy 
African Golden Daisy 
African Marigold 
Alabama Snow Wreath 
Almond .... 
Alum Root . 
Amaranth 
Amazon Lily. 
American Cowslip . 
American Laurel 
Amethyst 
Angelica Tree 
Arrow Wood 
Australian X'iolet 



Saxifraga sarmentosa 

Iresine 

Yucca 

Eryihronium 

Agapanthiis 

Arc tot is 

Dimorphotheca 

Tagetes erecla 

. Neviusia 

Prunus 

. Heiichera 

Amaranthiis 

. Eiicharis 

Dodecatheon 

Kalmia 

. Broivallia 

. Aralia 

Viburnum dentation 

. Viola hederacea 



Baby's Breath . . . Gypsophila 
Bachelor's Button . . . Centaurea 
Balloon Mne . . . Cardiospermian 

Balsam Impatiens 

Bamboo Bambusa 

Banana Musa 

Barberry Berberis 

Bastard Indigo .... Amorpha 
Bay Tree . . . Lauras tiohilis 
Bayonet Plant . . Acipliylla, Yucca 
Beach Heliotrope Abronia umbellata 

Bead Plant Nerlera 

Beard Tongue . . . Pentstetnon 
Bear's Breech .... Acanthus 
Bellflower .... Campanula 
Bindweed .... Convolvulus 
Bird of Paradise 

Flower Strelitzia 

Bird's-nest Fern . Asplenium nidus 
Birth wort .... Aristolochia 

Bitter Root Lewisia 

Bitter \'etch Orobus 

Black Calla . Amor phophallus 

Black-eyed Susan . Thunbergia alata, 
Rudbeckia 

Bladder Nut Staphylea 

Blanket Flower .... Gaillardia 
Blazing Star .... Tritonia 
Bleeding Heart . Dicentra spectabilis 



Co.\i.MON Name 

Blood Root . 
Blue Bell 
Blue Daisy . 
Blue Flag 
Blue Spirea . 
Boston Fern 
Boston Ivy . 
Bottle Brush. 
Bouncing Bet 
Bowstring Hemp 
Boxwood 
Bread Fruit . 
Broom 

Buck Bean . 
Buffalo Berry 
Bugle Weed . 
Burning Bush 

Bush Clover 
Butterfly Bush . 
Butterfly Flower 
Butterfly Pea 
Butterfly Vine . 
Butterfly Weed . 



Botanical Name 

. Sanguinaria 

Campanula 

. FelictJ 

Iris versicolor 

Caryopteris 

Nephrolepis 

Ampelopsis 

Callistemon 

Saponaria officinalis 

Sansevieria 

. Buxus 

Artocarpus 

Cytisus 

Menyanthes 

Shepherdia 

. Ajugd 

Euonymus atropur- 

purea 

Lespedeza 

. Buddleia 

Schizanthus 

Clitoria 

Stigmaphyllon 

Asclepias tuberosa 



California Privet . . Ligustrum 
California Poppy . Eschscholtzia 

Calla Lily .Zantedeschia (Richardia) 

Candytuft Iberis 

Cape Cowslip 
Cape Fuchsia 
Cape Jessamine . 
Cape Marigold . 
Cape Pond Weed 
Cape Primrose . 
Cardinal Flower. 
Carnations 
Castor Bean 
Catchfly 



Lachenalia 

. Phygelius 

. Gardenia 

Dimorphotheca 

A ponogelon 

Streptocarpiis 

Lobelia cardinalis 

Dianthus Caryophyllus 

Ricinus 

Silene 



Cat-tail Typha 

Celandine .... Chelidonium 
Century Plant .... Agave 

Chalk Plant .... Gypsophila 

Chaste Tree Vitex 

Cheddar Pink . . Dianthus coBsius 

Cherry Primus 

Cherry Laurel .... Prunus 
Chilean Crocus . . . Tecophilcea 
China Aster . Callistephui hortensis 



COMMON— BOTANICAL NAMES 



425 



Common Name Botanical Name 

Chinese Bell Flower. . Platycodon 
Chinese Fan Palm . Livistona 

Chinese Lantern Plant . Bryophyllum 

Physalis 
Chinese Pink . Dianthus chinensis 
Chinese Sacred Lil^'. Narcissus 

Chinese Wisteria . Wistaria sinensis 
Christmas Cactus . . Epiphyllum 
Christmas Rose . . . Helleborus 
Cinnamon Fern . Osmunda cinnamo- 

mea 
Climbing Fern . . Lygodiiim 

Climbing Fumitory. . . Adlumia 

Cockscomb Celosia 

Cockspur Thorn. . . . Cratcpgus 
Cocoanut. . . . Cocos vncifera 

Columbine Aqiiilegia 

Coneflower . Echinacea, Rudbeckia 

Coral Bells Heiichera 

Coral Berry . . . Symphoricarpos 
Coral Liiy . . Lilium teniiifoliuni 

Coral Tree Erythrina 

Cornflower . . Centaurea cyaniis 

Cornish Heath Erica 

Cotton Lavender . . . Santolina 

Cowslip Primula veris 

Crab Apple Pyrus 

Crape Myrtle . . . Lagerslrcemia 
Creeping Jenny . . . Lysimachia 

Croton CodicEum 

Crown Imperial . . . Frilillaria 
Cup Flower .... Nierembergia 



Daffodil . 
Dasheen . 
Date Palm 
Dav Lilv 



Narcissus 

Colocasia 

Phoenix 

Hemerocallis, Funkia 



Devil's Fig Argemone 

Dog-tooth Violet . Erythronium 

Dogwood Cornus 

Dusty Miller .... Centaurea 
Dutchman's Pipe .Aristolochia sipho 
Dwarf Horse-Chestnut . . ^sculus 

Ebony Spleenwort . Asplenium platy- 

neuron 
Edelweiss . . Leontopodium 

Egyptian Lotus . Nelnmbium, Nyin- 

phcea 
Egyptian Paper Plant . Papyrus 

antiquo'/um 



Elephant Ear 
Elephant Ear 
Empress Tree 
English Daisy 
English Iris . 
English Ivy . 
English Laurel 



Calocasia 
Begonia Feastii 
Paulownia 
. . . Bellis 
Iris xiphioides 
. Hedera helix 
Prunus Lauro-ce- 
rasHs 



Co.vLMON Name 

Evening Primrose 
Everlasting . 
Fairy Lily 
Fairy Primrose . 
False Acacia 
False Indigo . 
False Mitre wort 
Feather Grass 
Fescue Grass. 
Fig ... . 
Fig Marigold 
Firecracker Plant 
Fish Grass 
Flax .... 
Floss Flower 
Flowering Maple 
Foam Flower 
Forget-me-not 
Fountain Grass . 
Four O'clock 
Foxglove 
Fraxinella 
French Marigold 
Fringe Tree . 
Furze 

Garden Pink . D 
Garland Flower . 
Gas Plant 
Gentian . 
Geranium 
German Catchfly 
German Ivy . 
Giant Fennel 
Giant Reed . 
Giant Spider Plant 
Globe Flower 
Glory of the Snow 
Glory Pea 
Goat's Beard 
Gold-banded Lily 
Golden Bell . . 
Golden Chain 
Gold Dust Tree . 
Golden Glow. 
Gorse 



Botanical Name 
. (Enolhera 
Helichrysum 
. Zephyranthes 
Primula malacoides 
Robinia 
Baptisia 
Tiarella 
. Stipa 
Festuca 
Ficus Carica 
Mesembryanthemum 
Cuphea 
Cabomba 
. Linum 
Ageratum 
A butilon 
Tiarella cordifolia 
. Myosotis 
Pennisetum 
. Mirabilis 
Digitalis 
Dictamnus 
Tagetes patida 
. Chionanthus 
. . . Ulex 
anthus plumarius 
Hedychium 
Dictamnus 
. Gentiana 
Pelargonium 
Lychnis viscaria 
Senecio 
. Ferula 
Arundo 
Cleome 
Kerria 
Chiouodoxa 
Clianthus 
Spiraea 
Lilium auratum 
, Forsythia 
Laburnu7n 
A ucuba 
Rudbeckia 
. . . Ulex 
Grape Hyacinth . . . Muscari 
Grass Pink . Dianthus plumarius 

Guinea-hen Flower . Frilillaria mele- 

agris 
Gumi Eloeagnus 

Harebell Campanula 



Hartford Fern 
Hawthorn 
Hay-scented Fern 
Heath. . 
Heather . 
Hedge Nettle 
Heliotrope 



Lygodium palmatum 

Cratcegus 

Dicksonia 

. Erica 

Calluna 

Stachys 

Heliotropium 



426 



PLANT CULTURE 



Common Name 

Heron's Bill . 
Holly. . . . 
Hen and Chickens 



Botanical Name 

Erodiutn 

. . Ilex 

Cotyledon 

Echeveria 

Althcea 

Cyrtomium 

. Mahernia 

Lonicera 

Humulus 

Ptelea 

Monarda 

Sempervivum 

Hyacinthus 

Mesembryanthemum 

crystallinutn 

Iceland Poppy . Papaver nudicanle 

Indian Currant . . Symphoricarpos 

Interrupted Fern . Osmunda Clay- 

toniana 

Irish Heath Dahcecia 

Ivy Geranium 



Hollyhock 
Holly Fern 
Honey Bell 
Honeysuckle 
Hop . . 
Hop Tree 
Horse Mint 
Houseleek 
Hyacinth 

Ice Plant 



Japan Cedar 
Japan Quince 
Japanese Iris 
Japanese Lily 
Japanese Maple 
Japanese Toad Lily 
Jasmine . . . . 
Jerusalem Cherry 



Pelargonium pelta- 
tum 
. Cryptomeria 
Cydonia 
Iris laevigata 
. Liliiim speciosum 
Acer 
. Tricyrtis 
Jasminuni 
Solanutn capsi- 
castrum 
Jonquil . . . Narcissus jonquilla 

Judas Tree Cercis 

Juniper Juniperus 

Kangaroo Vine .... Cissus 
King's Spear . . . Eretnurus 
Knitting Bag Plant . Calceolaria 
Kudzu Vine Pueraria 

Lady Fern . AspleniumFilix-fcemina 
Lady Slipper. Impatiens balsamina 
Lady Slipper Orchid . Cypripedium 



Larkspur 
Lattice-leaf Plant 
Lead Plant . 
Lemon Grass 
Lemon Lily . 
Lemon Thyme 

Lemon Verbena 

Lenten Rose 
Leopard Plant 
Leopard's Bane 
Lilac . 

Lily . . . 
Lily of the Nile 
Lily of the Valley 



Delphinium 

A ponogeton 

Phunbago Larpettlos 

. A ndropogon 

Hemerocallis flava 

Thymus ser phyllum 

vulgaris 

Lippia (Aloysia) 

cilriodora 

Helleborus 

. Ligularia 

Doronicum, 

Syringa 

Lilium 

Agapanthus 

Convallaria 



Common Name 

Little Pickles 
Loblolly Bay. 
Locust 
Loose-strife . 
Love-in-a-Mist 
Love-Lies- Bleeding 



Botanical Name 
Oihonna 
. Gordonia 
Robinia 
Lysimachia 
Nigella 
. Amaranthus 
caudatus 

Lupine Lupinus 

Lyme Grass Elymus 

Madeira Vine . . Boussingaultia 
Madonna Lily . Lilium candidum 

Mad wort Alyssum 

Maidenhair Fern , Adiantum, 

Maiden Pink . Dianthus deltoidcs 
Male Fern .... Dryopteris 
Maltese Cross . Lychnis chalcedonica 

Marigold Tagetes 

Marigold (Pot) .... Calendula 
Marsh Marigold. . . . Caltha 
Marvel of Peru .... Mirabilis 

Meadow Sweet SpirOBa 

Mexican Foxglove . . Tetranema 
Mexican Poppy . Argemone mexicana 
Mexican Tulip Poppy Hunnemannia 
Michaelmas Daisy .... Aster 

Mignonette Reseda 

Mock Orange . . . Philadelphus 
Moneywort . Lysimachia nummularia 
Monkey Flower .... Mimulus 
Monkey Puzzle Tree . Araucaria 

imbricata 



Monkshood . 
Moonflower . 
Morning Glory 
Mosquito Plant 
Moss Pink 
Mountain Bluet 
Mountain Laurel 
Mountain Rose 
Mullein 
Mullein Pink 



, Aconitum 

Ipomoea Bona-nox 

Ipomcea 

Lopezia racemosa 

Phlox subulata 

Centaurea tnontana 

Kalmia latifolia 

Antigonon 

Verbascum 

Agroslemma 



Nasturtium . 
New Zealand Bur 
New Zealand Flax . 
Norfolk Island Pine. 
Northern Twin Flower 



TropCBolum. 

Accena 

Phormium, 

Araucaria 

LinnCBa 



Oleander Nerium 

Opium Poppy . Papaver somniferum 
Orchard Grass . Dactylis glomerata 
Ornamental Tobacco . Nicotiana 
Ostrich Fern. Onoclea Strulhiopleris 
Oxlip Primula elatior 

Pampas Grass . Gynerium argenteum 
Paris Daisy Chrysanthemum frutcsccns 

Parlor Ivy Senecio 

Parrot's Bill Clianthus 

Parrot's Feather . . Myriophyllum 



COMMON— BOTANICAL NAMES 



427 



Common Name Botanical Name 

Passion Flower .... Passiflora 

Peach Prunus 

Pearl Bush .... Exochorda 

Peony Poeonia 

Perennial Pea .... Lathyrus 

Periwinkle Vinca 

Persian Buttercup . . Ranunculus 
Pincushion Flower . . . Scabiosa 

Pineapple Ananas 

Pink Dianthus 

Pink-Root Spigelia 

Pinxter Flower . Azalea yiudi flora 

Pitcher Plant Nepenthes, Sarracenia 
Plantain Lily .... Funkia 
Pleurisy Root .... Asclepias 

Plum Prunus 

Plume Grass. Erianthus Ravennas 
Plume Poppy .... Bocconia 
Poison Dogwood . . Rhus vernix 
Poison Elder . . . Rhus vernix 
Poison Ivy . . Rhus Toxicodendron 
Poison Oak . . Rhus Toxicodendron 
Poison Sumach . . . Rhus vernix 

Polypody PolyPodium 

Pomegranate Punica 

Pond Lily .... Nymphcea 
Poor Man's Orchid . . Schizanthus 

Poppy Papaver 

Pot Marigold . . . Calendula 

Prayer Plant A brus 

Primrose Primula 

Prince's Feather . Amaranthus hypo- 
chondriacus 

Privet Ligustrum 

Purple Coneflower . . Echinacea 
Purple Loosestrife . . Lylhrum 
Purple Wreath Petrea 

Queen of the Meadow . Spiraea Ul- 

maria 
Rabbit's Foot Fern . . Davallia 
Ragoon Creeper . . Qiiisqualis 
Rattlesnake Plantain . . Goodyera 

Red Bud Cercis 

Red Elder Sambucus racemosa 

Red-hot Poker . . Kniphofia 

Restharrow Ojionis 

Resurrection Plant . Selaginella lepi- 

dophylla 
Rhodora . Azalea canadense 

Rice Paper Plant .... Fatsia 

Rock Cress Arabis 

Rock Rose . . . Cistus, Portulaca 
Rock Strawberry Duchesnea (Fragaria) 

Rose Rosa 

Rose Acacia Robin ia 

Rose Mallow Hibiscus 

Rose of Sharon . Hibiscus syriacus 
Rosette Mullein . . Rarnondia 



Common Name 
Royal Water Lily 
Rubber Plant 



Sago Palm 
Sand Verbena 
Saxifrage 
Scarborough Lily 
Scarlet Bush 
Screw Pine . 
vSea Lavender 
Sea Pink . 
Sensitive Fern 
Shield Fern . 
Shirley Poppy 
Shooting Star 
Shrubby Althaea 
Shrubby Cinquefoil 
Shrubby Peony 
Siberian Iris . 
Siberian Squill . 
Silk Oak . 
Skull Cap 
Skunk Lily 
Smilax 
Smoke Tree 
Snapdragon 
Snowball 
Snowberry 
Snow Bush 
Snowdrop 
Snowdrop Tree 
Snowflake 
Snow-in-Summer 



Ahronia 



Botanical Name 
Victoria 
Ficus elastica 



. Cycas 

timbellata 

Saxifraga 

Vallota 

Hamelia 

Pandanus 

Statice 

Armeria 

Onoclea 

spidium spinulosa 

Papaver Khoeas 

Dodecatheon 

Hibiscus syriacus 

. Potentilla 

. Posonia rnoutan 

. Iris sibirica 

. Scilla sibirica 

. Grevillea 

. . Scutellaria 

Fritillaria imperialis 

Asparagus asparagoides 

. Rhus Cotinus 

. Antirrhinum 

Viburnum 

Symphoricarpos 

Phyllanthus 

Galanthus 

Halesia 

. Leucojum 

C eras Hum to- 

tnentosiim 



Soapwort 
Spanish Iris . 
Spiderwort . 
Speedwell 
Spike Grass . 
Spindle Tree 
Squill 

Stag- Horn Fern . 
Star Jasmine. 
St. Bernard's Lily 
St. John's Wort . 
Stokes' Aster 
Stocks 
Stonecrop 
Storax 

Strawberry Bush£/ 
Sugar Cane . 
Sumach . . . . 
Summer Cypress 
Summer Hyacinth 
Summer Lilac 
Summer Snowflake 
Sundew . 
Sunflower 



Saponaria 

. Iris xiphium 

. Tradescantia 

. Veronica 

Uniola 

Euonymus 

. Scilla 

Platycerium 

Trachelos permum 

Anther ician 

Hypericum 

Stokesia 

. Matthiola 

Sediim 

. Stvrax 



iiony 



mils americana 

Saccharum 

Rhus 

Kochia 

Galtonia 

. Buddleia 

Leucojum 

Drosera 

Helianthus 



428 



PLANT CULTURE 



Common Name 



Botanical Name 



Swamp Honeysuckle . Azalea vis- 
cos um 
Swan River Daisy . Bracliycome 

Sweet Alyssum .... Alyssum 

Sweet Flag Acorus 

Sweet Pea . . Lalhyrns odoratus 
Sweet-scented Shrub . Calycanthus 
Sweet Sultan. . Centaur ea moschata 
Sweet William . Dianlhus harbatus 
Sweet Woodruff . . . Asperula 

Sword Lily Gladiolus 

Syringa .... Philadelphus 

Tamarisk Tamarix 

Tango Plant . . . Chorizema 

Tansy Tanacetum 

Thunbergian Lily . Liliiim elegans 

Thyme Thymus 

Tick Trefoil .... Desmodiiitn 

Tiger Flower Tigridia 

Tiger Lily . . . Lilium tigrinum 

Torch Lily Tritoma 

Transvaal Daisy. . . . Gerhera 
Treasure Vine .... Hidalgoa 

Tree Violet Tinnea 

Trumpet Vine . Camps is {Tecoma) 



Tuberose 
Tufted Pansies . 
Tulip .... 
Turban Buttercup 
Turk's Cap Lily. 



Polianthes 

Viola cornuta 

Tulipa 

Ranunculus 

Lilium superbum 



Common Name Botanical Name 

Umbrella Plant Cyperus alternifolius 
Variegated Laurel . . CodiCBum 



Varnish Tree. 

Venus' Fly Trap 
Violet . . . 
Virginian Cowslip 
Virginian Willow 

Wake Robin 
Walking Fern 
Wallflower 
Water Hyacinth. 
Water Lily . 
Water Poppy 
Wax Plant . . 
Weigelia . 
Whin .... 
White Irish Heath 
White Kerria 
Whorl Flower 
Wild Rice . . 
Willow . . . 
Wind flower . 
Winter Aconite . 
Wishbone Flower 
Witches' Thimbles 
Wood Hyacinth 



Kcelreuteria 

Dioncea 

. Viola 

Mertensia 

Ilea 

Trillium 

Camptosorus 

Cheiranlhus 

Eichhornia 

Nym.ph(Ea 

Limnocharis 

. Hoya 

Diervilla 

. Ulex 

Dabcecia 

Rhodotypos 

M or in a 

Zizania 

. Salix 

Anemone 

Eranthis 

Torenia 

Digitalis 

. Scilla 



Youth and Old Age . . Zinnia 
Zanzibar Balsam Impatiens Sultani 




BOTANICAL— COMMON NAMES 



429 



Common Names of Ornamental Plants 



Botanical Name 
Abronia umhellala 



BOTANICAL 

Common Name Botanical Name 



Beach Heliotrope 
Sand Verbena 
Prayer Plant 
Flowering Maple 
. New Zealand Bur 
Bear's Breech 
. Japanese Maple 
Bayonet Plant 
. Monkshood 
. Sweet Flag 
Maidenhair Fern 
. Climbing Fumitory 
Dwarf Horse-Chesnut 
. African Blue Lily 
Lily of the Nile 
Century Plant 
. Floss Flower 
. Bugle Weed 
Hollyhock 
Alyssiim . Madwort, Sweet Alyssum 
Amaranthus .... Amaranth 
Amaranthiis caudatiis . Love-Lies- 

Bleeding 
Amaranthus hy pochondriacus . 

Prince's Feather 
Amorpha . . Bastard Indigo 



A brus 

A butilon . 

Accena 

Acanthus 

A cer . 

Aciphylla 

Aconitum 

A corns 

Adiantiirn 

Adlumia . 

x-Esculus . 

Agapanthus 



Agave 
Ageratum 
Ajuga 
AlthOBa 



St. 



. Black Calla 
Boston Ivy 
Pineapple 
Windflower 
Lemon Grass 
Bernard's Lily 
Mountain Rose 
. Snapdragon 
Cape Pond Weed, Lat- 
tice-leaf Plant 
Aquilegia .... Columbine 

Arabis Rock Cress 

Aralia .... Angelica Tree 
Araucaria excelsa Norfolk Island Pine 
Araucaria imbricata . . Monkey 

Puzzle Tree 
Arctotis .... African Daisy 



Amor pho phallus 
Ampelopsis . 
Ananas . 
Anemone . 
Andropogon . 
Anthericum . 
Antigonon 
Antirrhinum 
Aponogelon 



Argemone . 
Argemone mexicana 
Aristolochia . 
Aristolochia si pho 
Armeria . 
Artocarpus , 
Arundinaria . 
Arundo . 
Asclepias 
Asclepias tuberosa 
Asparagus 
Asperula . 



Devil's Fig 

Mexican Poppy 

Birthwort 

Dutchman's Pipe 

. Sea Pink 

. Bread Fruit 

Bamboo 

Giant Reed 

Pleurisy Root 

Butterfly Weed 

includes Smilax 

Sweet Woodruff 



Common Name 
Aspidium spinulosum Shield Fern 
Asplenium Filix-fcemina Lady Fern 
Asplenium nidus . Bird's-nest Fern 
Asplenium platyneuron . . Ebony 

Spleenwort 
Aster .... Michaelmas Daisy 
Aucuba .... Gold Dust Tree 
Azalea canadense . . . Rhodora 
Azalea nudiflora Pinxter Flower 

Azalea viscosum .Swamp Honeysuckle 

Bambusa Bamboo 

Baptisia False Indigo 

Bellis .... English Daisy 

Berberis Barberry 

Browallia Amethyst 

Bryophyllum . Chinese Lantern Plant 

Bocconia Plume Poppy 

Boussingaultia . . . Madeira \'ine 
Brachycome . . Swan Riv^er Daisy 
Buddleia .... Butterfly Bush 
Buddleia .... Summer Lilac 
Buxus Boxwood 

Cabomba Fish Grass 

Calceolaria . . Knitting Bag Plant 
Calendula. . . . Marigold (Pot) 
Callistefuon . . . Bottle Brush 
Callistephus hortensis . China Aster 

Calluna Heather 

Caltha Marsh Marigol 1 

Calycanthus . Sweet-scented Shrub 
Campanula . . Bellflower, Harebell 

Blue Bell 
Camptosorus . . . Walking Fern 
Cardiospermum . . . Balloon Vine 
Caryopteris .... Blue Spirea 

Celosia Cockscomb 

CtJwiaurea. Bachelor's Button, Dusty 
Miller, Mountain Bluet 
Centaurea cyanus ■ . . Cornflower 
Centaurea tnoschata . . Sweet Sultan 
Cerasiium. . . Snow-in-Summer 
Cercis . .Judas Tree, Red Bud 
Cheiranthus .... Wallflower 



Chelidonium 
Chionanthus . 
Chionodoxa . 
Chorizema 
Chrysanthemum 



Cistus 
Cleome 
Clianthus 
Clitoria 
Co cos 



Celandine 

. Fringe Tree 

Glory of the Snow 

. Tango Plant 

Paris Daisy, 

Pyrethrum 

. Rock Rose 

. Giant Spider Plant 

Glory Pea, Parrot's Bill 

. . Butterfly Pea 

. Cocoanut 



43° 



PLANT CULTURE 



Botanical X.\me 

Cod id' u m C roton , 

Convallaria 

Convolvulus 

Corn us 

Cotyledon 

CraUTgus . 

Cryptomeria 

Cupliea 

Cycas . 

Cydonia . 

Cyperus alternifoli 

Cypripedium 

Cyrtomium 

Cvtisus 



Common Name Botanical Name 



Variegated Laurel 

Lily of the Valley 

Bindweed 

. Dogwood 

Hen and Chickens 

Hawthorn 

. Japan Cedar 

Firecracker Plant 

Sago Palm 

Japan Quince 

us Umbrella Plant 

Lady Slipper Orchid 

Holly Fern 

. Broom, Genista 



DabcBcia . . . White Irish Heath 
Daclylis glomerata . Orchard Grass 
Davallia . . . Rabbit's Foot Fern 
Delphinium .... Larkspur 

Desmodium .... Tick Trefoil 

Dianthus .^}^^ 

Dianlhus harhatus . Sweet William 
Dianthus Caryophyllus . Carnation 
Dicentra spectabilis . Bleeding Heart 
Dicksonia . . Hay-scented Fern 
Dictamnus . Gas Plant, Fraxinella 

Diervilla Weigela 

Digitalis . . Foxglove. Witches' 

Thimble 
Dimorphotheca African Golden Daisy. 
Cape Marigold 
DionCEa .... Venus' Fly Trap 
Dodecatheon . . American Cowslip. 
Shooting Star 
Doronicum . . .Leopard's Bane 

Drosera Sundew 

Duchesnea . . Rock Strawberry 

Echeveria . . . Hen and Chickens 
Echinacea. . . Purple Coneflower 
Eichhornia . . Water Hyacinth 

Elymus Lyme Grass 

Epiphyllum . . Christmas Cactus 
Eranthis .... Winter Aconite 



Eremurus 

Erianthus RavennOB 
Erica .... 
Erodiiim . 
Erythrina 
Erythronium . 



Eschschollzia . 

Eucharis .... 

Euonymus 

Euonymus atro-purpurea 

Euonymus americana 

Exochorda . . . . 



. King's Spear 
. Plume Grass 
. . Heath 
. Heron's Bill 
Coral Tree 
Adder's Tongue 
Dog-tooth Violet 
California Poppy 
Amazon Lily 
Spindle Tree 
Burning 
Bush 
Strawberry 

Bush 
Pearl Bush 



Common N.AaME 

Rice Paper Plant 

Blue Daisy 

Giant Fennel 

Fescue Grass 

. . . Fig 

Rubber Plant 

Golden Bell 

Rock Strawberry 

Crown Im- 



Fatsia 

Felicia 

Ferula. 

Festuca 

Ficus Carica 

Ficus elaslica 

Forsythia . 

Fragaria . 

Fritillaria imperialis 

perial. Skunk Lily 
Fritillaria meleagris . Guinea-hen 

Flower 
Funkia . Plantain Lily, Day Lily 

Gaillardia. . . . Blanket Flower 
Galanthus .... Snowdrop 
Galtonia . . . Summer Hyacinth 
Gardenia . . . Cape Jessamine 

Gentiana Gentian 

Gerbera . . . Transvaal Daisy 

Gladiolus Sword Lily 

Goodyera . . Rattlesnake Plantain 

Gordonia Loblolly Bay 

Grevillea Silk Oak 

Gynerium argenteum. Pampas Grass 



Gypsophila 

Halesia . 
Hamelia . 
Hedera helix 
Hedychium . 
Helianthus 
Helichrysiim 
Heliotropium 
Helleborus 



Hemerocallis 



Baby's Breath. Chalk 
Plant 
Snowdrop Tree 
. Scarlet Bush 
. English Ivy 
Garland Flower 
Sunflower 
Everlasting 
Heliotrope 
Christmas Rose, Len- 
ten Rose 
Day Lily, Lemon Lily 



Heuchera 
Hibiscus . 
Hibiscus syriacus 



Hidalgoa 
Hoya 
Humulus 
Hunneman7iia 
Hyacinthus . 
Hypericum . 



Alum Root. Coral Bells 

Rose Mallow 

Rose of Sharon. 

Shrubby Althaea 

Treasure Vine 

Wax Plant 

Hop 

Mexican Tulip Poppy 

Hyacinth 

. . St. John's Wort 



Iberis Candytuft 

Ilex Holly 

Impatiens Balsam 

Itnpatiens balsamina . Lady Slipper 
Impatiens Sultani . Zanzibar Balsam 
Ipomcea .... Morning Glory 
I pomcea Bona-nox . . Moonflower 

Iresine Achyranthes 

Iris Flag 

Ilea .... Virginian Willow 
Jasminum Jasmine 



BOTANICAL— COMMON NAMES 



431 



Botanical N.wie 
Juniper us 
Kahnia 

Kalmia latifolia 
Kerria 
Kniphofia 
Koch ia 
Kcelreuleria . 



Laburnum 
Lachenalia 
Lager strcemia 
Lathyrus . 
Lathyrus odoratus 
Laurus nobilis 
Leonto podium 
Lespedeza 
Leucojum 
Lewisia 
Ligularia . 
Liguslrum 
Lilium 

Limnocharis . 
Linncea 
Linum 



Common Name 
Juniper 

. American Laurel 

Mountain Laurel 

Globe Flower 

. Red-hot Poker 

Summer Cypress 

. Varnish Tree 



Golden Chain 

Cape Cowslip 

Crape Myrtle 

Perennial Pea 

Sweet Pea 

. Bay Tree 

Edelweiss 

. Bush Clover 

Summer Snowflake 

. Bitter Root 

Leopard Plant 

. Privet 

. . . . Lily 

. Water Poppy 

Northern Twin Flower 

Flax 



Lippia (Aloysia) citriodora. Lemon 

Verbena 
Livislona . . Chinese Fan Palm 
Lobelia . . . Cardinal Flower 

Lonicera Honeysuckle 

Lopezia racemosa . Mosquito Plant 

Lupinus Lupine 

Lychnis chalcedonica . Maltese Cross 
Lychnis viscaria . German Catchfly 
Lygodium . . . Climbing Fern 
Lygodium pahnatum . Hartford Fern 
Lysimachia . Creeping Jenny. Loose- 
strife 
Lysimachia nunimularia Monej'wort 
Lythrum . . . Purple Loosestrife 



Mahernia. 

Matth iola 

Menyanthes . 

Mertensia. 

Mesembryayithemum 

Mesembryanthetnum 



Mimulus . 
Mirabilis 

Monarda . 
M or in a 
Musa 
Muscari . 
Myosotis 
Myriophyllum 
Narcissus 
Nepenthes 
Nephrolepis . 



Four 



Honey Bell 

■ Stocks 

Buck Bean 

Virginian Cowslip 

.Fig Marigold 

crystallinum 

Ice Plant 

. Monkey Flower 

O'clock. Marvel 

of Peru 

. Horse Mint 

Whorl Flower 

Banana 

Grape Hyacinth 

Forget-me-not 

Parrot's Feather 

Daffodil, Jonquil 

Pitcher Plant 

. Boston Fern 



Botanical N.\me Common Name 

Neriutn Oleander 

Nertera Bead Plant 

Neviusia . . Alabama Snow Wreath 
Nicotiana . Ornamental Tobacco 
Nier ember gia . . .Cup Flower 
Nigella .... Love-in-a-Mist 

Nymphcea Pond Lily 

Water Lily 
(Enolhera . . Evening Primrose 
Onoclea .... Sensitive Fern 
Onoclea Slruthiopteris .Ostrich Fern 



Ononis 

Orobus .... 

Othonna 

Osmunda cinnamomea 



Osmunda Claytoniana 



Restharrow 

Bitter Vetch 

Little Pickles 

Cinnamon 

Fern 

Interrupted 

Fern 

Peony 

Screw Pine 

Poppy 

Egyptian 

Paper Plant 

Passion Flower 

Empress Tree 

Geranium 

. Fountain Grass 

Beard Tongue 

Purple W.f-eath 

Mock Orange. Syringa 

Moss Pink 



PCBonia . 
Pandanus 

Papaver .... 
Papyrus antiquorum 

Passiflora 
Paulownia 
Pelargonium. 
Pennisetum . 
Pentstemon . 
Petrea .... 
Philadelphus 
Phlox subulata 

Phoenix Date Palm 

Phormium . . New Zealand Flax 
Phygelius . . . . Cape Fuchsia 
Phyllanthus .... Snow Bush 

Phyllostachys Bamboo 

Physalis . . Chinese Lantern Plant 
Platycerium . . . Stag Horn Fern 
Platycodon . . Chinese Bell Flower 

Polianthes Tuberose 

Poly podium Polypody 

Portulaca .... Rock Rose 
Potentilla . . Shrubby Cinquefoil 

Primula Primrose 

Primula elatior Oxlip 

Primula veris .... Cowslip 
Primus . Plum. Cherry. Almond. 

Peach 

Ptelea Hop Tree 

Pueraria . 

Punica 

Pyrus 

Quisqualis 



Ramondia 
Ranunculus 



Kudzu Vine 

Pomegranate 

. Crab Apple 

Ragoon Creeper 

Rosette Mullein 
Persian Buttercup 
Turban Buttercup 



432 



PLANT CULTURE 



Botanical Name Common Name 

Reseda ... . Mignonette 

Rhus Cotinits . Smoke Tree. Sumach 
Rhus Toxicodendron . . Poison Oak 

Poison Ivy 

Rhus vernix . . . Poison Sumach 

Poison Dogwood, Poison Elder 

Richardia Calla Lily 

Ricinus Castor Bean 

Rhodotypos . . . White Kerria 
Robin ia . Rose Acacia, False Acacia 

P.osa Rose 

Rudbeckia Coneflower. Golden Glow 
Saccharum .... Sugar Cane 

Salix Willow 

Sajnbiicus racemosa . . .Red Elder 
San guin aria .... Blood Root 
Sansevieria . . Bowstring Hemp 
Sanlolina . . Cotton Lavender 
Saponaria .... Soapwort 

Saponaria officinalis Bouncing Bet 
Sarracenia . . . Pitcher Plant 
Saxifraga .... Saxifrage 

Saxifraga sarmentosa Aaron's Beard 
Scabiosa . . . Pincushion Flower 
Schizanlhiis . . Butterfly Flower 
Poor Man's Orchid 
Scilla . . Squill. Wood Hyacinth 

Scutellaria Skull Cap 

Sednm Stonecrop 

Selaginella lepidophylla 

Resurrection Plant 
Sempervivum . . . Houseleek 
Senecio . German Ivy. Parlor Ivy 
Shepherdia . . . 'Buffalo Berry 

Silene Catchfiy 

Solanum capsicastruni . Jerusalem 

Cherry 

Spigelia Pink-Root 

Spircea Goat's Beard. Meadow Sweet 

Bridal Wreath 

Spircea idmaria Queen of the Meadow 

Stachys Hedge Nettle 

Staphylea 



Statice . 
Stigmaphyllon 
Stipa . 



Bladder Nut 
vSea Lavender 
Butterfly \'ine 
Feather Grass 



Botanical Name Common N.vme 

Slokesia .... Stokes' Aster 
Strelilzia . Bird of Paradise P'lower 
Sire plocar pus . . . Cape Primrose 

Slyrax Storax 

Symphoricarpos . Snowberry, Coral 
Berry, Indian Currant 

Syringa Lilac 

Tagetes Marigold 

Tamarix Tamarisk 

Tanacetum Tansy 

Tecoma .... Trumpet Vine 
Tecophilcea . . . Chilean Crocus 
Telranema . . Mexican Foxglove 
Thunbergia alata. Black-eyed Susan 

Thymus Thyme 

Tiarella . . . False Mitrewort 
Tiarella cor di folia . Foam Flower 
Tigridia .... Tiger Flower 

Tinnea Tree \'iolet 

Torenia . . . Wishbone Flower 
Trachelos permum . Star Jasmine 
Tradescantia .... Spiderwort 
Tricyrlis . . Japanese Toad Lily 

Trillium Wake P.obin 

Tritoma Torch Lily 

Triton i a .... Blazing Star 
TropCEolum .... Nasturtium 

Tulipa Tulip 

Typha Cat-tail 

Ulex . . . Whin. Gorse. Furze 

Uniola Spike Grass 

Vallola . . . Scarborough Lily 

Verbascum Mullein 

Veronica Speedwell 

Viburnum .... Snowball 

Viburnum denlatuni . Arrowwood 
Vinca . . . ... Periwinkle 

Viola \'iolet 

Vitex Chaste Tree 

Wistaria sinensis Chinese Wisteria 

Yucca Adam's Needle 

Zantedeschia . . . Calla Lily 
Zephvranthes . . . Fairy Lily 
Zinnia . . Youth and Old Age 
Zizania Wild Rice 



INDEX 



433 



Index of Scientific Names 

Refer to List on Page 424 for common names 



Page 

Abelia 293 

Abronia 165 

Abrus 52 

Abutilon 52,280 

Acacia 52 

Acsena 165 

Acalypha 55, 280 

Acanthophoenix..55, 142 

Acanthus 165 

Acer 293 

Achillea 166 

Achimenes 243 

Achyranthes 

(See Iresine 285) 

Aciphylla 166 

Acocanthera 55 

Aconitum 166 

Acorus 403 

Actinidia 360 

Adamia 

(See Dichroa 109) 

Adenocalymna 360 

Adiantum.278,383, 388 

hardy. 387 

propagation 390 

Adlumia 360 

Adonis 168 

jEschynanthus 
(See Trichosporum 160) 

iEsculus 294 

iEthionenia 168 

Agapanthus 244 

Agathaea 

(See Felicia 121) 

Agave 55 

Ageratum 223 

Agrostemma 168 

Ajuga 169 

Akebia 360 

Allamanda 361 

Alocasia 56 

Aloe.. 56 

Aloysia 

(See Lippia 134) 

Alternanthera 280 

Althaea 169 

Alvssum, perennials. 169 

Sweet 224 

Amaranthus 224 



Page 

Amaryllis 244 

(See Crinum, 253; 
Hippeastrum, 263; 
Zephyranthes, 277) 
culture in frames. . 244 

pot culture 246 

Amorpha 294 

Amorphophallus. . . .246 

Amepiopsis 363 

Amygdalus 

(See Prunus 329) 

Ananas 56 

Andropogon 415 

Anemone 170 

alpina 170 

apennina 170 

coronaria 246 

fulgens 246 

hortensis 246 

japonica 170 

nemorosa 170 

Anthericum 57 

Antirrhinum 172 

Anthurium 57 

Antigonon 363 

Aponogeton 403 

Aquilegia 172 

Arabis 173 

Aralia 

greenhouse species 59 

hardy shrubs 29G 

Araucaria 61 

(See Schubertia 379) 

Arctotis 224 

Ardisia 61 

Areca 

(See Chrysolidicarpos 
97, 142) 

Arenga 142 

Argemone 175 

Aristolochia 364 

Armeria 175 

Artocarpus 63 

Aruncus 

<See Spiraea 216) 
Arundinaria 

(See Bamboo 415) 



Page 

Arundo 415 

Asclepias 

Curassavica 281 

tuherosa 175 

Asparagus (Includes 

Smilax) 63 

rust 45 

Asperula 176 

Aspidium 383 

greenhouse sorts (See 

Polystichum 399) 
hardy sorts (See Dry- 
opteris 387) 

Aspidistra 65, 278 

Asplenium 386, 391 

hardy 387 

Aster bug 50 

Aster, China 2?5 

Aster (not China). . . 176 
Astilbe 

japonica 65, 176 

Lemoinei 176 

Thunbergii 177 

see also 216-217 

Attalea 67, 142 

Aubrietia 177 

Aucuba 67, 296 

Azalea 

after flowering. ... 69 

culture 68 

cuttings 70, 297 

Ghent 69 

grafting 297 

hardy species. .... 296 
hydrocyanic acid 

gas.: 49 

indica 68 

indoor culture. ... 68 
propagation.. .70, 297 
removing buds. ... 69 
speeding up tem- 
perature 68 

watering 69 

AzoUa -404 

Bamboo 415 

Bambusa 

(See Bamboo 415) 
Baptisia 177 



434 



PLANT CULTURE 



Page 
Begonia 

I'Jvansiana 177 

fibrous rooted 70 

fuchsioides 282 

Gloire de Lorraine 

group 71 

hardy 177 

Rex 70 

Rhizomatous 70 

semperflorens 282 

sowing seed. . .25, 282 
tuberous rooted. . . 70 
Winter flowering. . 73 

Bellis 282 

Berberis 298 

Bignonia 364 

Biota (For propaga- 
tion, see Juniperus 
318) 
Blackberry _ 

I)ropagation 24 

Bleehnum 392 

Bocconia 178 

Bougainvillea 365 

Boussingaultia 365 

Bouvardia 73 

Brachvcome 224 

Browallia 224 

(See also Streptosolen 
156) 

Browallia 75 

lirunfelsia 75 

Bryonia 367 

Bryonoi)sis 

(See Bryonia 367) 

Buddleia 298 

Butneria 

(See Calycanthus 299) 
Buxus 299 

Cabomba 404 

Cactus 76 

soil for 13 

Caladium 

culture 247 

Dashcen or Ele- 
phant's Ear. . . .247 

fancy leaved 247 

Her Majesty, c«/.248 
preparations for 

lifting. 249 

propagation 250 

starting tubers. . . . 247 

storing tubers 249 

Calanthe 77 

Calathea 77 

See Maranta 135 

Calceolaria 79 

Calendula 224 



Page 

Callicarpa 299 

Callirhoe 178 

Callistemon 80 

Callistephus 

(See China Aster, 
p. 225) 

Calluna 180 

(See Erica 310) 

Calycanthus .299 

jjroecox (See Chi- 
monanthus 301) 

Camellia 80 

Campanula 180 

Campsis 367 

Camptosorus 387 

Canna 

history 250 

outdoor culture. . .251 
raising from seed . 252 

storing 251 

Winter forcing. ... 80 

Cape Jasmine 

(See Gardenia 125) 

Cardiospermum 367 

Carica 81 

Caryopteris 300 

Caryota 143 

Cariudovica 81 

Carnation 83 

disbudding 86 

evolution 83 

feeding 86 

hydrocyanic acid 

gas 49 

lifting and plant- 
ing 84 

plantirig in field. . . 83 
planting in house.. 84 

l)ropagation 87 

benching 87 

cuttings 88 

house 87 

material for cut- 
tings 88 

sand 88 

treatment of cut- 
tings 88 

rust 50 

soil 84 

supports 86 

syringing 86 

temperature 86 

to follow Chrysan- 
themums 87 

varieties 83 

ventilation 87 

Catananche 182 



Page 

Cattleya 89 

plant showing air 
roots and pseudo- 
bulbs 140 

Celosia 225 

Centaurea 182 

Centradenia 89 

Centropogon 89 

Cephalotaxus 

(For propagation, 
see Juniperus, 318) 

Cerastium 182 

Cerasus 

(See Prunus 329) 
Ceratostigma 

(See Plumbago 211) 
Cephselis 

propagation 24 

Cercis 301 

Cereus 

(See Cactus 76) 

Ceroxylon 143 

Cestrum 91 

Chaenomeles 301 

Chaenc stoma 282 

Chamaebatia 183 

Chamserops 91, 142 

Cheilanthes. . . .3^3, 387 

Cheiranthus 183 

Chelidonium 183 

Chelone 

(See Pentstemon 208) 
Childsia 

(See Hidalgoa 372) 

Chimonanthus 301 

China Aster 225 

Chionanthus 301 

Chionodoxa....242,252 

Chorizema 91 

Chrj^santhemurn 
frutescens 
See Paris Daisies 145) 

Chrysanthemum .... 92 
hydrocyanic acid 

gas 49 

insects 96 

late flowering 

plants 94 

propagation 97 

selecting the bud. 94 

soil 93 

specimen plants. . . 96 

stock plants 97 

varieties 93 

ventilation 94 

Chrysalidocarpus... . 97 
Cibotium 392 



INDEX 



435 



Page 

Cineraria 98 

hydro-cyanic acid 

gas 49 

Cissus 367 

Cistus 301 

Citrus 303 

Clarkia 225 

Clematis 368 

Clematis 

Davidiana 184 

heraclccefolia 184 

recta 184 

Cleome 225 

Clerodendron 370 

Clerodendrcm 

greenhouse species 24 

hardy 303 

Clianthus 98 

Clivia 252 

Clitoria 370 

Cobaea 371 

Cocos 100 

Codiaeum 

greenhouse 100 

outdoor use 283 

Ccetogvne 99 

Coleus'. 283 

Colocasia 

(See Caladium 247) 

Convallaria 252 

Convolvulus 371 

Corchorus 

(See Kerria 318) 
Cordyline..l03, 278, 280 
(See Dracaena 111) 

Coreopsis 184 

Cornus 303 

Cortaderia 416 

Corypha 142 

Cosmos 225 

Cotoneaster 305 

Cotyledon 104,227 

Crassula 104 

Crataegus 305 

Crinum 253 

Crocus 242,253 

Croton 

(See Codiaeum 100) 

culture 100 

propagation 100 

ringing 101 

Cryptomeria 305 

Cuphea 284 

Cupressus 

(For propagation 
see Juniperus 318) 

Curculigo 105 

Cycas 105 



Page 

Cyclamen 106 

Cyclophorus 399 

Cydonia 307 

Cyperus 417 

Cypripedium 108 

Cyrtomium 383,392 

Cystopteris 387 

Cytisus 108 

Dabfficia 308 

Dactylis 417 

Dahlia...... 253 

classification 254 

culture 256 

habitat 253 

propagation 256 

storage 257 

Daisy, Paris 145 

Dalchampia 108 

Daphne 

Blagayana 308 

Cneorutn 308 

Laureola 308 

Mezereum 308 

odora 109,308 

pontica 308 

Daphne 109 

Date 147 

Davallia . .392 

(See also Drynaria 394) 

Delphinium 184 

Dendrobium 109 

Dennstaedtia 387 

Desmodium 109 

(See Lespedeza 199) 

gyrans 137 

Deutzia 308 

Dianthus 184 

Caryophyllus (See 
Carnation 83) 

Dicentra 185 

Dichorisandra 109 

Dichroa. 109 

Dicksonia 383, 393 

hardy (See Denn- 
staedtia 387) 

Dictmanus 185 

Dieffenbachia 110 

Diervilla 309 

Digitalis 186 

Dimorphotheca 227 

Dionaea 110 

Dizygotheca 
(See Aralia 59) 

Dodecatheon 186 

Dolicos japonicus 

(See Pueraria 377) 
Doronicum 186 



Page 
Dracaena 

(See also Cordy- 
line 111) 

Drosera 113 

Drynaria 394,397 

Dryopteris 387 

Duchesnea 186 

Dusty Miller 282 

Echeveria 

(See Cotyledon 227) 
Echinacea 188 

(See Rudbeckia 212) 

Eichhornia 404 

Elaegnus 310 

Elaeodendron 

(See Aralia 59) 

Elymus 417 

Enkianthus 

layers of 33 

EpiphyUum 113 

Eranthemum 114 

Eranthis 257 

Eremurus 257 

Erianthus 419 

Erica 310 

Erica 115 

soil for 13 

Erodium 188 

Erpetion 

(See Viola 219) 

Erythrina 115 

Erythronium 257 

Eschscholtzia 227 

Eucharis 258 

Eulalia 419 

Euonymus 310 

scale 50 

Eupatorium 117 

Euphorbia 117 

Eurya 120 

Euterpe 142 

Exacum 120 

Exochorda 311 

Farfugium 

(See Ligularia 200) 

Ferula 188 

Fatsia 

(See Aralia 59) 

Fatsia 24, 120 

Felicia 121 

Festuca 419 

Ficus 121,284 

Filipendula 

(See Spiraea 217) 

Fittonia 124 

Forsythia 311 

layers 33 



436 



PLANT CULTURE 



Page 
Fragaria 

(See Duchesnea 186) 
Franciscca 

(See Brunfelsia 75) 

Freesia 258 

Fritillaria 259 

Fuchsia 124 

Funkia 188 

Furcraea 125 

Gaillardia 189 

Galanthus 259 

Galax 189 

Galtonia 260 

Gardenia 125 

Gazania 228 

Genista 108 

Gentiana 189 

Geranium 189 

(For so-called Ge- 
raniums of the 
florist see Pelar- 
gonium 288) 

Gerbera 126 

Gillenia 189 

Gladiolus 

crossing technique 41 

digging 262 

fertilizer 260 

planting 262 

propagation 262 

soil 260 

value 260 

Gloriosa 262 

Gloxinia 127 

sowing seeds 25 

Goniophlebium 397 

Glycine 

propagation 33 

Godetia 228 

Goodyera 190 

Gooseberry Mildew.. 45 

Gordonia 312 

layering 33 

Grevillea 129 

Gynerium 

(See Cortaderia 416) 
Gypsophila 190 

Halesia 312 

Hamelia 129 

Heather 

(See Erica 115, 
Calluma 180) 
Heather, White Irish 308 

Hedera 371 

Hedychium 130 

Helianthus 190 

Helichrysum 228 

Heliotropium 284 



Page 

Hclleborus 190 

Hemcrocallis 191 

Hepatica 191 

Heuchera 191 

Hibiscus 

greenhouse sorts. . 130 
hardy species 312 

Hidalgoa 372 

Hippeastrum 263 

Holboellia 

(See Stauntonia 380) 

Hollyhock 

(See Althea 169) 
rust 50 

Hosta 

(See Funkia 188) 

Howea 

(See Kentia 133) 

Hoya 373 

Humulus 373 

Hunneman»nia 228 

Hyacinth 242, 264 

forcing Roman 243 

Hydrangea 

arboresccns 313 

French hybrids. . . 130 
greenhouse culture 130 

hardy sorts 313 

Hortensis 132, 313 

opuloides 130, 313 

Otaksa 313 

paniculata 313 

quercifoUa 315 

Hydrocleis 

(See Limnocharis 405) 

Hypericum 315 

Iberis 193 

Ilex, 315 

Imantophvllum 
(See Ciivia 252) 

Impatiens 284 

Inga 132 

Ipomcea 373 

Iresine 285 

Iris 

bearded 193 

bulbous 264 

dwarf 196 

English 264 

German 193 

Japanese, cut 198 

Madam Chereau, 

cut 194 

'pallida dalmatica, 

cut 195 

propagation 196 

reticulatn 265 

species 195 



Page 

Isotoma 286 

Itea 317 

Ixora 133 

Jacobinia 133 

Jasmine 133 

Jasmine, Cape 

(See Gardenia 125) 

hardy 317 

Jasjminiinn 133 

Jerusalem Cherry. . .000 
Juniperus 318 

Kadsura 375 

Kalmia 318 

Kentia 133, 142 

K2rria 318 

Kniphofia 196 

Kochia 229 

Koelreuteria 320 

Koeniga 

(See Alyssum 224) 

Laburnum 320 

Lachenalia 265 

Lselia 133 

Lagerstroemia 320 

Lantana 287 

Lapageria 375 

Lastrea 278 

Latania 134, 142 

Lathy rus 

perennial 375 

(See Sweet Peas 

157, 238) 

Laurus 321 

Leontopodium 199 

Lespedeza 199 

Leucojum 265 

Lewisia 199 

Libonia 

(See Jacobinia 133) 

Licuala 142 

Ligularia 200 

(See Farfugium 2 78) 
Ligustrum 321 

layers 33 

Lilac 

(See Syringa 334) 

Mildew 50 

Lilium 

greenhouse sorts. .266 

hardy sorts 269 

preparing bulbs 
for potting 268 

speciosuni 268 

Lily 

(See Lilium 266) 
Lily of the Valley . . 252 
Limnocharis 405 



INDEX 



437 



Page 

Lindelofia _ . .200 

Linnaea 200 

Linum 

(See Rein ward tia 151) 

grandiflorum 229 

perenne 229 

Lippia 134 

Livistona 134, 142 

Lobelia 

Erinus 229 

littoralis 

(SeePratia211) 

perennial sorts.. . .201 
Lomaria 

(See Blechnum 392) 
Lonicera 

climbing sorts. . . .375 

shrubs 321 

Lopezia 134 

Lupinus 201 

Lychnis 

(See Agrostemma 
168) 

propagation 24 

Lygodium 387 

Lysimachia. . . .201, 376 
Lythrum 203 

Magnolia 323 

layers 33 

Mahernia 134 

Malvaviscus 135 

Manettia.. 376 

propagation 24 

Maple 

flowering 52 

Japanese 293 

Maranta 135 

(See Calathea 77) 
Marguerite 

(See Paris Daisy 145) 
Marguerite Leaf 

Miner 50 

Matthiola 229 

Maurandia 280 

Medinilla 135 

Menyanthes 203 

Mertensia 203 

Mesembryanthemum 

231, 280 

Metrosideros 135 

Microlepia 394 

Mingonette 234 

Mimosa 135 

Mimulus 203 

Mirabilis 231 

Miscanthus 

(See Eulalia 419) 
Monarda 203 



Page 

Monstera 137 

Moonflower 

(See Ipomcea 373) 

Morina 204 

Musa 137, 287 

Muscari 270 

Mussaenda 137 

Mj^osotis 204 

Myriophyllum 405 

Myrsiphyllum 

(See Asparagus and 
Smilax 63) 

Narcissus 270 

classification 270 

forcing 243 

Paper White 243 

Nasturtium 

(See Tropaeolum, 
241) 

Nelumbium 405 

from seed 407 

insect enemies. . . .407 
starting tubers. . . . 407 

Nepenthes 24, 137 

(See Ground Ivy 280) 

Nephrolepis 394 

Nerine 

(See Amaryllis 244) 

Nerium 139 

Nertera 139 

Neviusia 325 

Nicotiana 231 

Nierembergia 231 

Nigella 232 

Niphobolus 278,399 

Nymphsea 407 

hardy so'-ts 409 

hardy sorts from 

seed 412 

night blooming 

section 409 

soil 409 

starting tubers. . . .411 
Summer quarters 

for 411 

tender sorts 409 

Wintering tender. 411 

Ochna 139 

Odontonema 139 

Odontoglossum 139 

CEnothera 204 

Oleander 139 

Olea 

(See Osmanthus 325) 

Oncidium 141 

Onoclea 387 



Page 

Ononis 204 

Onosma 205 

Onychium 383, 396 

Ophiopogon 205 

Oplismenus 

(See Panicum 419) 
Opuntia 

(See Cactus 76) 

Orchids 141 

potting material 

for 141 

gernera 

Calanthe 77 

Cattleya 89, 140 

Coelogyne 99 

Cypripedium 108 

Dendrobium 109 

Goodyera 190 

Laelia 133 

Odontoglossum . . . 139 

Oncidium 141 

Phalaenopsis 147 

Vanda 161 

Orobus 205 

Osmanthus 325 

Osmunda 388 

Othonna 288 

Ouvirandra 

(See Aponogeton 403) 
Oxalis 

Bowiei 271 

cerrrna 271 

crydentelles 288 

culture indoors.. . .271 
culture out of 

doors 288 

dendroides 137 

hirta 271, 288 

rubricaulis 271 

sensitiva 137 

versicolor 271 

Pachysandra 205 

Psederia 376 

Paeonia 

(See PsBony) 

Palms 141 

Attalea 67 

Areca 97 

Arenga 142 

Caryota 143 

Chamaerops 142 

Chrysalidocarpus.. 97 

Ceroxylon 143 

Cocos 100 

Corypha 14^ 

Euterpe 142 

Howea 133 

Kentia 133 



438 



PLANT CULTURE 



Palms — Continued Page 

Latania 134, 142 

Licuala 143 

Livistona.. .. 134, 142 

Phoenix 142, 147 

Rhapis 142 

Seafarthia 142 

Stevensonia 143 

Thrinax 142 

Pandanus.143, 280, 288 

Panicum 419 

Pansy. . 232 

growing in frames. 232 

sowing seed 232 

Papaver 

nudicaule 207 

orientale 207 

Rhceas 233 

somniferum 233 

Papyrus 419 

Paris Daisy 145 

Parthenocissus 363 

Passiflora 377 

PauUinia 145 

Paulo wnia 24,327 

Pa via 

(See iEsculus 294) 

Peach leaf curl 45 

Pelargonium 288 

Pennisetum 421 

Pentas 290 

Pentstemon 208 

Peony 205 

albiflora 207 

anomala 207 

arietina 207 

bud rot 50 

moutan 326 

grafting 30 

officinalis 207 

paradoxa 207 

peregrina 207 

shrubby 326 

tenui folia 207 

Whitmanniana. . . . 207 

Peperomia 146 

Pereskia 146 

(See also under 
Epiphyllum 113) 

Peristrophe 290 

Petrea 377 

Petunia 233 

Phalaenopsis 147 

Philadelphus 327 

Phlebodium 397 

Phlox 

annual 234 

Drummondi 234 

perennial sorts. . . . 208 
Ph®nix 142, 147 



Page 

Phormium 147 

Phygelius 210 

Phyllagathis 147 

Phyllanthus 148 

Phyllostachys 

(See Bamboo 415) 

Phyllotaenium 163 

Phymatodes 397 

Physalis 210 

Piqueria 

(See Stevia 155) 
Pitcher Plants 

(See Sarraccnia 153 
and Nepenthes 138) 

Platycerium 396 

Platycodon 210 

Plumeria 148 

Plumbago 

capensis 148 

'LarpenfCB 211 

zeylanica. 148 

Poinsettia 117 

cut 119 

Polianthes 271 

Polypodium... .388, 396 
glaucuvi var. Mand- 

aianum, cut 398 

Polyscias 

(See Aralia 59) 
Polystichum... .386, 399 

Portulaca 234 

Potato 

blight 50 

bug 51 

scab 46 

Potentilla 327 

Pratia 211 

Primrose 

(See Primula 149) 

pollinating 150 

Primula 

denticulate 211 

elatior 211 

florihunda 150 

Forbesli 149 

hybrida 150 

Kewensis 150 

Malacoides 149 

obconica 149 

pollinating flowersl50 

Sieboldii 211 

sikkiTnensis 211 

sinensis 149 

veris 211 

vulgaris 211 

Prunus 327 

Psedera 

(See Ampelopsis 363) 



Page 

Ptelea 329 

Pteris 278,383,399 

Pueraria 377 

propagation 33 

Thunbergiana 378 

Punica 329 

Puschkinia 242 

Pyrostegia 

(See Bignonia 364) 

Pyrus 330 

cydonia (See Cy- 
donia 307) 

Quisqualis 379 

Ramondia 212 

Ranunculus 271 

greenhouse sorts. .273 

outdoor 273 

propagation 273 

varieties 271 

Raphiolepis 330 

Raspberry 

can© borer 51 

propagation. .. .24, 32 

Reinwatdtia 151 

Reseda 234 

RetinispOra 

(For propagation, 
see JUniperus 318) 

Rhapis 142 

Rheum 212 

Rhipsalis. . . . •. 151 

Rhododendron 330 

grafting 29 

lace wing fly 50 

soil for 13 

Rhodotypofj 331 

Rhus. 331 

Rhyncho spermum 
(See Trachelosper- 
mum 382) 
Richardia 
(See Zantedeschia 277) 

Ricinus 236 

Robinia 333 

Rochea 

(See Crassula 104) 

Rohdea 278 

Rose 

baby Ramblers. . .351 

black spot 45 

climbers 351 

diseases 45 

garden culture 

cutting 356 

planting time. . . 353 
preparation of 

soil 353 

pruning 355 



INDEX 



430 



Page 
Roses — Continued 
g'-eenhouse cul- 
ture 344,347 

hybrid perpetu- 

als 341,343 

forcing 343 

varieties 343 

hybrid Teas.. 341, 343 
culture under 

glass 347 

varieties for gar- 
den. 347 

varieties for 

greenhouse . . . 344 
hydrocyanic acid 

gas, use of 40 

insects . • • 51 

penzance hybrids.. 351 

pernetiana 350 

polyantha 351 

propagation 356 

cuttings. . .356, 357 

grafting 359 

seeds 359 

pruning 355 

ramblers 351 

varieties 353 

rugosa hybrids. . . . 349 

teas 349 

varieties 349 

wichuraiana hy- 
brids. . 350 

yellow briars 350 

Rudbeckia 212 

Ruellia 151 

(See Stephanophy- 
sum 155) 
Russelia 152,278 

Saccharum 421 

Saintpaulia 153 

Salpiglossis 236 

Salvia.... 214 

Sanguinaria 214 

Sanchezia 290 

Sansevieria 153 

Sandersonia 273 

Santolina 290 

Saponaria 214 

Sarracenia 153, 214 

Saxifraga 214,290 

Scabiosa 236 

Schizanthus 236 

Schrankia 

(See under Mimosa 
135) 

Schubertia 379 

Scilla 242,273 



Page 

Scutellaria 215 

Seaforthia 142 

Sedum 215 

Selaginella 401 

cut 400 

Senecio 

candidissima 283 

maritima 283 

mikanioides 291 

Senecio 379 

Selenicereus 

(See Cactus 76) 

Sempervivum 216 

Sensitive Plants 
(See Mimosa 135) 

Shepherdia 333 

Silene 216 

Skimmia 153 

Smilax 

(See Asparagus 63) 
Snapdragon 

(See Antirrhinum 
172) 

anthracnose 51 

Solanum 

climbing sorts. . . .379 

greenhouse sorts. . 155 

Sphserogyne 

(See Tococa 160) 
Spigelia 216 

Spiraea 333 

Spiraea, Florists' 
(See Astilbe 65) 

arunus 216 

astilhoides 217 

palmata 217 

Sprekelia 
. (See Amaryllis 244) 

Stachys 217 

Staphylea 334 

Statice... 217 

Stauntonia 380 

Stephanophysum.. . .155 

Stephanotis 380 

Stevensonia 143 

Stevia 155 

Stigmaphyllon 380 

Stipa 422 

Stokesia 217 

Streptocarpus 156 

Strelitzia 156 

Streptosolen 156 

StrobUanthes. . . 157, 291 

Styrax 334 

Swainsona 157 



Page 
S"weet Peas 

Fall sowing 239 

indoor culture. . . .157 
outdoor culture. . .238 
preparation of soil. 238 
sowing seed in pots 

239 

staking 239 

Summer treatment 

239 

Symphoricarpos 334 

Syringa 334 

layers 33 

Tacsonia 380 

Tagetes 239 

Tamarix 336 

Tanacetum 218 

Taxus 

(For propagation 
see Juniperus 318) 
Tecoma 

(See Campsis 367) 

Tecophilaea 242, 273 

Telanthera 

(See Alternanthera 
280) 

Tetranema 159 

Thrinax 142 

Thuja 

(For propagation 
see Juniperus 318) 

Thunbergia 382 

Thymus 218 

Thyrsacanthus 
(See Odontonema 
139) 

Tiarella 218 

Tigridia 274 

Tinnea 160 

Tococa 160 

Tomato bloom, hy- 
bridizing 40 

Torenia 241,280 

Toxicophlaea 

(See Acocanthera 55) 
Trachelospermum. . .382 

Tradescantia 218 

Trichosporum 160 

Tricyrtis 274 

Trillium 274 

Triteleia 242 

Tritoma 

(See Kniphofia 196) 

Tritonia 274 

Tropseolum 241 

Tuberose 271 

Tulip 242,275 



440 



PLANT CULTURE 



Page 
Tulip — Continued 

Due Von Thol . . . 

243, 275 
/orcing 243 

out-door culture . . 242 
Ulniaria 

(See Spiraea 217) 

Uniola 422 

Ulex 336 

Valloradia 

(See Plumbago 211) 

Vallota 275 

Vanda 161 

Verbascum 218 

Verbena 241 

Veronica 219 

Viburnum 336 

Victoria 414 



Page 
Vinca 

major 292 

minor 219 

rosea 292 

Viola 

blanda 211 

cornuta 219 

cucullata 211 

hederacea 219 

lutea.. 219 

odorata (Greenhouse 
Violet 161) 

Pansy 232 

papilionacea 211 

pedata 211 

pubescens 211 

rotundifolia 211 

tricolor (Pansy) . . . 232 
Tufted Pansy 219 



Page 

Violet 161 

indoor culture. . . .161 

leaf spot 51 

outdoor bedding 

sorts 219 

propagation 162 

saw-fly 51 

Vitex 338 

Vitis heterophylla 

(See Ampelopsis 363) 

Wistaria 382 

Woodwardia 386 

Weigela 

(See Diervilla 309) 

Xanthoceras 338 

propagation 24 

Xanthosoma 163 

Yucca 340 

Zantedeschia 277 

Zephyranthes 277 

Zinnia 241 

Zizania 422 



INDEX 



441 



Index 



Page 

Annuals 222 

sowing 222 

time to sow 222 

transplanting 223 

Ammoniacal Copper 

Carbonate 45 

Ants 50 

Aphids 47,48, 50 

Arsenate of Lead. ... 48 

Bedding Plants 278 

Bonemeal .__13 

Bordeaux Mixture... 43 

Borers 47 

Caustic potash. ... 47 
Kerosene emulsion 47 
On herbaceous 

plants 50 

Tarred paper 47 

Wire protectors. . 47 
Botanical — Common 
Names, List of. . . .429 

Budding 30 

Bud Moth 50 

Bulbs. 242 

forcing 243 

outdoor culture . . .242 
Use of hydrocyanic 
acid gas 49 

Carbolic Acid Insect- 
icide 48 

Carbon bisulphide.... 60 

Charcoal 13 

Common — Botanical 

Names, List of.. . .424 
Contact insecticides. 47 

Corms 242 

Corrosive sublimate. 46 

Crossing plants 39 

Currant worm 48 

Cuttings 23 

dormant wood. ... 23 

leaf 23 

of shrubs 23 

of perennials 23 

temperatures for... 23 
Cut worms 48 



Page 

Damping ofT 49 

Diseases 43 

list of 50 

Division of plants. . 24 
Drainage 17 

Emasculation 40 

Emulsions 48 

Ferns 383 

gathering spores . . 385 

hardy 386 

insect enemies .... 386 
soil for sowing 

spores 385 

sowing spores 385 

use of hydrocyanic 

acid gas 49 

viviparous sorts. . .385 

Fish-Oil soap 47 

Flea beetles 50 

Formalin 46 

Fruit trees, dwarf. . 27 

Flower, Bean 40 

Calendula (illus.).. 40 

Carnation 42 

China Aster 39 

Chrysanthemum... 39 

Corn 39 

Cucumber 42 

Daisy-like. 39 

(illus.) 40 

Gladiolus 42 

(iUus.) 41 

Lettuce 39 

Orchid 39 

Pea 40 

(iUus.) 38 

Perfect 39 

Petunia 42 

Poppy 39 

Pumpkin 42 

Rose 39 

Squash 42 

(illus.) 40 

Tomato 40 

Zinnia 39 

Fungicides 43 



Page 

Grafting 26 

cleft 28 

crown 29 

inarching 29 

root 30 

tongue 29 

veneer 29 

wax 28 

whip 29 

Grain smut 46 

Grasses 415 

Greenhouse plants... 62 

Hellebore, insecti- 
cide 48 

Hybridization 39 

Hydrocyanic acid 

gas 49 

Use for Azalea ... 49 

Bulbs 49 

Carnations 49 

Chrysanthe- 
mums 49 

Cinerarias 49 

Ferns 49 

Roses 49 

Insects 46 

list of 50 

Kerosene emulsion . . 48 

Layering 31 

Chinese 32 

continuous 32 

mound 32 

simple 31 

tip 32 

Leaf cuttings 23 

Leaf spot 43,45, 50 

Lime and sulphur. . . 45 
Lime, slaked for in- 
sects 48 

Maggots 48, 50 

Manures 13 

Mealybug 48, 60 

Moles 60 

Mildew 45 

Millipedes 60 

Mulching 21 



44? 



PLANT CULTURE 



Page 

Names 

botanical 34 

botanical — com- 
mon, list of 429 

common names, 

use of 34 

common — bo- 
tanical, list of.. .424 

scientific 34 

species names, list 

of 36 

what they mean. . 34 

why used 34 

Nematodes 50 

Nicotine aa insecti- 
cide 47 

Paris Green 48 

Perennials 165 

Pistils 39 

Plant lice 
(See Aphids) 

Poison bait 48 

Poisonous insecti- 
cides 48 

Potassium sulphide. 45 

Potting Plants 13 

Pots, clean 17 



Page 

Propagation 

budding 30 

cuttings 23 

division 24 

grafting 26 

layering 31 

seeds 24 

Pyrethrum — insec- 
ticide 48 

Red spider 51 

Root insects 47 

Root lice 51 

Rust 43, 45 

Scale insects 45, 48 

Scientific names 34 

Seeds, propagation 

by 24 

saving 42, 150 

sowing annuals. . .223 

sowing fine 25 

Shrubs 293 

Slips 

(See cuttings 23) 

Slugs 48, 51 

Soap as insecticide. 47 
for scale 47 



Page 

Soils, potting 13 

ridding soil of 

weeds 24 

sterilizing with 

formalin 46 

Sowbug 51 

Sprays 43 

Stamens 39 

Sulphur as fungicide. 45 

Temperatures re- 
quired by plants. .423 

Thrips .•••48. 50 

Tobacco aa insecti- 
cide 47 

dust 47 

extract 47 

Tuber 242 

Tuberoua roots 242 

Vines 360 

Watering 20 

Water Plants 402 

labels for 402 

Waterside Plants 402 

Weevils 60 

White fly 49 

White Grubs 50 

Window Box Plant8.278 




